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Old 05-02-2019, 06:31 PM
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Can not find a right U joint (pictures updated

So first I had an U joint binding on passenger side for the past 2 months and I finally realized 2 weeks ago.

My jeep is a 2013 JKUR

I ordered a Dana Spicer 5-7166X from 4wheelparts local shop for my Dana 44

Yesterday I removed the U joint from my Axle shaft and tried to install the U joint, that was time the problem started. The cross section of the Spicer U joint is longer then my original one.
I confirmed with the shop, this is the right U joint for my jeep. I checked with the dealership, and based on my VIN number, dealer showed me exact the same U joint. after I talked the issue to the dealer, they told me maybe my shaft is the one that "unserviceable"(they can check that only depend the number on the outer shaft/stub shaft, and my was too rusted to be read) and I have to change the whole axle shaft.

I went to other parts store, and they all gave me the same U joint.

Don't know if the other brands will have the same issue, I am still waiting for the Alloy USA, just want to share my bad experience so someone in the future need to do this job, better to check before removing everything.

I will take the picture later.

Here are the pictures, I can't adjust the order of the pictures, the first and the last pictures are the old u joint and the new u joint position in the yoke. and I checked the inside distance of the yoke, and the snap ring distance of the old one and the new one. the new one is obviously longer that the old one (I know the cap can be pressed in a little bit but that's not going to be enough to make both side of the snap rings' groove into the yoke)

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Old 05-02-2019, 07:32 PM   #2
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No such thing as an "unserviceable" front axle shaft from Dana for the JK. At least not that I know of and I deal with this every day for work. Something is wrong here. Any chance they are aftermarket shafts of some sort? Did you buy this Jeep brand new?

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Old 05-02-2019, 07:48 PM
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No such thing as an "unserviceable" front axle shaft from Dana for the JK. At least not that I know of and I deal with this every day for work. Something is wrong here. Any chance they are aftermarket shafts of some sort? Did you buy this Jeep brand new?

Yes, I bought the jeep brand new and I know all the history of it. No job has been done for the axle shaft.

I saw a post https://www.jkowners.com/forum/stock...o-details.html, the post #3 from a guy call "membrain" meet the same issue I have. here is his situation

"Yeah... I had a similar problem with my 2014 JKURX... I ordered what appeared to be the correct Spicer 7166X parts, the same which the OP also confirms, but there was no way in hell those u-joints were going on my front axles. There was no room. I had to grind bevels on a couple of sides of the u-joint body because it was too thick. Too thick because the body had strengthening ridges cast into it. The OEM u-joints are thin enough to easily slide in/out of position for install. The Spicer 7166X u-joints are 1-1/16 inches thick and the OEM u-joints are exactly 1 inch thick.

Once I ground the bevels, the 7166X u-joints would then slide into place allowing both end caps to be pressed on. But even still, these did not fit properly, and I ended up partially crushing/deforming the plastic grease retaining seals on the caps. Removing the 7166X u-joints resulted in the end caps cracking and disintegrating before they would fully pop out..."
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Old 05-03-2019, 07:28 AM   #4
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Yes, I bought the jeep brand new and I know all the history of it. No job has been done for the axle shaft.



I saw a post https://www.jkowners.com/forum/stock...o-details.html, the post #3 from a guy call "membrain" meet the same issue I have. here is his situation



"Yeah... I had a similar problem with my 2014 JKURX... I ordered what appeared to be the correct Spicer 7166X parts, the same which the OP also confirms, but there was no way in hell those u-joints were going on my front axles. There was no room. I had to grind bevels on a couple of sides of the u-joint body because it was too thick. Too thick because the body had strengthening ridges cast into it. The OEM u-joints are thin enough to easily slide in/out of position for install. The Spicer 7166X u-joints are 1-1/16 inches thick and the OEM u-joints are exactly 1 inch thick.



Once I ground the bevels, the 7166X u-joints would then slide into place allowing both end caps to be pressed on. But even still, these did not fit properly, and I ended up partially crushing/deforming the plastic grease retaining seals on the caps. Removing the 7166X u-joints resulted in the end caps cracking and disintegrating before they would fully pop out..."
Strange. Are you able to get the BOM number from the axle tube right by the diff? There should be both a BOM # and a date code stamped there if I remember right.

If you can get that, I can hit up the Dana tech guys and see what they say. They need that BOM # though, usually it's 6 numerical digits.

