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Old 01-22-2020, 02:36 PM
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1310 vs 1350 U-Joint Driveshafts

Hello Jeepers, should I go with a 1310 U-joint driveshaft, or a 1350 U-joint driveshaft? Difference in price is about $200. I have a 2015 Unlimited Rubicon, 3 inch TF lift with alpine flexarms, 315x70x17's.. Whichever way you recommend me to go, please list a couple of reasons why..

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Old 01-22-2020, 03:23 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by TankJK45 View Post
Hello Jeepers, should I go with a 1310 U-joint driveshaft, or a 1350 U-joint driveshaft? Difference in price is about $200. I have a 2015 Unlimited Rubicon, 3 inch TF lift with alpine flexarms, 315x70x17's.. Whichever way you recommend me to go, please list a couple of reasons why..
How big are your tires?
Unless you have big tires, or wheel really hard, I would probably go with the 1310 U joint. If you want extra strength, go with U joints that lack the grease fitting and passages.

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Old 01-22-2020, 03:27 PM   #3
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1310.

If you wheel hard on big tires, go with chromolly axle shafts with 1350 joints. The 1310 driveshaft will be the "fuse" that breaks before something more expensive (gears, transfer case) does.
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Old 01-22-2020, 03:43 PM
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1310.

If you wheel hard on big tires, go with chromolly axle shafts with 1350 joints. The 1310 driveshaft will be the "fuse" that breaks before something more expensive (gears, transfer case) does.
Thank you for the awesome responses back to my threads! Please add me to your contacts if possible. I hit trails, sometimes rock crawl, but nothing crazy... Are you saying the 1310 is the safer route to go?
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Old 01-22-2020, 04:14 PM   #5
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1310's. As has been said before, the ujoint is the fuse in your drive line.

If you snap a 1310, it's a couple of hours worth of time/work to replace it in the field. If you snap a 1350, chances are that something else also went OR the 1350 holds and something much more expensive and impossible to fix in the field broke.

I run 37's now and run 1310's. Broke one last fall on a rock. With some help, got it back to camp, rounded up a ball joint press and popped in one of my spare 1310's. I was done and all set before hitting the sack and was ready to wheel the next morning. I might also mention that I was over 400 miles from home with a pop up camper in tow.
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Old 01-22-2020, 04:28 PM
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1310's. As has been said before, the ujoint is the fuse in your drive line.

If you snap a 1310, it's a couple of hours worth of time/work to replace it in the field. If you snap a 1350, chances are that something else also went OR the 1350 holds and something much more expensive and impossible to fix in the
field broke.



I run 37's now and run 1310's. Broke one last fall on a rock. With some help, got it back to camp, rounded up a ball joint press and popped in one of my spare 1310's. I was done and all set before hitting the sack and was ready to wheel the next morning. I might also mention that I was over 400 miles from home with a pop up camper in tow.
I mentioned this to a driveshaft company and they said they didnt understand why the 1310s were easier to fix off-road than the 1350s. Maybe they are naive???
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Old 01-22-2020, 04:38 PM   #7
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It's not that the 1350 is any harder to fix, it's that a 1310 will break before something in either the transfer case or differential, where a 1350 may or may not break before something else.

It's the same amount of work to replace either a 1310 or a 1350 IF you only have to replace the ujoint. That's what you are gamboling on, a 1350 going before something else.
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Old 01-22-2020, 04:55 PM   #8
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You break a 1310 U-joint: $25, fixable on the trail with a hammer and a socket

You break a diff gear set: $300 + labor, not fixable on the trail

You break a transfer case: $4,000 + labor, not fixable on the trail
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Old 01-22-2020, 05:45 PM
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You break a 1310 U-joint: $25, fixable on the trail with a hammer and a socket

You break a diff gear set: $300 + labor, not fixable on the trail

You break a transfer case: $4,000 + labor, not fixable on the trail
I should probably stick with a 1310, I dont wheel hard, you already said go 1310s, do you have them? If so, have you had any issues on the trail?
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Old 01-22-2020, 05:47 PM
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It's not that the 1350 is any harder to fix, it's that a 1310 will break before something in either the transfer case or differential, where a 1350 may or may not break before something else.

It's the same amount of work to replace either a 1310 or a 1350 IF you only have to replace the ujoint. That's what you are
gamboling on, a 1350 going before something else.
You are mainly speaking about coming down on a rock hard right?
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Old 01-22-2020, 05:50 PM   #11
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I should probably stick with a 1310, I dont wheel hard, you already said go 1310s, do you have them? If so, have you had any issues on the trail?
I have a 1310 front DS, the rear is still stock but will be going to a Tom Wood 1310 in a couple weeks.

I like to play in the rocks, haven't broken anything so far.

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Old 01-22-2020, 06:10 PM
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I should probably stick with a 1310, I dont wheel hard, you already said go 1310s, do you have them? If so, have you had any issues on the trail?
I have a 1310 front DS, the rear is still stock but will be going to a Tom Wood 1310 in a couple weeks.


I like to play in the rocks, haven't broken anything so far.

So all in all, the 1310s are plenty strong and are advisable over the 1350s? I called a few ds companies and they were very adamant about going the 1350 route (for moneys sake maybe??)...
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Old 01-22-2020, 06:33 PM   #13
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So all in all, the 1310s are plenty strong and are advisable over the 1350s? I called a few ds companies and they were very adamant about going the 1350 route (for moneys sake maybe??)...
Yeah, save the $200 difference for use on other parts IMHO
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Old 01-22-2020, 06:37 PM   #14
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1310 for D44, 1350 for D60.
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Old 01-22-2020, 07:18 PM   #15
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1310 for D44, 1350 for D60.
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Old 01-22-2020, 07:24 PM   #16
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1310 for D44, 1350 for D60.
Yep this.
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Old 01-22-2020, 08:05 PM
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1310 for D44, 1350 for D60.
I wonder why the ds dealers try to push the 1350's so bad...
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Old 01-22-2020, 08:11 PM   #18
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I wonder why the ds dealers try to push the 1350's so bad...

