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Old 06-15-2018, 02:31 PM   #691
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Originally Posted by Crown Automotive View Post
It's still in the development phase at this time. My best guess is the beginning of 2019.
Still willing to be a beta tester.

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Old 06-15-2018, 10:28 PM   #692
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@rednroll brought up a good point on replacement. I wonder too.
I wanted to try out the EBC Extra Duty pads as replacements, but they're significantly more expensive then any other option out there.


In my quest to figure this out, I ended up creating a front pad part number cross reference. If there's other brands anyone is interested in, I could check into adding them to this list.

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Old 06-16-2018, 06:45 AM   #693
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I wanted to try out the EBC Extra Duty pads as replacements, but they're significantly more expensive then any other option out there.


In my quest to figure this out, I ended up creating a front pad part number cross reference. If there's other brands anyone is interested in, I could check into adding them to this list.
Thanks for the effort. Much appreciated.
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Old 06-16-2018, 09:09 AM   #694
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@Crown SummitRacing contacted you regarding my order and they haven’t received a call back. I received cross-drilled slotted rotors instead of plain. PO9271115618 Order 88656. Can you assist at getting this handled?
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Old 06-17-2018, 04:41 PM   #695
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With the help of a couple of friends, I was able to get the Crown Automotive BBK, Mopar MC, BB and the wilwood reservoir installed on my jeep. As others have said, removing the brake booster was a pain. We decided to remove the 4 mounting bolts for the BB from the engine bay as opposed to the inside of the cab. We found it more accessible that way. After the installation, my brake lights stayed on constantly so I had to adjust the part under the dash that the brake pedal arm touches (part name eludes me right now). That took about 10 seconds extend the small piece out and allow the brake arm to reset the depth again.

We ran into a couple of speed bumps during the installation and I wanted to pass it on for others. First problem was when we installed the new MC onto the BB we must not have had everything lined up. We started to bleed the brakes and the brake pedal would not move. It was hard as a rock. We bench bled the MC prior to instal so we knew it was functioning normal. We had to remove the MC again and reinstall it ensuring that it lined up with the rod located inside of the BB. Once we reinstalled it, everything worked normally.

The second problem we encountered was once all the brakes were bled and everything was installed, I went to start the jeep and nothing happened. Everything seemed normal when I tried to start it but when I turned the key, nothing. We thought maybe we got air into the slave cylinder so we bled it but that didn't fix the problem. We searched the internet and eventually realized that somehow during the installation the clutch interrupt switch had come disconnected. It is located in the area under the MC near the BB. We were banging our heads for a little while trying to figure out why the jeep wouldn't start.

I just had 37/12.5/17 BF Goodrich tires installed the day before the brake install. My initial impression is the stopping power with my setup is considerably better than before the install. The new brakes stop my 37's better now then the old brakes did with my 315/70/17 Duratracs. The old brakes (rotors & pads) were replaced about 2 years ago and they were still in good condition. I will probably leave the rear brakes the same for now and not do the rear BRK.
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:03 PM   #696
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With the help of a couple of friends, I was able to get the Crown Automotive BBK, Mopar MC, BB and the wilwood reservoir installed on my jeep. As others have said, removing the brake booster was a pain. We decided to remove the 4 mounting bolts for the BB from the engine bay as opposed to the inside of the cab. We found it more accessible that way. After the installation, my brake lights stayed on constantly so I had to adjust the part under the dash that the brake pedal arm touches (part name eludes me right now). That took about 10 seconds extend the small piece out and allow the brake arm to reset the depth again.

We ran into a couple of speed bumps during the installation and I wanted to pass it on for others. First problem was when we installed the new MC onto the BB we must not have had everything lined up. We started to bleed the brakes and the brake pedal would not move. It was hard as a rock. We bench bled the MC prior to instal so we knew it was functioning normal. We had to remove the MC again and reinstall it ensuring that it lined up with the rod located inside of the BB. Once we reinstalled it, everything worked normally.

