Disconnecting Stock Sway Bar - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 06-05-2013, 03:29 AM
Thread Starter
  #1
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 17
Disconnecting Stock Sway Bar

I often disconnect my sway bar when wheeling and I've been told I should disconnect both sides but I don't know why.

It's quite a hassle to disconnect both sides because not only do you need to crawl under both sides of the car but you then need to find a way to secure the sway bar itself because when both links are disconnected the sway bar itself drops down and gets in the way. I was thinking if I were to only disconnect one side I should be able to zip-tie the link to the sway bar arm itself and the whole sway bar would just go up and down with the other wheel. Is there any reason people don't recommend this?

Slartibartfast is offline   Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 03:47 AM   #2
Moderator

WF Lifetime Member
WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
jadmt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: missoula
Posts: 21,918
I just put mine on the RTI ramp and a very experienced ex pro racer and 4 wheeler mag writer, willie worthie, told me you only need to disconnect one side. He said there is no reason to disconnect both sides.

jadmt is offline   Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 05:56 AM   #3
Jeeper
 
redbilly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 269
One side is connected, and that side will move up and down with the connected wheel. Meanwhile the other side is completely independent. If the connected side pushed upward in the stroke of the shock while the lower side does not, it is very possible that the unconnected side, with a small peg attached to it, can come into contact with the unconnected tire. Allowing these two to move independently of one another is a recipe to carve a chunk out of you sidewall! Keep the bar in a fixed position parallel to the ground, and disconnect both sides. If you have the disco's set up properly, this should not be a huge hassle.
redbilly is offline   Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-05-2013, 06:35 AM   #4
Jeeper
 
WatchThis!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: East Texas
Posts: 5,616
Quote:
Originally Posted by redbilly View Post
One side is connected, and that side will move up and down with the connected wheel. Meanwhile the other side is completely independent. If the connected side pushed upward in the stroke of the shock while the lower side does not, it is very possible that the unconnected side, with a small peg attached to it, can come into contact with the unconnected tire. Allowing these two to move independently of one another is a recipe to carve a chunk out of you sidewall! Keep the bar in a fixed position parallel to the ground, and disconnect both sides. If you have the disco's set up properly, this should not be a huge hassle.
Exactly.
__________________
I'm here to participate. I didnt come all this way just to watch.

My jeep's thread https://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/che...st-111461.html
WatchThis! is offline   Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 08:28 AM
Thread Starter
  #5
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by redbilly View Post
... Keep the bar in a fixed position parallel to the ground, and disconnect both sides. If you have the disco's set up properly, this should not be a huge hassle.
How does one keep the bar parallel? When I remove both links the bar becomes free to move and has a tendency to fall down so I have to secure it using zip-ties. Also, I don't actually have disco's, I just unbolt them manually. Do the proper disco's have a mechanism for keeping the sway bar level?
Slartibartfast is offline   Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 08:29 AM   #6
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
jkjeeper06's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,392
Does anyone know if the bottom bolt is welded on and just the nut comes off? Mine is either welded(doubt it) or corroded shut. I may take air tools to it, but I want to remove it and either replace it with Clevis pins for a quick disconnect or just put a new non rusted bolt in it.

If I can't get it off with air tools and PB blaster would it be bad to put a cutoff wheel in between the link and the axle and just cut the bolt of then pound it out of the hole?
__________________
"You didn't buy it to look at it"
2000 TJ Solar yellow, 3.73, 202k, limited slip D44
2012 GMC sierra crew cab--Daily Driver
2008 jk X 6spd Red Rock---Sold and missed
jkjeeper06 is offline   Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 08:31 AM   #7
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
jkjeeper06's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slartibartfast View Post

How does one keep the bar parallel? When I remove both links the bar becomes free to move and has a tendency to fall down so I have to secure it using zip-ties. Also, I don't actually have disco's, I just unbolt them manually. Do the proper disco's have a mechanism for keeping the sway bar level?
I've seen ppl use a sinch strap on one side to hold it up. Or they get long reuse able zip ties. You can also weld a pin to your frame to hook the sway bar link onto
__________________
"You didn't buy it to look at it"
2000 TJ Solar yellow, 3.73, 202k, limited slip D44
2012 GMC sierra crew cab--Daily Driver
2008 jk X 6spd Red Rock---Sold and missed
jkjeeper06 is offline   Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 08:38 AM   #8
Jeeper
 
enjerhoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Land of Beer, Wine & Bad Infrastructure
Posts: 992
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkjeeper06 View Post
Does anyone know if the bottom bolt is welded on and just the nut comes off? Mine is either welded(doubt it) or corroded shut. I may take air tools to it, but I want to remove it and either replace it with Clevis pins for a quick disconnect or just put a new non rusted bolt in it.

