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Old 02-24-2017, 07:29 PM   #181
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does anyone know where to get the "vent gate cable"? mine just broke....

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Old 02-24-2017, 07:36 PM   #182
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you will have to get one at a wrecking yard . They no longer make them or stock them. where did it break at?

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Old 02-24-2017, 07:53 PM   #183
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you will have to get one at a wrecking yard . They no longer make them or stock them. where did it break at?

Well shoot.... none of the junkyard remotely close to me cary them...




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Old 02-24-2017, 08:23 PM   #184
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I ended up using JB weld to hold mine in. Make sure you clean all the surfaces good before you use it. I bought one from J +W auto wreckers in Antelope Ca. Phone # is 916-723-3989. They are very pricey, Just to warn you. Good luck
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Old 02-26-2017, 09:31 PM   #185
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Well shoot.... none of the junkyard remotely close to me cary them...
Omix-Ada carries a selection of the YJ HVAC cables, although I'm not positive if it's the correct one your after.

Omix-ADA - 17905.06 - Heater Defroster Cable, 87-95 Jeep Wrangler (YJ)

Air Vent Cable, 87-95 YJ
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Old 07-04-2017, 12:25 PM   #186
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I just wanted to say THANK YOU for the detailed information you provided for me. My son bought his first vehicle - 97 Jeep Wrangler - a few months ago and the dash board slider was stuck on heat and wouldn't slide to cool. It was constantly pouring scalding hot air in on our feet and through the defrost vents. In Florida, during the summer, it was unbearable even if we had the doors off and top off. After reading your post and some of the other suggestions and how to posts...him and I were able to remove the dash cover, find the problem, and fix it. All controls work now, air flows from where it is supposed to and NO MORE SCALDING HOT AIR ON OUR FEET. I can't thank everyone enough and my 16 year old son now thinks I'm the coolest mom ever!
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Old 08-07-2017, 12:39 PM   #187
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I noticed in the first diagram there are 4 cables shown. I can only find 2 attachment points on the control / levers. Where to the other 2 cables terminate on the control? I noticed a cable clip on the bottom side of my control but no way to hook the cable end to the cool/warm lever. Am I missing a part? Does anyone have a pick of the control from the bottom?
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Old 02-16-2018, 12:50 PM   #188
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Grand piece, not new but timely still. I am glad I read it before I looked into the temp slide that is very balky moving into the vent range.
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Old 02-16-2018, 02:40 PM   #189
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When I had my dash apart to paint, I taped the openings of all the cables in the 'up' position and shot WD40 down the opening as best as I could.
It took me a couple days of prepping and painting (along with curing a leaking heater core). As I was working, when I came to a stopping point (like to get a cup of coffee or a sandwich) I'd give the cables another shot of WD40. When I thought of it, I'd work the cable control levers back and forth and give another shot of WD40.
After a couple days of oiling and working the cables, they now work much easier.

Back in the day when most motorcycle brakes and clutches were cable controlled, I kinda, sorta remember a device to lubricate the cables as part of the routine maintenance.
I have no idea where a person might find such a device other than a motorcycle dealer or repair shop that's been in business since the '50s or '60s.
Just a thought.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 02-18-2018, 09:23 PM   #190
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Thanks LM
I do have some scooter cable lube I can use and loosen the cable, will also check and see if the cable is connected up correctly.
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Old 08-27-2018, 12:35 AM   #191
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Help with defroster issue.

First that write up is amazing! I’m having a slightly weird issue though. I have a 1994 yj sahara. The heat works great, but the defroster comes in and stays on when I drive. I can switch to vent and heat, but I cannot fully shit off the system. It will stop for a few minutes, then just blow hot out the defroster again no matter what I do. If I slam the selector back and forth, sometimes it will shut off again, but it’s not reliable. Making for a super hot drive in California let me tell you!

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
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Old 08-27-2018, 01:59 AM   #192
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First that write up is amazing! I’m having a slightly weird issue though. I have a 1994 yj sahara. The heat works great, but the defroster comes in and stays on when I drive. I can switch to vent and heat, but I cannot fully shit off the system. It will stop for a few minutes, then just blow hot out the defroster again no matter what I do. If I slam the selector back and forth, sometimes it will shut off again, but it’s not reliable. Making for a super hot drive in California let me tell you!

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
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Old 09-08-2018, 08:14 PM   #193
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Are there any known venders that carry new gates/doors? I hade to open my heater box to replace the four mounting bolts as they broke on removal and noticed the gates were very rusty and the foam disintegrating. I would like to replace them all so I don’t have to breath in that stuff. Any leads would be appreciated.
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Old 09-12-2018, 03:19 PM   #194
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I went through the forum before I changed out a leaking heater core and most told that you need a helper to put the cover back on the box.


Well I went ahead with the job alone anyway and found a work around for the 3 handed problem. When I got ready to close up the box I started by putting the 4 end most screws on the small end in. that held the top in the proper position. I then removed the fan motor and found that I could locate the end of the flapper everyone had problems with by reaching through the fan hole as I closed the rest of the cover down. I put all the screws back in and then put the fan and motor back on.


the whole change job took just a little over an hour.
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Old 11-29-2018, 07:29 PM   #195
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My 95 directs air to both the defroster and the floor vent when slider is pushed to Heat. Is this normal? Should it only be coming from the floor?
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Old 12-08-2018, 11:42 PM   #196
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My 95 directs air to both the defroster and the floor vent when slider is pushed to Heat. Is this normal? Should it only be coming from the floor?
Not normal. There is a diverter door in your heater box that is cable driven with the top slider control. First spot is window defroster, 2nd spot is floor. Your's may be in an in-between position. Have a look under the dash when you work the control, to confirm the cable is moving the door crank. The cable may just be out of adjustment too.

