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Old 05-20-2019, 12:47 AM
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Core 4x4 Control Arms and Track Bars - Full Set

Breaking news! I just got a note from Allen at Allen's Offroad! This is so cool, I love what he does for us here on WF.

Through the month of June, there is "Free Hardware" with the purchase of any Tier 2, Tier 3, or Tier 4 full set of arms for the following vehicles: Use coupon code "DISCOHRDWR" at checkout. A $60.00 value.

Wrnagler JL/JLU
Wrangler JK/JKU
Wrangler TJ/LJ
Grand Cherokee 93-98



I had an opportunity to buy a full set of the Core 4x4 Tier 3 Adjustable Control Arms and Track bars... I had to jump on it. I worked with Allen from Allen's Offroad and was able to take advantage of their new custom color option. Yes, they matched the color on my 2012 Cosmos Blue! Allen has always been very helpful and I have bought many items from him and will continue to do so...

How about a little eye candy!



The Tier 3 arms have their flex poly taper bushings on the frame side and the tried and true Currie Forged Johnny Joints on the axle side. This is a great all around setup with excellent articulation and long term reliability.




They do have a Tier 2 that uses a rubber bushing and the Johnny Joint insert on the axle side for a little cost savings and their top of the line Tier 4 arms with the Johnny Joint insert on the frame side and the Forged Johnny Joint on the axle side for MAXIMUM articulation and performance. This would be a go-to product for short arm systems like those in the TJ's and LJ's.

Made in the USA!

And one of the reasons I bought the Core 4x4 arms, the WARRANTY!

"You manage to break it, we replace it" Warranty

CORE 4x4 offers three levels of aggressive heavy duty control arms. All our control arms are built with high quality materials right here in the USA and carry the same, “you manage to break it, we replace it” warranty.


But back to the Tier 3's... Here's their spec's:

Wrangler JK 2007-2018 Complete Adjustable Control Arm Set

Includes 2 TIER THREE Lower Front Adjustable Control Arms.
Includes 2 TIER THREE Lower Rear Adjustable Control Arms.
Includes 2 TIER THREE Front Upper Adjustable Control Arms.
Includes 2 TIER THREE Rear Upper Adjustable Control Arms.
Lowers Built with 1-3/4 OD 5/16 wall DOM Tube.
Uppers Built with 1-1/2 OD 5/16 wall DOM Tube.
Flex Poly tapered bushings.
Top of the line Currie Johnny Joints
Your choice of 8 colors to customize your rig! *

Plus the new custom color option to put any color you want on your arms.

This Complete TIER THREE Control Arm set can be added to any lift kit ranging from stock height to a full 8 inches of lift.

Our Flex Poly bushings have a taper on each halve of the bushing allowing for 20+ degrees of flex from the FIXED end. This feature alone increases your ride quality and flex at the same time.


They are packed really well for shipping. They have this down to a science. Just be patient when going through the shrink and bubble wrap and they will be perfect without a mark on them.

Immediately I noticed the awesome color match finish and a favorite feature of mine, the bend in the front lowers to allow for extra tire clearance.





You notice immediately how beefy these arms and track bars are built. Shown here next to my Superlift rear track bar. You can see the Core 4x4 bar is larger diameter and weighs significantly more.



I broke out my standard arm lengths for 2.5-3" lift and went to work. The guys at Absolute Offroad in North Phoenix put it up on the lift and here we go:










A couple of notes... The rear track bar is as short as I can make it and it just centers the axle. I do have a very tall rear track bar bracket that over corrects roll center.

Also, my normal front upper length is 18-7/8 and the Core 4x4 arms are 19" at their shortest... So I needed to add 1/8" to my normal lower length of 23" to make them 23-1/8". This gave us 5.2° and 5.4° caster. Works for me.

I do need to get it on a forklift and flex it out to make sure that my diff covers are clear, etc. We did a very long night run with some decent crawling and this morning showed no issues after inspection... This is important, because my JKS front track bar WAS hitting my diff cover. The Core 4x4 Front track bar has a more aggressive bend for clearance.

More to follow as I close the loop on flexing it out, etc. Plus some trail photos...

Check them out for yourself!

https://www.allensoffroad.com/suspen...4-Control-Arms

If you are interested, PM Allen at @AOR and ask for a quote. He often has deals for forum members.

https://www.core4x4.com/product/comp...-arm-set-jk-2/

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Old 05-20-2019, 07:31 AM   #2
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Man, those are nice. Congrats!
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Old 05-20-2019, 11:19 AM
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Man, those are nice. Congrats!
Thanks! Really nice products. The night crawl we did was Backway to Crown King. Left the house at 5pm and got home at 4am. Unfortunately, night crawls aren't the best for pictures.