If I can't get it off with air tools and PB blaster would it be bad to put a cutoff wheel in between the link and the axle and just cut the bolt of then pound it out of the hole?
It is not, at least on my 12 the studs were integral to the sway bar link. I actually used the lower bolt for another mod. I had to install a stop for my tire carrier since if fully open, opening the tailgate would result in contact between the tire carrier and the plastic cover on the lower hinge.

An impact wrench should take it off.
__________________
2012 Black Forest Green JKU Sahara - Used to love her, had to trade her.
2016 JKU Rhino Rubicon Stick, 3.5" Metalcloak GC Lift, Flipped Aluminum RPMFAB Draglink & Tierod, Rancho SS & 9000XL shocks, Metalcloak Full Width Front Bumper, 12K Winch, Factor 55 Pro, Atlas Rear Bumper, 510 Watts of KC Lights, Drake Fuel Door, Poison Spyder Diff Covers, Rock Hard Oil pan skid, 315/70/17 Duratracs on 17x9 Warlords.
enjerhoo is offline   Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 08:40 AM   #9
Jeeper
 
enjerhoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Land of Beer, Wine & Bad Infrastructure
Posts: 992
Are you using an IR or CH/offbrand impact? An air ratchet likely won't do it.
If you are using an electric, make sure your extension cord is not too long or the battery is charged / not worn out.
__________________
2012 Black Forest Green JKU Sahara - Used to love her, had to trade her.
2016 JKU Rhino Rubicon Stick, 3.5" Metalcloak GC Lift, Flipped Aluminum RPMFAB Draglink & Tierod, Rancho SS & 9000XL shocks, Metalcloak Full Width Front Bumper, 12K Winch, Factor 55 Pro, Atlas Rear Bumper, 510 Watts of KC Lights, Drake Fuel Door, Poison Spyder Diff Covers, Rock Hard Oil pan skid, 315/70/17 Duratracs on 17x9 Warlords.
enjerhoo is offline   Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 08:43 AM   #10
Jeeper
 
enjerhoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Land of Beer, Wine & Bad Infrastructure
Posts: 992
If you can't get it off (lol) & want to use a cutoff wheel, split the nut instead of cutting through the stud & pop it off with a chisel. That way the link might be reusable.
__________________
2012 Black Forest Green JKU Sahara - Used to love her, had to trade her.
2016 JKU Rhino Rubicon Stick, 3.5" Metalcloak GC Lift, Flipped Aluminum RPMFAB Draglink & Tierod, Rancho SS & 9000XL shocks, Metalcloak Full Width Front Bumper, 12K Winch, Factor 55 Pro, Atlas Rear Bumper, 510 Watts of KC Lights, Drake Fuel Door, Poison Spyder Diff Covers, Rock Hard Oil pan skid, 315/70/17 Duratracs on 17x9 Warlords.
enjerhoo is offline   Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 08:59 AM   #11
kgg
Jeeper
 
kgg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Salt Lake city
Posts: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slartibartfast View Post
Do the proper disco's have a mechanism for keeping the sway bar level?
Yes - you install a hanger pin and place the links on those - keeps the sway bar up and out of the way.
kgg is offline   Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 09:15 AM   #12
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
Barmanvarn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sherwood, AR
Posts: 5,474
I use teraflex quick disconnects.

Pull the cotter pin, move the lower mount to the supplied new mount (seen on top left) and secure with cotter pin.



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-674366181.jpg
Views:	205
Size:	132.5 KB
ID:	257936
__________________
-Brian
2012 Cherry Red JK
TF 2.5 Coils w/ Billstein 5100 Shocks
17x8 Black Rock D-Window Alloys
315/70/17 GY Duratracs
4:56 Gears - LSD in Rear w/ Ten Factory Chromoly Shafts
TF HD Diff Covers
Barmanvarn is offline   Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 09:16 AM   #13
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
jkjeeper06's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,392
Quote:
Originally Posted by enjerhoo View Post
Are you using an IR or CH/offbrand impact? An air ratchet likely won't do it.
If you are using an electric, make sure your extension cord is not too long or the battery is charged / not worn out.
Yeah I'd be using a neumatic impact wrench to do it so hopefully I could get it of with that

__________________
"You didn't buy it to look at it"
2000 TJ Solar yellow, 3.73, 202k, limited slip D44
2012 GMC sierra crew cab--Daily Driver
2008 jk X 6spd Red Rock---Sold and missed
jkjeeper06 is offline   Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off






All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:46 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, Gladiator, Mopar and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to FCA US LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with FCA US LLC.