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Old 05-17-2017, 09:26 PM
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Question First oil change due - any advice for the DIY'er?

I've watched a few YouTube videos and it looks straight forward and simple. I'm jut curious if there is anything I should be aware of for the very first oil change, such as the drain plug being on way too tight from the factory.

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Old 05-17-2017, 09:52 PM   #2
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When you remove the drain plug that oil shoots out farther than you think it will


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Old 05-17-2017, 09:57 PM   #3
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It's pretty simple. Have a pan at the right angle when you remove that plug and not right below the hole. The arc the oil comes out is pretty good. Then let it drain, move the pan under the oil filter, remove it. Rub some oil on the seal of the new filter, put on. Put drain plug back in. Put oil in.

Very simple, as you said.
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Old 05-17-2017, 10:18 PM   #4
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Yep, pretty much the same as changing oil on any other vehicle. Just be careful with that darn filter cap/cover and don't over tighten when you put it back on. It's made of plastic and feels somewhat fragile. I think there's a suggested torque setting on the cap if you are unsure.
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Old 05-17-2017, 11:06 PM   #5
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Handy tip...I have heard that if you get oil in your hair gojo will take it out...not sure where I heard it, but it was a reliable source...as I recall.
Otherwise, yes it should be the same as any other vehicle.


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Old 05-18-2017, 12:14 AM   #6
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Just about the easiest vehicle to do oil changes in. Especially if you're lifted, you can sit under the jeep and use a bucket to catch the oil.

Biggest issues is to be sure you don't over tighten the oil filter cap. The housings are known to crack. I lube the oil ring and stop right when the cap seats on the housing.

Make sure you have the right oil filters. I think they changed with 2014 model year.

Drain the oil first and the filter housing will drain down making it less messy up top. Make sure you don't leave the small o-ring or spring behind in the filter housing (depending on your model year). Once drained, I lay a towel over the engine, can get the filter out and in the trash without a single drip.

I buy my filters on Amazon several at a time and stock them on the work bench. When my 2014 was new, the new filters had to be ordered or purchased at the dealer.
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Old 05-18-2017, 12:59 AM   #7
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Dead simple to do oil changes on. No need to jack it up - just slide underneath with the drain pan and pull the plug. Give it some time to drain, then open the filter housing up top - I typically unscrew the cover until the o-ring has cleared the housing and give it a bit more time to help ensure the filter has mostly drip-dried before removing it completely.

The filter then pulls out of the housing. The new filter should include a replacement o-ring; remove the old one and install the new after lightly coating it with oil. Seat the new filter where the old one was, then reassemble the housing. Do the initial tightening by hand; it should screw in fairly easily. I then tighten it with a ratchet until it just snugs up and the faces of the housing halves meet. There is no need to crank it down - the o-ring does the sealing. (As an aside, I find it funny that waaaaaay back in the day cars had oil filters with replaceable elements, then we went to spin ons for many years, and now we're back to cartridges. I must say I like this arrangement better than the spin ons that were almost always in an inconvenient spot and mounted so as to stay full until you attempted to get them out, at which point they'd spill dirty oil all over you. The new Jeep filter lets you stay nice and clean.)

Remember to put the drain plug back in before trying to refill the engine with fresh oil (my uncle did that years ago on his old Pontiac - realized as the sixth and final quart made the drain pan begin to overflow and oil began to seep out on the floor).

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Old 05-18-2017, 03:12 AM   #8
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Remember to put the drain plug back in before trying to refill the engine with fresh oil (my uncle did that years ago on his old Pontiac - realized as the sixth and final quart made the drain pan begin to overflow and oil began to seep out on the floor).
Lol, I did that once myself, years ago. Was chatting with a friend while changing the oil in an old Chevy pickup, got a little distracted and forgot to put the plug back in. I was almost through pouring in my last quart when my buddy goes, "Uh oh" and pointed down at the oil running out from under the truck.

What a mess. And expensive. And a bit embarrassing.

Nothing says "dumbass" like forgetting to put the plug back in, but chances are you'll only do it once.

Btw, there are a couple of very good videos on YouTube showing how to change the oil in a Wrangler. I really admire the guy in Buffalo who did it in his driveway in the snow.
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Old 05-18-2017, 04:58 AM   #9
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The JK is the easiest vehicle in the world to change the oil on. My only recommendation would be to add the Fumoto oil valve, then your next one will be even easier.

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/F106SX.html

Then get a small hose and you can put the hose into your container and have a no mess oil change.
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Old 05-18-2017, 07:33 AM   #10
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First oil change due - any advice for the DIY'er?

As others have said, biggest things are draining oil first, then doing the filter, and biggest of all is not to overtighten the filter cap. Good advice above - finger tight, then snug it up.

