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Old 01-09-2018, 05:42 PM
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My Rampage Soft top doors don't close right to prevent water from leaking in (PICS)

I recently bought a "Rampage Jeep 68215 Denim Black Complete Replacement Soft Top with Frame and Hardware"


and the doors dont close straight ever since the day of installation. Followed everything to the T. Are my doors incorrectly aligned. Are my hinges off ? Why arent my doors shutting straight ?

PICS:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ocQAfGip1YOHTcrk1

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Old 01-09-2018, 06:04 PM   #2
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Looks like your door is just sagging. Could probably adjust the hinges. Bottom one a little to the rear and top one a little to the front of the jeep.

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Old 01-09-2018, 06:20 PM   #3
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First replace all your busted door inserts where the frame goes in your half doors. Then just bend the frame till it fits.
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Old 01-09-2018, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Ov yj View Post
First replace all your busted door inserts where the frame goes in your half doors. Then just bend the frame till it fits.
I'll give it a shot. By frame inserts are you referring to the triangle like flaps that are attached to my door via torx screws or are you referring to the hinges that actually hold the triangle flaps ?
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Old 01-09-2018, 07:36 PM   #5
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They are wire and they bend, that's how you make them fit.
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Old 01-09-2018, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Ov yj View Post
They are wire and they bend, that's how you make them fit.
the flaps or the actual door ?
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Old 01-09-2018, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outlaw87 View Post
Looks like your door is just sagging. Could probably adjust the hinges. Bottom one a little to the rear and top one a little to the front of the jeep.

this seems doeable. do i just take the doors off and hit the hinges with a hammer ?
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Old 01-09-2018, 08:41 PM   #8
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Nate, did you ever lower the windshield?
The pick of the door upper looks to be incorrect windshield rake.
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Old 01-09-2018, 09:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natewill18 View Post

the flaps or the actual door ?
The wire upper door frame. If your half door closes properly, and your windshield frame is in place, then you bend the frame to fit the opening.
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Old 01-09-2018, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ov yj View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by natewill18 View Post

the flaps or the actual door ?
The wire upper door frame. If your half door closes properly, and your windshield frame is in place, then you bend the frame to fit the opening.
bend the rampage upper windshield frame wire ??
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Old 01-09-2018, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Raoul View Post
Nate, did you ever lower the windshield?
The pick of the door upper looks to be incorrect windshield rake.

Yea it was easy to just stick in the upper door frame in my half door. It does look incorrect huh ?
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Old 01-09-2018, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Raoul View Post
Nate, did you ever lower the windshield?
The pick of the door upper looks to be incorrect windshield rake.

Im kinda confused on what you're referring to. My upper half door skin came pre assembled in my soft top kit. It had 3 prongs at the bottom. I stuck them in my lower door halfs. That was it lol
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Old 01-09-2018, 10:05 PM   #13
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The pic at your outside mirror looks like it fits.
Then the upper door starts to run crooked, getting about 1.5" at the top.
If that windshield was pulled back 1.5" looks like it would be a good fit.

That's why I was wondering if the windshield had been lowered then not returned to the same rake.

If the windshield didn't get moved, did your old top fit like that?
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Old 01-09-2018, 10:18 PM
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The pic at your outside mirror looks like it fits.
Then the upper door starts to run crooked, getting about 1.5" at the top.
If that windshield was pulled back 1.5" looks like it would be a good fit.

That's why I was wondering if the windshield had been lowered then not returned to the same rake.

If the windshield didn't get moved, did your old top fit like that?

It does look pulled back right! Unfortunately it came like that. I never had a top. I bought the jeep topless
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Old 01-09-2018, 10:42 PM   #15
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I had the same problem.
Loosen the 'Mickey Mouse' plates at the lower windshield.
There is tamper-proof T-50 bolt at the rear of the spreader bar for windshield adjustment.

Loosen both sides and pull the windshield back, carefully.
Hold and re-tighten all.













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Old 01-09-2018, 10:57 PM   #16
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I drop my windshield often and deal ill-fitting doors regularly.



To make life easier I got rid of those tamper-proof T-50s.

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Old 01-10-2018, 12:12 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by natewill18 View Post
...the doors dont close straight ever since the day of installation. Followed everything to the T. Are my doors incorrectly aligned. Are my hinges off ? Why arent my doors shutting straight ?...
To answer your question, your doors are fine.

Your new top is yanked nearly 2 inches forward because the previous owner lowered the windshield and did not put the windshield back where it belongs.
Once the windshield is lowered it is difficult to return it to factory specs.