This gives you an idea on the some of the climbs... Day time shot of Sluice.



After a wash, I crawled under for a more detailed look and found no evidence of any contact with components. Very happy about that. All look perfect.

I've done Synergy arms, all 3 of Teraflex's arms, Metalcloaks and most recently had Rancho Geometry brackets. The "drive" going from the brackets to these arms changed a little. Most notably is the steering effort. The steering feel is heavier with the arms. Caster is about the same, so it's interesting... Wife shrugged her shoulders, I think I like it.

As for a comparison in the arms? These and the Metalcloaks ride the best... The Teraflex Alpine arms are super easy to adjust, but it's a set it and leave it adjustment, so no issues there. The Core 4x4 arms will be less expensive and Allen often has a discount available.. Awesome upgrade!

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Old 05-20-2019, 11:32 AM   #4
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I've got Core 4x4 Tier 3 front upper and lowers. I'll eventually get around to doing rear upper and lowers, but I'm not in a big hurry to do it. I'm running JKS front and rear adjustable track bars, and while I'm sure the Core 4x4 track bars are beefier, I see no need to replace the JKS in the near future.


I do love those front control arms though, and the standard red powdercoat matches my Flame Red paint close enough that unless you take them off and hold them right next to a body panel, you can't see the difference.
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Old 05-20-2019, 12:41 PM   #5
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I have the CORE 4x4 LCA's and their front track bar, good quality stuff. All of my suspension stuff has come from Allen's Off Road. Great service/communication and fast shipping.
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Old 05-20-2019, 01:07 PM
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I've got Core 4x4 Tier 3 front upper and lowers. I'll eventually get around to doing rear upper and lowers, but I'm not in a big hurry to do it. I'm running JKS front and rear adjustable track bars, and while I'm sure the Core 4x4 track bars are beefier, I see no need to replace the JKS in the near future.


I do love those front control arms though, and the standard red powdercoat matches my Flame Red paint close enough that unless you take them off and hold them right next to a body panel, you can't see the difference.
You'll like the rears as much as the fronts. I loved my JKS front bar until I put on the G2 differential cover. Then, the bend shape on the JKS bar was not compatible with the new diff cover. You can see in the photo below, I put an oval around where they would make contact. That is one of the reasons I made the move to the Core 4x4. My rear Superlift bar did exactly what it was supposed to do and the ability to adjust shorter than stock was very helpful when my lift was a little lower. I decided that I was matching them all up so I would change it too.



Quote:
Originally Posted by rollinrob View Post
I have the CORE 4x4 LCA's and their front track bar, good quality stuff. All of my suspension stuff has come from Allen's Off Road. Great service/communication and fast shipping.
Nice to see other people having the same quality service from @AOR . Allen does a great job and really cares about us Jeepers! A perfect example was how he went completely out of his way to help everyone with Pro Comp headlight issues, even if he didn't sell them to you. Over and above, for sure.
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Old 05-20-2019, 05:50 PM   #7
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Old 06-18-2019, 09:20 AM
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Breaking news! I just got a note from Allen at Allen's Offroad! This is so cool, I love what he does for us here on WF.

Through the month of June, there is "Free Hardware" with the purchase of any Tier 2, Tier 3, or Tier 4 full set of arms for the following vehicles: Use coupon code "DISCOHRDWR" at checkout. A $60.00 value.

Wrnagler JL/JLU
Wrangler JK/JKU
Wrangler TJ/LJ
Grand Cherokee 93-98
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Rugged Ridge XHD
bumper - Yukon Gears - G2 Diff Covers - Pro Comp 8186 - Milestar Patagonia 35's - Teraflex BRK
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Old 06-18-2019, 11:43 PM   #9
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Old 06-19-2019, 08:08 AM   #10
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The Tier 3 arms have their flex poly taper bushings on the frame side and the tried and true Currie Forged Johnny Joints on the axle side. This is a great all around setup with excellent articulation and long term reliability.




They do have a Tier 2 that uses a rubber bushing and the Johnny Joint insert on the axle side for a little cost savings and their top of the line Tier 4 arms with the Johnny Joint insert on the frame side and the Forged Johnny Joint on the axle side for MAXIMUM articulation and performance.

Immediately I noticed the awesome color match finish and a favorite feature of mine, the bend in the front lowers to allow for extra tire clearance.