I also pack paper towels around the filter housing, and lay a bit on top of the alternator. The filter housing is behind it, and even being careful, I always get a drip or two, and I'd rather not get them in the alternator or on the belt. Just need to be careful not to pinch them in the housing during reassembly. On my '15, the filter snaps into the cap, so it comes out easily, but can make a bit of a mess.

And don't forget to swap/lube that O ring.
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Old 05-18-2017, 07:39 AM   #11
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The JK is the easiest vehicle in the world to change the oil on. My only recommendation would be to add the Fumoto oil valve, then your next one will be even easier.

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/F106SX.html

Then get a small hose and you can put the hose into your container and have a no mess oil change.
The valve made is stupid easy. Works good for when you have an engine skid.
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Old 05-18-2017, 08:25 AM   #12
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Every fastener on your vehicle has a torque value ...
The oil pan plug should be torqued to spec ....
You should own a good quality torque wrench.
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Old 05-18-2017, 08:41 AM   #13
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Kind of a general tip on all vehicles.... I had the occasion to have this happen to me, and will try to make sure no one else will have it happen to them.

When taking off the old filter, make sure the o-ring/gasket is still on the old filter. I replaced the filter on my WK2 and the rubber stuck to the Jeep which resulted in me placing rubber on rubber with the new filter. This ultimately resulted in 7+ quarts of fully synthetic on the ground. FML

Always check that the old filter has the rubber attached to it.
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Old 05-18-2017, 08:42 AM   #14
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Every fastener on your vehicle has a torque value ...
The oil pan plug should be torqued to spec ....
You should own a good quality torque wrench.
I don't have a torque wrench but I need to get one. Does it really matter if it's "good quality" or is good quality just expensive?
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Old 05-18-2017, 08:47 AM   #15
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Every fastener on your vehicle has a torque value ...
The oil pan plug should be torqued to spec ....
You should own a good quality torque wrench.
While I agree with the statement that you should own a good quality torque wrench, I over 40 years of changing my own oil, I've never broken out the torque wrench for an oil change.
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Old 05-18-2017, 08:53 AM   #16
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My method for changing oil (I also rotate tires at this time, roughly every 3-4k miles):

- Put JK on some ramps (as if it needs it...hahaha).
- Get an empty large laundry detergent container (2 gallon?)
- Get a decent sized funnel
- put funnel in detergent container
- place funnel/container under JK (prepare to temporarily hold/move to ensure most/all oil goes into container). Once it becomes more consistent, place container on ground and let it continue to drain
- Proceed to change oil filter
- restore oil plug once finished
- fill up with fresh oil

Then, usually, I will go straight from the ramps to jacking up the axles and rotating the tires (including the spare into rotation for maximum mileage use on treads).

The ramps/funnel/detergent container all more or less match height just enough where I can usually leave it draining alone.
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:08 AM   #17
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I don't use a torque wrench for oil changes either. Never had a problem.

Lots of good advice above, but I'll add a few things that have made the process easier:

For the filter cap, it helps if you have a deep socket (the longer one). That way your wrench will clear the surrounding engine parts.

Since I change the oil in my garage, I place a broken down cardboard box under the catch pan. Because I'm messy, and always drip oil somewhere.

When removing the oil pan bolt, I press in lightly while unscrewing the bolt. Once I'm sure it's cleared the threads I pull it straight back. This keeps the oil from pouring out over my hands, and keeps me from dropping the bolt in the oil pan.

An open pan is easier. Because I'm an idiot. I've forgotten to open that air release cap and had to clean up a hell of a mess.

Don't forget to reset your oil life indicator after the change. Keep shop towels handy.
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:14 AM   #18
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The only weird thing I do is keep a plastic oil filter cap on hand as a spare. Probably overkill since I have 2 cars, but anything with plastic threads terrifies me.
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:33 AM   #19
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Also wear thick gloves if you're not going to let that oil cool for at least 15-20 minutes before doing the change. Might want to wear some anyway, easier cleanup (yourself)
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:50 AM   #20
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The only thing I would add is to use a six-sided socket to remove the oil cap. If you don't have one, they are available at any auto parts store, usually in the oil section. It's a 24 mm socket made just for oil filter caps. You don't need a deep socket. A short extension will work just fine. With a Fumoto oil drain valve it will be one of the easiest oil changes there is. Go with the F106N and just leave the drain hose attached, with an old bolt plugging the end up. Just make sure you have a good skid plate covering the Fumoto, if you actually go off road.
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Old 05-18-2017, 11:11 AM   #21
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Any reason why you don't want to use your free oil changes from Jeep Wave and have the dealer do it?
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Old 05-18-2017, 06:23 PM   #22
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Any reason why you don't want to use your free oil changes from Jeep Wave and have the dealer do it?
Personally, I don't let the dealer touch any of my vehicles unless I absolutely have to. I have two free oil changes for my truck and free lifetime oil changes for my car. The dealer doesn't touch those either. When I change the oil, I know it's done right and I know I'm getting the synthetic oil I paid for. Go to any Jeep, car or truck forum and you can find plenty of oil change horror stories involving dealers, jiffy lube and independent shops.
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Old 05-18-2017, 06:42 PM   #23
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It IS as easy as the YouTube videos make it look. And, as long as you're not forgetting things (drain plug), don't forget to put the oil filler cap back, either. Not *nearly* as bad as the drain plug, but it can still allow junk into the engine.

