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Old 03-13-2019, 08:08 PM
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Suspension lift - need adj control arms, long arms?

97 TJ 2.5” OME lift, 1.25” BL, 1” MML, still have some vibes after removing Tcase drop. I don’t want a T case drop so I am planning a SYE with adj control arms. I plan to bite the bullet and get all 8 (ouch).

So I am looking at Savvy, Currie, MetalCloak. And then I start thinking if I am spending that much should I consider a long arm kit? Most seem to be for 4”-6”. I have 3.5” of lift if you add it all up, but not sure if that can count.

Need someone with more experience to steer me into the correct purchase as I don’t want to do this twice.

I would not be doing any HD rock crawling but I tend to want things bomb proof.

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Old 03-13-2019, 08:32 PM   #2
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Short arms are perfect for your rig. I’m a fan of Savvy as they are adjustable without removal, which you will appreciate when dialing your pinion angle. Another option is having your own arms built locally. Purchase the DOM, threaded rod inserts, and Johnny Joints then pay a dude locally to cut the DOM and weld in the rod inserts.
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Old 03-13-2019, 09:01 PM   #3
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You definitely do not need long arms, most no one does. Your lift only matters from the suspension lift. The body lift is not added to it for a total, when concerned with the suspension components. I can't really tell you what arms you need or want, but I know what you don't need or want, and long arms are one of them.
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Old 03-13-2019, 09:03 PM   #4
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X2 to the above, Currie is another great choice. Avoid a long arm suspension, they don't work nearly as well as the ads claim. I installed a long arm suspension onto my previous TJ and all it did well was get its long arms hung up on trail obstacles like rocks. I'm much happier with my present 4" Currie short arm suspension.

Currie's and Savvy's suspension systems are essentially the same other than the Savvy control arms don't need to be removed to readjust their lengths. Both use the superb Johnny Joints from Currie.
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Old 03-13-2019, 10:34 PM   #5
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All long arms are for is Florida trail riding. All there is done there is mud holes and sand. In the mountains you will be hung up all the time. When I was younger we brought our big rigs up from FL to TN to go on the trails. The locals laughed when we got to the trail. We didn’t understand why until we spent more time pulling each other off rocks from being hung up on our long arms.
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Old 03-13-2019, 11:28 PM   #6
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With only 2.5" of suspension lift, you can very likely get by with only rear uppers to make the small pinion adjustment needed for the sye&DC shaft.
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Old 03-14-2019, 09:50 AM
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Ok so forget long arm, glad I asked.

As for just getting rear control arms to go with the SYE. It seems like some people recommend getting the lowers to adjust the pinion angle and others recommend getting the uppers?

I thought the lowers were for dialing in the pinion angle and the uppers are for re-centering the wheel in the wheel opening?

I know if I buy all 8 there is a small savings, but I may be able sneak a SYE + 2 control arms by the wife without having to get an ear full. If I go that route, I want to be sure I get the correct ones (I.e. upper or lowers)
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Old 03-14-2019, 09:52 AM
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One other question, when would rear shock bottom bracket relocators come into play? Thinking that may play a factor in uppers vs lowers CAs
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Old 03-14-2019, 09:56 AM   #9
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you can do uppers or lowers. one set of arms will rotate the axle, the other will position it.

most, myself included, just grind away a small bit of the lower spring pad if the shock makes contact during cycling. that all depends on how much you need to rotate the axle.

you could just add a fender washer or two to the TC skid plate to eliminate the vibes and leave the rest as is
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Old 03-14-2019, 01:52 PM   #10
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Before you make any more changes, I would confirm that the vibration is not coming from a bad ujoint.
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Old 03-14-2019, 01:57 PM   #11
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Ok so forget long arm, glad I asked.

As for just getting rear control arms to go with the SYE. It seems like some people recommend getting the lowers to adjust the pinion angle and others recommend getting the uppers?
Either will do it but if you can't afford both uppers and lowers, adjustable uppers are the way to go for a very good reason.

