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Old 07-03-2015, 11:19 AM
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Finally got my manual axle disconnect installed, now I need to get dirty. Happy 4th jeeperz.

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Old 07-03-2015, 01:07 PM   #2
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I bought a 95 YJ a few weeks ago and it has this. Why is it better than just shifting the lever?

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Old 07-03-2015, 02:06 PM   #3
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I bought a 95 YJ a few weeks ago and it has this. Why is it better than just shifting the lever?
If the cad is not working. You'll need the posi lock to slide the collar over to engage the front axle


The other method is a 1 piece shaft from a ZJ, XJ, or tj. Which is what I did
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Old 07-03-2015, 02:33 PM
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This is much better, because the factory assembly is ran by vacuum. The diaphragm's don't last and are notorious for going out. With one of these, you will know your 4wd will work when you want it to.
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Old 07-03-2015, 02:38 PM   #5
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Good deal. My 4 wheel drive does work very well indeed.
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Old 07-03-2015, 02:43 PM
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I hope to get muddy this weekend. Hope you have fun as well.
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Old 07-03-2015, 04:13 PM   #7
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i think i would take out a knee cap on that getting in
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Old 07-03-2015, 04:13 PM   #8
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I bought a 95 YJ a few weeks ago and it has this. Why is it better than just shifting the lever?
Well, its not, really. Looking at the above pic, I can add hitting that knob with ones knee to the list of cons.

Along with locking hubs, the CAD system was an attempt to increase gas mileage in the 70s and 80s and was eliminated eventually. So if it irritates you, the solid axle is the way to eliminate it.

The so called "posi"lock is not an upgrade, its more of a gimmicky work around.

To me, its like your horn not working. You cant see how its components function and it looks like too much hassle so you just rewire it to that big yellow push button you mount on the dash.

The vacuum CAD systems worked invisibly for 20+ years and 200K miles before neglect or ignorance took its toll.

While the posi lock requires you to either push or pull to engage and hope the friction lock holds it where you need it, the vacuum system will engage or disengage with no input from you and holds position positively with more force than the friction lock or your hand can provide.

The CAD system is easy to fix. Cheap, too.

Ive serviced my CADs and have never had an issue afterwords

The vacuum system is simplest to use, powerful, and robust. You just have to service the damned thing!

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Old 07-03-2015, 05:39 PM
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Thanks for the opinion. But if one developed a vacuum leak on the trail, one can lose 4wd capabilities. And hitting it with your knee will not unlock it. You have to press the button and push or pull. Every single person I've talked too on the trail that has one of these. Have had nothing but praise. And no problems. I feel better knowing that sticks and or branches won't pull on vacuum lines at the axle.
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:54 PM   #10
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Pics of the install underneath?
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:16 PM   #11
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I agree the vacuum cad system is a poor design , I have a Posi-Lock and have no issues with it. My knee never gets close to it and when you lock it in it stays in. The vacuum system can be problematic with high mileage vehicles with lower vacuum readings and brittle vacuum lines. As far as gimmick goes I feel that is the way they should have built it in the first place or equipped it with locking hubs.
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:17 PM   #12
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Being new to this jeep thing so what you are saying when you shift into 4 wheel drive vacuum causes the fork to lock the front axles to ensure both front wheels are locked together . So if i installed the cable version when I shift the shifter into 4 wheel drive I engage cable and it locks or posi the axles the same way
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:19 PM   #13
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i think i would take out a knee cap on that getting in
Mine is mounted in the center of the dash, just above the shifters. It looks like this one would get in the way while I was getting in or out. Mine is lifted with no kind of step, I already have a tough enough time getting in it.
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Old 07-04-2015, 03:36 AM   #14
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Being new to this jeep thing so what you are saying when you shift into 4 wheel drive vacuum causes the fork to lock the front axles to ensure both front wheels are locked together . So if i installed the cable version when I shift the shifter into 4 wheel drive I engage cable and it locks or posi the axles the same way
The posi lock is not a locking differential. Its just a manual cable actuation of the Central Axle Disconnect (CAD).
There is a persistent myth about the automatic vacuum actuation being a weak or unreliable system and the posi lok is touted as the fix.