You need to loosen bolts at the bottom of the windshield, 'mickey mouse' plates.
Then loosen the bolt at the top rear of the spreader bar under the roll bar padding.
(note where it is now, so you can judge how much to slide the bar back)

Carefully pull the windshield back without breaking it.
I used a board & straps.
Just straps could be used (it's a lot of stress so I didn't use the footman loop)
Or a couple of big buddies could lean on it but, there will be cussing and none of you will end up happy.
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Old 01-10-2018, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raoul View Post
I drop my windshield often and deal ill-fitting doors regularly.



To make life easier I got rid of those tamper-proof T-50s.


So you're saying i should adjust my whole windshield in order to fix the ill fitting doors you see in my pictures ?
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Old 01-10-2018, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raoul View Post
To answer your question, your doors are fine.

Your new top is yanked nearly 2 inches forward because the previous owner lowered the windshield and did not put the windshield back where it belongs.
Once the windshield is lowered it is difficult to return it to factory specs.

You need to loosen bolts at the bottom of the windshield, 'mickey mouse' plates.
Then loosen the bolt at the top rear of the spreader bar under the roll bar padding.
(note where it is now, so you can judge how much to slide the bar back)

Carefully pull the windshield back without breaking it.
I used a board & straps.
Just straps could be used (it's a lot of stress so I didn't use the footman loop)
Or a couple of big buddies could lean on it but, there will be cussing and none of you will end up happy.
Just read this. wow you might be right because there are bolts missing around those mickey mouse ears that hold the windshield indicating the previous owner was messing around with the windshield. So you can tell from the pictures my windshield is a little too forward ? wow that's a great eye and catch.
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Old 01-10-2018, 12:27 AM   #20
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Don't really have a great eye.
I've dropped my windshield dozens of times then later tried to install my soft top.
So, I'm familiar with this condition.
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Old 01-10-2018, 12:21 PM   #21
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You have multiple issues here.

1. Fix your windshield so it is aligned properly as stated.
2. Your door alignment is way off. You have no gap at the bottom and it goes from zero to almost 1/2" plus at the top by the cowl. You need to adjust your door so it is centered and square in the opening with all gaps bottom and both sides the same. You may have to adjust your latch pin for the door after this.
3. You need to replace your broken and missing door pin inserts, here's a link:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/1...SABEgLDnfD_BwE

Then if you need to after all that bend the frame of the door to make it fit tighter against the top.
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Old 01-10-2018, 02:12 PM   #22
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Raoul is the forum expert in this matter. I'm glad he's posted these pics again. I've followed his example of the 2X6 with eyebolts to align my windshield frame when I installed a new one because the old one was rusted out. Usually we have issues then because we also install a new gasket. The new gasket needs a bit more compression than a used one.
I also followed his advice of replacing the T50 bolts with conventional hex head bolts.

In answer to your question at the bottom of the #18 post, yes, adjust your windshield frame first as shown in Raoul's post. Then take a look at the 3 plastic inserts in each door that hold the windows in place. If any are damaged, replace them. They're available on line from advertisers on this forum.
Once you have the windshield frame pulled back to align with the front of the door window frame and then a set of good inserts in place, you may or may not have to actually adjust your door hinges. Adjusting the door hinges is the last thing I'd do in your particular situation.

That said, usually the very first thing to do for door adjustment is align the door to fit the tub first. That may not be practical in your case. At the factory the doors are painted on the vehicle with the hinges aligned. If you move the hinges, you'll expose an unpainted edge where you move the hinge.

In case you ultimately have to adjust your hinges, here's how.
Number one step is remove the striker bolt at the rear of the door opening.
Then, in order to align the door hinges, you first have to heat the torx bolts on all the door side of the hinges to break the bond of the threadlocker that the factory puts on the bolts. This will probably burn the paint unless a guy is unusually careful with the heat.
Then using the CORRECT sized torx bit and an impact driver, loosen the most offending hinge on the door side and align it as best you can. then the least offending hinge and get the door to fit the opening. It may take several loosening, move to fit, and tighten to get the door gap to fit the opening evenly all around. Next is replace the striker bolt so that the door still align when you close and latch it. This will take a lot of fiddling to get it just right.

Then, once you're happy with how the doors fit, align the windshield frame (again) and then the top and then the windows.

