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Old 08-02-2017, 12:09 AM   #31
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I've had the AEV 2.5" for over a year and still love it!

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Old 08-02-2017, 04:24 PM
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So, something I mentioned in my OP but don't think we talked much about..............drop brackets. I know they're supposed to help the ride by making sure the impacts of driving over stuff go to the springs and shocks instead of the frame as well in a lifted vehicle. Would these maybe be a good idea to go for since I'm not as worried about the ground clearance with the focus not being rock crawling but overlanding?

I'm not sure how much of what I drive over is really going into the frame or not at this point if that makes sense. Based on my original lift numbers and some guessing based on mods since I'm thinking I'm sitting around 2.75-3.0 in the front (3.25 roughly after lift before rockhard winch plate and 9500i QTec winch with synthetic line). I was about 2.75 in the rear after the lift but now I've got a JCR mid bumper with tire carrier and 90lbs of tire & wheel back there.

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Old 08-02-2017, 04:33 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyinion View Post
So, something I mentioned in my OP but don't think we talked much about..............drop brackets. I know they're supposed to help the ride by making sure the impacts of driving over stuff go to the springs and shocks instead of the frame as well in a lifted vehicle. Would these maybe be a good idea to go for since I'm not as worried about the ground clearance with the focus not being rock crawling but overlanding?

I'm not sure how much of what I drive over is really going into the frame or not at this point if that makes sense. Based on my original lift numbers and some guessing based on mods since I'm thinking I'm sitting around 2.75-3.0 in the front (3.25 roughly after lift before rockhard winch plate and 9500i QTec winch with synthetic line). I was about 2.75 in the rear after the lift but now I've got a JCR mid bumper with tire carrier and 90lbs of tire & wheel back there.
Overall lift of 2.5" or more, brackets are a good idea, if not going to adjustable arms due to your driving style and terrain. The brackets will keep the lowers more flat and deliver a better driving experience vs adjustable arms. For your situaltion, go for the brackets, yes. The brackets are more for the correction of caster after the lift though. Proper caster will help you track down the road properly and help you return to center after turning.

Have a great day!

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Old 08-02-2017, 05:18 PM
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Overall lift of 2.5" or more, brackets are a good idea, if not going to adjustable arms due to your driving style and terrain. The brackets will keep the lowers more flat and deliver a better driving experience vs adjustable arms. For your situaltion, go for the brackets, yes. The brackets are more for the correction of caster after the lift though. Proper caster will help you track down the road properly and help you return to center after turning.

Have a great day!

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Hi Allen I do already have a full set of Metalcloak arms and trackbar up front (still stock in the rear) so that's why I was thinking from the standpoint of properly directing the terrain impacts up into the springs & shocks. I've heard of some others around here running brackets with adjustable arms but have also read a lot of comments from people who think something like that is redundant so I'm kinda not sure what to do. It sure is a pretty cheap and easy thing to do though if it would accomplish plushing up the ride a bit on road.
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Old 08-02-2017, 05:49 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by flyinion View Post
Hi Allen I do already have a full set of Metalcloak arms and trackbar up front (still stock in the rear) so that's why I was thinking from the standpoint of properly directing the terrain impacts up into the springs & shocks. I've heard of some others around here running brackets with adjustable arms but have also read a lot of comments from people who think something like that is redundant so I'm kinda not sure what to do. It sure is a pretty cheap and easy thing to do though if it would accomplish plushing up the ride a bit on road.

I went from brackets to all 8 arms. Honestly the difference was minimal.


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Old 08-02-2017, 06:04 PM
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I went from brackets to all 8 arms. Honestly the difference was minimal.


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Thanks. Maybe I just need to finish off the rear arms and inspect and potentially replace my 4 year old bushings in the front uppers and 2+ year old bushings in the lowers. I didn't realize (or forgot) until last year sometime that the MC bushings are supposed to be cleaned and lubed once a year, though I don't see much serious wheeling so hopefully they're still ok. I haven't been able still to get in there and check them out still.
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Old 08-02-2017, 06:11 PM   #37
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In park, Grab your front tire and rock it back and forth. Look or get your hand up around the bushings (if you can). Look/feel for excessive play.