I broke out my standard arm lengths for 2.5-3" lift and went to work. The guys at Absolute Offroad in North Phoenix put it up on the lift and here we go:









Maybe it's different on the Tier 3, but on the Tier 2, the front LCAs mount with the Johnny Joint on the frame side, this is according to Core4x4. It would make sense that your Johnny Joint also goes to frame side and the poly bushing to the axle.

Do yours need to be flipped?

You may want to inquire about your rears as well, as it looks like @Yreka has all his rear arms with Johnny Joints to the frame.
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Old 06-19-2019, 08:19 AM   #11
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That's some pretty right there!
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Old 06-19-2019, 10:18 AM
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Maybe it's different on the Tier 3, but on the Tier 2, the front LCAs mount with the Johnny Joint on the frame side, this is according to Core4x4. It would make sense that your Johnny Joint also goes to frame side and the poly bushing to the axle.

Do yours need to be flipped?

You may want to inquire about your rears as well, as it looks like @Yreka has all his rear arms with Johnny Joints to the frame.
That's an interesting point... There very well could be a difference in the Tier 2 and Tier 3 designs. I'm confident in this installation as all of the labeling and bends are in the correct spots. My assessment is based on the bends for tire clearance on the front lower and rear upper control arms. Thank you!
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Rugged Ridge XHD
bumper - Yukon Gears - G2 Diff Covers - Pro Comp 8186 - Milestar Patagonia 35's - Teraflex BRK
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Old 06-19-2019, 04:18 PM   #13
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That's an interesting point... There very well could be a difference in the Tier 2 and Tier 3 designs. I'm confident in this installation as all of the labeling and bends are in the correct spots. My assessment is based on the bends for tire clearance on the front lower and rear upper control arms. Thank you!
The Tier 3 front LCAs are basically the same as the Tier 2, just thicker DOM and forged Johnny's instead of welded Johnny's. If you look at both, you'll notice the bend in both versions is closer to the poly/rubber bushing. So mounting the arms with the poly bushing in the axle provides more tire clearance than with the Johnny in the axle.

As for the labeling, when I received mine, I had to put the decals on myself, but the proper orientation is the way Yreka has them, with the decal visible between the frame and the tire. Yours are behind the tire.
So you need to swap sides, not just flip them, then the joints will be in the proper location and the decals visible.

I installed mine over three years ago, but emailed Core4x4 before I did, they were quick to respond and told me the JJ goes in the frame. Might be worth shooting them an email to confirm orientation.
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Old 08-06-2019, 05:55 PM   #14
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The Tier 3 front LCAs are basically the same as the Tier 2, just thicker DOM and forged Johnny's instead of welded Johnny's. If you look at both, you'll notice the bend in both versions is closer to the poly/rubber bushing. So mounting the arms with the poly bushing in the axle provides more tire clearance than with the Johnny in the axle.

As for the labeling, when I received mine, I had to put the decals on myself, but the proper orientation is the way Yreka has them, with the decal visible between the frame and the tire. Yours are behind the tire.
So you need to swap sides, not just flip them, then the joints will be in the proper location and the decals visible.

I installed mine over three years ago, but emailed Core4x4 before I did, they were quick to respond and told me the JJ goes in the frame. Might be worth shooting them an email to confirm orientation.


I was told the same thing. Jj to the frame. Directly from Core 4x4 tech.


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Old 12-04-2019, 10:17 AM
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I have put them through quite a bit in the last few months, rock crawling, overlanding, etc... The most recent was 150 miles on the El Camino del Diablo trail. They are fantastic arms...

I have switched the arms to JJ on the frame and fully tested flex. No difference. But I can see where tires in the 38"-40" size would have more clearance this way. So all good by me.

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Rugged Ridge XHD
bumper - Yukon Gears - G2 Diff Covers - Pro Comp 8186 - Milestar Patagonia 35's - Teraflex BRK
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Old 12-04-2019, 03:31 PM   #16
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I have put them through quite a bit in the last few months, rock crawling, overlanding, etc... The most recent was 150 miles on the El Camino del Diablo trail. They are fantastic arms...

I have switched the arms to JJ on the frame and fully tested flex. No difference. But I can see where tires in the 38"-40" size would have more clearance this way. So all good by me.


