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Old 11-10-2015, 07:56 AM
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TJ rear dana 44 axle swap

I have a 04 TJ X with the stock 3.73 drum brake dana 35 rear. I recently got a awesome deal on a low mile, Dana 44 with disc brakes, 3.73 and a LSD outta 2005 LJ.
My question is, what is involved in the swap? I know the suspension and driveshaft will bolt right back up but what about the brake lines and emergency brake cables? Thanks!

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Old 11-10-2015, 08:26 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by sedanss View Post
I have a 04 TJ X with the stock 3.73 drum brake dana 35 rear. I recently got a awesome deal on a low mile, Dana 44 with disc brakes, 3.73 and a LSD outta 2005 LJ.
My question is, what is involved in the swap? I know the suspension and driveshaft will bolt right back up but what about the brake lines and emergency brake cables? Thanks!
Not sure about the brakes, mine had drum brakes, but I did have to shorten my drive shaft about an inch. The D44 has a longer pinion housing.

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Old 11-10-2015, 10:19 AM
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Not sure about the brakes, mine had drum brakes, but I did have to shorten my drive shaft about an inch. The D44 has a longer pinion housing.
Really, what was the dana 44 that u used out of? Mine is out of the same year TJ/LJ as mine. I was told the driveshaft would bolt right up?
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Old 11-10-2015, 10:24 AM   #4
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The driveshaft only needs to be shorter after replacing the D35 with a D44 if no suspension lift has been installed. A suspension lift creates more available length for the driveshaft.
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Old 11-10-2015, 10:59 AM
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The driveshaft only needs to be shorter after replacing the D35 with a D44 if no suspension lift has been installed. A suspension lift creates more available length for the driveshaft.
I have the OME 2" SL and also a 1.25" BL. Do u think I can use the stock drive shaft that was running the dana 35?
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Old 11-10-2015, 11:11 AM   #6
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Yes. The BL doesn't affect anything but you'll be fine with that 2" SL.
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Old 11-10-2015, 11:59 AM   #7
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I bought parking brake cables for a Rubicon when I swapped in my D44 with disc brakes.
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Old 11-13-2015, 10:17 AM
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Yes. The BL doesn't affect anything but you'll be fine with that 2" SL.
Jerry, so it seems like it's a pretty straight forward swap, but since it's my first time, do u have any advice or links to how tos? I did a u tube search and actually couldn't find anything...
Thanks!
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Old 11-13-2015, 11:04 AM   #9
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Start soaking bolts with a penetrating oil. Take your time. Take measurements of your current axle set up for reference. When I swapped to a rubi44 I was lucky enough to get the parking brake cables with it. I also swapped over drum brakes. Once complete we cycled the axle movement, full bump, droop, and left right to check for brake line stress, and DC ranges. I did the swap with another member on here (hosejockey), if I recall-we spent 9.5 hours in his garage doing the swap. But that also included a couple of hours cutting out an old tc drop, installing new nutserts and some grinding/painting on the frame.

Another thing to note--when you do get to installing the new axle, dont tighten everything down right way, you need to torque everything to spec once you get the weight of the jeep on the new axle
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Old 11-13-2015, 01:34 PM   #10
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Start soaking bolts with a penetrating oil. Take your time. Take measurements of your current axle set up for reference. When I swapped to a rubi44 I was lucky enough to get the parking brake cables with it. I also swapped over drum brakes. Once complete we cycled the axle movement, full bump, droop, and left right to check for brake line stress, and DC ranges. I did the swap with another member on here (hosejockey), if I recall-we spent 9.5 hours in his garage doing the swap. But that also included a couple of hours cutting out an old tc drop, installing new nutserts and some grinding/painting on the frame.

