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Old 08-19-2019, 08:58 AM
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Doetsch Off-Road 1-Ton Aluminum TR & DL

Anyone have experience with Doetsh Off-Road? This 1-ton aluminum tie rod and drag link seem hard to beat.

https://doetschoffroad.com/products/...on-offset-ends

Any opinions/experience? Thank you!

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Old 08-19-2019, 02:47 PM   #2
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I went with this at the end of May. The overall cost, getting serviceable 1-ton TRE's and free shipping were the biggest selling points. Their video showing the tie rod bending over a rock and then springing back was pretty good advertising too but I haven't tested that.

Things I'd share:
You definitely need 17" rims with proper backspacing to clear the TRE's. I have the AEV Borah's and they just clear.

The TRE's on the tie rod go right into the stock knuckle holes. No drilling/reaming required and it mounts under the knuckle arm just as stock.

The TRE for the draglink at the steering knuckle arm is the one that will require drilling/reaming in order for it to go to "top mount" or "high steer" set up. They provide you with an insert so you just need to drill a standard hole. This is the same size as the stock OEM TRE's. I had already drilled mine out and gone with an OEM RHD draglink so didn't need to do anything. The pitman arm TRE is stock OEM size as well so no issue there.

The steering stabilizer mount may be an issue based on what brand you run, I know they told me ARB does not fit. It may also be different if you are running a stock housing or aftermarket. My front is a Teraflex and used their mount for the stabilizer and is much more level and easier to mount than what I've seen in the stock housing.

Alignment is not necessarily as easy as the stock OEM set up. I did a lot of measuring with the stock stuff and with my wheels and steering wheel and got very very close. I took it into a friend's shop with a full alignment rack and to get it really dialed in did require messing with the overall length of the tie rod relative to where it was centered on steering wheel.

Aside from that, no drama. I've driven out to CO and down to DE from upstate NY since then and no issues at all. I really just wanted easily serviceable TRE's with obvious grease ports. The heavy duty rods are nice too. I'm curious how the aluminum will weather, I've left mine unpainted.

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Old 08-19-2019, 02:57 PM   #3
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They are local to me and a great shop. They use quality materials, so it will be like any other on the market. I am actually currently using their drag link on my setup
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Old 08-19-2019, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by clownmidget View Post
I went with this at the end of May. The overall cost, getting serviceable 1-ton TRE's and free shipping were the biggest selling points. Their video showing the tie rod bending over a rock and then springing back was pretty good advertising too but I haven't tested that.

Things I'd share:
You definitely need 17" rims with proper backspacing to clear the TRE's. I have the AEV Borah's and they just clear.

The TRE's on the tie rod go right into the stock knuckle holes. No drilling/reaming required and it mounts under the knuckle arm just as stock.

The TRE for the draglink at the steering knuckle arm is the one that will require drilling/reaming in order for it to go to "top mount" or "high steer" set up. They provide you with an insert so you just need to drill a standard hole. This is the same size as the stock OEM TRE's. I had already drilled mine out and gone with an OEM RHD draglink so didn't need to do anything. The pitman arm TRE is stock OEM size as well so no issue there.

The steering stabilizer mount may be an issue based on what brand you run, I know they told me ARB does not fit. It may also be different if you are running a stock housing or aftermarket. My front is a Teraflex and used their mount for the stabilizer and is much more level and easier to mount than what I've seen in the stock housing.

Alignment is not necessarily as easy as the stock OEM set up. I did a lot of measuring with the stock stuff and with my wheels and steering wheel and got very very close. I took it into a friend's shop with a full alignment rack and to get it really dialed in did require messing with the overall length of the tie rod relative to where it was centered on steering wheel.

Aside from that, no drama. I've driven out to CO and down to DE from upstate NY since then and no issues at all. I really just wanted easily serviceable TRE's with obvious grease ports. The heavy duty rods are nice too. I'm curious how the aluminum will weather, I've left mine unpainted.

Thank you very much for your input! I think I'll pull the trigger this week on this and give it a go. I'll get some 1.5" or 2.0" spacers as I have my blacked out factory sport 17's on the Sahara atm....