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Old 12-26-2018, 03:42 PM   #197
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This is a lifesaver thread - took out my heater core today and wow. The core was fine - but the entire plenum was just clogged.

I can't even by pencilrunner, on Flickr

The blower's squirrel cage . . .

Squirrel Cage by pencilrunner, on Flickr

Before I seal it all back up, though, what are y'alls thoughts on a good replacement for 'flapper foam' (for lack of a better word)? Also, is it worth doing the 'blazer upgrade' on this blower?

Thanks, folks!
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Old 12-26-2018, 05:36 PM   #198
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Holy Cow!! A new meaning for "squirrel cage" or in your case, "mouse cage".
I'll bet all that fluffy stuff came from the padding in your seats.

The "blazer upgrade" was popular with CJs because the CJ heaters were marginal at best. Anything that helped was welcome.

When I repaired my heater core, I kept my original blower motor because it worked well. If I ever have to replace it, I'd replace it with the Chevrolet blower motor. My thought there is "If it ain't broke why fix it". If it is broke, why not replace it with the best part I can buy?

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 12-26-2018, 10:58 PM   #199
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If I ever have to replace it, I'd replace it with the Chevrolet blower motor. My thought there is "If it ain't broke why fix it". If it is broke, why not replace it with the best part I can buy?
Truth to that! I'll hook up a 12v source and see if the darn motor isn't burned out from pushing rope with all that clogging (and put that money to a new harmonic balancer
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Old 03-24-2019, 06:21 PM   #200
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My 95 directs air to both the defroster and the floor vent when slider is pushed to Heat. Is this normal? Should it only be coming from the floor?
My 95 also splits the hot air between the floor and windshield. I prefer it to to stay that way as it gets more heat into the cabin.
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:24 PM   #201
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When in slide the slider to “off,” it usually clicks back on to the defroster, as if there’s too much tension on the cable to stay all the way off. It’s not too big of a deal, but it’s a little annoying.


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Old 07-11-2019, 02:20 PM   #202
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Thank you for this post...

I know this writeup has been up for about a decade but it is indeed timeless and has helped a lot!

I'm getting excessive heat from the floor vent even though it is closed. The diagrams clearly illustrate how the gates work in the stock heating system. Understanding is half he battle toward diagnosing.
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Old 11-10-2019, 08:48 AM   #203
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Blower won't shut off.

My fan will not shut off when slide is in the OFF or VENT position. All speeds work and all gates and doors open as they should. I have looked at the micro switch and it will click when the metal arm pushes the button but nothing happens, I have disconnected the wires from the switch and still runs.

Any Ideas?

Thanks
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Old 11-11-2019, 12:10 AM   #204
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My fan will not shut off when slide is in the OFF or VENT position. All speeds work and all gates and doors open as they should. I have looked at the micro switch and it will click when the metal arm pushes the button but nothing happens, I have disconnected the wires from the switch and still runs.

Any Ideas?

Thanks
Well, considering the button is usually pushed, disabling the fan in “off” or “vent”, and the fan no longer stops running in that situation, I think it’s safe to assume you need a new switch. The internals inside yours must have somehow broken or something to where current flows through the switch 100% of the time regardless of if the button is pushed or not. The options are to buy a new heater control from eBay that will have the switch on it (trust me, you will not find just the switch in new condition anywhere, the part number pulls up pretty much no results on google), or you could wire in a kill switch on the dash. I would rather just buy a panel off of eBay and use the switch on it, keeping the setup factory.
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Old 11-11-2019, 06:40 PM   #205
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I took the green wires off the switch, and it still runs. The PO may have jumped it. I checked the switch and it breaks continuity when pressed. Prints i have seen show the green wire interrupts the circuit coming from the fuse block to the fan speed switch but i don't see a splice. Guess BPritchard95 you probably have the best idea. Could be in the fan switch itself. May have burnt closed.
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Old 11-11-2019, 06:59 PM   #206
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Start at the blower and work your way backwards to find where your blower motor wire is getting power.
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Old 11-11-2019, 09:17 PM   #207
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Wellll, I found it. After dropping the A/C and all the dash trim, I found the slice, PO cut the hot going to the micro switch, spliced the fan switch, the A/C fan switch together to the hot. Put in a loom and taped up. I just couldn't see it. Ran a new fused hot to panel accessory pole to the A/C. Put the original wires back together. Little victories are so fun.

Thanks for the ideas.
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Old 11-12-2019, 06:19 AM   #208
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Wellll, I found it. After dropping the A/C and all the dash trim, I found the slice, PO cut the hot going to the micro switch, spliced the fan switch, the A/C fan switch together to the hot. Put in a loom and taped up. I just couldn't see it. Ran a new fused hot to panel accessory pole to the A/C. Put the original wires back together. Little victories are so fun.

Thanks for the ideas.
Sorry, in your first post I completely missed the last sentence where you said you disconnected the wires from the switch.

Glad you found the issue!
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Old 11-27-2019, 08:55 AM   #209
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So I have a question here. 91 wrangler btw. For the most part my cable system is out of service and I operate the blend door/floor or defrost and vent hand. No biggie to me, but if the vent flap was left in a closed position, that being its open at the passenger floor and ran the heat or defrost this way, is it not now pulling the air in from the cab and not ohe outside cowl vent like is said it always does? My point being recirculation of what hot air in in the cab instead of drawing in 20 degree outside cold air trying to heat it?
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Old 11-29-2019, 09:51 AM   #210
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Never mind on the last question, I see that wont work.

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