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Old 09-10-2019, 11:03 AM
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AX5 internal clutch slave to external swap

OK, I'm on the path now where I'm going to swap parts to convert my '91 AX5 with internal clutch slave to 94-95 YT with external slave. I also understand I can use parts from early TJ's also? Is there anyone out there who has done this swap that can help me with y list of parts. Currently, in addition to getting the pre-bled master/slave combo and a clutch kit for a '94 YJ, I also know I'll need:
Front input bearing retainer
Clutch fork
Bellhousing
Clutch pivot
Release bearing spring
Clutch bearing

This list was compiled from other internet sources, so if you've done the swap, please let me know what else I may need and/or if this list has parts that I may not need.

Thank you all

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Old 09-12-2019, 12:27 AM   #2
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The easiest way to compile everything necessary when you are unfamiliar with the swap, is to locate a donor vehicle either through a private party or used Jeep dismantler. Obviously ‘94-‘95 YJ’s, as you state, as well as 2.5 TJ’s through and including ‘02.

You have pretty much everything listed, although I am assuming by “release bearing spring” you are referring to the clutch fork retaining spring, and “clutch bearing” is a reference to throwout (release) bearing.

You will need the bellhousing, front bearing retainer, clutch fork and retainer spring (you will want to verify condition of the pivot ball stud and replace if necessary). You have already mentioned the hydraulics, and the throwout bearing will come with the pressure plate and disc in the kit you source. All of the hardware is the same, just be sure if you are piecing it together that the bellhousing has the studs for the slave. They are often missing when disassembled as the locknuts pull the studs out and the get lost in the shuffle.

Pictured is a recent AX-15 kit I assembled. Although the bellhousing and retainer differ from the AX-5 versions you need, the content is the same. Pic shows everything less the clutch kit.
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Old 09-12-2019, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalC101CJYJTJ View Post
The easiest way to compile everything necessary when you are unfamiliar with the swap, is to locate a donor vehicle either through a private party or used Jeep dismantler. Obviously ‘94-‘95 YJ’s, as you state, as well as 2.5 TJ’s through and including ‘02.

You have pretty much everything listed, although I am assuming by “release bearing spring” you are referring to the clutch fork retaining spring, and “clutch bearing” is a reference to throwout (release) bearing.

You will need the bellhousing, front bearing retainer, clutch fork and retainer spring (you will want to verify condition of the pivot ball stud and replace if necessary). You have already mentioned the hydraulics, and the throwout bearing will come with the pressure plate and disc in the kit you source. All of the hardware is the same, just be sure if you are piecing it together that the bellhousing has the studs for the slave. They are often missing when disassembled as the locknuts pull the studs out and the get lost in the shuffle.

Pictured is a recent AX-15 kit I assembled. Although the bellhousing and retainer differ from the AX-5 versions you need, the content is the same. Pic shows everything less the clutch kit.
Thanks very much. I was copying listed parts from some other swap threads I saw so I think you're correct about the clutch bearing being the throwout bearing and the release bearing spring being the small spring clip that holds the fork to the ball. I was able to source the parts yesterday for $80?! and got everything I needed/all the parts you mentioned. Never having done this before, I still have a couple of questions I'm hoping you may be able to answer:
Is there a gasket for the front bearing retainer where it bolts to the front of the gearbox, or is this a permatex situation?
Do you know the torque specs for the bearing retainer to gearbox bolts?
The clutch kits I've looked at all have a release bearing with two small metal clips? I'm guessing these clip to the fork in some fashion?
Sorry if these are noob questions, but I want to do it correctly the first time. Thanks again for your help. I'll post a pic with my sourced parts...
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Old 09-12-2019, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalC101CJYJTJ View Post
The easiest way to compile everything necessary when you are unfamiliar with the swap, is to locate a donor vehicle either through a private party or used Jeep dismantler. Obviously ‘94-‘95 YJ’s, as you state, as well as 2.5 TJ’s through and including ‘02.

You have pretty much everything listed, although I am assuming by “release bearing spring” you are referring to the clutch fork retaining spring, and “clutch bearing” is a reference to throwout (release) bearing.

You will need the bellhousing, front bearing retainer, clutch fork and retainer spring (you will want to verify condition of the pivot ball stud and replace if necessary). You have already mentioned the hydraulics, and the throwout bearing will come with the pressure plate and disc in the kit you source. All of the hardware is the same, just be sure if you are piecing it together that the bellhousing has the studs for the slave. They are often missing when disassembled as the locknuts pull the studs out and the get lost in the shuffle.

