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Old 03-15-2017, 02:17 PM
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Tummy Tuck install question

I just finished installing a SS SYE and my UCF skid should be shipping out at the end of the week. I've currently got the TC supported by jack stands and both driveshafts are disconnected from it. I've got all the necessary requirements for a TT (BL, MML, Savvy TC shift linkage, etc...) so I know I'm good from that perspective . When I start to install the new skid is there anything else that needs to be disconnected or that I should keep an eye on when I start to jack the transfer case up until the skid meets the frame and can be bolted up?

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Old 03-15-2017, 02:25 PM   #2
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I held mine up by the bell housing with the jack and a block of wood, that helped clear the tcase completely and allowed me to bolt the skid up, then I could rest the tcase on the new skid and finish bolting it up. I also removed the boot around the shifter inside, when I pushed the skid up that high, it put a lot of strain on the boot almost causing the bezel to break (cheap, $5 part). Otherwise make sure you put antisieze on everything and you should be good.

Dont want to sound like an idiot here, but you mentioned ssye, the linkage, BL and MML, but do you have control arms? Pretty big part...

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Old 03-15-2017, 02:40 PM
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I held mine up by the bell housing with the jack and a block of wood, that helped clear the tcase completely and allowed me to bolt the skid up, then I could rest the tcase on the new skid and finish bolting it up. I also removed the boot around the shifter inside, when I pushed the skid up that high, it put a lot of strain on the boot almost causing the bezel to break (cheap, $5 part). Otherwise make sure you put antisieze on everything and you should be good.

Dont want to sound like an idiot here, but you mentioned ssye, the linkage, BL and MML, but do you have control arms? Pretty big part...
Thanks for the info on the boot I will do that. I didn't think about it before, but I guess this will raise the stick a couple of inches higher right? Does it cause any shifting issues or shifter hitting the edges of the center console? Yes, I have all adjustable CAs. I've had the fronts for a while but will be installing the rear upper, lower, and adj. trackbar after I do the tummy tuck. I'll be swapping in a D44 in the rear also at the same time. Once I get everything setup I will measure and order a new driveshaft from Adams driveshaft. My only concern that I can think of being an issue right now is my BDS 5500 shocks not having enough clearance at the axle side coil pads. I know I can trim the pads but these shocks can't be flipped can up so I don't know if that will work. I may just end up replacing the shocks anyways since I don't love them.
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Old 03-15-2017, 03:01 PM   #4
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Thanks for the info on the boot I will do that. I didn't think about it before, but I guess this will raise the stick a couple of inches higher right? Does it cause any shifting issues or shifter hitting the edges of the center console? Yes, I have all adjustable CAs. I've had the fronts for a while but will be installing the rear upper, lower, and adj. trackbar after I do the tummy tuck. I'll be swapping in a D44 in the rear also at the same time. Once I get everything setup I will measure and order a new driveshaft from Adams driveshaft. My only concern that I can think of being an issue right now is my BDS 5500 shocks not having enough clearance at the axle side coil pads. I know I can trim the pads but these shocks can't be flipped can up so I don't know if that will work. I may just end up replacing the shocks anyways since I don't love them.
You can relieve the coil perches enough to give you the clearance you need. I'm running basically the same set up with ome shocks which have cans on both ends. Just be careful of the brake line when trimming.
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Old 03-15-2017, 03:16 PM   #5
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Some folks have had issues with the new position of the stick, meaning it may or may not hit the dash along with popping out of 1st and 3rd. Many people replace the accordian style boot with a leather one, or move the console back about 1/2".

Yep you can take quite a bit off the perch. Here were my previous perches




I did the savvy TT last year, I had a whole mess of problems. But every jeep is different.
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Old 03-15-2017, 04:25 PM
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Some folks have had issues with the new position of the stick, meaning it may or may not hit the dash along with popping out of 1st and 3rd. Many people replace the accordian style boot with a leather one, or move the console back about 1/2".

Yep you can take quite a bit off the perch. Here were my previous perches




I did the savvy TT last year, I had a whole mess of problems. But every jeep is different.
I've got a leather shift boot I bought from someone who makes them on the forums here so hopefully that will help. I've got a custom switch panel down there though where the cig lighter and ash tray use to go so hopefully it will clear it. What other problems did you run into? I've got a Savvy GTS so I'm hoping that will prevent any issues with the track bar hitting the GTS. I've got my fingers crossed that there are no exhaust or exhaust hanger modifications needed.
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Old 03-15-2017, 04:26 PM
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You can relieve the coil perches enough to give you the clearance you need. I'm running basically the same set up with ome shocks which have cans on both ends. Just be careful of the brake line when trimming.
Thanks I will definitely keep the brake lines in mind!
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Old 03-15-2017, 04:41 PM   #8
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What other problems did you run into?
I had issues with my driveshaft binding and the pinion angle was incredibly steep, along with rear coil bind.

