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Old 10-12-2018, 08:48 PM
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Critique my overhaul/upgrade plan

Pls critique my overhaul & upgrade plan. Need guidance on replacements & aftermarker parts. Did a consolidated thread rather than 50 small ones....hope this works

Could use some guidance on parts & mfrs: Mopar, Crown, Omix, Napa for the following list. (This is going on a 2007 3.8 JKU Rubi)

Thinking of Mopar for all, but there is a hell of a premium

All Coolant Hoses
Serp Belt (Pulley & Tensioner just replaced)
Full Seals - top, door, rear gate, windshield (tired of all the damn water)
Thermostat
Throttle Body Gasket -
Spark plug wires
PCV - Mopar - Latest version
Fluids (Amsoil everywhere, MOPAR coolant)

Clutch? Do it or wait?
- Still on OEM / original. Not slipping, just chattering a bit in cold. I do alot of towing. Thinking of going back to OEM

All components on engine are original except waterpump. Proactively replace anyting?

Rear Axle
Factory 10 Axle shafts

Brakes
Full brake job, rotors all around
TF Big Rotor Kit Rear, EBC Pads (already have TF front)
New SS Lines
Full fluid flush
Replace calipers?

Armor
Fuel Tank Skid - mfr?
- MC or Rockhard
Cross Member - mfr?
- MC or Rockhard
Diff Covers or Skids? -
- Looking at AEV Rear Pinion Skid w factory cover
- TF Front Diff Cover

Gearing & Tires:
Running 285s now w/ 4.1
Going to 35s now, maybe 37s Thinking about 4.56s...

New Lift - going to 3.5"
AEV, MC, or OME

Roof Rack
Rhino or Nebo or equiv...thoughts?

Rear Bumper & Tire Carrier
LoD Destroyer - Existing TF carrier does not hold a Titan Fuel Carrier & Spare without slipping

Full Redo of added electrical

Details:

I'm taking a week or so before thanksgiving to do a long list of maintenance items on my '07 JKU Rubi. 130k miles. 6sp She is mostly a work jeep - with lots of time in the spent in remote back country & off-road...so reliability is very important. Already have front winch & bumper, rear TF carrier

Existing Mods
Group 31 110aH Starting battery
100aH Aux Battery, Kisae B2DC & Solar MPPT
AEV Front Bumper & Warn Winch
Plenty of Lights
Mopar 2" lift - saggy & can't hold the weight
Comms gear (ham & commercial)

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Old 10-13-2018, 10:55 AM   #2
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Have you replaced your intake manifold, mine was leaking at gasket, mechanic got in there and told me he'd replace it, so I did.

Plug wires only? Do plugs and ignition coil too.

Pc valve can be a pita to get out. I was literally standing on my Jeep pulling as hard as I could w pliers. Worked on that for a half an hour. Learned a trick on the forum, came right out.

Personally, wouldn't touch the clutch.

Why are you replacing axle shafts? Are you doing the axle too? If you're going to 37s might go to a 60.

Leave the calipers, can always change those if needed.

I'm a huge fan of MC stuff. Think they got the best lift out there.

If you got the coin, aluminum on the undercarage.

Go to 37s you might do 5:13 or 4:88, check qtecs guide on that.

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Old 10-14-2018, 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by strmanglr View Post
Have you replaced your intake manifold, mine was leaking at gasket, mechanic got in there and told me he'd replace it, so I did.

Plug wires only? Do plugs and ignition coil too.

Pc valve can be a pita to get out. I was literally standing on my Jeep pulling as hard as I could w pliers. Worked on that for a half an hour. Learned a trick on the forum, came right out.

Personally, wouldn't touch the clutch.

Why are you replacing axle shafts? Are you doing the axle too? If you're going to 37s might go to a 60.

Leave the calipers, can always change those if needed.

I'm a huge fan of MC stuff. Think they got the best lift out there.

If you got the coin, aluminum on the undercarage.

Go to 37s you might do 5:13 or 4:88, check qtecs guide on that.
Thx for responding.

37s aren't a sure thing at this point...it would be a nice to have, but not necessary...perhaps even not preferred given the 3.8 motor and the mountains out here.

Plugs were done ~105k...I look into the coil however.

Intake manifold...I have Maxcare, so I'd get a dealer to do it. I don't think it is leaking...was yours a oil or vacuum issue?

Alum skids are quite interesting...I wonder if Qtech would be worth it or just get a full MC underarmor package....

What made your PCV so hard? I did mine around 30-40k with a later version (AD, I think) and my oil consumption dropped to nearly zero with PP 5w-30. M1 5w-20, it was still too high for my taste....it has been so long, I forget how much it was...

Rear shafts - original bearings and original shafts. I am pretty sure I have a bent flange. Always seem to have a vibration in the left rear regardless of which tire is there...and there has been a squeak outta that side for a long long time when turning.
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Old 10-14-2018, 03:40 AM   #4
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As far as gears go 4.88 for 35's if you are even thinking about 37's in the future. Ideally you want to be in the first blue after the green for best performance. 5.13 is a little much for 35's if you see any highway miles but something to consider if going 37's.

I am running the full set of Rockhard skids, been perfect. For the lift you can't go wrong with MC in my opinion.
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Old 10-19-2018, 07:13 PM
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As far as gears go 4.88 for 35's if you are even thinking about 37's in the future. Ideally you want to be in the first blue after the green for best performance. 5.13 is a little much for 35's if you see any highway miles but something to consider if going 37's.

I am running the full set of Rockhard skids, been perfect. For the lift you can't go wrong with MC in my opinion.
Yeah, I think the 4.56 was a typo. I have the 3.8 and a 6sp ... If I recall al the chatter back in the day, the guys with the autos were rolling 5.13s and 4.88s were great for the 3.8/manual.

We do a lot of highway miles between destinations (gettting there) - so I would honestly rather sacrifice off-road performance for streetability. - and this is also why I am not going to 37s right off the bat.

RH & MC are at the top of my list...but a set of alum skid from QT is pretty nice (weight). I'm having a hard time making a decision.

I do need a new cross member...does it really who it comes from?
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