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Old 03-19-2015, 05:47 PM
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What kind of lift?

New to this stuff but looking to "beef " up my 04 tj with a lift kit. Anyone have any recommendations or before and after pics? Not sure weather to go body or suspension lift- any help would be great. I see there's lots of threads on here so I'll prob spend the next month reading before I decide.

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Old 03-19-2015, 05:55 PM   #2
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Good idea. Know what your budget is, what size tires you want to run, is it going to be a DD....

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Old 03-19-2015, 06:15 PM   #3
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also, to wheel or for looks

tons of great knowledge out there, reading before purchasing is key
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Old 03-19-2015, 06:24 PM   #4
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^ This. Cheap budget boost is a good way to get your feet wet. You will get it up in the air a bit and clear out all the nasty bolts in the process. You wont have much invested in it but your time and some skinned knuckles.

From there take some time to figure out a plan. You could go with a 1.25" body lift after that and by then you should know what size tires you want to run. Gears and transmission type play a significant role as tire size has a noticeable effect on performance and braking.

Imo...32's is the threshold before things start getting really expensive unless you don't care about ride, performance, vibrations and braking. You need a good 2" to run 32's. About 3.5 (ish) to run 33's and don't even think about 35's for awhile.

Big thing here is to learn who really knows what they are talking about and who is just talking. There are some very sharp people here. Some seem to know it all and some specialize in certain areas. It wont take you long to figure it out.
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Old 03-19-2015, 09:22 PM   #5
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Here's a pretty cool thread to see how people have transformed their rigs. https://www.wranglerforum.com/f362/le...ck-885370.html
Check out the TJ Picture section and figure out what appeals to you, as well as what you plan to do with your rig.
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Old 03-20-2015, 12:01 AM   #6
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Most "lift kits" are not an upgrade in functionality. They just allow bigger tires for looks. Functionally they suck. A functional, drivable lift that performs well on and off road and rides equal to OEM and to put 33/35 inch tires is not cheap and requires brakes, steering, drive shafts, adjustable control arms, new front and rear HD track bars and for non-Rubis a slip yoke eliminator, gearing, new wheels and it just goes on from there.

J
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Old 03-20-2015, 09:47 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by 3X4X4 View Post
Most "lift kits" are not an upgrade in functionality. They just allow bigger tires for looks. Functionally they suck. A functional, drivable lift that performs well on and off road and rides equal to OEM and to put 33/35 inch tires is not cheap and requires brakes, steering, drive shafts, adjustable control arms, new front and rear HD track bars and for non-Rubis a slip yoke eliminator, gearing, new wheels and it just goes on from there.

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But on a serious note expect to pay over $1000 for a quality lift to do everything mentioned above. Zone does sell a pretty good kit (the 4.25" lift kit I believe) for a decent price. But when you go above 3" typically you will need to lower your transfer case (which is a bit counter productive) or install a Slip Yoke Eliminator and new rear drive shaft. I personally have a Rough country 4" lift with a 1" transfer case drop and it's really not a huge deal for me but more extreme wheelers dont prefer to loose that clearance. It's all about what you want and how deep your pockets are. Theres a difference between an aggressive looking and semi capable jeep and an actual very capable trail jeep.

will you his trails/rocks often? or are you going to do some minor off-roading and just looking to get a good looking ride?

Also, just as a rule of thumb you really shouldn't do over 2" of body lift, it makes your ride less stable and IMHO anything above 1" BL is just excessive and silly.
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Old 03-20-2015, 01:26 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by 3X4X4 View Post
Most "lift kits" are not an upgrade in functionality. They just allow bigger tires for looks. Functionally they suck. A functional, drivable lift that performs well on and off road and rides equal to OEM and to put 33/35 inch tires is not cheap and requires brakes, steering, drive shafts, adjustable control arms, new front and rear HD track bars and for non-Rubis a slip yoke eliminator, gearing, new wheels and it just goes on from there.

J
I can't say I agree with this in terms of your functionality statement. True that there are many low end kits that do not make a lot of sense...such as low end 4" spring kits, fixed control arms, with a 2" skid drop.