Another thing to note--when you do get to installing the new axle, dont tighten everything down right way, you need to torque everything to spec once you get the weight of the jeep on the new axle
All that is great advice, especially on soaking all the nuts and bolts with a good penetrant which does not include standard WD-40. Good choices for a penetrant include Kroil, Break-Free, Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster. WD-40 did finally recently introduce their version of a penetrant too which should work fine as well, just don't expect standard WD-40 to be of much help. I'd start spraying the nuts and bolts several days or even a week before you plan to install the lift which will give the penetrant time to work its magic. Nuts and bolts can seize together which is not something you want to have to contend with the day of the installation.
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Old 11-13-2015, 02:18 PM   #11
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I recommend using a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF for a penetrant. I used to have an awful time with rusty nuts and bolts and this has definitely helped. Got a 14 year old upstream O2 sensor out with a crow's foot socket and a 1/2" drive torque wrench. Cheap and effective.

One machine shop did a "scientific" study of penetrants on rusty bolts with the following results:

Penetrant: Average Load:
none 516 ft lbs
WD40 238 ft lbs
PB Blaster 214 ft lbs
Liquid Wrench 127 ft lbs
Kano Kroil 106 ft lbs
ATF-Acetone mix 53 ft lbs
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Old 11-13-2015, 02:30 PM   #12
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The driveshaft only needs to be shorter after replacing the D35 with a D44 if no suspension lift has been installed. A suspension lift creates more available length for the driveshaft.
I ordered a g2 d44 axle from quadratec and they said the oem driveshaft will fit.

Im getting my rearend and regear done monday...i dont have a shorter driveshaft.
Was quadratec wrong?
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Old 11-13-2015, 02:37 PM   #13
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Was quadratec wrong?
No, not if as said above you have any suspension lift installed. How tall is your suspension lift?
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Old 11-13-2015, 02:45 PM   #14
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No, not if as said above you have any suspension lift installed. How tall is your suspension lift?
Im bone stock on suspension...havent done my lift yet. Had to get away from 3:07 gearing first..
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Old 11-13-2015, 03:13 PM   #15
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Im bone stock on suspension...havent done my lift yet. Had to get away from 3:07 gearing first..
Well, that extra 1" of pinion shaft length may or may not be a factor, I just don't recall how much unused compression space is available on the OE rear driveshaft. It might be tempting to cut 1" off the splined tcase output shaft that protrudes out of the transfer case so it couldn't bottom out inside the rear half of the driveshaft in case you drove over a really bad dip in the road.
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Old 11-13-2015, 03:48 PM   #16
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Yea, thats not gonna happen.

Recommendations on driveshaft (brand)?

Sorry for hijacking the thread OP.
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Old 11-13-2015, 04:02 PM   #17
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Yea, thats not gonna happen.

Recommendations on driveshaft (brand)?

Sorry for hijacking the thread OP.
Tom Wood at Tom Wood's Custom Driveshafts has always been my go-to guy for driveshafts the past 15 years or so. Tom Wood's Custom Driveshafts

Ask to speak with Tom if he doesn't answer the phone, tell him I sent you and you might talk him into a bit of a discount. Not to mention that Tom is one of the nicest guys to talk with, he's super helpful and patient. I finally had the pleasure of meeting Tom at a 4x4 show a few years ago, he's just a very nice guy.
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Old 11-13-2015, 04:02 PM   #18
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Recommendations on driveshaft (brand)?
Tom Woods....Fair price and FAST to your door. They will talk to you on the phone and discuss your needs to make sure you are taken care of right the first time. Great people.
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Old 11-13-2015, 07:19 PM   #19
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Chrysler may have set the drive-shafts to work with either axle.

Don't forget that Disc breaks need more break pressure than drum breaks, so you'll probably have to tweak the master cylinder.
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Old 11-17-2015, 05:43 PM   #20
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So i got a call today and my jeep is ready to be picked up.
I asked about the rear driveshaft and they said there were no driveline vibrations, everything was perfectly fine.

Should i be concerned with the rear driveshaft fitment?

Pickup in the am.
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:23 PM   #21
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So i got a call today and my jeep is ready to be picked up.
I asked about the rear driveshaft and they said there were no driveline vibrations, everything was perfectly fine.