The aluminum will dull over the winter, but nothing a yearly/semi-yearly rub-down can't cure!
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Old 08-19-2019, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by phxchargerfan View Post
They are local to me and a great shop. They use quality materials, so it will be like any other on the market. I am actually currently using their drag link on my setup
I am envous of the AZ support you guys have over there... and the places to go wheelin!

Their shop looks really nice, and they seem to know what they are doing... I'll give it a shot, thanks!
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Old 08-23-2019, 03:57 PM
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I notice the TR and DL are straight, with a slight off-set on the TRE's. No bend or arc like the factory draglink and tierods. Alot of aftermarket also have this curvature, and some are straight stock like this one. What's the disadvantage to a straight bar?
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Old 08-27-2019, 12:39 AM   #7
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Cant speak of the part but the shop is great. I got my fastback Dv8 top and teraflex lift there and they are very professional and have grwat prices


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Old 08-27-2019, 06:34 PM   #8
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I just installed the tie rod and drag link on my buddies JKUR and they are pure beef. I have the steer smarts components and I am jealous. The guys in the shop are knowledgeable and great to work with. They do offer a non-flipped draglink that does not require any of the drilling,etc. (that’s what I installed on my buddy’s Jeep).
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Old 08-27-2019, 09:00 PM   #9
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You definitely need 17" rims with proper backspacing to clear the TRE's. I have the AEV Borah's and they just clear.

Any bumpstop extension needed ?
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Old 08-27-2019, 09:14 PM   #10
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I did not change anything with regard to bumpstops but I'm running ~4" lift with extended bumpstops already. I flexed it out to get both sides of the front sitting on the bumbstops and everything just clears. Very tight but it clears.
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Old 08-27-2019, 09:16 PM   #11
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Thanks, since it just clears, is that 2" or 3" of bumpstop extension ?
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Old 08-30-2019, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by HooliganActual View Post
I just installed the tie rod and drag link on my buddies JKUR and they are pure beef. I have the steer smarts components and I am jealous. The guys in the shop are knowledgeable and great to work with. They do offer a non-flipped draglink that does not require any of the drilling,etc. (thatís what I installed on my buddyís Jeep).
What did you guys use for steering stabilizer? Did you buy the optional bracket? Which stabilizer you using?
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Old 08-30-2019, 02:53 PM   #13
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What did you guys use for steering stabilizer? Did you buy the optional bracket? Which stabilizer you using?
He bought the optional setup that Doetsch sells which I believe was a Teraflex bracket and stabilizer. It is certainly functional but there is one aspect of it that neither of us liked: the tie rod bracket halves are held together by 6 Allen screws that are inserted from above which makes it a PITA to get wrenches on.

By contrast, I run an Old Man Emu setup on my rig and the Allen screws are inserted from the bottom allowing me to use a ratchet and Allen head socket to tighten and loosen. Itís a nitpicking thing but when you have to run those fine thread screws all the way in or out at one quarter of a turn at a time, youíll wish you had the OME setup. Either way you go, itíll be a good setup.
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Old 09-08-2019, 01:54 AM   #14
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I too am about to pull the trigger on this. Baddest TR and DL in this price range. Not sure if they offer a beefier TRE option?
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Old 09-08-2019, 02:56 AM   #15
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Check out StinkyFab racing, virtually identical tie rod, much cheaper. Love mine.
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Old 09-16-2019, 12:00 PM   #16
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Check out StinkyFab racing, virtually identical tie rod, much cheaper. Love mine.
Bent the bajeesus out of my stock draglink this weekend, went with the Stinky Fab Aluminum as the replacement
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Old 09-16-2019, 08:28 PM
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Bent the bajeesus out of my stock draglink this weekend, went with the Stinky Fab Aluminum as the replacement
Did you have to ream your pitman arm? How involved is that? These StinkyFab's look nice!
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Old 09-16-2019, 09:13 PM   #18
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Did you have to ream your pitman arm? How involved is that? These StinkyFab's look nice!


I opted to just buy the forged pitman arm from stinky fab that is already reamed. Still waiting on the parts, Iím hoping getting the old pitman arm off isnít harder than the reaming would have been!


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Old 09-17-2019, 10:01 AM
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I opted to just buy the forged pitman arm from stinky fab that is already reamed. Still waiting on the parts, Iím hoping getting the old pitman arm off isnít harder than the reaming would have been!


