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Old 03-20-2016, 01:55 PM
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Well i hit a mud hole.. it was cool until..

My radiator fan quit working.
I was at Frank Raines OHV in Patterson CA. and i hit a new water hole they dug. after that i kept overheating while climbing a trail. i tried to diagnose as i thought it was a fuse or something simple. i came down the trail and was ready to leave when the top of my radiator exploded. Had AAA come tow it to my house where im spending sunday putting in a new aluminum radiator that my buddy had laying around.
Anyone know where i can look for my fan complication? Thanks

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Old 03-20-2016, 02:17 PM   #2
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Probably fried the fan clutch.

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Old 03-20-2016, 06:22 PM
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how can i test it? i have the radiator and fan shroud out and im looking around. i find it odd that there are no wires leading to or coming off of the fan clutch. also the fan and clutch has a bit of play on the pulleyshaft
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:05 PM   #4
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The clutch operates by tension from the spring on the front. It's filled with silicone fluid.

It should turn by hand with some resistance but not freewheel or be extremely hard to turn.

The pulley shaft play is the water pump bearing play.

All this assumes a stock setup.
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:35 PM   #5
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It's a $40 part and takes 30 minutes to swap out, I'd just change it.
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Old 03-20-2016, 09:26 PM
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im thinking it is out or on its way out. at idle the fan isnt spinning very fast. it seems to not overheat anymore aftere driving around the neighborhood and into town. it stayed until 210 the whole time
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:13 AM   #7
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How Silicone Clutch Radiator Fans Work

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Originally Posted by wyatty20 View Post
im thinking it is out or on its way out. at idle the fan isnt spinning very fast. it seems to not overheat anymore aftere driving around the neighborhood and into town. it stayed until 210 the whole time
As JKP stated above, the clutch is silicone filled. It heats up from the temperature of the air coming off of the radiator (not the coolant temperature). They are designed to save fuel.

The "low resistance" spinning mode should be about 50% of engine speed. Most normal operation will be in this mode. If your observation of "not turning very fast" is less than that, then it may need to be replaced.

To get the fan to turn fast, the radiator needs to operate near full heat exchange capacity. This will produce maximum air temperature coming off of the radiator heating up the clutch. Such as towing up a 5 % grade in 100 deg heat. Then the silicone will expand and direct couple the fan to the engine speed.

I'd monitor it and if you continue to overheat, then perhaps the silicone has leaked out.

Its also important that if you ever service your fan, to be careful how the clutch is placed on a work surface after removal. Certain orientations can cause the silicone fluid to leak out. The service manual will tell you how to handle it if removing to service a water pump.
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:27 AM   #8
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Diagnosing Fan Clutch / Water Pump Pulley Play

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how can i test it? i have the radiator and fan shroud out and im looking around. i find it odd that there are no wires leading to or coming off of the fan clutch. also the fan and clutch has a bit of play on the pulleyshaft
There should be no play in the Water Pump Pulley. They may be a little on the fan clutch but I am not sure how much would be acceptable as I am not an expert on them.

Try to diagnose where the play is. Obviously do this with engine off, battery disconnected.

Is it between the Fan and Pulley (Clutch Play) or can you grab the water pump pulley and move it around (water pump play). If its the water pump shaft, then likely in additon to the bearing being shot, so too should the seal.

Did you determine if your system leaked fluid and if so from where ?

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