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Old 09-14-2012, 02:19 PM
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Dana 35 Longer Wheel Studs

I'm not having much luck searching the message boards or internet for information on longer wheel studs for my '91 YJ with the Dana 35C rear end. I'm running Weld Super Single 15x8 wheels and the stock rear studs only provide a few turns of thread exposure. I haven't had any issues as-is, however, its a problem that I want to solve. I see many others with the same issue so I'd like to start this thread to be the definitive source for options and solutions since it doesn't exist elsewhere.

The stock wheel stud specs are:
Mopar part number: 83503053
Thread: 1/2-20
Overall length: 1-15/32" or 1.46875"
Knurl diameter: .618"
Shoulder or Knurl length: 31/64" or .484375"
Stud type: Serrated press-in stud
Alt OE part numbers: Dorman 97000 or 610-364; Omix-Ada 16714.08 or 83503053

I've got the stock axle and brake setup and I'm not looking to change that. What I'm looking for is longer wheel studs with the same stock spec except for longer overall length, say 2" to 2-1/2" or so.

I've seen one suggestion that recommends Dorman 610-449 but those are .627" knurl diameter and admittedly tough to get on and the shoulder/knurl length is longer @ 11/16" or .6875" so I'm wondering if that causes a problem with the drums or seating of the wheel since the shoulder/knurl diameter is larger (.627") than the stud and would stick out of the drum more being longer. I'm sure some compromise to the stock specs would be ok, like .620" knurl diameter or 1/2" shoulder/knurl length, so let us know your thoughts, suggestions, or experience.

I've also emailed Dorman directly asking them to cross-reference the stock stud specs and provide a suitable longer alternative, but nothing back from them yet.

Please refrain from providing useless respones like: "Get a new axle - The Dana 35C is a piece of junk" or "Get wheels that fit the stock studs" since I'm happy with my setup as-is. I'm just looking for a solution for longer wheel studs. Wheel spacers won't work either since the wheel offset is correct with these Weld wheels and spacers would compromise that.

Thanks

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Old 09-14-2012, 02:33 PM   #2
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What I did for mine was remove one of the wheel studs and just took it to my local parts store. Couple of minutes looking through their wheel studs and I found one that would work. Might try that. Or just get another axle cause the D35 is a POS
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:55 PM
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Haha! Thanks Rykemc. I will also try to go down to the local parts stores and machine shops with the specs and see what I can find. I don't want to take any of them off unless I have a replacement so I'm trying to get a definative part number and source someone has had success with. There is also a specialy nut and bolt shop I'll try too and post what I find. Thanks for the reply.


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Originally Posted by rykemc View Post
What I did for mine was remove one of the wheel studs and just took it to my local parts store. Couple of minutes looking through their wheel studs and I found one that would work. Might try that. Or just get another axle cause the D35 is a POS
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:24 PM   #4
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Old 09-16-2012, 12:24 PM
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These look like a possible option. Based on the specs they'd be .343" longer which helps some. The shoulder/knurl length is .1094" shorter which might be too short for the drums to sit on.
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Old 10-18-2012, 04:25 PM
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Here's what I'm going with:

Dorman: 610-379
Thread: 1/2-20 [same as stock]
Overall length: 1-15/16" or 1.9375" [+0.46875" or +15/32" to stock]
Knurl diameter: .620" [+0.002" to stock]
Shoulder or Knurl length: 19/32" or 0.59375" [+0.109375" or +7/64" to stock]
Stud type: Serrated press-in stud [same as stock]

These will give me an add'l almost half inch which will certainly help. The knurl diameter is +0.002" but that shouldn't be a problem. I've read where others have jammed a 0.627" stud in which is +0.009" so I'm sure I'll be fine between the wear/rust and impact of taking the original ones off. I think the drums will fit over them just fine as well. The add'l shoulder length of +0.1094" was a concern, but I verified the wheel holes are large enough to fit the knurl diameter (and plenty of room to spare) so they won't effect the installation or seating of the wheels. There will just be a bit more unthreaded portion of the stud coming through the drums which I'll never reach with my lug nuts.