Shaved the axle, clocked everything forward, and did the perch relocation mod and shock shifter mod to try and get a 50/50 travel. Came close, I have 6" up, and 4" down. Also installed the JB super short to help out. I havent seen to many people with the same issues I had. So I think youll be alright
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Old 03-15-2017, 05:22 PM
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I had issues with my driveshaft binding and the pinion angle was incredibly steep, along with rear coil bind.

Shaved the axle, clocked everything forward, and did the perch relocation mod and shock shifter mod to try and get a 50/50 travel. Came close, I have 6" up, and 4" down. Also installed the JB super short to help out. I havent seen to many people with the same issues I had. So I think youll be alright
I hope so. I installed the JB SS also and I've got a 3in SL so the pinion angle shouldn't be quite as bad as yours probably was with a 4in SL. What is the shock shifter mod? I'm considering doing the perch relocation on the frame side, but I haven't decided yet. I was going to wait and see what it looked like.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:06 PM   #10
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What is the shock shifter mod?
Moving the rear axle shock mounts over and closer to the tires. Advantages are increased uptravel without losing any downtravel. So I am close to a 50/50 travel shock. 6" up and 4" down. Had a little measuring issue when we did this mod which caused us to lose an 1" of downtravel. Also feels a little bit more "planted" when driving down the hwy and taking turns. I am still happy with the results. I had a ton of help from Unlimited04, Hosejockey, jjvw, and CO_Holiday.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/lo...antage-852221/



I would say while you have the rear axle out and still waiting on parts, go ahead and relocate the rear frame side spring perches. Quick work with a grinder. And definitely easier if you have a welder. Keep the u shaped channels on the perch and it will stay center on the frame. Keeps your springs nice and straight. Plus making the perch level is simple, there is a small hole on top that is the exact center of the arc on the frame.

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Old 03-15-2017, 08:11 PM
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What is the shock shifter mod?
Moving the rear axle shock mounts over and closer to the tires. Advantages are increased uptravel without losing any downtravel. So I am close to a 50/50 travel shock. 6" up and 4" down. Had a little measuring issue when we did this mod which caused us to lose an 1" of downtravel. Also feels a little bit more "planted" when driving down the hwy and taking turns. I am still happy with the results. I had a ton of help from Unlimited04, Hosejockey, jjvw, and CO_Holiday.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/lo...antage-852221/



I would say while you have the rear axle out and still waiting on parts, go ahead and relocate the rear frame side spring perches. Quick work with a grinder. And definitely easier if you have a welder. Keep the u shaped channels on the perch and it will stay center on the frame. Keeps your springs nice and straight. Plus making the perch level is simple, there is a small hole on top that is the exact center of the arc on the frame.

I def want to do this especially before putting it all back together, but I don't have a welder or any welding experience. I may see if I can find someone local who would be willing to come to my house and weld it for me. Did you have to remove the gas tank when you did it? Do I have to move the shocks at the same time?
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:15 PM   #12
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Did you have to remove the gas tank when you did it? Do I have to move the shocks at the same time?
Yes. Gas tank has to be removed in order to cut the perch channels on the backside and reweld them. You mount the new shock mounts based on your shock travel. Tack the mounts, bolt the shocks, and then run full droop, bump, and ride height
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Old 03-15-2017, 11:22 PM   #13
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I'm working on my extreme TT from UCF right now. I've already ben running a BL and MML. Before starting the TT my gear shifter(manual) was hitting the back of the console(2nd, 4th). While test fitting with the TT its moved it all the way to the front(1st, etc.). I didn't see if you're doing the LoPro mount which will reduce how high the TC goes. If doing that, you will need to cut and shorten the Cat mount bracket so it doesn't hit the tub. I went with the Teraflex extreme short shaft. Oh, and I've just installed the upper perch relocator for the rear(Genright). While doing all this, the rear axle, gas tank and cat back exhaust was removed.
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Old 03-16-2017, 01:46 PM
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I'm working on my extreme TT from UCF right now. I've already ben running a BL and MML. Before starting the TT my gear shifter(manual) was hitting the back of the console(2nd, 4th). While test fitting with the TT its moved it all the way to the front(1st, etc.). I didn't see if you're doing the LoPro mount which will reduce how high the TC goes. If doing that, you will need to cut and shorten the Cat mount bracket so it doesn't hit the tub. I went with the Teraflex extreme short shaft. Oh, and I've just installed the upper perch relocator for the rear(Genright). While doing all this, the rear axle, gas tank and cat back exhaust was removed.
Thanks for the info! I'm not currently planning on running the lo pro mount. It looks like the Lo Pro can save you about 3/4 inches. When I install my skid if I have issues and the 3/4 of an inch looks like it may prevent those issues then I may consider it.
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Old 03-16-2017, 03:25 PM   #15
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Thanks for the info! I'm not currently planning on running the lo pro mount. It looks like the Lo Pro can save you about 3/4 inches. When I install my skid if I have issues and the 3/4 of an inch looks like it may prevent those issues then I may consider it.
I'm running the ucf ultra high clearance skid, jb super short sye, 1" mml, 4" suspension lift, 1" bl, with a 5 speed and the stock trans mount and had absolutely no clearance issues. I chose the stock mount to eliminate any extra vibration that the lopro might transmit.
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Old 03-16-2017, 05:54 PM
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I'm running the ucf ultra high clearance skid, jb super short sye, 1" mml, 4" suspension lift, 1" bl, with a 5 speed and the stock trans mount and had absolutely no clearance issues. I chose the stock mount to eliminate any extra vibration that the lopro might transmit.
That's the same setup I have except I have a 3" SL. Did you relocate the coil brackets on the frame side to get the arc out of the rear coil springs?
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Old 03-16-2017, 09:21 PM   #17
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That's the same setup I have except I have a 3" SL. Did you relocate the coil brackets on the frame side to get the arc out of the rear coil springs?
Nope
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:07 PM   #18
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I'm running the ucf ultra high clearance skid, jb super short sye, 1" mml, 4" suspension lift, 1" bl, with a 5 speed and the stock trans mount and had absolutely no clearance issues. I chose the stock mount to eliminate any extra vibration that the lopro might transmit.
Water Dog do you recommend the MML lift with the body lift for the tummy tuck? What is the advantage of the MML lift with the BL? I have a SS SYE already and adding the 1.25 body lift to the 3.5" suspension I have already with adjustable arms I also picked up a Savvy gas tank skid

