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Old 05-17-2017, 08:34 AM
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Best Power Distribution Center for Future Mods?

I am installing the Alpine KTP-445U little amp (12ga wire), a powered sub for the rear (10ga wire) now. In the future, I will be installing a CB, winch, and lights. Nothing too crazy, but a few add-on parts.

Looking to future proof things, what would you all recommend as a power distro center for hooking all these things up with different wire sizes, etc. I would like to keep it clean, safe, and simple.

Thanks!
Dave

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Old 05-17-2017, 08:48 AM   #2
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You wanna wire your winch straight to the battery always it draws the most current and has thickest wires.....
I ran my CB off the cigarette lighter power wires.

Not sure on the lights see people with little toggle switches , i think its called a POD is what they sell thats jk specific for the switches if you put lots of lights on it. but its kinda pricey... or just buy some switches and a blank box and make your own.

For stereo I run a distribution block in the rear of the JK wired straight off the battery protected with with one main fuse going to into it and each amplifier then has its owna fuse

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Old 05-17-2017, 08:48 AM   #3
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Do you know what the amp draw is for the sub and amp? There is a panel made by Bussman that is rated at 80a overall with individual circuit ratings of 30a. It has 5 relay circuits and 5 constant powered circuits.



If you are interested in building one let me know and I can send you a parts list. I also sell them through the forum so if you are interested in getting one or getting more information on then let me know.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:02 AM
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Thanks all....good info.

@Rogue26 my small amp is 15amps, the powered sub would be no more than 30amps. I would be interested in seeing a parts list for that Bussman panel just to see, but in all reality I would probably just buy one from someone who knows what they are doing

Would that bussman handle the 10 ga wire for that 30amp powered sub (300W RMS 600W max) ?
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:15 AM   #5
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Yes the Bussman panel max amperage per circuit is 30a and it should handle a #10 wire. I will double check that when I get home tonight. They are a pretty nice panel, I like them do to the simplicity. There are no electronics in them like some of the other panels so they are they are rugged enough for jeeps and easy to troubleshoot if a problem did arise. I will PM you the materials list. If you are a DIY type of person then building it is the way to go. The cost will be really close to my sale price because there is a minimum parts order from the supplier on terminal, seals, plugs, and you need a set of crimpers. The real break point if ordering enough to build 4 panels at a time.
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Old 05-17-2017, 11:38 AM   #6
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Skitime's Fuse Panel

Quote:
Originally Posted by deeve View Post
Looking to future proof things, what would you all recommend as a power distro center for hooking all these things up with different wire sizes, etc. I would like to keep it clean, safe, and simple.

Thanks!
Dave
I had my last rig for 15 years. With all the mods I did to it the one thing I wished I had did differently was the wiring. With this new rig I was determined to do a better job. I wanted expandability and all fuses in one place. The problem with the last rig was as you added electrical items fuses were often inline fuses and after a long time you would forget where the hell the fuse was or worse you would tap power from another fused item. I looked at the expensive over the counter fuse/relay units. Most of them have a limit of circuits 0f 6-8 which is not much expandability. This time I built my own setup with 3 different fuse boxes and control relays to power the fuse boxes. No electrical device is connected without its own fuse on the panel. Left fuse box is the battery fuse box for all items that need constant power. Middle fuse box is accessory fuse box for items receive power when the key in on or accessory position. The third fuse box is powered when the parking lights are on. I built a power panel that bolts to the firewall above the brake booster. On the panel is mounted 3 fuse boxes, 3 heavy duty relays. This 6 way ATC/ATO blade fuse holder box is compact, yet rugged in construction. LED illuminated, the red LED indicator light allows you to quickly diagnose which of the fuse has “popped”. These fuse panels have a 1/4” stud for power feed, .250” male quick disconnect terminals, can handle a maximum of 30 Amp per circuit with a maximum of 100 Amp per panel, and has a cover for additional protection. This fuse box company also makes similar fuse panels with 10 circuits instead of 6 if you need even more circuits.
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Old 05-17-2017, 11:56 AM
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Wow! Very impressive. I'm at work but I'll study this for sure when I get home.
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Old 05-17-2017, 11:57 AM   #8
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Great thread and article. I also went in this direction, and it has worked well for me and cost only $20.00 for the fuse box solution. I like the labeling and will have to follow suit in mine. Well Done!
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Old 05-17-2017, 12:38 PM   #9
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I have a PDU mounted under the glovebox for my radios, gps, and other electronic gizmos.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I ran 8 gauge wire to it, fused with a 100 amp fuse on both legs. 10 gauge wire to the high power radio and 12/14 to other devices as needed.