When I get a chance to do this job, I'll post pics before and after to show the impact in case anyone in the future has the same problem. Hopefully I won't have any issues to speak of!
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Old 10-18-2012, 04:54 PM   #7
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pull one and take it to napa
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by harleydragon View Post
pull one and take it to napa
No problem. I ordered the ones I need. I didn't want to pull one and try to match it up by sight or get "these should work" alternatives. I needed the specs. I actually got a new stock one (so I didn't have to remove one) to compare to, but I can't tell the difference between .618" and .627" and not all the packages and bins in the auto stores have all the specs on them.

Anyway, just posting what I'm finding in case its useful for others.
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Old 05-15-2015, 08:32 AM   #9
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I'm having the same problem with short wheel studs. I got some nice 16" rims for a good price with very low mileage tires already mounted but can only get a few turns with the lug nuts. I tried NAPA, but the studs they ordered after attempting to match my originals, didn't fit. The knurl was too fat on the front (disc brakes) and the shoulder was too fat for the rear (hubs). It's a 93 with Dana 30/35. Do you have a part# that would work?
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by KenWheeler View Post
I'm having the same problem with short wheel studs. I got some nice 16" rims for a good price with very low mileage tires already mounted but can only get a few turns with the lug nuts. I tried NAPA, but the studs they ordered after attempting to match my originals, didn't fit. The knurl was too fat on the front (disc brakes) and the shoulder was too fat for the rear (hubs). It's a 93 with Dana 30/35. Do you have a part# that would work?
Part number and detailed specs on the ones I used is above. They are the Dorman 610-379. I couldn't use ones with any longer shoulder length since the tapered lug nut would bottom out before it got tight on the wheel. **These are for the rear (Dana 35C) only. The fronts are different and fine for my wheels so they are still stock.
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Old 10-20-2015, 09:49 PM   #11
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I can confirm that the Dorman 610-379 wheel studs work in the D35 rear axle of my 93 Jeep YJ and give almost a half an inch extra lentgh.

Just hammer out the old ones, clean the hole, put the new studs in, and use a spacer on the outside and tighten the lug nut to pull them through until they are flush on the back.
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Old 04-28-2018, 10:16 PM   #12
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Bringing this post back from the dead since I'm looking for the same thing. I have aftermarket wheels (that came on the Jeep) and the studs only go halfway through the lug nuts. I got the specs on the stock studs today at Napa, so I'll see if these you found fit my wheels as well.

Thanks!
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Old 08-04-2018, 08:13 AM   #13
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Has this been an issue only with the rear studs on the 35 axle?
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Old 08-04-2018, 08:53 AM   #14
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Somewhere in the back of my head is the idea that MOPAR has longer studs for YJs with alloy wheels. I checked my 1987 parts catalog and didn't find any reference to longer studs. Perhaps the longer studs are listed in a later model parts catalog.

For me, I'd simply pop out an old stud and head to NAPA with the old stud and a Vernier to match up a dozen new studs or order a dozen of the Dorman 610-379.
Why a dozen instead of 10 you ask? That's just what I do to save a second trip into town if somehow I bugger up one of the new studs. I have a box full of spare hardware because I typically buy more than I actually need and the extra hardware has come in handy more than once.

The answer to hm2001tj's question is.....It can be an issue on either axle when converting to alloy wheels from steel wheels.
I wouldn't drive any vehicle if I knew the lug nut wasn't fully engaged on the stud.

OP (caposto back in 2012), posted that his lug nuts "only provide a few turns of thread exposure". If he means that the lug nut exposes a few threads when it's fully seated, he's worrying needlessly. If he means that the lug nut only engages the stud with a few threads, then driving the vehicle in that condition is foolish and extremely dangerous.
His last post was in November 2017, so he might still be around, it seems he doesn't post a lot. If he reads this perhaps he might clarify his statement.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 08-05-2018, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckymac View Post
...the lug nut only engages the stud with a few threads, then driving the vehicle in that condition is foolish and extremely dangerous.

This is what I meant. Yes, dangerous.

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