Worst comes to worst though, you could just replace the whole shaft assembly. A few more bucks but it would solve your issue anyway...
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Old 05-03-2019, 07:51 AM
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Strange. Are you able to get the BOM number from the axle tube right by the diff? There should be both a BOM # and a date code stamped there if I remember right.

If you can get that, I can hit up the Dana tech guys and see what they say. They need that BOM # though, usually it's 6 numerical digits.

Worst comes to worst though, you could just replace the whole shaft assembly. A few more bucks but it would solve your issue anyway...
Thank you, I will check that today.

Yes. the whole shaft assembly is in the plan if the new U joint doesn't fit neither.

As I am in canada, only dealer has the assembly in hand, all the other shops need to wait for 3 weeks to get the aftermarket assembly whatever the brand is, this makes me think a little bit, I don't know if I want to go back to the factory shaft again.
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Old 05-03-2019, 11:16 AM   #6
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Thank you, I will check that today.



Yes. the whole shaft assembly is in the plan if the new U joint doesn't fit neither.



As I am in canada, only dealer has the assembly in hand, all the other shops need to wait for 3 weeks to get the aftermarket assembly whatever the brand is, this makes me think a little bit, I don't know if I want to go back to the factory shaft again.
Dana produces the shafts for Mopar/Chrysler so in theory it should be the same thing. The price, however, is most likely going to be better from a regular WD than from a Jeep dealer as long as they are a direct Dana distributor, and it isn't passing through 3 or 4 sets of hands before it gets to you.
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Old 05-03-2019, 11:24 AM   #7
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Been there myself and just replaced the entire shaft.

Upgrade opportunity.
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Old 05-03-2019, 12:14 PM
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Thank you, I will check that today.



Yes. the whole shaft assembly is in the plan if the new U joint doesn't fit neither.



As I am in canada, only dealer has the assembly in hand, all the other shops need to wait for 3 weeks to get the aftermarket assembly whatever the brand is, this makes me think a little bit, I don't know if I want to go back to the factory shaft again.
Dana produces the shafts for Mopar/Chrysler so in theory it should be the same thing. The price, however, is most likely going to be better from a regular WD than from a Jeep dealer as long as they are a direct Dana distributor, and it isn't passing through 3 or 4 sets of hands before it gets to you.
I checked the tube, there’s no number stamped on it but I found a sticker with “PN2018182-2
7M1854AC15KL” on the tube to the passenger side of the differential and “2006143”on the bottom back of the differential.

It should be, just no store have the shaft in stock. So I’m think of getting a aftermarket shaft instead the OEM. Doing my work online to see which one I’m going to be interested
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Old 05-03-2019, 12:14 PM
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Been there myself and just replaced the entire shaft.

Upgrade opportunity.
Which shaft did you get?
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Old 05-03-2019, 12:26 PM   #10
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Which shaft did you get?
Warranty --- stocker.
I nearly had the dealer talked into using the Mopar double cardan shaft, the one that comes with their 2" lift.
They got it but it didn't come with the adapter ---- and there's no Mopar part number readily available.
So they escalated to Mother Jeep and she sent an OE.

It's part of a thread on here somewhere. @Fuzzylogic y2k helped out a bit.

Found the thread:
https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/m...t-1216009.html

Really is a PITA that the u-joints aren't rebuildable though.
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Old 05-03-2019, 04:06 PM   #11
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I have a 2012 Jku. I went through the same thing. The dealer sold me the u joint for which the computer said was the right part. Had it installed and it didnít last 24 hours. Started flopping on the highway. They ran my vin and said it was right. Upon further looking they changed the front shafts have way through the build year. The computers does not show that. The proper u joint was Mopar#68145053AA.
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Old 05-03-2019, 04:30 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Hilldweller View Post
Warranty --- stocker.
I nearly had the dealer talked into using the Mopar double cardan shaft, the one that comes with their 2" lift.
They got it but it didn't come with the adapter ---- and there's no Mopar part number readily available.
So they escalated to Mother Jeep and she sent an OE.

It's part of a thread on here somewhere. @Fuzzylogic y2k helped out a bit.