I noticed the grease zerks for the rears in the previous photos were oriented downward. Are/were they mounted correctly? Seems like a prime piece to get sheared off while wheeling. Any issues?
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Old 12-05-2019, 07:44 AM
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I noticed the grease zerks for the rears in the previous photos were oriented downward. Are/were they mounted correctly? Seems like a prime piece to get sheared off while wheeling. Any issues?
I don't recall which way I have them now... In the rear I had all of the Zerks facing upward, but in the front you can't access them. When I get home tonight I'll check it out, because I don't remember. While they were flipped, I didn't ever hit my control arm mounts so there wasn't any issues. But they have been hit in the past...
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Rugged Ridge XHD
bumper - Yukon Gears - G2 Diff Covers - Pro Comp 8186 - Milestar Patagonia 35's - Teraflex BRK
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:37 AM   #18
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I noticed the grease zerks for the rears in the previous photos were oriented downward. Are/were they mounted correctly? Seems like a prime piece to get sheared off while wheeling. Any issues?
Mine are all pointed down. If you point them up they become nearly impossible to get to and I don't want that. Zerks are made of a rather soft material so if you happen to hit one and knock it off it usually just pulls out and all you need to do is clean out the hole and screw in another one. I've not hit one yet on the Core arms but it hasn't been from lack of trying. When it happens, and it likely will someday, I don't expect it to be a big issue. Looks like I'll easily grease it many times before it happens anyway.

JJs to the frame is correct orientation.

When I put mine on a while back they were the only thing I did at that time. The first time the wife and I got in and took off down the road we hadn't gone more than a couple miles when she looked at me and said "I've no idea what you just did to this thing but it rides so much better it's not funny." She's not an off-roader and couldn't care less about the Jeep and what I do with it so I have to consider her statement to be quite a testimonial. Personally, off-road handling and flexibility took a major step forward and made this one of the best changes I've made to the Jeep.
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Old 12-05-2019, 10:44 AM
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Mine are all pointed down. If you point them up they become nearly impossible to get to and I don't want that. Zerks are made of a rather soft material so if you happen to hit one and knock it off it usually just pulls out and all you need to do is clean out the hole and screw in another one. I've not hit one yet on the Core arms but it hasn't been from lack of trying. When it happens, and it likely will someday, I don't expect it to be a big issue. Looks like I'll easily grease it many times before it happens anyway.

JJs to the frame is correct orientation.

When I put mine on a while back they were the only thing I did at that time. The first time the wife and I got in and took off down the road we hadn't gone more than a couple miles when she looked at me and said "I've no idea what you just did to this thing but it rides so much better it's not funny." She's not an off-roader and couldn't care less about the Jeep and what I do with it so I have to consider her statement to be quite a testimonial. Personally, off-road handling and flexibility took a major step forward and made this one of the best changes I've made to the Jeep.
I have a 90 degree coupler for my grease gun and it allows really easy access to tight quarters zerk fittings... Works perfect in the rear on those pointed up.

https://smile.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lub...s%2C236&sr=8-1
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bumper - Yukon Gears - G2 Diff Covers - Pro Comp 8186 - Milestar Patagonia 35's - Teraflex BRK
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Old 12-05-2019, 11:27 AM   #20
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I ended up buying a bunch of zerk fittings at 45, 60, and 90 degrees and using what worked best for a given location.
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Old 12-05-2019, 02:17 PM   #21
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I have a 90 degree coupler for my grease gun and it allows really easy access to tight quarters zerk fittings... Works perfect in the rear on those pointed up.

https://smile.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lub...s%2C236&sr=8-1
I have some of those also and they really come in handy for a lot of things but in this application it's just easier to point them down so they're easy to get to. Hell, at my age I've even started using a battery powered grease gun.
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Old 12-05-2019, 03:14 PM
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I know @bobchase picked up a track bar for his JK and was really pleased with the outcome. Mentioned that he and his wife could both feel a difference over the stock bar.