But there are several well thought out lift kits that do offer great functionality (ride, clearance, and articulation) over stock.
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Old 03-20-2015, 07:38 PM   #9
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I can't say I agree with this in terms of your functionality statement. True that there are many low end kits that do not make a lot of sense...such as low end 4" spring kits, fixed control arms, with a 2" skid drop.

But there are several well thought out lift kits that do offer great functionality (ride, clearance, and articulation) over stock.
You do not have to. But which "kits" are complete? This one gets you almost there:

Currie Enterprises

But still will needs shocks (250) and steering (100-500) and brakes ( 250 - 1250) and drive shaft (350) and a SYE (350) and possibly a rear track bar and bracket (250 - 400) and wheels (500 - 1000) and tires (750 - 1500).

Or this:

Zone Offroad 4.25" Combo System J25/J26

But you will still needs brakes, SYE, drive shaft, wheels, tires, adjustable control arms, track bars and steering. And the Zone control arms, track bar etc are not okay pieces.

Both of those, at two different ends of the price spectrum, are an excellent base but neither are complete. You did not read what I said, to retain OEM ride quality, OEM drivability, OEM handling and stability, OEM braking or better, OEM reliability and durability or better.

See, even if you are a "wheeler" you still spend most of the time on the road and while most of us just think only of ourselves I consider it dangerous to drive unstable, ill handling, vibrating hunks with poor braking on public roads with innocents all about.

And Jeeps do not have to ride rough, that is an excuse for not doing it right and if you cannot do it right then maybe just leave it alone because it is not as if a stock Jeep is incapable.
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Old 04-14-2015, 03:40 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 3X4X4 View Post

Or this:

Zone Offroad 4.25" Combo System J25/J26

But you will still needs ...... SYE, drive shaft.......
Now see, this goes against MOST of the posts I've read praising the Zone lift. The rest of the Zone fans do NOT install the SYE/CV because of the body/MML

What am I missing here?

I'm trying to decide on the right lift for my purpose (road queen) but I don't want to LIMIT myself to just LOOKING good I'd like to be capable of going wherever I'd like if the impulse hits me, without fear.

Initially I was going for the DPG old man EMU lift until I read so much about the Zone lift. Then I read a few posts on Pirate about the Zone and kind of backed off that. But given I'm a 42 yr old mechanical engineer, I'm not new to "ye ole intraweb" (GYSOT) nor the keyboard surfers on Pirate....so grain of salt if you will

The local JEEP medic shop recommended Iron Rock Off Roads lift, stating they had some really good components, but in reading on this forum....the ones with experience installing an IROR kit were actually saying the components seemed cheaper than the Zone lift.

It may just be a suck it up and get the Rubicon Express and do a SYE/CV

But damn that's a lotta jack for a lift!

Also contemplated the Rough Country X-series but the drawbacks there seem to be "ROUGH" is the keyword.

The problem is....how do you know who "the experts" are any more and whether someones praise for a product is simply them trying to justify their own purchases.
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Old 04-14-2015, 04:20 PM   #11
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Initially I was going for the DPG old man EMU lift
Stick with that. You will be happy. I've really enjoyed my DPG OME Ultimate lift on my 05 LJ.
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Old 04-14-2015, 05:14 PM   #12
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Now see, this goes against MOST of the posts I've read praising the Zone lift. The rest of the Zone fans do NOT install the SYE/CV because of the body/MML

What am I missing here?

I'm trying to decide on the right lift for my purpose (road queen) but I don't want to LIMIT myself to just LOOKING good I'd like to be capable of going wherever I'd like if the impulse hits me, without fear.

Initially I was going for the DPG old man EMU lift until I read so much about the Zone lift. Then I read a few posts on Pirate about the Zone and kind of backed off that. But given I'm a 42 yr old mechanical engineer, I'm not new to "ye ole intraweb" (GYSOT) nor the keyboard surfers on Pirate....so grain of salt if you will

The local JEEP medic shop recommended Iron Rock Off Roads lift, stating they had some really good components, but in reading on this forum....the ones with experience installing an IROR kit were actually saying the components seemed cheaper than the Zone lift.

