Dealer or a lube shop for differential fluid change ??
The dealer charges $ 300 for front and rear differential fluid change, a lube shop only $150 and out in 20 min, vs the dealer what takes an hour and a half. Is there any difference in the work quality between these two that any of you is aware of. This is the first service for the Jeep at 20 K miles ( apart for oil changes of course) The lube shop doesn't take the diff cover off and spray clean the gears inside, they just drain an refill ? Is the dealer any different ? Thanks ahead.
I just spent $280.00 do the front and rear in my Rubicon. But, that included 5 quarts of Lucas synthetic gear lube, 2 x Lubelocker gaskets, and 2 x SOLID nodular iron Dana 44 covers. Upgrade + maintenance = peace of mind!
Dealers overcharge. You run the risk with quick lube shops that inexperienced employees will screw something up. If you prefer not to do it, find a privately owned reputable shop and have them take care of it. I like to pull the covers and inspect the gears, but it's not required. I also use Lubelocker reusable gaskets.
The dealer charges $ 300 for front and rear differential fluid change, a generic lube shop only $150 and out in 20 min vs the dealer what takes an hour and a half. Is there any difference in the work quality between these two that any of you is aware of. This is the the first time the Jeep is being serviced at 20 K miles. The lube place doesn't take the diff cover off and spray clean the gears inside, they just drain an refill ? Is the dealer any different ? Thanks ahead.
Differential-Fluid-Change-Write-UpI replaced my rear dif cover with an AEV. I used the RVT and didn't torque to spec 23-30lbs. started leaking after 3 months. I got the lublocker gasket. much better too. torqued to spec
Back when I had a Ram truck, it was the same thing. In this case, Stealerships go by a chart published by the company to charge for hours.
Speaking of charts, in my owners manual (since you didn't mention year or have a signature) has this as the intervals. Since it would cost little compared to your quoted prices if you were doing the maintenance yourself, I would understand jumping the gun and doing the fluid changes early. But if paying that much, why? DO NOT FALL for the "we recommend" BS, you tell them that you will go by the the manufacturer. I had one dealer in Omaha try that shit. Their schedule was 1/2 of the factory timeline. It's like the great oil change debate, go by the light or 3000/6000/7500 intervals. (that is a whole new conversation)
front/rear axels
INSPECT fluids: 20/60/100/140,000 miles
CHANGE (extreme duty) 40/80/120,000 miles
nothing for "normal" duty
transfer case,
Inspect 30/90/150,000 miles
Change (extreme duty) 60/120
Back when I had a Ram truck, it was the same thing. In this case, Stealerships go by a chart published by the company to charge for hours.
Speaking of charts, in my owners manual (since you didn't mention year or have a signature) has this as the intervals. Since it would cost little compared to your quoted prices if you were doing the maintenance yourself, I would understand jumping the gun and doing the fluid changes early. But if paying that much, why? DO NOT FALL for the "we recommend" BS, you tell them that you will go by the the manufacturer. I had one dealer in Omaha try that shit. Their schedule was 1/2 of the factory timeline. It's like the great oil change debate, go by the light or 3000/6000/7500 intervals. (that is a whole new conversation)
Yeah, here is what my maintenance schedule says. Its the same basically, first fluid change at 40K. So what to do now, wait til I'll get to 40K ? Same thing this dealer told me the same thing as yours first change at 20 K. Unreal.
So follow the owners manual and change it at 40k ( the axle fluids) or go by what the dealer says and change it at 20 K ?
Forty thousand miles does seem long, and even longer is the 60K miles for the first transfer case fluid change.... That's unbelievable, unless the fluids have improved a lot, because it never used to be this long not even close. There's got to be a sure way of knowing it.
Do it yourself. On our Rubi there are drain plugs on the bottom of the diffs making it super easy to change out. Should take you no longer the 30 minutes to dump and refill both diffs, and thats with a beer break.
It depends on use. In order to maintain the warranty don't exceed the recommended interval in the owners manual. For more severe or mixed duty, change it earlier. I did my first dif. fluid change at 15K. It's up to the owner.
My Valvoline training includes removing old fluid w/out pulling the diff cover, pouring in the cleaner, driving for 3 miles, then completely draining the diff, and filling it. See if either shop does this procedure. Probably just drain and fill.
Do it yourself. It's easy. Use a gasket (not RTV silly-cone, that's junk), preferably Lubelocker. Something every Jeep owner should know how to do. Just use the cheap stuff, differentials are nothing fancy. If you have a limited slip, add the appropriate additive. Castrol or Valvoline are good and cheap oils. $6 a quart in my area. My diffs take a quart and a half or so.
I went to my dealer at 68k miles . Dealer quoted $700 to change front and rear diff. fluids;transfer case and manual trans.fluid on my 2010 JKU. Yes, $700... I am not a mechanic. I read up,changed all fluids,new gasket,cleaned differentials all for less than $90. Anybody can do this with absolutely no previous experience!!! You will know what dirty versus clean differential fluid is!
The dealer charges $ 300 for front and rear differential fluid change, a lube shop only $150 and out in 20 min, vs the dealer what takes an hour and a half. Is there any difference in the work quality between these two that any of you is aware of. This is the first service for the Jeep at 20 K miles ( apart for oil changes of course) The lube shop doesn't take the diff cover off and spray clean the gears inside, they just drain an refill ? Is the dealer any different ? Thanks ahead.
The dealer is always going to charge more for equivalent service. Their flat rate is higher. As far as,..."Is there any difference..." (listen carefully), the ONLY difference is up to the individual doing the work. The shop has little to do with it. You can get good work done at either a shop or a dealer as well as bad work at either. Fluid changes are not rocket science and most any reasonably competent vehicle owner can change fluids and do it much more cheaply, saving money and a lot of time. Plus you can do it on YOUR schedule, not theirs. It does require a bit of education and you may even have to buy a tool or two but it won't be a lot and the satisfaction of knowing how it was done is always preferable over just having to wonder..."Did they do it right?"
There's potentially also a few locals that might be willing to assist if you're physically unable to do so yourself. Never hurts to reach out. I tend to work for beer in those situations.
This is interesting to me because as of August 2017 I had the 2013's rear dif fixed. I was having a clunk in the ring and pinion, and the tech determined the best course was to replace the carrier and ring and pinion after finding some blister marks in the metal. I follow the schedule for heavy duty use and I've been having a new noise coming from what I think is the LSD now.
So I go into the dealer this week to start diagnosing it better, and first up is popping the cover for inspection. My tech, who I actually know quite well, mentions the fluid is pretty dirty already. I know I drive a lot of miles in general, but that still surprised me. He prefers doing fluid changes every 15k - way more than I'd consider doing it. This wasn't a 'sell' for more business, he knows I don't pay dealers for this, so..
Well, fluid change (additive added of course), and the noise has improved, but it's still there.
Considering my TJ only had fluid changes every 35-50k, never had issues and it was aftermarket synthetic, this one has also been Mopar fluids and is on its second issue, I wouldn't worry about what fluid brand is used beyond the limited slip additive - I'd still buy Mopar for the records.
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