Thanks
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Old 03-21-2017, 01:39 PM   #19
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Water Dog do you recommend the MML lift with the body lift for the tummy tuck? What is the advantage of the MML lift with the BL? I have a SS SYE already and adding the 1.25 body lift to the 3.5" suspension I have already with adjustable arms I also picked up a Savvy gas tank skid

Thanks
I did the mml on mine primarily because I knew I was raising the t-case skid to almost flat and still using the stock tranny mount, I wanted to do everything I could to lessen the drive shaft and pinion angle.

You do not have to do a mml with a body lift, but by doing it, you avoid radiator shroud clearance issues. It's pretty easy to lower your radiator shroud though...actually probably easier than installing the mml.
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Old 03-24-2017, 12:47 AM
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I had a few minutes free this evening so I got the TC skid installed. Everything went smooth. There's not much room now between the exhaust and the rear passenger side upper control arm bracket so getting a bolt in there to install my new CA may pose a challenge without removing the skid. My main concern though is just by eye balling the angle between the tc and front axle yoke I think the driveshaft may rest on the skid unless I do a little cutting on the skid to clearance it a little bit. I have the driveshaft out right now so I won't know for sure until I try. Im going to install the engine skid next but I need to get a coat of paint on steel braces first before I do.
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Old 03-24-2017, 12:10 PM
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I'm working on my extreme TT from UCF right now. I've already ben running a BL and MML. Before starting the TT my gear shifter(manual) was hitting the back of the console(2nd, 4th). While test fitting with the TT its moved it all the way to the front(1st, etc.). I didn't see if you're doing the LoPro mount which will reduce how high the TC goes. If doing that, you will need to cut and shorten the Cat mount bracket so it doesn't hit the tub. I went with the Teraflex extreme short shaft. Oh, and I've just installed the upper perch relocator for the rear(Genright). While doing all this, the rear axle, gas tank and cat back exhaust was removed.
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I held mine up by the bell housing with the jack and a block of wood, that helped clear the tcase completely and allowed me to bolt the skid up, then I could rest the tcase on the new skid and finish bolting it up. I also removed the boot around the shifter inside, when I pushed the skid up that high, it put a lot of strain on the boot almost causing the bezel to break (cheap, $5 part). Otherwise make sure you put antisieze on everything and you should be good.

Dont want to sound like an idiot here, but you mentioned ssye, the linkage, BL and MML, but do you have control arms? Pretty big part...
Are either of ya'll running a low pinion D30 in the front? I know WaterDog runs a HP30. Any issues with the front driveshaft clearing the skid? I haven't tried to put my driveshaft back on yet but I've got a feeling its going to hit the skid.
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Old 03-24-2017, 12:34 PM   #22
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I did the mml on mine primarily because I knew I was raising the t-case skid to almost flat and still using the stock tranny mount, I wanted to do everything I could to lessen the drive shaft and pinion angle.