It may just be a suck it up and get the Rubicon Express and do a SYE/CV

But damn that's a lotta jack for a lift!

Also contemplated the Rough Country X-series but the drawbacks there seem to be "ROUGH" is the keyword.

The problem is....how do you know who "the experts" are any more and whether someones praise for a product is simply them trying to justify their own purchases.
The Zone 4.25 combo lift does not need the SYE yada yada because it is a 3" suspension lift and utilizes the stock control arms. Drive line vibes are tamed with the 1" motor mount lift, and the rest of the lift (1.25") is a body lift. The Zone combo is a very well thought out entry level lift and for the price is probably the best bang for the buck lift going. My son has been running that kit for a few years now, and is very satisfied with it both on an off road.

If you have the extra dollars to spend, definitely take a look at OME, and I don't think you can do better than dealing with DPG.
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Old 04-15-2015, 03:32 AM   #13
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Now see, this goes against MOST of the posts I've read praising the Zone lift. The rest of the Zone fans do NOT install the SYE/CV because of the body/MML What am I missing here? I'm trying to decide on the right lift for my purpose (road queen) but I don't want to LIMIT myself to just LOOKING good I'd like to be capable of going wherever I'd like if the impulse hits me, without fear. Initially I was going for the DPG old man EMU lift until I read so much about the Zone lift. Then I read a few posts on Pirate about the Zone and kind of backed off that. But given I'm a 42 yr old mechanical engineer, I'm not new to "ye ole intraweb" (GYSOT) nor the keyboard surfers on Pirate....so grain of salt if you will The local JEEP medic shop recommended Iron Rock Off Roads lift, stating they had some really good components, but in reading on this forum....the ones with experience installing an IROR kit were actually saying the components seemed cheaper than the Zone lift. It may just be a suck it up and get the Rubicon Express and do a SYE/CV But damn that's a lotta jack for a lift! Also contemplated the Rough Country X-series but the drawbacks there seem to be "ROUGH" is the keyword. The problem is....how do you know who "the experts" are any more and whether someones praise for a product is simply them trying to justify their own purchases.
DO NOT go Rubicon Express. I went through 2 sets of control arm bushings in 6 months before switching to Savvy Control Arms with Johnny Joints. They say they have a new kind of bushing that doesnt tear but the first replacement set was supposedly those and they lasted 3 months. I do heavy wheeling but they should be able to last way more than that. The second set of replacement bushings lasted another 3 months. Also I could not get the Superflex Joints to open up to replace the innards. The ring that holds everything had seized to the control arm. Only parts I recommend from RE are their springs because they ride pretty well.
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Old 04-15-2015, 06:54 AM   #14
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I had an awful 3" body lift and ordered the Zone 4.25 combo a few weeks ago. Finally got it installed, too forever due to not being just a simple shock/spring swap but MAN. It rides so much better than before when I had worn out shocks and springs and it looks so much better.

Can't give any flex or off road ride notes yet but I will be doing that this weekend when I get the chance to hit some trails



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Old 04-15-2015, 07:12 AM   #15
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DO NOT go Rubicon Express...... Only parts I recommend from RE are their springs because they ride pretty well.
That's about the 5th time I've run across the same type of comments about RE

The same has been said about Rusty's and Rough country.

It's getting to be where I can BUILD my own lift from the onesie twosie components that ARE decent from each kit and have a perfect lift!