Winch straight to the battery as stated earlier. If you want protection for that, find a breaker of some kind. Winches can pull a bunch of amperage in theory but seldom get really thirsty. You'd be having a very bad day if it pulled more than 100 amps.
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Old 05-17-2017, 06:46 PM
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@skitime Do you have any photos of the battery side connection by chance?
I've been blowing the photos up and studying your work. It is very neat and clean.

DAVE

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I had my last rig for 15 years. With all the mods I did to it the one thing I wished I had did differently was the wiring. With this new rig I was determined to do a better job. I wanted expandability and all fuses in one place. The problem with the last rig was as you added electrical items fuses were often inline fuses and after a long time you would forget where the hell the fuse was or worse you would tap power from another fused item. I looked at the expensive over the counter fuse/relay units. Most of them have a limit of circuits 0f 6-8 which is not much expandability. This time I built my own setup with 3 different fuse boxes and control relays to power the fuse boxes. No electrical device is connected without its own fuse on the panel. Left fuse box is the battery fuse box for all items that need constant power. Middle fuse box is accessory fuse box for items receive power when the key in on or accessory position. The third fuse box is powered when the parking lights are on. I built a power panel that bolts to the firewall above the brake booster. On the panel is mounted 3 fuse boxes, 3 heavy duty relays. This 6 way ATC/ATO blade fuse holder box is compact, yet rugged in construction. LED illuminated, the red LED indicator light allows you to quickly diagnose which of the fuse has “popped”. These fuse panels have a 1/4” stud for power feed, .250” male quick disconnect terminals, can handle a maximum of 30 Amp per circuit with a maximum of 100 Amp per panel, and has a cover for additional protection. This fuse box company also makes similar fuse panels with 10 circuits instead of 6 if you need even more circuits.
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Old 05-17-2017, 07:12 PM
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@Hilldweller , what do you mean you ran the 100 amp fuse to both legs? I understand one 100 amp fuse close to the battery connection on the 8 gauge that runs to the Blue Sea box, but what was the other one for?
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I have a PDU mounted under the glovebox for my radios, gps, and other electronic gizmos.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I ran 8 gauge wire to it, fused with a 100 amp fuse on both legs. 10 gauge wire to the high power radio and 12/14 to other devices as needed.

Winch straight to the battery as stated earlier. If you want protection for that, find a breaker of some kind. Winches can pull a bunch of amperage in theory but seldom get really thirsty. You'd be having a very bad day if it pulled more than 100 amps.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:04 PM   #12
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@skitime Do you have any photos of the battery side connection by chance?
I've been blowing the photos up and studying your work. It is very neat and clean.

DAVE
Nothing exciting there. I have a heavy cable running from battery terminal to the battery fuse main post. In the first picture I pulled back the loom protecting to show the heavy gauge purple wire to show the battery connection. I then ran heavy duty relay connectors to power the second and third fuse panels from that main post on the first battery fuse panel. No real need for any inline breakers/fuse since everything is fused. Since I plan to have this rig for a long time and my memory is not the best at my age, I try to label everything so I will know what is what 10-15 years from now.