The second problem we encountered was once all the brakes were bled and everything was installed, I went to start the jeep and nothing happened. Everything seemed normal when I tried to start it but when I turned the key, nothing. We thought maybe we got air into the slave cylinder so we bled it but that didn't fix the problem. We searched the internet and eventually realized that somehow during the installation the clutch interrupt switch had come disconnected. It is located in the area under the MC near the BB. We were banging our heads for a little while trying to figure out why the jeep wouldn't start.

I just had 37/12.5/17 BF Goodrich tires installed the day before the brake install. My initial impression is the stopping power with my setup is considerably better than before the install. The new brakes stop my 37's better now then the old brakes did with my 315/70/17 Duratracs. The old brakes (rotors & pads) were replaced about 2 years ago and they were still in good condition. I will probably leave the rear brakes the same for now and not do the rear BRK.
Jeff, glad it is working now that all the head scratching is done. LOL
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:18 PM   #697
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For anyone that has used the stock lines with this kit, did you use new copper washers at the caliper? When I took the lines off the stock calipers, there were what appeared to be permanent raised washers where the line connects to the caliper. Now I seem to have a leak as the pedal fades to the floor after bleeding the system. Any input would be appreciated.
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Old 06-17-2018, 07:32 PM   #698
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For anyone that has used the stock lines with this kit, did you use new copper washers at the caliper? When I took the lines off the stock calipers, there were what appeared to be permanent raised washers where the line connects to the caliper. Now I seem to have a leak as the pedal fades to the floor after bleeding the system. Any input would be appreciated.
You need to pry off the washers from the stock line and use the new ones. It is not a permanent washer, it just gets stuck on.

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Old 06-17-2018, 08:02 PM   #699
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You need to pry off the washers from the stock line and use the new ones. It is not a permanent washer, it just gets stuck on.

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Thank you. I tried several ways and could not get them to budge so figured they were permanent. Think I may just order new lines anyway.
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Old 06-18-2018, 06:42 AM   #700
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Thanks for the effort. Much appreciated.

And after all that effort, I've decided I'm going to go with the Power Stop Z36 pad replacements.
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Old 06-18-2018, 08:46 AM   #701
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@Crown Automotive I guess my confusion was that the install guide says Replaces PN#, not that it IS PN#.

I can then assume that the replacement rotor is PN# 68040177AA and the calipers are 68157611AA and 68157610AA?

Thanks for the clarification.
We say "replaces Part #" in stead of "part #" because of legal reasons.

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@Crown SummitRacing contacted you regarding my order and they haven’t received a call back. I received cross-drilled slotted rotors instead of plain. PO9271115618 Order 88656. Can you assist at getting this handled?
I haven't received a message from Summit Racing. There are two Adams that work at Crown though. Try giving Summit a call again to see if there's any updates on their end.
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Old 06-19-2018, 12:38 PM
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I consider myself a safe driver but there are many unsafe drivers out there. Without this upgrade on my current setup, i would've gone through 3 insurance claims since yesterday.
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Old 06-19-2018, 07:10 PM   #703
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@Crown SummitRacing contacted you regarding my order and they haven’t received a call back. I received cross-drilled slotted rotors instead of plain. PO9271115618 Order 88656. Can you assist at getting this handled?
I received my Crown kit yesterday, and to my surprise the rotors were cross-drilled and slotted (I hadn't finished reading this entire thread yet).

Just curious why you think that the plain will be better?

Thanks.
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Old 06-19-2018, 07:38 PM   #704
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Plain is better if you will be off-roading the Jeep and going through deep puddles and mud. It won't get stuck in the holes where it is cross drilled and in the slots.
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Old 06-19-2018, 08:03 PM
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Although I like the drilled/slotted look, I went with plain because I use my jeep Offroad.