In reality the posi lock systems have weaknesses, but they get subjected to choice-supportive bias.



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Old 07-04-2015, 12:01 PM
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To be fair, every system has flaws. But what it's about, is the least amount of trouble when your on the trail. In alot of people's opinions the cable is a better way to go. And others say there is nothing wrong with the vacuum switch. Just remember to go with what YOU think is best for you and your jeep. There will always be naysayers, but I prefer the cable.
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:08 PM   #16
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How difficult was the install? I bought the posi-lock a couple of years ago in case my CAD failed and it's been sitting on my work bench still waiting
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:11 PM   #17
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In theory, couldn't you do the TJ axel swap, and then add some manual hubs to achieve the best of both worlds? Free spinning in front when in 2wd, and no CAD at all?

Or are manual hubs for these particular front axles non-existent in the aftermarket world?
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Old 07-06-2015, 02:28 PM   #18
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I'd sooner cover the hole with a plate and install a 1 piece shaft... make it like the old CJs were.

All my old 4x4s had Warn Hubs but I'd engage them in the fall and free them in the spring. they claimed the disconnect gave better gas mileage but I could never measure a difference. On a YJ I see no need to disconnect. Even if it is a DD.
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:24 PM   #19
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On a YJ I see no need to disconnect. Even if it is a DD.
A good number of those who upgrade to one piece axle reported that the unbalanced front driveshaft vibrates now that its turning full time.
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:44 PM   #20
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so get it balanced

even if it only vibrates while off roading anything mechanical out of balance eventually explodes.

but in 25 years of driving F250s I never experienced a driveshaft vibration.
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:55 PM
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Install was a breeze, just had to drill one hole through the firewall for the cable. Came with everything, but keep your old bolts, or get new ones. As it did not come with new bolts. Re-use the original fork, or you can get an upgraded fork. I have yet to put it too the test, but this weekend is my birthday. And i plan on going too bundy hill in Michigan. So I'll let y'all know how it holds up.
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:59 PM   #22
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Definitely an improvement over the vacuum system.
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:05 PM
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Well I finally got out to Bundy hill ORV park. And it performed flawlessly. No issues at all. I do like the cable.
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:16 PM   #24
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I personally went with the TJ axle swap. Fairly easy to do (a little more work than the posi cable) but it also allows you to go with beefier U-joints (5-760x).

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Old 07-09-2015, 01:58 PM   #25
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I personally went with the TJ axle swap. Fairly easy to do (a little more work than the posi cable) but it also allows you to go with beefier U-joints (5-760x).

Did you swap out the driver side also?
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Old 07-09-2015, 03:19 PM   #26
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Working with manual steering (NO POWER), the TJ mod would make it not fun. I had 4x4 switch failure so CAD stayed locked for a bit. Steering was very difficult. I imagine that is what TJ mod would feel like in my case. That's where I though WARN manual hubs could make it doable.
Just thinking out loud.
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:23 PM   #27
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That's where I though WARN manual hubs could make it doable.
Just thinking out loud.
The design of the unit bearing hubs make this impossible. You need to retrofit earlier cj knuckles/hubs and axles to mount old school warn hubs. They make kits for the trucks. $$$$$
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:16 PM   #28
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Did you swap out the driver side also?
Yes sir, got a great deal from a buddy and picked up both shafts for $50.
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:17 PM   #29
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Working with manual steering (NO POWER), the TJ mod would make it not fun. I had 4x4 switch failure so CAD stayed locked for a bit. Steering was very difficult. I imagine that is what TJ mod would feel like in my case. That's where I though WARN manual hubs could make it doable.
Just thinking out loud.
Not sure why that would matter? It's still an open diff....
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Old 07-10-2015, 07:48 PM   #30
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The design of the unit bearing hubs make this impossible. You need to retrofit earlier cj knuckles/hubs and axles to mount old school warn hubs. They make kits for the trucks. $$$$$
There was a conversion kit available to put lock out hubs on a YJ but it was about $1400 , early CJs didn't use D-30 front axle so I doubt knuckles and hubs would fit without major modification.

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