Found the thread:
https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/m...t-1216009.html

Really is a PITA that the u-joints aren't rebuildable though.
So that thread looks to be about driveshafts, not axle shafts. We are talking about front wheel joints/shafts here. Or so I thought.
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Old 05-03-2019, 04:32 PM   #13
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I have a 2012 Jku. I went through the same thing. The dealer sold me the u joint for which the computer said was the right part. Had it installed and it didnít last 24 hours. Started flopping on the highway. They ran my vin and said it was right. Upon further looking they changed the front shafts have way through the build year. The computers does not show that. The proper u joint was Mopar#68145053AA.
This is great info. I want to see if there is any cross for this on the Spicer side. There should be unless for some reason its "proprietary", meaning Dana makes it but only Mopar can sell it. That could be the case. Lemme do some digging. I want to know what's up here.
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Old 05-03-2019, 07:03 PM
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I have a 2012 Jku. I went through the same thing. The dealer sold me the u joint for which the computer said was the right part. Had it installed and it didn’t last 24 hours. Started flopping on the highway. They ran my vin and said it was right. Upon further looking they changed the front shafts have way through the build year. The computers does not show that. The proper u joint was Mopar#68145053AA.
If it can be installed easily and flopping I guess the dealer gave you the small one for DANA 30, I don’t know the part number at dealership but the spicer’s number is 5-760x. So the proper part number you listed above is the one you are using right now? I should call dealer to check the number. Yesterday I went to the dealer and they showed me exactly the same u joint of 5-7166X, I was so frustrated and didn’t check the part number.
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Old 05-03-2019, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Peter T View Post
I have a 2012 Jku. I went through the same thing. The dealer sold me the u joint for which the computer said was the right part. Had it installed and it didn’t last 24 hours. Started flopping on the highway. They ran my vin and said it was right. Upon further looking they changed the front shafts have way through the build year. The computers does not show that. The proper u joint was Mopar#68145053AA.
This is great info. I want to see if there is any cross for this on the Spicer side. There should be unless for some reason its "proprietary", meaning Dana makes it but only Mopar can sell it. That could be the case. Lemme do some digging. I want to know what's up here.
I called the Spicer customer service number 1-800-621-8084 today, the guy who picked up the phone told me this is the right one as long as my Jeep is a rubicon, and never had any feedback about the fitting problem with this U joint. I confirmed twice and the guy was kind of frustrated and told me that he had the rubicon and the same joint on his Jeep. I finally finished the phone without saying too much since all I want to know is if I got the right u joint, and they are 100%sure it is.
I reordered one axle shaft since I don’t want to spend too much time dealing with the wrong “correct” u joint. Wish when I’m planning to lift my Jeep, I have enough time to wait for all the good aftermarket parts
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Old 05-03-2019, 07:14 PM
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Oh, forgot to mention, my old u joint is also from spicer, cause the brand name is stamped on the cap
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Old 05-03-2019, 07:24 PM   #17
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Did you try compressing the new u-joint in a vice to measure it? Sometimes just a little bit of grease in there will make it stick out further. In your pic it doesn't look like the caps are seated all the way.
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:04 PM
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Did you try compressing the new u-joint in a vice to measure it? Sometimes just a little bit of grease in there will make it stick out further. In your pic it doesn't look like the caps are seated all the way.
I know I can compress it a little bit. But I am sure it will be bigger than my old one. Just compare the caliber position on the 2 u joints. In the post I quoted someone’s situation, and I think he over compressed the cap and broke the white seal part.
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:40 PM   #19
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You shouldn't be able to over compress the cap as it will stop when the stem hits the bottom of the caps bore.
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Old 05-03-2019, 11:50 PM
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You shouldn't be able to over compress the cap as it will stop when the stem hits the bottom of the caps bore.
Oh, If so I am sure that the U joint is bigger than my old one.

I tried to pinch it, and I felt some resistance, so I am afraid that I am going to over compress, but if like you said the cap will stop when the stem reach the bottom of the cap, then I think it was the time I felt the resistance.

and in my picture the original u Joint is not been fully compressed as well
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Old 05-04-2019, 05:21 AM   #21
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So that thread looks to be about driveshafts, not axle shafts. We are talking about front wheel joints/shafts here. Or so I thought.
Ha. That's what I get for learning to read off the back of Captain Crunch boxes.
Having gotten the shaft recently, I see shaft, I think driveshaft. No other shaft in the Hilldweller brain...