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Old 06-19-2018, 08:32 PM   #706
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You guys seem to be suggesting that anyone who would consider using the drilled & slotted rotors must not be planning to drive "off-road".

I can assure you that is not the case for me, although rocks not mud. I am not particularly excited about the cross-drilling, but slotted might actually be beneficial.

I didn't select the cross-drilled & slotted, but I might just give them a try.
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Old 06-19-2018, 09:54 PM   #707
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I received my Crown kit yesterday, and to my surprise the rotors were cross-drilled and slotted (I hadn't finished reading this entire thread yet).

Just curious why you think that the plain will be better?

Thanks.
Never was a fan of their look and they have no benefit in everyday driving scenarios. If anything they’re more susceptible to debris being caught and dragged around by the pad.

Where did you get your order from? I cancelled my Summit order because they were taking their time at sending me the right rotors. Having it all shipped back on their dime.

I ended up ordering from Quadratec but if they ship me the wrong parts one more time I’m going to go with the Teraflex kit. It’s not worth anymore hassle.
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Old 06-20-2018, 07:48 AM   #708
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I don't really care for the looks either, although it isn't something that really bugs me. I also agree that the performance will likely be no different either way on this application.

What gets me is how everyone keeps talking about trapping/dragging crud. The purpose of slots in rotors is to keep the pads clean and "refreshed", not the other way around. Now for someone who spends a lot of time mudding (which I do not), who knows what the effect might be.

I am not advocating the drilled & slotted rotors by any means, just playing devil's advocate. To be perfectly candid, I don't think it really matters one way or the other, so I am going to give them a try since I already have them in hand and returning will probably be a PITA.
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Old 06-20-2018, 12:11 PM   #709
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Never was a fan of their look and they have no benefit in everyday driving scenarios. If anything they’re more susceptible to debris being caught and dragged around by the pad.

Where did you get your order from? I cancelled my Summit order because they were taking their time at sending me the right rotors. Having it all shipped back on their dime.

I ended up ordering from Quadratec but if they ship me the wrong parts one more time I’m going to go with the Teraflex kit. It’s not worth anymore hassle.
Well, the kit I just got from Quadratec did not have the drilled and slotted rotors, so I'm guessing you will be fine.
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Old 06-20-2018, 03:30 PM   #710
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My kit from quadratec arrived today. Sent me the drilled and slotted rotors not plain like ordered. 1 of the rotors ripped through packaging, looks like it may have a few nicks on the face. Didn't even have to open the box to see they were the wrong rotors. Hole was big enough to let me look
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Old 06-25-2018, 01:55 PM   #711
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WOuld like to start by getting the Crown BBK kit, on Amazon, it is available for $450....anyother place or way I can get for cheaper.....

I have already spent on a blown caliper replaced it by OEM reman unit ($$$ wasted) had I know about the crown kit.....Replaced the front rotors with the same OEM size(again $$$ wasted) had I know about the crown kit or this thread I would have definitely gone with the crown kit...

Now I need the Crown kit as my rig is heavy as shit and still have the shield left to install and am finding it very very difficult for the rig to stop and on new rotors I am hearing a screeching sound...am not happy at all...

So help me save some $$$ and tell me where you got it for how much...

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Old 06-25-2018, 05:19 PM   #712
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I got mine from Quadratec for $440. There are a couple on line places that have had it advertised as low as 4350 but they are not in stock. If you can find one that doesn't say out of stock when you look, Qtec will price match.
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Old 06-25-2018, 06:33 PM   #713
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I got mine from Quadratec for $440. There are a couple on line places that have had it advertised as low as 4350 but they are not in stock. If you can find one that doesn't say out of stock when you look, Qtec will price match.

