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Old 12-02-2019, 06:58 AM
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Cold rough idle and stall

Have a rough idle and stalling issue. Have a 16 jku with 31k miles, she’s an automatic, has remote start that I’ve been using for the cold mornings (Ohio in November and December). Once it iswarmed up, I put the key in, give it a second and put it in gear. Feels like a rough idle, idles down to about 500, either sputters - now from there it’ll bounce back up or stalls. Restarts and good to go. What do you guys thinking. TCC, TC, IAC, of course I’ve read so many things...shocker. Took the dealer 5 days to update my computer - avoiding taking it back for god knows how long

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Old 12-04-2019, 02:12 PM   #2
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any check engine lights?

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Old 12-07-2019, 01:06 PM   #3
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@Wallendr , this happens to me every winter and is getting worse. Any luck figuring it out? @nighowl2000 , unfortunately, there are no codes.
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Old 12-07-2019, 03:07 PM   #4
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Sounds like computer. Get a live data code reader on there and check out fuel trims.

Does it iron out eventually? Or every morning?
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Old 12-07-2019, 03:28 PM   #5
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try replacing both cam shaft sensors and the crankshaft one.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...00356&jsn=1642

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1652&jsn=1652 <=====order 2 (one on each head)
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Old 12-08-2019, 01:46 PM   #6
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@Wallendr

Be sure to test those sensors for proper resistance first. You’d be almost surely getting a code if those were failing.

Use QD Electrical Cleaner and clean the IAC, MAF sensors. Check the TPS for operation and resistance.

Pro-Tip: Use the heaviest possible driver for any throttle body screws. Those babies are in there. A little heat from a heat gun goes a long way. I’d take off the whole throttle body and get it on a bench. A 1/4 impact with a bit driver wouldn’t be a bad idea.
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Old 12-08-2019, 01:50 PM   #7
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try replacing both cam shaft sensors and the crankshaft one.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...00356&jsn=1642

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1652&jsn=1652 <=====order 2 (one on each head)
With all due respect, that’s horrible advice. That’s just throwing money and parts at the issue. At least recommend testing the parts for proper impedance.

Not saying that one of them couldn’t be bad, I understand your logic, but most of the time, a code would indicate the issue.
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Old 12-09-2019, 08:47 PM
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So far it’s bern every morning when it’s cold. Foot on the break first start of the day, put it in gear. Rough idles then cuts out - when the vehicle is driven for about 20 minutes , it’s smooths out. Replaced crankshaft sensor, cleaned MAP sensor and cleaned throttle body
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Old 12-09-2019, 08:50 PM
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Cleaned TPS not the MAP, no codes -
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Old 12-10-2019, 01:12 PM   #10
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So you can hook up a live data code reader and check TPS. See where it’s at at idle. Also checking fuel trims will help you see if it’s a fuel-air delivery issue.

I’ll look in my manual and see if I can find resistance and voltage values for the sensors. Resistances are easy to check, voltages require a backprobing of connectors.
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Old 12-10-2019, 01:20 PM   #11
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@Wallendr

Be sure to test those sensors for proper resistance first. You’d be almost surely getting a code if those were failing.

Use QD Electrical Cleaner and clean the IAC, MAF sensors. Check the TPS for operation and resistance.

Pro-Tip: Use the heaviest possible driver for any throttle body screws. Those babies are in there. A little heat from a heat gun goes a long way. I’d take off the whole throttle body and get it on a bench. A 1/4 impact with a bit driver wouldn’t be a bad idea.
The Pentastar uses a MAP sensor, not a Mass Airflow Sensor.

Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak at a wonky gasket?????? When it's cold, it's sucking in atmospheric air and when things warm up and expands, it "seals" up. Just throwing out some other ideas if you've replaced CPS and TPS.
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Old 12-10-2019, 03:55 PM   #12
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@Wallendr , there is another thread on this linked below, and it's 7 pages long with a lot of people sharing our problem. There were 1 or 2 who thought they may have helped the problem with a sensor change or throttle body change, but the conclusion seems to be clear that this is torque converter problem. One guy even linked where some organization identified the problems the torque converters are having. Sorry for the bad news. Feel free to read for yourself. https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/r...1895025-7.html
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Old 12-10-2019, 03:59 PM   #13
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@Wallendr , there is another thread on this linked below, and it's 7 pages long with a lot of people sharing our problem. There were 1 or 2 who thought they may have helped the problem with a sensor change or throttle body change, but the conclusion seems to be clear that this is torque converter problem. One guy even linked where some organization identified the problems the torque converters are having. Sorry for the bad news. Feel free to read for yourself. https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/r...1895025-7.html
Not saying you're wrong, but the OP here is not reporting some of the other symptoms that are being reported in the thread you linked to.
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Old 12-10-2019, 04:05 PM   #14
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@Wallendr , this happens to me every winter and is getting worse. Any luck figuring it out? @nighowl2000 , unfortunately, there are no codes.
Hi simplejeep,
Are you considering having your dealer take a look? If so, please send our team a PM. We would be happy to connect you with a Case Specialist to assist.
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Old 12-10-2019, 07:36 PM
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I’m dropping it off at the dealer on the 20th...so yea it’ll take forever with the holidays of course. Where would you begin to look for a vacuum leak/ bad gasket? I have two buddies who are “mechanics” saying it’s TC or the solenoid, obviously I’ll let the dealer handle the transmission issue since I have a warranty still...if it’s a faulty gasket I’d love to fix it myself and avoid the month without my Jeep ...

Guys thank you for the ideas, love being able to fix this stuff myself, wouldn’t even know where to begin with a leak/gasket
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Old 12-10-2019, 07:37 PM
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I am dropping it off at the dealer on the 20th...so yea it will ll take forever with the holidays of course. Where would you begin to look for a vacuum leak/ bad gasket? I have two buddies who are Mechanics pointing towards TC or the solenoid, obviously I will let the dealer handle the transmission issue since I have a warranty still...if it is a faulty gasket I would love to fix it myself and avoid the month without my Jeep ...
Guys thank you for the ideas, love being able to fix this stuff myself, would not even know where to begin with a leak/gasket
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Old 12-11-2019, 12:17 AM   #17
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The Pentastar uses a MAP sensor, not a Mass Airflow Sensor.

Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak at a wonky gasket?????? When it's cold, it's sucking in atmospheric air and when things warm up and expands, it "seals" up. Just throwing out some other ideas if you've replaced CPS and TPS.
Tomayto, towmato :wink:
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Old 12-11-2019, 12:10 PM   #18
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Sounds like your torque converter is shot. That is exactly what happened to me with my 2013. Here's a thread about it:



https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/r...t-1895025.html
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Old 12-11-2019, 01:58 PM   #19
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I am dropping it off at the dealer on the 20th...so yea it will ll take forever with the holidays of course. Where would you begin to look for a vacuum leak/ bad gasket? I have two buddies who are Mechanics pointing towards TC or the solenoid, obviously I will let the dealer handle the transmission issue since I have a warranty still...if it is a faulty gasket I would love to fix it myself and avoid the month without my Jeep ...
Guys thank you for the ideas, love being able to fix this stuff myself, would not even know where to begin with a leak/gasket
During this issue, do you have to really stand on the brakes to prevent vehicle from moving?
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Old 12-11-2019, 05:13 PM
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I do not have to stand on the breaks - just cold it will rough idle then just drop and shut off. It will restart fine and when I get it in gear, it sounds like it has a rough time and then moves very fast when I release my break

When it is warmed up, it will act “normal” slow roll when foot is off the break before the gas is applied, smooth transitions
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Old 12-12-2019, 01:04 PM   #21
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I do not have to stand on the breaks - just cold it will rough idle then just drop and shut off. It will restart fine and when I get it in gear, it sounds like it has a rough time and then moves very fast when I release my break

When it is warmed up, it will act “normal” slow roll when foot is off the break before the gas is applied, smooth transitions
Hello Wallendr,
Have you already brought this concern to the attention of your dealership? If not, we kindly suggest connecting with your dealer for a diagnostic appointment, as they will be in the best position to assist. Let us know if you decide to address this concern with your dealer, as we will gladly assist you during that process.
Laura
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