I don’t think a reputable diff shop or driveshaft outfit would. I suppose they must make more money off them. It’s really overkill for a D44 and as others stated may end up breaking much more expensive parts.
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Old 01-22-2020, 08:21 PM
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I don’t think a reputable diff shop or driveshaft outfit would. I suppose they must make more money off them. It’s really overkill for a D44 and as others stated may end up breaking much more expensive parts.
Thank you for this post, it sounds like I need to go with the 1310's with the D44's on my Jeep, heck, I don't mind saving the money too, I'm just trying to make sure that I go with the right choice.
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Old 01-22-2020, 08:40 PM   #20
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I think tire size has more to do with the proper choice. I understand some of you wanting a weak link in the chain. I prefer to not break and try and make every link in the chain hold up to my wheeling. When in low range any of our Jeeps have the torque to break parts. There is no guarantee that the part you want to break is the one that will break - or that you will only break on part. I have seen the ears on the driveshaft splay and ruin the shaft. I had a YJ that broke a front axle shaft on the driver's side, a locking hub on the front passenger side and the rear output shaft on the t-case - all at the same time. Build it as tough as you can and understand your limits.
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Old 01-22-2020, 09:51 PM
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I think tire size has more to do with the proper choice. I understand some of you wanting a weak link in the chain. I prefer to not break and try and make every link in the chain hold up to my wheeling. When in low range any of our Jeeps have the torque to break parts. There is no guarantee that the part you want to break is the one that will break - or that you will only break on part. I have seen the ears on the driveshaft splay and ruin the shaft. I had a YJ that broke a front axle shaft on the driver's side, a locking hub on the front passenger side and the rear output shaft on the t-case - all at the same time. Build it as tough as you can and understand your limits.
so what do you think is best for 315x70x17s?
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Old 01-23-2020, 04:38 AM   #22
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I think tire size has more to do with the proper choice.

More like improper tire choice.
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Old 01-23-2020, 07:06 AM   #23
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1310 is perfectly fine. I rock crawl my Jeep. I do the tough trails. In 5-1/2 years, I have never grenaded a driveshaft on the trail. Run proper gearing and respect the skinny pedal.

No need for 1350. A lot of the "oh you NEED 1350" folks are the "hey look mine is bigger than yours!!!" type. LOL
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Old 01-23-2020, 09:48 AM   #24
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1310 is perfectly fine. I rock crawl my Jeep. I do the tough trails. In 5-1/2 years, I have never grenaded a driveshaft on the trail. Run proper gearing and respect the skinny pedal.

No need for 1350. A lot of the "oh you NEED 1350" folks are the "hey look mine is bigger than yours!!!" type. LOL
I guess that is why Adams Driveshaft requires me to run a 1350 for my tire size and won't warranty a 1310? I'm running 42" Trep stickies on a heavy (7000#) JKU with 5.38 gears and a 4:1 T-case (soon to be 5:1). There are times you need a larger driveshaft.
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Old 01-23-2020, 09:50 AM   #25
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More like improper tire choice.
Please explain that comment. What exactly is "improper tire choice"? If I choose to run 42's for the rock crawling I do why is that improper?
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Old 01-23-2020, 09:52 AM   #26
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so what do you think is best for 315x70x17s?
1310 is perfectly fine for anything 38" and below assuming you are not running a 5:1 t-case or turning 350+ HP.
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Old 01-23-2020, 10:02 AM   #27
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I don’t think a reputable diff shop or driveshaft outfit would. I suppose they must make more money off them. It’s really overkill for a D44 and as others stated may end up breaking much more expensive parts.
Adams Driveshaft - which is as reputable as they get strongly recommends 1350 driveshafts for my tire choice and will not warranty a 1310 on my setup. So yes reputable driveshaft shops do recommend larger driveshafts for larger tires - it is simple physics. From Adam's web site: "This OEM Flange Extreme Duty Series Solid 1310 CV Driveshaft will work up to 37" Tall Tires, after that size we recommend upgrading to our [Extreme Duty 1350 Solid Series]. Bigger tires add more Weight, Traction, and more Pressure on your Drivetrain Components like your Driveshafts, Axles, Gears, Etc.

In fact my driveshaft is only recommended for 42" tires and below: "This Extreme Duty Solid 1350 CV Driveshaft will work up to 42" Tall Tires. After that you would need to go with our [Insane Duty 1410 Solid U-joint Series]"
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Old 01-23-2020, 10:06 AM   #28
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Are you running 42's on a D44?
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Old 01-23-2020, 10:08 AM   #29
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Please explain that comment. What exactly is "improper tire choice"? If I choose to run 42's for the rock crawling I do why is that improper?
Tires not matched to the rest of the driveline. For example running 40s on D44s. I would really say more like true 37 to 38 and above use D60s. Most shops don't tow that line because if they did they would see their sales decline.
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Old 01-23-2020, 10:20 AM   #30
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Adams Driveshaft - which is as reputable as they get strongly recommends 1350 driveshafts for my tire choice and will not warranty a 1310 on my setup.
I assuming you're running D60s then.

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