Hilldweller go back to fixing clothes dryer now.
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Old 05-04-2019, 06:09 AM   #22
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I think the "unserviceable" came from a change to the front axle shaft mid production. U cannot find the story on it though, but I had to research when I had my 08 Rubicon. They switched to bigger yokes to use the bigger joint, and when people needed them serviced, they replaced the entire shaft to accomodate the larger joint.
Sorry I can't find the info yet though. Not that it helps, but it is likely why this happened and why the dealer said it.

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Old 05-04-2019, 07:17 AM   #23
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Oh, If so I am sure that the U joint is bigger than my old one.

I tried to pinch it, and I felt some resistance, so I am afraid that I am going to over compress, but if like you said the cap will stop when the stem reach the bottom of the cap, then I think it was the time I felt the resistance.

and in my picture the original u Joint is not been fully compressed as well
I usually install my u-joints with a C-clamp. I've often thought the cap was seated all the way on the stem when it wasn't and using the C-clamp I can hear a pop when the grease moves to let the cap seat all the way. I'm not trying to say you're wrong just saying what my experiences installing numerous u-joints has been. I've also seen OEM axle shafts where the ears were bent closer together from being beat on with a hammer to remove a u-joint. If I were in your position I'd take the old u-joint to a parts counter and try to match it up with another Spicer of the same size to figure out what you have there. Good luck and keep us posted on the results.
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Old 05-04-2019, 07:56 AM   #24
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If I were in your position I'd take the old u-joint to a parts counter and try to match it up with another Spicer of the same size to figure out what you have there. Good luck and keep us posted on the results.
This is what I was going to post if no one had by the time I read all of the posts. If there is a GOOD parts store where you live take the old joint in. They can measure and get the right joint. They will need cap dia. , Cross length, inside or outside clips. I'm not fully awake and my eyes aren't functioning well enough to look at your pics closely on my phone screen. One thing we would run into now and then when things just didn't measure out like they should is one of the little needle bearings (may not be the proper term) inside the cap may fall out of place and not allow the cap to seat all of the way down on the stem.

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Old 05-04-2019, 08:28 AM   #25
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Oh, forgot to mention, my old u joint is also from spicer, cause the brand name is stamped on the cap
.

Here is my original factory u joint. Then the new Morpar u joint both say spicer. Click image for larger version

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Old 05-04-2019, 08:34 AM   #26
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This is the u joint that the computer said was the right one for my 2012 Jku
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Old 05-04-2019, 09:02 AM
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.

Here is my original factory u joint. Then the new Morpar u joint both say spicer. Attachment 4147423
Is the new joint is the one you mentioned above, and currently using, 68145053AA?

Seems the characters on the cap is different than the one I got. 5-7166x shows spicer H F P3, the old one shows Spicer E B or G B

Can you by change have a look of the characters on the cross section? on the 5-7166x I got, it shows SPR1411
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Old 05-04-2019, 09:03 AM
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Ha. That's what I get for learning to read off the back of Captain Crunch boxes.
Having gotten the shaft recently, I see shaft, I think driveshaft. No other shaft in the Hilldweller brain...

Hilldweller go back to fixing clothes dryer now.
I tried to change the title by can not find the EDIT button
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Old 05-04-2019, 09:09 AM
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I usually install my u-joints with a C-clamp. I've often thought the cap was seated all the way on the stem when it wasn't and using the C-clamp I can hear a pop when the grease moves to let the cap seat all the way. I'm not trying to say you're wrong just saying what my experiences installing numerous u-joints has been. I've also seen OEM axle shafts where the ears were bent closer together from being beat on with a hammer to remove a u-joint. If I were in your position I'd take the old u-joint to a parts counter and try to match it up with another Spicer of the same size to figure out what you have there. Good luck and keep us posted on the results.
Thank you for you suggestion, I will pay more attention when install it.

I know the bent ears is not my case cause I checked the inner shaft and the out shaft , they have the same gap between ears. I don't think I have a good luck to bent both of them to the same gap.

I took the old U joint to the store, but no luck, otherwise the same cap smaller cross section, other the same cross section and different cap size.
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Old 05-04-2019, 09:59 AM   #30
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I ran into this about four years ago. To solve it, I just grinded down the very edge of the Spicer 5-7166X until it slid into the yoke. I thought it was kinda hacky at the time, but it's lasted for four+ years and 100k+ miles since then, so I guess it worked out okay.

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