You do not have to do a mml with a body lift, but by doing it, you avoid radiator shroud clearance issues. It's pretty easy to lower your radiator shroud though...actually probably easier than installing the mml.
Hey Water Dog... When you have a chance can you take a measurement from the ground to the bottom of the UCF skid plate. I am running 3.5" RK kit with 1.25" BL, JB SS SYE....also running 1" MML. I have the Ultra low profile skid plate with the 42RLE automatic. I had to space the skid down an inch to make the drive line happy. On 35's I have 18 inches from ground to the bottom of the skid. Does yours sit lower? I think the RK kit yields way more than 3.5"....more like 4.5-5".
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Old 03-24-2017, 12:37 PM   #23
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Are either of ya'll running a low pinion D30 in the front? I know WaterDog runs a HP30. Any issues with the front driveshaft clearing the skid? I haven't tried to put my driveshaft back on yet but I've got a feeling its going to hit the skid.

I still have my LP30 installed in the front with no issues. My UCF skid has a "U" shaped recess for the front DS.

Will have tons of room when the HP Pro Rock goes in next week.
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Old 03-24-2017, 12:53 PM   #24
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Are either of ya'll running a low pinion D30 in the front? I know WaterDog runs a HP30. Any issues with the front driveshaft clearing the skid? I haven't tried to put my driveshaft back on yet but I've got a feeling its going to hit the skid.
LPD30 here. I don't have any issues contacting the skid with my driveshaft.
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Old 03-25-2017, 02:42 PM   #25
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Hey Water Dog... When you have a chance can you take a measurement from the ground to the bottom of the UCF skid plate. I am running 3.5" RK kit with 1.25" BL, JB SS SYE....also running 1" MML. I have the Ultra low profile skid plate with the 42RLE automatic. I had to space the skid down an inch to make the drive line happy. On 35's I have 18 inches from ground to the bottom of the skid. Does yours sit lower? I think the RK kit yields way more than 3.5"....more like 4.5-5".
The measurement from the ground to skid bottom on mine is 19 1/2". I have a 4" sus lift with ome springs, 35" tires, and the ultra high clearance skid bolted directly to the frame.
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Old 03-26-2017, 10:00 AM   #26
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The measurement from the ground to skid bottom on mine is 19 1/2". I have a 4" sus lift with ome springs, 35" tires, and the ultra high clearance skid bolted directly to the frame.
Thanks for taking the measurements. When i go directly to the frame with the skid (no Spacer) I get a clicking noise from the T/C and CV joint area. I can jack the rear up and spin the driveshaft by hand and everything runs smooth but under acceleration I get the clicking noise. When I spaced the T/C skid down 1" it is all quite. I have all 4 adjustable arms for the rear suspension. At a loss of this one. The rear is rotated to have the pinion on the same angle as the driveshaft.
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Old 04-30-2017, 10:13 PM   #27
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Are either of ya'll running a low pinion D30 in the front? I know WaterDog runs a HP30. Any issues with the front driveshaft clearing the skid? I haven't tried to put my driveshaft back on yet but I've got a feeling its going to hit the skid.
Bryand

Sorry I didn't get back to you, I don't check the forum as often as I should. I switched over to a HP30 while doing my current build. I never tried to install the driveshaft before the axle was swapped out. I now have the TT skid in and the driveshaft running to my HP30 with days of clearance. I don't have a good shot of what you're looking for but here's a pic of it sitting on all 4's for the first time in 2 months.
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Old 04-30-2017, 11:04 PM
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Location: Jackson, Tennessee
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Originally Posted by Bryand82487 View Post
Are either of ya'll running a low pinion D30 in the front? I know WaterDog runs a HP30. Any issues with the front driveshaft clearing the skid? I haven't tried to put my driveshaft back on yet but I've got a feeling its going to hit the skid.
Bryand

Sorry I didn't get back to you, I don't check the forum as often as I should. I switched over to a HP30 while doing my current build. I never tried to install the driveshaft before the axle was swapped out. I now have the TT skid in and the driveshaft running to my HP30 with days of clearance. I don't have a good shot of what you're looking for but here's a pic of it sitting on all 4's for the first time in 2 months.
No big deal! Thanks for getting back to me. Your jeeps looking good!
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Old 05-01-2017, 10:24 AM   #29
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Parker, CO
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Originally Posted by 338Lapua View Post
Thanks for taking the measurements. When i go directly to the frame with the skid (no Spacer) I get a clicking noise from the T/C and CV joint area. I can jack the rear up and spin the driveshaft by hand and everything runs smooth but under acceleration I get the clicking noise. When I spaced the T/C skid down 1" it is all quite. I have all 4 adjustable arms for the rear suspension. At a loss of this one. The rear is rotated to have the pinion on the same angle as the driveshaft.
I had a clicking noise on my front driveshaft. Turned out to be the grease zerk hitting the cable shifter mount bolt just enough to drive me crazy trying to figure out what it was.

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