I included some additional pictures to help explain everything. BTW the under hood lighting is something I also added to this rig. It is four Waterproof Aluminum High Power 6W 6000K Xenon Slim COB LED Daytime Running Lights. These come on with a plunger switch when the hood is open and can be turn off with a waterproof plunger switch.
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Old 05-17-2017, 11:18 PM
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Very nice! So basically that purple (10 gauge?) powers all three fuse panels by connecting them via the 1/4 power stud feed. Each of the two additional panels are not powered until the specific relay function if triggered...either ignition switch turned on or parking lights. If all three are powered up at the same time at the 100amp max, wouldn't that overpower the main supply wire, or are you just being smart about how many amps you pull?

Also, you mentioned three relays...What is the third heavy duty relay for?

BTW, questioning because I am interested in learning..not doubting your design.
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Old 05-18-2017, 04:01 AM   #14
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@Hilldweller , what do you mean you ran the 100 amp fuse to both legs? I understand one 100 amp fuse close to the battery connection on the 8 gauge that runs to the Blue Sea box, but what was the other one for?
I put a fuse on the ground too. Overkill but why not? Fuses aren't expensive but my electronics are.
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Old 05-18-2017, 12:10 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Very nice! So basically that purple (10 gauge?) powers all three fuse panels by connecting them via the 1/4 power stud feed. Each of the two additional panels are not powered until the specific relay function if triggered...either ignition switch turned on or parking lights. If all three are powered up at the same time at the 100amp max, wouldn't that overpower the main supply wire, or are you just being smart about how many amps you pull?

Also, you mentioned three relays...What is the third heavy duty relay for?

BTW, questioning because I am interested in learning..not doubting your design.
The second and third fuse boxes are maxed at the capacity of the relay at 60 amps. Be sure to buy quality relay sockets many I found are not rated at the capacity of the relay. The cheaper ones have attached wires that are severely under gauged for the amperage. Currently fuse box 1 might have 8-9 amps with all items turned on. Fuse box 2 might have 3 amps max and fuse box 3 might have 4 amps max. The watts for a "pair" of these LED light are 14 , 16, 18 watts but only the pillar lights could stay on all the time. The driving lights can only come on when high beam is on. The fog lights can only come on when low beams are on so only 2 pair of lights could ever be on at the same time. So basically I am in no danger of overloading anything in this setup. Remember my purpose is to have on central fused location to connect everything in the Jeep. No inline fuses anywhere. Also all connections are solder and shrink tubed. The only crimped connections are the Spade connectors on the fuse boxes.

As for the 3rd relay. When I built this panel with 3 fuse boxes a relay would fit neatly below each fuse box. The 3rd relay is simply a spare pre-mounted relay. I know I will eventually find a use for it and it fits there so perfectly and all needed connections will be right there.

I have some additional direct to the battery connections that are not using these fuse boxes.

1. Winch Cable

2. ARB CKMA12 compressor. This comes with a excellent wire harness/relays and switch assembly with HEAVY duty fuse designed to be direct connected to the battery.

3. 175 Amp Anderson Connector. I have a battery jumper connector on the front bumper. This allow jumping the Jeep or another vehicle without even opening the hood.

4. Towed battery charger. I flat tow my Jeep and this connection charges the Jeep battery as I tow it.

5. Battery Tender connection. Allows me to connect the battery tender without opening the hood.
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:52 PM   #16
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Old 05-21-2017, 11:21 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Nothing exciting there. I have a heavy cable running from battery terminal to the battery fuse main post. In the first picture I pulled back the loom protecting to show the heavy gauge purple wire to show the battery connection. I then ran heavy duty relay connectors to power the second and third fuse panels from that main post on the first battery fuse panel. No real need for any inline breakers/fuse since everything is fused. Since I plan to have this rig for a long time and my memory is not the best at my age, I try to label everything so I will know what is what 10-15 years from now.