Now looking at track bars for my LJ.
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Old 12-06-2019, 07:29 AM   #23
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just tried core 4x4's website as well as allens offroad and they appear to be broken right now. core doesnt show any jk or jl products and allens offroad doesnt even work at all.
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Old 12-06-2019, 08:44 AM
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just tried core 4x4's website as well as allens offroad and they appear to be broken right now. core doesnt show any jk or jl products and allens offroad doesnt even work at all.
Same... Another forum I use is down too. Let's blame Russia.
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2006 LJ Rubicon - Solar Yellow - Very Stock'ish - The Press Casual LJ-R build
2012 JKU Sahara - Pro Comp LED Headlights - PRS Audio mod- SWS - GraBars - Bestop Cargo Cover
- Mopar 2" Frankenlift - Teraflex Falcon Shocks - RE TB/Brackets - JKS mount/Bilstein stabilizer -
Rugged Ridge XHD
bumper - Yukon Gears - G2 Diff Covers - Pro Comp 8186 - Milestar Patagonia 35's - Teraflex BRK
- TORQ Locker - 1310 Driveshaft - PowerTrax Grip Pro - Full Core 4x4 Control Arms and Track Bars
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Old 12-06-2019, 11:21 AM   #25
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It was working yesterday. I checked it out then. I bet it comes back soon.
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Old 12-06-2019, 03:51 PM   #26
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Core's site is back up but not AOR. Still a couple others I visit are down. Strange>
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Old 12-15-2019, 12:39 PM   #27
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I just ordered a complete set of Tier 3 arms. My Jeep is lifted roughly 3.5" with 35" tires. I've done a lot of work to this 2007 Rubicon but I'm still new to Wranglers. I also have a tie rod, track bar and drag link from Steer Smarts sitting in the garage waiting to go on. One thing I'm still not clear on is how to properly adjust the control arms once I have them on. Anyone have any tips on how to do that? I've read several things but nothing has so far made it clear what the optimum angles and adjustments are and how to achieve those.
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Old 12-15-2019, 09:05 PM
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I just ordered a complete set of Tier 3 arms. My Jeep is lifted roughly 3.5" with 35" tires. I've done a lot of work to this 2007 Rubicon but I'm still new to Wranglers. I also have a tie rod, track bar and drag link from Steer Smarts sitting in the garage waiting to go on. One thing I'm still not clear on is how to properly adjust the control arms once I have them on. Anyone have any tips on how to do that? I've read several things but nothing has so far made it clear what the optimum angles and adjustments are and how to achieve those.
Excellent choice, you'll be happy with those. As for the steering, just match your current lengths. You can fine tune toe, etc. but you are going to want a full alignment anyways after full install and they will set toe. I'll give my alignment recommendations below.

These are the lengths I use for 3-3.5" lifts and they are really close, but every Jeep is a little different so fine tuning is always recommended.

These are center of eye to center of eye.

Front Upper - 18-7/8
Front Lower - 23-1/16

Rear Upper - 18-5/16
Rear Lower - 20-1/4

As for alignment, I like .09 toe per side for a total toe of .18.

Caster as close to 5° as possible, but between 4.5 and 5.5 is great.
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2006 LJ Rubicon - Solar Yellow - Very Stock'ish - The Press Casual LJ-R build
2012 JKU Sahara - Pro Comp LED Headlights - PRS Audio mod- SWS - GraBars - Bestop Cargo Cover
- Mopar 2" Frankenlift - Teraflex Falcon Shocks - RE TB/Brackets - JKS mount/Bilstein stabilizer -
Rugged Ridge XHD
bumper - Yukon Gears - G2 Diff Covers - Pro Comp 8186 - Milestar Patagonia 35's - Teraflex BRK
- TORQ Locker - 1310 Driveshaft - PowerTrax Grip Pro - Full Core 4x4 Control Arms and Track Bars
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Old 12-15-2019, 11:42 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Pressurized View Post
Excellent choice, you'll be happy with those. As for the steering, just match your current lengths. You can fine tune toe, etc. but you are going to want a full alignment anyways after full install and they will set toe. I'll give my alignment recommendations below.

These are the lengths I use for 3-3.5" lifts and they are really close, but every Jeep is a little different so fine tuning is always recommended.

These are center of eye to center of eye.

Front Upper - 18-7/8
Front Lower - 23-1/16

Rear Upper - 18-5/16
Rear Lower - 20-1/4

As for alignment, I like .09 toe per side for a total toe of .18.

Caster as close to 5° as possible, but between 4.5 and 5.5 is great.
Thank you. I assume these lengths are good for a 2 door? Really appreciate the help.
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Old 12-15-2019, 11:50 PM
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Thank you. I assume these lengths are good for a 2 door? Really appreciate the help.
I'm going to say yes... But, the difference is the length of the rear driveshaft. That may give you a bit different pinion angle. So use the rear lower length and if you need to adjust the uppers to give you zero rear pinion angle, make that change.
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2006 LJ Rubicon - Solar Yellow - Very Stock'ish - The Press Casual LJ-R build
2012 JKU Sahara - Pro Comp LED Headlights - PRS Audio mod- SWS - GraBars - Bestop Cargo Cover
- Mopar 2" Frankenlift - Teraflex Falcon Shocks - RE TB/Brackets - JKS mount/Bilstein stabilizer -
Rugged Ridge XHD
bumper - Yukon Gears - G2 Diff Covers - Pro Comp 8186 - Milestar Patagonia 35's - Teraflex BRK
- TORQ Locker - 1310 Driveshaft - PowerTrax Grip Pro - Full Core 4x4 Control Arms and Track Bars
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