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Old 11-14-2016, 11:47 PM
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whats the right lube??

90 4.2 islander full rebuild, curious about break in oil



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Old 11-15-2016, 12:19 AM   #2
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Just regular cheap dino oil. 10w30. Nothing special. Change after the first 500 miles.

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Old 11-15-2016, 08:20 PM   #3
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Out of curiosity, why dino oil? I've never broken in an engine, but my first instinct would be to go full synthetic. Not questioning anything, I'd just like to know the benefits.
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Old 11-15-2016, 10:38 PM   #4
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Just regular cheap dino oil. 10w30. Nothing special. Change after the first 500 miles.
I agree with dino oil here, but I do completely recommend a high quality break in additive since these are flat tappet cam motors and you will wipe out the cam and lifters without it.

OP! Lucas engine break in is what I usually use. Just look up flat tappet cam break in procedure. Usually you just use dino oil with the additive, first start up you get the engine straight to 2000 rpms and keep it between 2000-2200 for 30 minutes. Once the 30 minutes is up, change the filter, get the oil level right again then put about 500 miles on it then completely change the oil and filter. Use engine recommended oil from then on out with the proper zddp levels.

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Out of curiosity, why dino oil? I've never broken in an engine, but my first instinct would be to go full synthetic. Not questioning anything, I'd just like to know the benefits.
Synthetic has too many detergents and is expensive to just put a few hundred miles on...
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Build Thread 1989 YJ, Chevy 355 TBI, 4L60E, np231 ssye/wide chain/6 pinion planetary, D30/8.8/4.56, 33" A/T's, bds 3.5" springs, 1" Boom Shackles, crossover heim steering
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Old 11-15-2016, 11:28 PM   #5
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Build Thread 1989 YJ, Chevy 355 TBI, 4L60E, np231 ssye/wide chain/6 pinion planetary, D30/8.8/4.56, 33" A/T's, bds 3.5" springs, 1" Boom Shackles, crossover heim steering
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Old 11-16-2016, 12:35 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by logitech5500 View Post
90 4.2 islander full rebuild, curious about break in oil

I guess I should have asked the specifics of your "full rebuild"

I have been resigned to the fact that to most people these days, "completely rebuilt" meant that they tore the engine down in the vehicle and put new rings, bearings, gaskets, and timing chain set.

Did you install a new cam and lifters? If so, you need the high zinc break in additives and the cam assembly lube routine as recommended by C5.

My process is more of a "0 time" remanufacture with full hot tanking, boring, honing, balancing, everything new except block, head, crank, and rods.

I haven't seen that done by anyone in a while.
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Old 11-16-2016, 09:07 PM   #7
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My process is more of a "0 time" remanufacture with full hot tanking, boring, honing, balancing, everything new except block, head, crank, and rods.
When I hear full rebuild, this is what I think because that's what a full rebuild is to me.
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Old 11-16-2016, 09:26 PM   #8
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Me too, I actually use 7-11 oil, no kidding! The cheap stuff they have is completely dino, no detergent at all, and zinc additive. Never had an issue, or wiped a cam.
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Old 11-16-2016, 10:12 PM   #9
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Me too, I actually use 7-11 oil, no kidding! The cheap stuff they have is completely dino, no detergent at all, and zinc additive. Never had an issue, or wiped a cam.
I have tried a few different oils after rebuilds for flat tappet cams. Straight 30w, dino oil, Delo/rotella, synthetic, and joe gibbs break in oil. For me a good additive and dino is all that is needed. When I finish doing a full rebuild on my sbc 350, I will probably use the Mobil Super high mileage dino oil and lucas break in additive then ween over to Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic for having an SL certification (having at least 1100 ppm zddp)...
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Build Thread 1989 YJ, Chevy 355 TBI, 4L60E, np231 ssye/wide chain/6 pinion planetary, D30/8.8/4.56, 33" A/T's, bds 3.5" springs, 1" Boom Shackles, crossover heim steering
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Old 11-23-2016, 08:52 PM   #10
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Thank you very good read, if I'm lucky and time and money hold out I hope to finish my 4.7 this winter and this will help a Lot!
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Old 11-24-2016, 12:30 AM   #11
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Thank you very good read, if I'm lucky and time and money hold out I hope to finish my 4.7 this winter and this will help a Lot!
Another word of advice is to use an engine assembly grease instead of assembly lube. The lube will run off the cam and lifters over the course of a few days where as assembly grease will last about a year clinging to the parts. I learned that one the hard way when I built a 383 for an old project I had... This is what I use now assembling any engine and have had no complaints.


Grease vs lube

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Build Thread 1989 YJ, Chevy 355 TBI, 4L60E, np231 ssye/wide chain/6 pinion planetary, D30/8.8/4.56, 33" A/T's, bds 3.5" springs, 1" Boom Shackles, crossover heim steering
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