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Old 03-03-2019, 12:00 PM
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Trans Flush

Recently "Gina" took in too much water at one the off-road parks we were at. She went into L mode it seemed and wouldn't shift through gears in drive... High revs etc.

So I flushed with 12 quarts of ATF+4 yesterday and she came to life again! However, during the flush I disconnected the hose from passenger side of the rad cooler but no fluid would come out (vehicle in neutral). I then disconnected the hose from the driver side cooler and the fluid started to flow very slowly then at good speed. I continued flushing about 6.5 quarts through, stopped and connected driver side hose. Started again and fluid started coming out of the passenger side hose as previously desired. So the cooler got flushed with about 2.5 quarts. The fluid looked a lot better but not quite as clear as the original fluid going in. Is that enough or should I keep flushing now that the cooler is in the loop?

Also, now she bogs down / shutters / stalls when I go from reverse to neutral or drive to neutral. Any ideas? New TPS installed some months ago so don't think it's this. Maybe it's the torque converter... Hopefully not. Thanks for your time and help!!

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Old 03-03-2019, 12:25 PM   #2
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Keep flushing!
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Old 03-03-2019, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
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Keep flushing!
Thanks Jerry, I appreciate your previous posts on other threads as well to get me where I'm at. Thought she was a'goner

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Old 03-03-2019, 01:03 PM   #4
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I'd do another flush.
As part of your initial flush, did you pull the pan and replace the filter?

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 03-03-2019, 01:06 PM   #5
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Flush until the ATF runs clear. Once more should be enough.

Be sure that the ATF is hot when you do, especially if you have an external ATF cooler. Some external coolers have a thermostat and bypass for cold ATF before the ATF in the transmission warms up which would prevent flushing the external cooler unless the ATF is hot.

Be sure to check the ATF level when hot. Engine running, in Park or Neutral depending upon your transmission.
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Old 03-03-2019, 01:10 PM   #6
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As previously mentioned, I would drain and refill again. Make sure you are pulling the pan and changing the transmission filter also.
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Old 03-03-2019, 01:15 PM
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I'd do another flush.
As part of your initial flush, did you pull the pan and replace the filter?

Good Luck, L.M.
Thanks. I'm going to try another full flush as mentioned by the folks here. I dropped the pan, cleaned, and replaced the filter also. That pan was NASTY!!

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Old 03-03-2019, 03:59 PM   #8
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The above is why I won't wheel in areas where the water is deep enough to cause potential problems. Peer pressure can be a bitch.
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Old 03-03-2019, 05:35 PM
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The above is why I won't wheel in areas where the water is deep enough to cause potential problems. Peer pressure can be a bitch.
Lesson learned indeed...

On the plus side I gained some knowledge .

-The trans can easily take in water and where it can take in water
-Skid drop
-Trans flush
-Don't go full retard




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Old 03-03-2019, 09:08 PM   #10
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I think you gotta pull the valve body, disassemble, clean, reassemble, at least.
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Old 03-04-2019, 10:40 AM
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Quick update:
Flushed with another 12 quarts until red/clear and took it out for a drive. Shifted into reverse, drive, 1st and 2nd no problem. However, it wouldn't shift to 3rd...unless I put in neutral then back into drive while moving. Really weird, then after pulling off of the interstate, it didn't down shift properly so I stalled out. Also, the 1st to 2nd shift happened consistently at 3500 rpm...hope it's really not shot. Maybe I really should pull the valve body and clean.

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Old 03-04-2019, 10:50 AM   #12
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I would drop the pan again, drop the valve body clean things up the best I could replace the filter again, and flush it, again. Automatic transmission clutches don't do well when they come in contact with water. The sooner you get to work on it the better.
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Old 03-04-2019, 11:21 AM   #13
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It does sound like dropping the valve body is appropriate now. There are a lot of tight channels, valves, and check balls inside it. Just make sure you note where all the check balls go before they get out of place, they are loose and can fall out/get into the wrong channels if you're not careful or note where they were.

This is what it looks like inside, I had to work mine over last year during a repair after it quit on me out in the middle of the desert. You'll want an inch-lbs. torque wrench (1/4" drive size) when putting it back together, the one I bought at Harbor Freight Tools worked well.
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Old 03-04-2019, 11:32 AM
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Thanks for the info. I will try this next... already have the HF 1/4" torque wrench

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Old 03-04-2019, 07:42 PM   #15
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Another hint!!