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I know a puller is needed, and that thing is torqued to like 250ft/lbs or something stupid.... The reamer tool was 85 so it may be a wash to ream vs replace, however I'd rather a new part than an old part which has been reamed.

Funny thing, I don't remember reading anything about reaming needed for the Deotsch, so maybe it uses a smaller pitman-endlink?
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Old 09-17-2019, 10:11 AM   #20
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I know a puller is needed, and that thing is torqued to like 250ft/lbs or something stupid.... The reamer tool was 85 so it may be a wash to ream vs replace, however I'd rather a new part than an old part which has been reamed.

Funny thing, I don't remember reading anything about reaming needed for the Deotsch, so maybe it uses a smaller pitman-endlink?

I didn't need to ream my pitman arm. It is just a standard TRE link. It will just bolt right up
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Old 09-17-2019, 10:28 AM   #21
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I know a puller is needed, and that thing is torqued to like 250ft/lbs or something stupid.... The reamer tool was 85 so it may be a wash to ream vs replace, however I'd rather a new part than an old part which has been reamed.

Funny thing, I don't remember reading anything about reaming needed for the Deotsch, so maybe it uses a smaller pitman-endlink?
I believe i paid about the same for the new pitman arm and had similar thoughts, might as well go with a new part. Seems a lot more likely that i would screw up reaming the old one vs getting a new one on there.


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I didn't need to ream my pitman arm. It is just a standard TRE link. It will just bolt right up
Interesting, wish i would have realized that. Although i did not see on their website that they sell the drag link by itself.
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Old 09-17-2019, 05:59 PM   #22
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Check out StinkyFab racing, virtually identical tie rod, much cheaper. Love mine.

$250 vs $240? I'm not seeing much of a difference. Stinky include a clamp? Is it shipping costs? I didn't enter shipping info so i can't tell without doing all that.
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Old 09-17-2019, 08:14 PM   #23
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$250 vs $240? I'm not seeing much of a difference. Stinky include a clamp? Is it shipping costs? I didn't enter shipping info so i can't tell without doing all that.
$400?


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Old 09-18-2019, 01:56 AM   #24
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$250 vs $240? I'm not seeing much of a difference. Stinky include a clamp? Is it shipping costs? I didn't enter shipping info so i can't tell without doing all that.
$400?


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That one is a set. It includes the drag link.
The tie rod by itself is $240.
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Old 09-19-2019, 11:13 AM   #25
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I went with the set, clamp and shipping bumped it up to $500 all in. Scheduled to arrive today. Opted out on the $350 Falcon Nexus SS, went with a Fox 2.0 for $250 cheaper, after all its just a friggin stabilizer. Should have it all installed by weekend. Will follow up with a post.
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Old 11-11-2019, 05:18 PM   #26
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So heres my Doetsch TR DL set. Really loving the set up, ran 3 very hard trails and no problems, super easy install. Wish I would have painted before install because this was a PITA to spray after install, dont even know if I'll be able to spray the DL in place may attempt it at a later date. For those doing high steer please save yourself the headache and purchase a SS flip bracket along with a TB raised reloc bracket and have it welded on before installing the kit. I have yet to do this and I have lost all caster and have bump steer. Should resolve this week. Will report back once I finish dialing it in.

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Old 11-12-2019, 04:33 AM   #27
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https://www.fusion4x4.com/online-sto...ombo-p87196131


2.5 ton setup is what i run. actually saw someone pull the ball joint out of a one ton aluminum tie rod before and it cracked the tie rod down the middle in the process! he had hydro and was wedged against a rock, the rock won.
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Old 11-12-2019, 10:43 AM   #28
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Unfortunately, the weakness of a 1 ton setup is the TRE's.

The tie rod bars are certainly beefy enough (in an aluminum bar) but the 7/8" shank of the TRE is what I would worry about if you do serious wheeling.

I also went with a 2.5 ton setup and my TRE's are 1.25" shanks.
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Old 11-13-2019, 07:56 AM   #29
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That one is a set. It includes the drag link.
The tie rod by itself is $240.
Bummer I missed this sale....
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Old 11-13-2019, 09:52 AM   #30
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Bummer I missed this sale....
It's still $499. I never saw the above guys $400 price.

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