I included some additional pictures to help explain everything. BTW the under hood lighting is something I also added to this rig. It is four Waterproof Aluminum High Power 6W 6000K Xenon Slim COB LED Daytime Running Lights. These come on with a plunger switch when the hood is open and can be turn off with a waterproof plunger switch.
You must be an electrician or EE! Very nice work. One of my peeves is the lack of labeling on circuits. I like to add heatshrink labels if I can get them on before crimping or soldering. Have to add sticky labels a lot of times though.

Definitely like the labels on the fuse boxes.

For everyone else: If you don't have a heatshrink label maker, you can also just use white or yellow heatshrink tubing and write on it with a pen. Write large! As it will shrink 2-4x with the tubing depending on which tubing you buy.
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Old 05-21-2017, 11:42 AM   #18
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You must be an electrician or EE! Very nice work. One of my peeves is the lack of labeling on circuits. I like to add heatshrink labels if I can get them on before crimping or soldering. Have to add sticky labels a lot of times though.

Definitely like the labels on the fuse boxes.

For everyone else: If you don't have a heatshrink label maker, you can also just use white or yellow heatshrink tubing and write on it with a pen. Write large! As it will shrink 2-4x with the tubing depending on which tubing you buy.
Just a retired tech ed teacher but I have been modding cars my whole life. The label maker was a great addition to get beyond my handwritten labels of the past. It is a Brothers PT-1880. The labels have held up fine to engine heat.
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Old 05-28-2017, 01:36 PM   #19
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I installed the Apollointech 6 switch system. Fairly simple install, I added two screws on the bottom to secure the unit to the plastic trim instead of relying on the double sided tape it comes with. Run some Rigid Dually Side Shooters on the A-pillars and installed some LED floods in the rear bumper. Rock and rack lights to follow at some point in the future.

It's a knock-off of the sPOD but is well built and safely wired. The sPOD has far more capability and is made in the USA; I found and installed the Apollointech first or else I would have grabbed a sPOD. $190-ish from Amazon vs. $450+ for an sPOD.
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Old 05-29-2017, 12:15 PM   #20
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But that only handles 6 circuits. That does not leave much expandability and what about things that you do not want to have switch controlled.
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Old 05-29-2017, 03:09 PM   #21
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I'm driving a Jeep, not a passenger airliner, for God's sake. 6 switched circuits are all I need for lighting; i would never run my winch through it and already have a separate circuit for comms. If I ever hardwire my air compressor, I'll use one of the 6 switched circuits. ;-)
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Old 02-21-2019, 06:56 PM   #22
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Left fuse box is the battery fuse box for all items that need constant power. Middle fuse box is accessory fuse box for items receive power when the key in on or accessory position. The third fuse box is powered when the parking lights are on. I built a power panel that bolts to the firewall above the brake booster. On the panel is mounted 3 fuse boxes, 3 heavy duty relays.
Old thread, but I just registered here after picking up a '15. I am following most of this, but how are you triggering the power to the 2nd and 3rd boxes? Are you powering the whole box with a big relay and using a ACC fuse tap or something to trigger it? Therefore the whole box has power only when the key is turned? Where are you tapping in for that? Thanks for any info.
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Old 02-21-2019, 07:55 PM   #23
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Old thread, but I just registered here after picking up a '15. I am following most of this, but how are you triggering the power to the 2nd and 3rd boxes? Are you powering the whole box with a big relay and using a ACC fuse tap or something to trigger it? Therefore the whole box has power only when the key is turned? Where are you tapping in for that? Thanks for any info.
Left fuse box is constant hot. Middle fuse box is triggered via relay by the key being on. Right Fuse panel is triggered via relay when parking lights are on.
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Old 02-21-2019, 08:12 PM   #24
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Old thread, but I just registered here after picking up a '15. I am following most of this, but how are you triggering the power to the 2nd and 3rd boxes? Are you powering the whole box with a big relay and using a ACC fuse tap or something to trigger it? Therefore the whole box has power only when the key is turned? Where are you tapping in for that? Thanks for any info.
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