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Old 08-07-2019, 10:34 AM
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4WD Newb Question

This YJ is the first 4x4 we've owned so this might be a really silly question... I parked on a slippery piece of ground recently and was quite excited when the back left wheel started spinning because I had a good reason to try 4H. I engaged 4H and the left rear wheel continued to slip / spin. I went to 4L and same thing. We got out by having someone stand on the bumper and put more weight on that wheel.

I was under the impression that going into 4x4 would lock the diffs. Is that not the case?

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Old 08-07-2019, 10:36 AM   #2
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Your rig has open differentials. If you want real 4wheel drive then you need to install front and rear lockers.
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Old 08-07-2019, 10:55 AM   #3
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Yes engaging the 4wd only starts to power the front axle. Lots of info on here about locking the front or rear axles though if you're looking to upgrade.
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Old 08-07-2019, 11:09 AM   #4
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Sounds like your front axle may not be engaging. Need to have it checked out.
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Old 08-07-2019, 11:27 AM
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Yeah, okay, that make sense now. Thanks everyone.
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Old 08-07-2019, 12:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krangler87 View Post
Sounds like your front axle may not be engaging. Need to have it checked out.
Check out the CAD (central axle disconnect) on your front axle. It's a vacuum controlled device that engages the "drive" function on your front axle.
It's a simple system that's easy to diagnose and repair.
The major parts ate the vacuum lines running from a switch on the transfer case to the CAD on the front axle.
The other major parts are the switch on the TC and the unit itself.
The guts of the unit are easily replaceable if that's what's wrong.

Find a post by Got it at last and look in his signature for a link to a service manual that fits the year of your Jeep. The manual will have a section on servicing the CAD (probably in the front axle section).

You won't need lockers until you get into more advanced off roading.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 08-07-2019, 03:59 PM   #7
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Manuals below. Agree with Krangler87 that you may not have front axle engaging. you should have most definitely felt the 4wd.

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Old 08-07-2019, 04:23 PM   #8
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If the CAD is operating you could have a misadjusted t-case linkage, or suffer from the ailment I did, a messed up t-case. To where 4HI didn't work at all and 4LO would work with the YJ on a lift but, when on the ground wouldn't. I have yet to open the t-case that was removed to see what the problem is.

Does your YJ have a thick cable or a vacuum lines running to it? Does it have a knob similar to the one in the picture mounted somewhere under the dash or on the trans tunnel? I ask because previous owners may have installed a cable operated CAD.
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Old 08-08-2019, 09:30 AM
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4WD Newb Question

Thanks everybody. Seriously, I have no idea what I would do without this forum! So there are two things I found last night:

1. I've lost a bolt in my transfer case linkage - which explains why I wasn't getting into 4H at all. I'm going to fix that today (just need to find a bolt with the right thread - any suggestions?). https://www.dropbox.com/sh/nurhvlquh...sgf7MLvaa?dl=0

2. I'm getting a really unhappy noise coming from the clutch bell housing. Clutch in - noise stops. Clutch out (very noisy in all gears AND neutral). https://www.dropbox.com/s/grl99gpra4...50228.MP4?dl=0
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Old 08-08-2019, 10:14 AM   #10
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Your number 2 sounds like it could be the throwout bearing. Time for a clutch kit maybe, I would recommend LuK or Sachs. Never ever have a Jeep flywheel resurfaced they are conical shaped and if it gets machined flat you'll just create more issues.


Your number 1 take that piece with you to the hardware store, you'll figure it out there
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'94 YJ 5sp 5.13, Super 35, HP30 w/Aussie, sitting on 33's, RE chromo drag link, 9500 Lb winch, 3" lift, 4x4 Posi Lock, it's a resto-mod in progress.
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Old 08-08-2019, 02:37 PM
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Thanks 12b. Yeah, everything seems to be pointing to the throwout bearing. This is my son's car and he's on a budget so I JUST want to replace the bear minimum. The clutch 'feels' fine in every other sense. Can I just replace the bearing? I know it make sense to do other stuff while we're in there but we need to just do the critical things now.
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Old 08-08-2019, 02:47 PM   #12
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Thanks 12b. Yeah, everything seems to be pointing to the throwout bearing. This is my son's car and he's on a budget so I JUST want to replace the bear minimum. The clutch 'feels' fine in every other sense. Can I just replace the bearing? I know it make sense to do other stuff while we're in there but we need to just do the critical things now.
A LuK clutch kit will run right at a $100 including the throwout bearing, clutch plate and pressure plate. To answer your qustion, sure you can just replace the throwout bearing. My question to you is why when you're in there already and the cost is minimal? I understand a budget, but doing the job once, over doing it twice accounts for something.