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Old 08-02-2017, 06:13 PM   #38
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Making sure everything is properly lubed, torqued to spec while under weight on the tires, tire pressure set correctly for vehicle weight and sidewall construction, and shocks correctly dampening out the bumps are where you will notice the most benefit. Then again, you can always trash it all and go longarm. j/k
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Old 08-03-2017, 03:40 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by flyinion View Post
Thanks. Maybe I just need to finish off the rear arms and inspect and potentially replace my 4 year old bushings in the front uppers and 2+ year old bushings in the lowers. I didn't realize (or forgot) until last year sometime that the MC bushings are supposed to be cleaned and lubed once a year, though I don't see much serious wheeling so hopefully they're still ok. I haven't been able still to get in there and check them out still.
That was the initial recommendation when the DuroFlex arms first came out. Unless the bushings are making noise or they need rebuilt for some reason they now recommend to just leave them be.
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Old 08-03-2017, 03:45 AM   #40
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Hi Allen I do already have a full set of Metalcloak arms and trackbar up front (still stock in the rear) so that's why I was thinking from the standpoint of properly directing the terrain impacts up into the springs & shocks. I've heard of some others around here running brackets with adjustable arms but have also read a lot of comments from people who think something like that is redundant so I'm kinda not sure what to do. It sure is a pretty cheap and easy thing to do though if it would accomplish plushing up the ride a bit on road.
If you already have arms a drop bracket will not do much for you unless your ride is extremely harsh. In fact I find that the MC control arms are actually less harsh than the stock arms.
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Old 08-03-2017, 01:32 PM   #41
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Then again, you can always trash it all and go longarm. j/k
You have no idea how much I'm wanting to do this....
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Old 08-03-2017, 01:54 PM   #42
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You have no idea how much I'm wanting to do this....
Shoot me a PM if you really want numbers to get it done.
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Old 08-03-2017, 01:56 PM   #43
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I liked my OME shocks.


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I was going to say that I know AEV uses their own tuned Bilstein 5100 shocks. I've run both the Bilstein 5100 shocks and OME Nitrocharger shocks. The Bilstein's are very stiff and made for a jarring ride a lot of the time. The OME shocks are much softer and when combined with MC's stiffer springs made for a firm, but smooth ride.
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Old 12-13-2017, 03:02 AM   #44
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I’m currently running 2.5” jks coils with Fox shocks and the ride is a bit harsh ... I’ve Been debating to switch out to MC 2.5” coils? Has anyone gone this route ? Would you all recommend the change ? I am waiting for a replacement part and my rhino rack pioneer will go on which should add some more weight in the back


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Old 12-13-2017, 05:33 AM   #45
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I’m currently running 2.5” jks coils with Fox shocks and the ride is a bit harsh ... I’ve Been debating to switch out to MC 2.5” coils? Has anyone gone this route ? Would you all recommend the change ? I am waiting for a replacement part and my rhino rack pioneer will go on which should add some more weight in the back


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MC spring are some of the firmest out there, I am not sure JKS are any firmer. So I have a couple of questions. First what PSI are you running in your tires. Second are you running aftermarket control arms and is so who's.
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Old 12-13-2017, 10:57 AM   #46
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MC spring are some of the firmest out there, I am not sure JKS are any firmer. So I have a couple of questions. First what PSI are you running in your tires. Second are you running aftermarket control arms and is so who's.


I have ko2s in 315 75 r16 and currently running 28 psi. I used to be at 34 psi when I first got them installed but have adjusted since and it’s much better. I am running jks j flex front lower adjustable control arms. I have a yeti tie rod on order so once I install that I will go in for an alignment
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Old 12-13-2017, 11:12 AM   #47
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Maybe we can get @Pressurized to jump in here. I really don't see anything wrong. Duroflex arms are probably a little more forgiving but not enough so to justify the cost.
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Old 12-13-2017, 12:25 PM   #48
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Maybe we can get @Pressurized to jump in here. I really don't see anything wrong. Duroflex arms are probably a little more forgiving but not enough so to justify the cost.
I don't have much to add... Looks like a really nice setup. MC is pretty firm. I know someone just swapped their JKS springs for Teraflex springs... I'll see if I can find that information.

Might consider some of the lower rate OME coils if you are trying to soften up the ride.
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Old 12-13-2017, 01:11 PM   #49
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In the last year I have run RK's latest triple rate coils and MC's current dual rate coils on lifts from each company. They are very similar once they settle in and have more than 500 mixed miles on them. Both are stiff. Both give decent handling characteristics. Both prefer a softer shock. MC is hands down the winner when it came to NVH though.
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Old 12-13-2017, 01:53 PM   #50
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I don't have much to add... Looks like a really nice setup. MC is pretty firm. I know someone just swapped their JKS springs for Teraflex springs... I'll see if I can find that information.



Might consider some of the lower rate OME coils if you are trying to soften up the ride.


I would love to read their thread .. I will try and look for it because I used to have Teraflex on my last Jeep so it’ll be interesting to compare.

We did a trip recently to bishop and I had a good amount of weight in the back and the ride was amazing so it could be that my Jeep normally is just light

For my yeti tie rod, will the stock stabilizer bracket work ?
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Old 12-13-2017, 02:13 PM   #51
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I would love to read their thread .. I will try and look for it because I used to have Teraflex on my last Jeep so it’ll be interesting to compare.

We did a trip recently to bishop and I had a good amount of weight in the back and the ride was amazing so it could be that my Jeep normally is just light

For my yeti tie rod, will the stock stabilizer bracket work ?
no
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Old 12-13-2017, 02:20 PM   #52
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.25" difference in diameter.

Quote:
Note: This linkage requires a 1.625 diameter damper bracket that is not included.

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