RE coils ($349.98)
OME Sport Series Shocks ($429.00)
DPG 2″ Extended Bump stops ($100*)
Brown Dog Motor Mounts ($82.99)
JKS “Quicker” Disconnects ($165)
Metalcloak FR/RR track bars ($368)
Zone 1-1/4" Body Lift Kit ($94.95)
Brake lines ($89)

$1678.82

What am I missing?
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:50 AM   #16
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Re coils paired up with ome shocks would ride like a horse cart haha. What size springs? What size tires? Adjustable control arms will run you over $1k for savvy/currie or metalcloak. Sye and tummy tuck?
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Old 04-15-2015, 08:15 AM   #17
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What size springs? What size tires? Sye and tummy tuck?
Me? (not trying to steal the OP's thunder here)

Not more than 3.5"...likely 3"
Not more than 33. Not until I re-gear/locker (currently 3.73 Dana44)
Eventually a SYE, yes....but hoping to forego that expense until AFTER lift/tire soreness dissipates from wallet
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Old 04-15-2015, 08:35 AM   #18
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Eh, op hasn't posted in a month. Savvy makes a nice 3 inch spring. I would look into their kit, it's a lift you would only need to buy once. If you went with the 3 inch and decided later you wanted more you would only need to upsize the springs, you'd have all the other components. Metalcloaks 3.5 inch kit is also no slouch.
These are both top of the line high end kits and prices reflect that. Nothing wrong with piecing together your own, just do a bunch of research. I have the benefit of friends who own jeeps and have ridden in re lifted, rockmen, clayton,procomp and currie, and hybrid lifts. I like savvy/currie.
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Old 04-15-2015, 08:45 AM   #19
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What am I missing?
Fixed it for you:

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Originally Posted by CasterTroy View Post
BDS 3" front coils and 2" rear coils (~$220.00)
Bilstein 5100 Series Shocks (~$280.00)
Cheapo body lift pucks for bumpstop extensions ($40)
Brown Dog Motor Mounts ($82.99)
JKS “Quicker” Disconnects ($165)
Metalcloak FR/RR track bars ($368)
Zone 1-1/4" Body Lift Kit ($94.95)
YJ Brake lines ($25)

$1276
Add cam bolts for the front ~ $25
Add a V8 ZJ tie-rod ~ $80
Run 31s and you'll be setup pretty nice without needing to regear, and you'll be ready for 33s when you do have the coin saved up for a regear (stage 2). After the regear, save up for a SYE/CV shaft & Savvy control arms and you'll be ready to increase travel & clearance: tummy tuck and/or more lift height (stage 3).
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Old 04-15-2015, 08:50 AM   #20
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Fixed it for you:
Indeed you DID

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Run 31s and you'll be setup pretty nice without needing to regear
Stock were 30's and that's what it's rolling on now....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrysler Group LLC Customer Assistance Build sheet request
AASS "Tire & Wheel Group - 30"
so I'm thinking 33's won't be too drastic (I COULD be wrong though....back in 85 I was "mistaken" so I'm due for it again I'm sure. Just hoping it's about JEEP stuff and not in discussion with my wife)
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Old 04-15-2015, 08:58 AM   #21
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so I'm thinking 33's won't be too drastic (I COULD be wrong though....back in 85 I was "mistaken" so I'm due for it again I'm sure. Just hoping it's about JEEP stuff and not in discussion with my wife)
looks like you have a 2002 with a manual?

you'll want 4.56 gears for 33s.

I suggested 31s because it will save you about $2000. Once you get the money for a regear, some lockers/new carriers, etc then move up to 33s. If you're worried about it looking funny, just leave the BL off until you're ready for 33s.
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Old 04-15-2015, 09:04 AM   #22
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If you're worried about it looking funny, just leave the BL off until you're ready for 33s.
Will the 1" MML cause issue with the fan or AC piping by leaving the BL off?
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Old 04-15-2015, 09:05 AM   #23
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Will the 1" MML cause issue with the fan or AC piping by leaving the BL off?
you'll need to move the fan shroud or simply leave the MML off. you may need to drop the t-case a little bit with some washers, if you get vibrations.
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Old 04-15-2015, 09:11 AM   #24
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Very helpful info

Great info in the signature as well. Hours of entertainment while on GO-TO meetings with boring architects rambling on about how we lowly engineers have to make all of our components "fit" into their perfect tribute to artistic skylines (what I happen to be doing currently)

Thanks for taking the time to educate an old man

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