Suspension lifts pull the axles together shortening the wheelbase. Raising the rear axle's pinion angle by shortening the lower arm would further shorten the already shorter wheelbase. Raising the pinon angle by extending the upper control arm will move the axle back toward where it was before the suspension lift was installed.
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Old 03-14-2019, 02:29 PM   #12
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Metalcloak stuff is absolutely incredible. You seem to have a good idea of the better companies out there. I'm sure Savvy and Currie are great as well. If you care at all for looks, that Metalcloak gold is absolutely beautiful and man does it last!
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Old 03-14-2019, 03:54 PM   #13
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If you care at all for looks, that Metalcloak gold is absolutely beautiful and man does it last!
to each their own, the first thing i did to the track bars i've purchased from them was paint them flat black
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Old 03-14-2019, 04:18 PM   #14
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to each their own, the first thing i did to the track bars i've purchased from them was paint them flat black
X2. The last thing my Jeep needs are fancy-looking gold/red/lime-green/etc. colored suspension components.
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Old 03-15-2019, 06:41 AM
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The reason provided for doing upper CAs makes perfect sense, thanks for the background info on that.

Checking u-joints (drive shaft I assume) also makes sense. Besides pulling each on out, any tricks to check them? The u joints on the axle shafts are new.
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Old 03-28-2019, 04:13 PM   #16
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X2. The last thing my Jeep needs are fancy-looking gold/red/lime-green/etc. colored suspension components.
yeah i don't like the colored suspension, but the metalcloak gold is not like a spray on gold you might see. it's quite subtle and looks great, imo
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Old 10-27-2019, 10:32 AM
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Update - reviving and old thread.

Rear
I found a set of MC adj CAs for the rear. So that coupled with an SYE from Adams adapters + JCR angled track bar mount/adj track bar should finish off my rear.

Front
I have a set of what I think to be Rubicon Express Super-Flex Front Upper Adjustable Control Arms that need new bushings. I am running BFG 285/70s (33”) and as far as I can tell no real steering issues. I did a driveway style alignment and she tracks straight.

So my question is, spending some coin to get the rear corrected makes sense to me to eliminate 100% of the vibes and reduce the strain on components. But the front - is there any real benefit of doing adj CA’s? Any issue with doing just the Front uppers?
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Old 10-27-2019, 12:54 PM   #18
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If it was my rig I'd go with other brands of control arms than MC or Rubicon Express, especially with RE's well known bushing issue (as in they don't hold up). The Adams SYE and JCR angled track bar mount with an adjustable length track bar would be fine.

Just go with adjustable length control arms with at least one end having a flex-joint like a Currie Johnny Joint. Avoid any control arms with rubber, polyurethane, or Duroflex bushings in both ends. A flex-joint in at least one end of the control arm is required to eliminate the possibility of damaging/ripping off of the control arm mount if you do trails uneven enough to completely flex the suspension.
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Old 10-28-2019, 11:24 AM   #19
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Just go with adjustable length control arms with at least one end having a flex-joint like a Currie Johnny Joint. Avoid any control arms with rubber, polyurethane, or Duroflex bushings in both ends. A flex-joint in at least one end of the control arm is required to eliminate the possibility of damaging/ripping off of the control arm mount if you do trails uneven enough to completely flex the suspension.

Is the duroflex joint not considered a flex joint any more?
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Old 10-28-2019, 02:13 PM   #20
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Just go with adjustable length control arms with at least one end having a flex-joint like a Currie Johnny Joint. Avoid any control arms with rubber, polyurethane, or Duroflex bushings in both ends. A flex-joint in at least one end of the control arm is required to eliminate the possibility of damaging/ripping off of the control arm mount if you do trails uneven enough to completely flex the suspension.

Is the duroflex joint not considered a flex joint any more?
It depends on how pedantic we want to be with the term joint. The Duroflex bushing is a high misalignment bushing that also has characteristics of a joint due to it not being bonded to an outer shell. There is a lot to unpack there, but you know as well as I do that the DF bushing is unlikely to be a reason that a control arm mount is going to tear off. 🙂

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