And you thought owning an old Jeep was "Just Empty Every Pocket".....NOPE, there's a whole lot of learning that goes along with the expense.
Fortunately, we have this forum with a lot of folks that've gone down the 'problem' road before us.
Thanks Raoul for the valuable tip on windshield alignment.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 01-10-2018, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckymac View Post
Raoul is the forum expert in this matter. I'm glad he's posted these pics again. I've followed his example of the 2X6 with eyebolts to align my windshield frame when I installed a new one because the old one was rusted out. Usually we have issues then because we also install a new gasket. The new gasket needs a bit more compression than a used one.
I also followed his advice of replacing the T50 bolts with conventional hex head bolts.

In answer to your question at the bottom of the #18 post, yes, adjust your windshield frame first as shown in Raoul's post. Then take a look at the 3 plastic inserts in each door that hold the windows in place. If any are damaged, replace them. They're available on line from advertisers on this forum.
Once you have the windshield frame pulled back to align with the front of the door window frame and then a set of good inserts in place, you may or may not have to actually adjust your door hinges. Adjusting the door hinges is the last thing I'd do in your particular situation.

That said, usually the very first thing to do for door adjustment is align the door to fit the tub first. That may not be practical in your case. At the factory the doors are painted on the vehicle with the hinges aligned. If you move the hinges, you'll expose an unpainted edge where you move the hinge.

In case you ultimately have to adjust your hinges, here's how.
Number one step is remove the striker bolt at the rear of the door opening.
Then, in order to align the door hinges, you first have to heat the torx bolts on all the door side of the hinges to break the bond of the threadlocker that the factory puts on the bolts. This will probably burn the paint unless a guy is unusually careful with the heat.
Then using the CORRECT sized torx bit and an impact driver, loosen the most offending hinge on the door side and align it as best you can. then the least offending hinge and get the door to fit the opening. It may take several loosening, move to fit, and tighten to get the door gap to fit the opening evenly all around. Next is replace the striker bolt so that the door still align when you close and latch it. This will take a lot of fiddling to get it just right.

Then, once you're happy with how the doors fit, align the windshield frame (again) and then the top and then the windows.

And you thought owning an old Jeep was "Just Empty Every Pocket".....NOPE, there's a whole lot of learning that goes along with the expense.
Fortunately, we have this forum with a lot of folks that've gone down the 'problem' road before us.
Thanks Raoul for the valuable tip on windshield alignment.

Good Luck, L.M.
yes you are correct. I just bought a repair manual and have emptied my pockets lol I love it though. I assume we all do which is why we're all here. Seem slike its door alignment time this weekend. And now I have a wealth of instruction and pics to guide me. I'll check back and tell you how it goes ?
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Old 01-10-2018, 06:25 PM   #24
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If I read OV YJ correctly he is talking about the plastic inserts that fit into the plastic of the inside of the doors that the three rods for the uppers fit into, also mine had small locking collars on each of the three rods so you could fine adjust them. Looks like the inserts for the rods in the door are missing, if so the upper is going to sag and no way your going to match them up. If you look at the 5th picture that shows the inside of the door you can see where the two back ones appear to be missing. You can order new ones to go back in the door. The door may need adjusting some but not enough to make up for the gap you got.
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Old 01-10-2018, 06:40 PM   #25
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BTW, if you don't have a T50 bit, you can use curved jaw Vice Grips.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 01-10-2018, 06:56 PM   #26
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Also, I don't use the board anymore.
I replaced the torx screws that attach the spreader bars to the windshield with eyebolts.
The eyebolts must be the same length and thread count as those torx screws.
Ratchet strap hooks go thru the eyebolts, simpler/cleaner process.
(you can see them in the pic of my folded windshield above)
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Old 01-10-2018, 08:50 PM   #27
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It also looks like the adjustment stops are missing from the upper door pins.
I installed a new Supertop last year and ended up pulling my w/s forward to get the top stretched tight enough to stop the flapping at speed. Then readjusted the stop collars on the upper doors to get the alignment correct.
The collars are only on the front and rear pins.
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Old 01-11-2018, 03:12 AM
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Quote:
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If I read OV YJ correctly he is talking about the plastic inserts that fit into the plastic of the inside of the doors that the three rods for the uppers fit into, also mine had small locking collars on each of the three rods so you could fine adjust them. Looks like the inserts for the rods in the door are missing, if so the upper is going to sag and no way your going to match them up. If you look at the 5th picture that shows the inside of the door you can see where the two back ones appear to be missing. You can order new ones to go back in the door. The door may need adjusting some but not enough to make up for the gap you got.


you guys are right as well. Im missing 2 door inserts

https://photos.app.goo.gl/lQ12ycdYABvbk2DB2

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