I've been changing my own oil for a LONG time. I don't use a toque wrench. Gotta be super careful not to OVER tighten, though.

As a tip, if you change the oil while it's hot, you'll get more gunk out.
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Old 05-18-2017, 07:11 PM   #24
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Use a telescoping magnet pick up tool to loosen the drain plug the last few turns. Done right, it will keep the plug from dropping in the drain pan and keep your hand/wrench from getting covered in hot oil. Or, just install the Fumoto valve and use tubing to drain into a suitable container.
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Old 05-18-2017, 07:39 PM   #25
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It is a very easy job. My advise would be do not over tighten the oil filter cap, or the drain plug. I also like to let the oil drain for 30 minutes or longer. No point in rushing like a quick lube place, I like to get as much as possible out, within reason. Does it matter? To me it does, and that's all that matters. LOL So I set aside time, check the vehicle, and do other things while the oil is draining.
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Old 05-18-2017, 07:51 PM   #26
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Personally, I don't let the dealer touch any of my vehicles unless I absolutely have to. I have two free oil changes for my truck and free lifetime oil changes for my car. The dealer doesn't touch those either. When I change the oil, I know it's done right and I know I'm getting the synthetic oil I paid for. Go to any Jeep, car or truck forum and you can find plenty of oil change horror stories involving dealers, jiffy lube and independent shops.
I hear a lot of people say that. That's why I asked the OP if there is a reason he didn't want to use the free oil changes. I can appreciate the fact that some like to do their owne but I have never had a bad oil change experience, so I will use the free ones.
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Old 05-18-2017, 07:58 PM   #27
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Here's how I do it. Change it while still pretty hot. Not burn you hot, but definitely warm. I use a torque wrench to tighten everything, so I put it next to the drain pan now. Put the drain pan under the plug, biased in the direction it will flow out, just enough to catch the drips directly under it. Break loose the plug, but unscrew it by hand, applying inward pressure, it will keep the oil from leaking out. When you feel the last thread start click since it is fully backed out, have your hand above the plug, and quickly pull it up and away. You may get a drop of oil on your fingers. put the plug in a safe spot and head up top.

Pop the hood, remove the "3.6" cover (put it of to the side in the engine bay by the battery so you don;t forget it) and loosen the oil filter cap completely. I then like to get my funnel out, clean it, and put it next to the oil fill cap. Next, I grab the new filter, tear off the top, write down the mileage and date and throw it in the owner's manual as I grab the locking lug nut key to do the tire rotation. I then take out the new filter, pull the oil filter cap out, stick the old filter in the new box, pop it off, replace the filter and gasket, use some oil from the old filter to lube the gasket, and put it back finger tight.

Next I go back under, replace the drain plug, and torque it. Now I go back up top and torque down the oil filter cap. Note that because the torque wrench was down with the drain pan, you can't torque the filter until you do the drain plug. Error/mistake proofing. Now I remove the filler cap and stick in the funnel (clean funnel under the hod indicates no oil in the engine, and you have to remove it to replace the cover/close the hood) and pour in one 5 qt jug and one single quart bottle. Check the level and button it up.

I fill the 5qt jug with the used oil, and leave the rest in the pan (it's the kind that stores the oil inside) until it has a few quarts remaining. Much easier recycling the oil in 5qt jugs than the bottles.
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:55 PM   #28
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The JK is the easiest vehicle in the world to change the oil on. My only recommendation would be to add the Fumoto oil valve, then your next one will be even easier.

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/F106SX.html

Then get a small hose and you can put the hose into your container and have a no mess oil change.
This is excellent advice. I love my fumoto valve, it makes oil changes quick, clean and easy.
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Old 05-19-2017, 07:38 AM   #29
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I hear a lot of people say that. That's why I asked the OP if there is a reason he didn't want to use the free oil changes. I can appreciate the fact that some like to do their owne but I have never had a bad oil change experience, so I will use the free ones.
Exactly. Our Jeep came with free lifetime oil changes (around every 2,000 miles) and thus the dealer is the only one that ever does it. If they happen to screw something up in the process they will be fixing it for free, too.
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Old 05-19-2017, 07:51 AM   #30
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I didn't see reference to the model year in the thread (sorry if I missed it somewhere). If this is on a 2011-13 then beware of the possibility of the oil bypass valve launching out of the oil filter assembly after removing the filter. If it pops out that means it's broken and will need to be replaced. Dorman part #917-992 ($20-40).

More info here if needed:
https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/he...d-1458570.html


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