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Old 10-07-2019, 07:13 AM
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Leak Near Universal Joint

I have a leak somewhere from the transfer case or yolk (I believe) but I'm kind stuck on where to start and was hoping to get a bit of direction here. I have a drip forming on my UV joint. I know the UV joint itself isn't leaking but something before it or leading up to it is. The strange thing is the shaft leading up to it from the TC is dry. You can see where it hits the exahust as I'm driving. It's slow, but I'm hoping to fix it before it becomes more of an issue. Any thoughts on where to start here? How difficult of a fix could this be? I'm fairly handy, but not a mechanic by any means.

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Old 10-07-2019, 08:17 AM   #2
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I have the same issue. I replaced the seal and it still leaked. I even replaced the tailshaft housing of the TC so that I'd have a new seal and be sure the housing wasn't damaged. It still leaked. One poster suggested rotating the rear U-joint in the differential yoke to see if the driveshaft was indexed improperly and might be vibrating, thus causing the leak. It still leaks. Both of my rear driveshaft U-joints are solid.

I've considered buying a used front yoke for the rear driveshaft and having the snout part of it chromed (just the snout, not the part that holds the U-joint). I figured the couple thousandths of an inch that the chrome adds to the snout will make the snout fit snugger into the tailshaft bushing. When I slip the loose driveshaft into the tailshaft, the snout currently feels sloppy in the bushing. The chrome might take up the slack.

Other posters might have a proven cure.

Good Luck, L.M.

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Old 10-08-2019, 08:32 PM   #3
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I recently had to get into the input shaft on my trans case and replaced all the seals while I was in there. If you can spin a wrench and and have a little patience, Its a very simple design and easy to disassemble and put back together.

I have an SYE and no tailhousing so I have not taken one like yours apart, but I don't believe that you have to take anything more off than the tailhousing to replace the seal. Watch a few different videos on youtube on how it's done, everybody has a little to ad, and some to take away from, so by the time you watch a few it will be obvious as to what works best for you.

A lot of guys have different methods to pull and replace the seals in the housing, if you haven't done a bunch in the past I would recommend renting a seal puller from your local auto parts store rather than whatever is laying around to punch in and punch out the old seals. Just remember to grease them good and polish any rust buildup on the yolk before re-installing.
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Old 10-10-2019, 09:49 AM   #4
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You can replace the seal. I did mine while I was having the transmission rebuilt. Used a seal puller to take the old one out. Then I heated a piece of 2" PVC and shoved it over a wine bottle to expand it to the right size to use to install the seal. beat the seal in with the PVC and a rubber mallet.

Mine is not currently leaking.
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Old 10-11-2019, 01:51 AM   #5
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Luckymac and I have about the same experience. You don't need to take the tcase apart to replace the seal. You just pull it out and tap a new one in. My solution is an eventual SYE. The under side of the tub is already well oiled with ATF from it, and it doesn't leak so much you need to worry about burning up your t case.
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Old 10-11-2019, 11:49 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yjbestj View Post
Luckymac and I have about the same experience. You don't need to take the tcase apart to replace the seal. You just pull it out and tap a new one in. My solution is an eventual SYE. The under side of the tub is already well oiled with ATF from it, and it doesn't leak so much you need to worry about burning up your t case.
I'm not too worried about the slight leak. I top off the TC as part of my regular oil/filter change and service. It never takes very much.
My current TC is a NP207 and due for an upgrade to NP231 once I collect all the parts for a BA10 to a AX15 swap.
I have the AX15 and a basket case NP231 that has a hack & tap. I don't need a SYE because I don't have a spring lift.
I'm debating keeping the hack & tap and buying a new driveshaft so that if I damage a rear driveshaft, I can remove the damaged driveshaft, drive home in 4X without loosing all the TC fluid. If I get rid of the hack & tap I'll still have to buy a mainshaft for the TC.

Everything works well enough now so I have time to continue looking for the necessary used parts to do a internal to external clutch slave cylinder conversion.

Good Luck, L.M.

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"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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