Your choice
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'94 YJ 5sp 5.13, Super 35, HP30 w/Aussie, sitting on 33's, RE chromo drag link, 9500 Lb winch, 3" lift, 4x4 Posi Lock, it's a resto-mod in progress.
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Old 08-08-2019, 03:05 PM
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Yeah, you're right. I've found the LUK set for $84 on Amazon. That's within the budget :-). Okay, cover me, I'm going in!
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Old 08-08-2019, 03:14 PM   #14
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Ok, also get some Emory cloth so you can de-glaze the flywheel when you install the new clutch. Do this as evenly and as lightly as possible. DO NOT have the flywheel turned! it is conical for a reason. If you do turn it, if it's not done right you will end up with more issues. Flywheels are inexpensive also if you can pick up a new one of those too that way you don't even have to worry about it.
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'94 YJ 5sp 5.13, Super 35, HP30 w/Aussie, sitting on 33's, RE chromo drag link, 9500 Lb winch, 3" lift, 4x4 Posi Lock, it's a resto-mod in progress.
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Old 08-08-2019, 03:30 PM
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Got it. Thank you! I'm feeling a little intimidated by the idea of 'dropping the transmission'. Can you recommend any step-by-step guides?
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Old 08-08-2019, 03:40 PM   #16
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Watch this Video....
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Old 08-08-2019, 04:31 PM   #17
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The FSM spells it out in a step by step procedure
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Old 08-10-2019, 08:10 AM   #18
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Hold up.... the throwout bearing would likely still make noise w the clutch depressed.... your noise may not be clutch related...

I suggest getting someone with experience to listen to ot before tearing it apart.... you wouldn't want to replace the wrong thing.
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Old 08-10-2019, 09:35 AM   #19
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Hold up.... the throwout bearing would likely still make noise w the clutch depressed.... your noise may not be clutch related...

I suggest getting someone with experience to listen to ot before tearing it apart.... you wouldn't want to replace the wrong thing.
Yup, sounds more like the trans input shaft bearing doesn't it?
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Old 08-10-2019, 11:51 AM   #20
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Yup, sounds more like the trans input shaft bearing doesn't it?
Yup....
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Old 08-13-2019, 08:52 AM
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LOL - well, Gottagofast, I think I should be the one using that tag because before I saw your post I was under the blessed thing pulling it all apart. Patience has always been my issue... So:

1. I think you're exactly right because we changed the clutch (including pilot bearing, throwout bearing and flywheel). The noise is EXACTLY the same. So I'm a little disappointed but it was my first tranny drop so we learned a hell of a lot (and we have a new clutch)... I'm trying to look on the bright side!!

2. We have a new issue. As always, she starts beautifully when cold, but now runs for a minute and then turns off. Doesn't stall. Literally sounds like it's been shut off. I checked the CPS (across B/C poles) and got no continuity, so that seems okay. Any other ideas?
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:06 AM   #22
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Check fuel, and spark...

Fuel pressure, power to coil, pulsed ground signal at coil.
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:10 AM   #23
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Btw, my screen name dates back almost 25 years... I had a suzuki lt500r and was signing up on an atv racing forum....
I'm not nearly as fast as I used to be lol!!!
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TJ dash speakers that actually rock! Kicker sub and amp in center console
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:43 AM
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I know I have spark (because it starts cold). And I know I have fuel (when it's cold). But as soon as it warm up even a little bit (1-2 mins) it shuts off. Runs really smooth until then - no issues idling, etc. Then it won't start until it's completely cold again.
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Old 08-13-2019, 11:17 AM   #25
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I understood that... no reason in the world to test anything when it's running great....
Once it gets warm and dies is when you need to test....
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Old 08-13-2019, 02:06 PM
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Yeah, fair enough. I did test the Crank Position Sensor after it was warm and it was still no resistance between B&C. I guess today it's dig deeper into coil, etc. Thanks Gottagofast.
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Old 08-13-2019, 02:52 PM   #27
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I know I have spark (because it starts cold). And I know I have fuel (when it's cold). But as soon as it warm up even a little bit (1-2 mins) it shuts off. Runs really smooth until then - no issues idling, etc. Then it won't start until it's completely cold again.
Fuel filter? Cranking after sitting and running for a short time is a classic fuel filter symptom.

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Old 08-13-2019, 09:53 PM
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Crank Position Sensor. Made sense because we messed with it during the clutch replacement. New CPS and she’s running beautifully again.

Input Shaft Bearing is NOISY!! Is there any way to change it without rebuilding the whole transmission?


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Old 08-13-2019, 09:56 PM   #29
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Crank Position Sensor. Made sense because we messed with it during the clutch replacement. New CPS and she’s running beautifully again.

Input Shaft Bearing is NOISY!! Is there any way to change it without rebuilding the whole transmission?


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Glad you found and fixed it.

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Old 08-14-2019, 01:02 AM   #30
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Crank Position Sensor. Made sense because we messed with it during the clutch replacement. New CPS and she’s running beautifully again.

Input Shaft Bearing is NOISY!! Is there any way to change it without rebuilding the whole transmission?


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Not really no.... it may well not be that bearing you're hearing anyhow

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