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Old 01-16-2020, 01:40 PM
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Question Tie Rod System Replacement

Hello,
I want to replace my tie rod system with a heavy duty one and I was looking at the currie system, however the ones I saw said that they are for jeeps with a lift. I don't know if my jeep has a lift or not, I bought it used, but a couple mechanics said it looks stock to them. Is there a heavy duty tie rod system suitable for the 2001 TJ Sport model?

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Old 01-16-2020, 01:54 PM   #2
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Research the ZJ swap. Cheap and plenty strong for a stock vehicle.

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Old 01-16-2020, 01:57 PM   #3
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yep, just swap out the OEM tie rod for a V8 ZJ tie rod. its a direct replacement and adds some serious beef to the weakest link in the TJ steering. its a shame they didnt do this from the factory as the hollow tube TJ tie rod is a joke when you go over 31" tires.

https://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/zjtie/tierod-1.htm

as to the lift height, when TJ's rolled off the factory floor they had 12" front coils and 8" rear coils with the weight of the jeep on the tires. measure your coils and see how long they are, anything over the OEM specs is your lift height
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Old 01-17-2020, 01:22 AM
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yeah that zj system looks like a much more economical option.
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Old 01-17-2020, 08:24 AM   #5
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This should help


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Old 01-17-2020, 01:43 PM   #6
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Pick up some Spicer/OEM tie rod ends when you do the ZJ swap. Moog seems to have dropped in quality the past few years.
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Old 01-18-2020, 11:25 AM
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well then what about the steering damper? moog or not moog
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Old 01-18-2020, 12:02 PM   #8
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Old 01-18-2020, 01:59 PM
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We use to use monroe for shocks back in the day when I was in auto class in high school. Should I use that brand for shocks as well as the damper? I keep reading about people liking Ranchero for that.
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Old 01-18-2020, 02:36 PM   #10
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Has anyone looked at or installed the Steinjager kit on ebay or one like it? Looks pretty solid.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Steinjager-...53.m1438.l2649
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Old 01-18-2020, 02:52 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by nicodemushthorne View Post
We use to use monroe for shocks back in the day when I was in auto class in high school. Should I use that brand for shocks as well as the damper? I keep reading about people liking Ranchero for that.
The steering damper isn't fussy, pretty much any hydraulic steering damper like from Monroe, Rancho, etc. will be fine. Personally I'm running the Rancho RS5000 but the Monroe should be just as good. Realize you'll need a new tapered mounting stud to replace the one that is permanently a part of the old steering damper you'll be removing. Rancho's kit includes it and I've heard rumors the Monroe does too.
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Old 01-18-2020, 04:10 PM
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it looks slightly different but there is a bolt like that in the monroe picture.
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Old 01-18-2020, 04:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicodemushthorne View Post
Hello,
I want to replace my tie rod system with a heavy duty one and I was looking at the currie system, however the ones I saw said that they are for jeeps with a lift. I don't know if my jeep has a lift or not, I bought it used, but a couple mechanics said it looks stock to them. Is there a heavy duty tie rod system suitable for the 2001 TJ Sport model?
OP,
My TJ sits on a 3" suspension lift. When I pretzeled my aftermarket (Steinjager) TR last year, I replaced it with a Rusty's Off Road HD TR. It is much beefier than the pretzel it replaced, and came with the TREs for about the same coin as replacing the Steinjager and TREs (separate purchase).

Since you specified a system, Rusty's happens to also offer one: https://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys...onversion.html
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Old 01-18-2020, 04:29 PM   #14
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Yep.
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Old 01-18-2020, 04:47 PM   #15
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Jerry,
I guess I'll find out.
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Old 01-19-2020, 10:32 AM
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ok thanks guys. I'm going to do the zj change with spicer ends and the monroe damper. Whats the final word on shock brand?
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Old 01-19-2020, 12:19 PM   #17
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Whats the final word on shock brand?
The damper brand is no big deal, Monroe or the Rancho RS5000 are both fine. Just avoid gas-charged models as most will always be pushing to expand which can cause a drift to the left if you're not paying attention.
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Old 01-19-2020, 02:14 PM
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I mean for the wheels
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Old 01-19-2020, 05:04 PM   #19
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I mean for the wheels
You can't buy suspension shocks until you know your suspension height. Stock spring heights are 12" in the front and 8" in the rear. Measure yours and see what you have. It'd be hard to beat the Rancho RS5000x shocks for a great street ride and offroad control.
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Old 01-19-2020, 05:19 PM
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cool those are what I was looking at. thanks.
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Old 01-19-2020, 05:21 PM
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I found old paperwork in the glove compartment that shows the jeep I have has been registered in both new york state and california and I think most of the stuff on it is original except for some KJ components that some moron put on it.
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Old 01-21-2020, 08:39 PM   #22
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My plan is to install the ZJ V8 steering parts when I need to replace any of the OEM steering parts on my LJ that way anytime I need a replacement parts. I can get them at any parts store, not have to order and wait for delivery. I'm planning on that but keep having to do other things lately.
I've been in a situation where I was waiting for replacement parts on my XJ after going with after market HD steering linkage. I bent it off-roading and had to sleeve it with my Hi-Lift handle after bending back. If I was using that I could have bought it in Tellico and been back on road for trip home. (Not possible for my XJ's lift though)
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Old 01-22-2020, 12:43 AM
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that sounds more universal for sure
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Old 01-22-2020, 11:38 AM   #24
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Has anyone looked at or installed the Steinjager kit on ebay or one like it? Looks pretty solid.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Steinjager-...53.m1438.l2649
It will bump steer like crazy. It is important to maintain the inverted Y geometry of the factory system and make sure your drag link is parallel with your track bar. Currie Correctlinc is the only kit that maintains the factory geometry and beefs up the components.

ZJ swap keeps the factory geometry and strengthens the weakest link in the system, the stupid hollow tie rod. The Currie system also strengthens the drag link but more importantly it corrects the tie rod end angles so they have better range of motion and last longer.

Think of the ZJ swap as better and Currie as best. Don't even think about the other kits. They may be stronger overall but the geometry sucks and performance is worse.
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Old 01-22-2020, 05:48 PM   #25
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It will bump steer like crazy. It is important to maintain the inverted Y geometry of the factory system and make sure your drag link is parallel with your track bar.
X2 and agreed, that design is notorious for causing steering issues like bump steer.
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Old 01-23-2020, 03:52 AM   #26
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Another thing to think about is having tie rod assemble to be a weak link instead of axle end or steering knuckle.
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Old 01-23-2020, 02:30 PM
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what does that mean blade?
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Old 01-23-2020, 02:44 PM   #28
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what does that mean blade?
its better to bend a tierod than to bust a knuckle or do other axle damage. basically dont overbuild the weak link making a much more expensive/difficult repair the new weak link.
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Old 01-23-2020, 10:36 PM
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oh, yeah totally
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Old 01-24-2020, 06:35 AM   #30
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Spot on.. cheaper to fix steering linkage than replace axle. Just like having weaker driveshaft u-joints than axle..

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