When you re-pull the pan, filter and valve body, take a pic with your phone of the valve body in place (bottom of the VB) and the valve body on the bench (top of VB) as soon as you have the VB pulled.
Have PLENTY of light and make certain that everything is sparkly clean.

I think another new filter is warranted too.

Keep us posted on your results.

Good Luck, L.M.

P.S. Taking a pre-disassembly pic is a good idea for any job that you're not familiar with.
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Old 03-06-2019, 06:56 PM
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Any recommendations on what to use to clean the valve body?

Still trying to find Pacman in that VB photo lol that's wild

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Old 03-06-2019, 07:29 PM   #17
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Any recommendations on what to use to clean the valve body?
I used two cans of brake cleaner, I didn't want even a micro-spec of contamination left behind inside. I triple-cleaned the electrical connectors with contact cleaner too.
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Old 03-15-2019, 09:23 AM
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I'm following the 32rh manual..How does one "remove throttle and manual valve levers from manual valve shaft"? I loosened the clamp bolts where the levers are but not sure exactly how to remove the levers... Or if this is even necessary. I disconnected the solenoid wire and have the VB bolts loosened currently. Maybe I need to pry the levers off? Just can't see very good in there

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Old 03-20-2019, 09:36 AM
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Finally had a chance to try again and was able to remove the valve body and start disassembling. How far did you folks actually disassemble this thing? Should I totally break it down?

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Old 03-20-2019, 11:33 AM   #20
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Finally had a chance to try again and was able to remove the valve body and start disassembling. How far did you folks actually disassemble this thing? Should I totally break it down?
I split my 42RLE's valve body in half to install the Transgo kit and it's not a bad job at all. Considering all its nooks & crannies and that you flooded your transmission I sure wouldn't not want to split it in half to thoroughly flush and clean it out. I flushed mine with a couple cans of brake cleaner.

You do need an inch-lbs. 1/4" drive torque wrench to put it back together again. I haven't split a 32RH valve body but there are likely some little plastic check valve balls inside the little channels like you see below. Take a photo of where they came from so you get them back in the same locations again.

Here are some useful pages out of the FSM. If you don't have a copy of your model year's FSM, I'd download one as it is very complete on everything to do with your transmission.
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Old 03-20-2019, 11:34 AM   #21
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These are the last of the pages for the valve body. The last is of my 42RLE's valve body interior, you can see how it could collect sand/dirt from your transmission's immersion and why I recommend you split it in half to make sure it's thoroughly clean before reinstalling it. Just be careful to note the position of any check valve balls and make sure they're back in their correct positions when you're done. They're little tiny things with the diameter of the channels you can see in the photo.
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Old 03-21-2019, 04:23 PM   #22
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Just a helpful tip. The check balls can be held in their proper location with a dab of Vaseline for reassembly. No worries as it will dissolve in trans fluid upon start up.
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Old 03-22-2019, 08:20 PM
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Alright, almost got this thing disassembled. I'm stuck on the kickdown detent... Is it pressed in? I can't seem to remove it. Ideas?

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Old 03-22-2019, 08:25 PM   #24
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On my 42RLE those valves are removed by pushing in a bit and removing the small c-clip that secures them in place.
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Old 03-22-2019, 08:58 PM
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On my 42RLE those valves are removed by pushing in a bit and removing the small c-clip that secures them in place.
Thanks Jerry. I was able to put some rubber grips and twist then it came out....gummed up with debris. Lots of debris inside in general. Hoping the cleanse works

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Old 03-22-2019, 09:27 PM
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Time for cleaning and reassembly

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Old 03-22-2019, 09:56 PM   #27
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Wow there's a lot more complexity to your 32RH valve body than there was to my 42RLE valve body. Good luck with it!
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Old 03-22-2019, 10:03 PM   #28
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That would scare me right there lol! Good luck on reassembly
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Old 03-24-2019, 01:05 PM
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She's all sparkly clean and put back together now... I'm about to install but have a quick question. Does it matter which gear the manual lever is set at? The manual says place "in low" I hear you should put it in Neutral/Park but I don't know which notch that is

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Old 03-24-2019, 06:36 PM   #30
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Holy Cow jgalvar, you're one brave dude.
I'd have had the pan & filter off and looked at the valve body and buttoned it up, filled it with fluid and headed to a transmission shop.

That's a great idea of how you outlined the sub-assemblies and hardware for that sub-assembly.
Using the top of a plastic bin is a good idea too. I'll copy that. When I'm done, I can keep all the left over parts that I don't know where they go in the bin.

Good Luck, L.M.
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