U joints needle bearings vibratins... Somethings about to give - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Tech Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today

Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 02-10-2011, 12:36 AM
Thread Starter
wavebacktothetj's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,068
U joints needle bearings vibratins... Somethings about to give

Heres my problem i have a 2004 tj with 112,000 on it, i have vibrations under my floorboard and feels like something is loose and when i take off at a light i get this chirp that increases with myaccelation then stops and then the continued rattle/vibration so i removed my front driveshaft and although its not as severe it didnt stop this so now i look at my front axle ujoint and it has some play in it back and forth easily, but i am thinking it might be a bearing issue as well im getting a haynes manual and i am going to dissamble my front axle ANY advice suggestions experience is welcomed i am at a loss thanks in advance

wavebacktothetj is offline   Quote
Old 02-11-2011, 02:23 AM
Thread Starter
wavebacktothetj's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,068

wavebacktothetj is offline   Quote
Old 02-11-2011, 02:58 AM   #3
B4x4wrangler's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Chattanooga, Tn
Posts: 81
Just replace the whole u-joint
B4x4wrangler is offline   Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 02-11-2011, 07:46 AM   #4

WF Supporting Member
TexasT's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 1,011
X2 on the ujoints. If they've never been changed change them all. I use Spicer without zerk fittings. If you have recently lifted it or added other modification then it could be other things.
1999 Sahara
4" Teraflex long arm lift. D30 tubed with chromoly axles, high pinion, powertrax no-slip and Warn Lockout Hubs. D35 w/ultimate 35 upgrade OX locker, 4.56 gears. NP231HD, Air on Board, Warn M8000 Winch.
TexasT is offline   Quote
Old 02-11-2011, 11:16 PM   #5
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 446
Without hard usage about how many miles should a person expect out of the driveshaft and axle U-Joints? My 2001 has about 59,000 on the speedometer and probably another 40-45,000 miles being towed. Don't have any symptoms at this time but also haven't examined them closely, which I probably should do soon.
Gorving3 is offline   Quote
Old 02-12-2011, 12:17 AM   #6
Rubicon2's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northern Lower Michigan
Posts: 1,360
I didn't replace my front U-Joints until about 84,000 miles. Front driveshaft I did around 75,000 miles and rear I did about the same time as the front axles at 84,000 miles.
Rubicon2 is offline   Quote
Old 02-12-2011, 12:54 AM   #7
uppidycon's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Dayton, Tx
Posts: 121
u-joints are cheap and easy to replace.. start there and see if you still have it.. most likely it's the front driveshaft and it's the front u-joint at the output shaft..
2004 1 TON TJ
42" Pit Bull Rockers
uppidycon is offline   Quote
Old 02-12-2011, 10:22 AM   #8
computeruser's Avatar
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Lansing, MI
Posts: 811
Sounds like it is time to play catch-up on your periodic maintenance on critical systems!

1. Rebuild front driveshaft, since it's out already. I like greasable Spicer joints, but non-greasable joints are fine if you don't go swimming often. Replace centering ball/cup setup, too.

2. Rebuild rear driveshaft, so you have the same miles on those joints as on the front ones.

3. Replace front axle joints - if you can't remember when you last did them, you need to do them now.

4. Since you have to pull the front bearings to get to the front u-joints anyway, replace those. At 112k, it's time. Use the good Timken bearings, not the chinese ones.

5. Inspect ball joints, too.

6. New front brake pads and rotors are cheap, so if its' coming up on time for those, throw 'em on while everything is apart.

7. Check to make sure trans mount bushing is still good.

8. Make sure pinion bearings/seals look good on front and rear axles.

9. Change front/rear diff juice. You can pick up an extra .5-1mpg with synthetic, if you aren't running it already.

If you do this yourself, you won't be into it for a ton of coin. Buy good parts, though - Spicer, Moog, etc., and not the store brand chinese crap - because if you do this stuff right with the right parts then you'll be good for another 100k trouble-free miles. If you pay someone else to do the work, well, the labor on this lot of work would add up.

These are repairs/maintenance points which tend to recommend being done together at the same time, since so much of the labor overlaps. And these are repairs which translate directly to increased resale value - being able to say and prove with receipts that "I did all this stuff 35k miles ago" is worth something to an educated buyer. And if selling isn't on the horizon, well, you'll have a more trustworthy vehicle if you do these repairs preventatively, instead of waiting for a failure.

computeruser is offline   Quote

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:33 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, Gladiator, Mopar and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to FCA US LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with FCA US LLC.