Pictured is a recent AX-15 kit I assembled. Although the bellhousing and retainer differ from the AX-5 versions you need, the content is the same. Pic shows everything less the clutch kit.
Nevermind on the question regarding the spring clips on the throwout as I just saw how they attach to the fork. My bellhousing does not have the studs for the slave, do you know what the thread/pitchcount might be? For the bearing retainer, blue loctite or just torqued to spec? Rock Auto is out of stock for the kit including the flywheel so I'm going to have to buy separate FW, clutch kit and hydraulics. Is one brans considered better than any of the others? They seem to push the LUK, but others talk about Valeo and Sachs as being good too. I'm thinking I should try to keep the same manufacturer across the board...thanks again.
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Old 09-12-2019, 09:31 AM
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Pic of my $80 parts grab

Everything is structurally sounds but will need a couple hours of cleanup...
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Old 09-12-2019, 11:57 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Highlander1732 View Post
Nevermind on the question regarding the spring clips on the throwout as I just saw how they attach to the fork. My bellhousing does not have the studs for the slave, do you know what the thread/pitchcount might be? For the bearing retainer, blue loctite or just torqued to spec? Rock Auto is out of stock for the kit including the flywheel so I'm going to have to buy separate FW, clutch kit and hydraulics. Is one brans considered better than any of the others? They seem to push the LUK, but others talk about Valeo and Sachs as being good too. I'm thinking I should try to keep the same manufacturer across the board...thanks again.
You did good for $80!

The front bearing retainer hardware gets torqued to 12 ft. lbs. No locktite necessary, I have never seen one rattle out. If you are paranoid and vibration is a factor, use blue, do not use red. Use an appropriate amount of quality RTV silicone such as Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Grey on the gasket sealing surface (no gasket). Allow adequate time after application for it to “skin” (usually 2-5 minutes) prior to assembly.

I use Permatex Right Stuff in the Cheez-Whiz style can, as it goes off a little quicker and cures a whole lot faster. Cost can be prohibitive if you aren’t doing a bunch of stuff though.

As long as it has not been butchered, the studs are 5/16-18x1.75 with a small shoulder separating the threaded portions as a stop so it doesn’t just thread continuously into the aluminum of the bellhousing.

If you can’t find 5/16-18 on both ends, 5/16-24 on the exposed end will work, just make sure you get the appropriate nuts.

I have used all of the above. Luk clutches are nice, Sachs are definitely quality, and I prefer the current rendition of Sachs hydraulics.

FYI, sometimes it is better to mix and match manufacturers, it is the quality of each component that matters.
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‘92 YJ, 4.0, AX15, Jeep Air, Mastercrafts, Bed Rug, Tuffy Tub Enclosure/Console/Hood Lock, Momo Prototipo, RE 4.5”, Bilstein’s, AA SYE, J.E. Reel Driveshaft, JBA header, Dana 44/30, 4.56’s, E-Locker, M.O.R.E. Steering Box Brace, Metalcloak Fenders, Fuel Anza’s, BFG 35” KO2’s, White Knuckle Rock Sliders, Garvin Bumpers & Spare Tire Mount, Tinted Bestop and Sliders, Warn 9.5ti, Old School KC’s, Hella H4’s, Quadratec LED tails, more....
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Old 09-13-2019, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalC101CJYJTJ View Post
You did good for $80!

The front bearing retainer hardware gets torqued to 12 ft. lbs. No locktite necessary, I have never seen one rattle out. If you are paranoid and vibration is a factor, use blue, do not use red. Use an appropriate amount of quality RTV silicone such as Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Grey on the gasket sealing surface (no gasket). Allow adequate time after application for it to “skin” (usually 2-5 minutes) prior to assembly.

I use Permatex Right Stuff in the Cheez-Whiz style can, as it goes off a little quicker and cures a whole lot faster. Cost can be prohibitive if you aren’t doing a bunch of stuff though.

As long as it has not been butchered, the studs are 5/16-18x1.75 with a small shoulder separating the threaded portions as a stop so it doesn’t just thread continuously into the aluminum of the bellhousing.

If you can’t find 5/16-18 on both ends, 5/16-24 on the exposed end will work, just make sure you get the appropriate nuts.

I have used all of the above. Luk clutches are nice, Sachs are definitely quality, and I prefer the current rendition of Sachs hydraulics.

FYI, sometimes it is better to mix and match manufacturers, it is the quality of each component that matters.
Great information. This stuff is why forums are awesome. Going to get started this weekend and will hopefully have it apart and back together in the next week or so, but I know how these things bleed so I'll probably replace the transfer case seals, repaint the skid plate, dress the frame a little, replace u joints. Maybe even a rear main unless it's nice and dry. Wish me luck -lol

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