Should i be concerned with the rear driveshaft fitment?

Pickup in the am.
Not having vibrations is good but the main thing to worry about is length. If it's too long, you can destroy your t-case. Imagine the axle going to full droop. As it does that, the driveshaft compresses. If it bottoms out, any additional compression will be pushed into the t-case.

It's easy to see if you will have an issue and takes just a little work. Disconnect your driveshaft from the axle side. Manually compress it until it stops. Mark that spot on the driveshaft. Re-install the DS. With your Jeep at ride height, mark your driveshaft at the slip joint. The raise the Jeep and get the frame on jackstands where you can let the axle droop. Let the axle go to full droop and compare the marks. If at droop it goes to the full compression mark, then you need to get it shortened.
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Old 11-18-2015, 04:49 PM   #22
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So I called quadratec today and asked them about my driveshaft and it possibly being too long. They put me on hold for a while so I am assuming they called G2. They told me that it was a direct replacement d44 and that the stock driveshaft should fit just fine. After I got off the phone with them I called the installer and they are going to do the check that was mentioned. I'm doing this just to be on the safe side. Quadratecrepresentative told me on the phone that normally on the webpage it would say if a driveshaft modification were needed and I didn't see it on the website. Hopefully I can get this straightened out.
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Old 11-18-2015, 04:59 PM   #23
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The last place I would go to for accurate tech data on something like driveshaft length is a Quadratech sales guy. Their sales reps are, at least in my personal opinion, only about a half-step ahead of my wife in terms of technical knowledge and my wife barely recognizes a Jeep when she sees one.
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Old 11-18-2015, 06:06 PM   #24
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The last place I would go to for accurate tech data on something like driveshaft length is a Quadratech sales guy. Their sales reps are, at least in my personal opinion, only about a half-step ahead of my wife in terms of technical knowledge and my wife barely recognizes a Jeep when she sees one.
oh i agree but he said the manufacturer said it wasnt required so I assumed he called g2...

Like i said the installer is eastern trucks and accessories (biggest installer in the area) qnd they are going to check it for me in the am....

Either way- the ome lift is coming very soon
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Old 11-19-2015, 10:11 PM   #25
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I have a 04 TJ X with the stock 3.73 drum brake dana 35 rear. I recently got a awesome deal on a low mile, Dana 44 with disc brakes, 3.73 and a LSD outta 2005 LJ.
My question is, what is involved in the swap? I know the suspension and driveshaft will bolt right back up but what about the brake lines and emergency brake cables? Thanks!
I swapped a 2006 D44 with disc brakes for my D35 in my 99.
The brakes were a direct hookup nothing else required. Even the E-brake cables hooked right up.
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Old 11-20-2015, 05:00 AM   #26
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Just finished installing front and rear g2 Dana 44, the rear was pretty straight forward no drive shaft mods needed. I kept the factory rear drums so every thing swapped right over from the 35. The front on the other hand did need the driveshaft shortened about 2" .
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Old 11-20-2015, 11:31 AM   #27
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Just finished installing front and rear g2 Dana 44, the rear was pretty straight forward no drive shaft mods needed. I kept the factory rear drums so every thing swapped right over from the 35. The front on the other hand did need the driveshaft shortened about 2" .
mine is done as well!!!
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Old 11-20-2015, 01:49 PM   #28
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mine is done as well!!!
The only bad part right now is the speedometer is way off. I've got to get a new speedometer gear and do some research on which one to get.
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Old 11-20-2015, 02:36 PM   #29
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The only bad part right now is the speedometer is way off. I've got to get a new speedometer gear and do some research on which one to get.
Here you go Rob, the speedometer gear chart on this webpage is dead-nuts on, gps verified. Changing Your Jeep Speedometer Gear
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Old 11-20-2015, 03:09 PM   #30
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Here you go Rob, the speedometer gear chart on this webpage is dead-nuts on, gps verified. Changing Your Jeep Speedometer Gear
now for the record, i was gonna research first, lol.

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