I placed an order with Quadratec last week and they'll be here Wednesday.
Price match was 374? I believe. I hope they're the plain rotors this time.
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Old 06-27-2018, 09:29 PM   #714
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Had some major brake fade this past weekend with this kit. A little disappointed. Hopefully I just need a good brake bleed, although I had previously bled them on multiple occasions with multiple methods. Any suggestions? Could a master cylinder issue be partly to blame? Im running the stock booster and master cylinder.
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Old 06-27-2018, 10:00 PM   #715
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Had some major brake fade this past weekend with this kit. A little disappointed. Hopefully I just need a good brake bleed, although I had previously bled them on multiple occasions with multiple methods. Any suggestions? Could a master cylinder issue be partly to blame? Im running the stock booster and master cylinder.
Stock master cylinder and booster can certainly be an issue. You increased the system usage by 50% but kept the stock flow and capacity.

There is a reason (other than an increase in sales) that a larger bore master cylinder is recommended.

So far, I have had great braking on the highway and the trails but I did replace the master cylinder and booster. I also vacuum power bled the system. Pedal stayed firm and high. No indication of fade at all.



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Old 06-27-2018, 10:19 PM   #716
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Stock master cylinder and booster can certainly be an issue. You increased the system usage by 50% but kept the stock flow and capacity.

There is a reason (other than an increase in sales) that a larger bore master cylinder is recommended.

So far, I have had great braking on the highway and the trails but I did replace the master cylinder and booster. I also vacuum power bled the system. Pedal stayed firm and high. No indication of fade at all.



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I vacuum bled and also old school pump bled. I will bleed again this weekend, try and get a full flush and hope that helps. I haven't been super happy with the pedal feel after the brake upgrade with the stock booster and master cylinder. Looks like more money spent is in my future.
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Old 06-28-2018, 06:22 AM   #717
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I vacuum bled and also old school pump bled. I will bleed again this weekend, try and get a full flush and hope that helps. I haven't been super happy with the pedal feel after the brake upgrade with the stock booster and master cylinder. Looks like more money spent is in my future.
My impressions are the same as yours. Will be doing the master cylinder / booster upgrade next.
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Old 06-28-2018, 07:33 AM   #718
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I have several thousand miles on this kit now. '17 Recon. Just the brakes, no master cylinder. Don't see any need to change the master cylinder. This is what should come stock on a Jeep to start with.

Drilled and or Slotted rotors? I have quite a bit of experience with those. From some race cars to nice street cars where we wanted the look of drilled rotors. Drilled rotors can dissipate heat better in some cases. You will never see the need on the street. Ever. Slotted rotors also degas the pad under hard use, and some say they clean/clear a pad better. I don't know if they clean better or not. But I can tell you for sure that slotted rotors don't warp near as bad as drilled rotors! Every car/truck we have installed drilled rotors on has had to have them resurfaced at least once. Not that many miles either. I cannot stand vibration in the brakes. You can live with it a bit on the race cars, until the next race. I know there are some better treatments for rotors ( cryogenic for instance ) that can help set the metal so it won't warp as bad. OEM drilled rotors are much better than most aftermarket for instance. Unless you just have to have the look of drilled rotors, I don't recommend them. Slotted rotors seem to act just like normal rotors as far as wear and warping. My $.02 worth!
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:10 AM   #719
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I vacuum bled and also old school pump bled. I will bleed again this weekend, try and get a full flush and hope that helps. I haven't been super happy with the pedal feel after the brake upgrade with the stock booster and master cylinder. Looks like more money spent is in my future.
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My impressions are the same as yours. Will be doing the master cylinder / booster upgrade next.
I bought my master cylinder/brake booster from Amazon for $258, which I felt was a good price. Being in stock and 2 day delivery also helped. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:16 AM   #720
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I wanted to try out the EBC Extra Duty pads as replacements, but they're significantly more expensive then any other option out there.


In my quest to figure this out, I ended up creating a front pad part number cross reference. If there's other brands anyone is interested in, I could check into adding them to this list.

You could add the Black Magic pads as well. They are $125, which is on par with the EBCs, but they are the best pads I've used.

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