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Old 10-15-2015, 12:26 PM   #31
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Remove the positive battery and touch it to the negative for 30 sec leave it disconnected for 30 min than reconnect it.
really ???

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Old 10-15-2015, 12:29 PM   #32
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Whenever my check engine light comes on I open the hood and it is still there

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Old 10-16-2015, 10:40 AM   #33
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Don't celebrate too much just yet. When I was dealing with the GASCAP fault on my DD Chrysler vehicle I disconnected the battery to clear the fault after I installed a new OEM gas cap. Although it initially went away it reappeared about a week later.
We'll have to wait and see. So far it's been 2 days and the GASCAP indicator hasn't shown its ugly face.
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Old 09-07-2019, 11:28 AM   #34
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My 2010 had the same issue, replaced the cap and the light still came on. I have a battery disconnect for towing and Thought that might reset the light, but no go. One I installed the Superchip, it reset the codes and no more light.
Any news on this since you did that.

When you say super chip, would flashcal work the same like that. Just plugging in flashcal and going through a few menus and items and maybe make a change then change back, to reset the codes. Would that work
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Old 09-07-2019, 11:31 AM   #35
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Mine has been on for about a year now. I've replaced the gascap twice and checked all my evap connections. Had it in for an inspection 2 months ago and asked them to smoke test the system. They did and said they couldn't see any leaks, they reset the code and sent my on my way. 2-3 days later it came back on. I"ve just been living with it. No change in MPG or performance so I don't worry about it.
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I have a 2007, Sahara 4 door automatic. I bought her used in 2011, noted that the gas cap light was on and asked about it.

The reply was that the indicator had been on since day 1, it was thoroughly investigated but nothing the company did helped at all. I was assured that the jeep was operating fine except for this one indicator.

I took it to the Jeep/Dodge dealership in Winnipeg and, $700 later, got the same news, I was not happy with that group of people. They didn't even have an indication whether it was a sensor, the onboard computer or a physical defect that should be replaced....... I don't go there anymore.

I have tried several brand new gas caps, worked for 7 seconds and then threw the fault code again. I will be checking the gas hose between the cap and the tank as well as all related venting and the sensor too......next!

The jeep runs good, I have had the fuel consumption down as low as 10.6 litres per 100km's which is pretty good for an auto, just hate the light!
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You know if I can't get a solution for this problem and nothing can be done, I'm going to pull the instrument panel and get rid of the light that is so annoying.

After all, it is doing absolutely nothing except eliminating the operational use of the light itself. "the bulb that cried wolf"! might as well get rid of it.
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Originally Posted by Seabass926 View Post
Had this problem on my RAM before I bought my JKU this year. I took the cap off and then put it back on then I tightened it to like 6 clicks and that did the trick. I didn't have to tighten it that much every time but once I did it I never heard that annoying light and indicator again
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When I saw the GASCAP indicator on my 2012 come on I cycled through the MENU button options and the light went out. It may come on again later but I thought it odd that it went out when I cycled through the MENU option on the steering wheel and hasn't come back on so far.
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Originally Posted by RaideRed View Post
I replaced the gas cap recently and it fixed the problem
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Originally Posted by MrSig View Post
I just had the same thing happen I replace the DETECTOR. Evaporative System Integrity Module. "ESIN" and reset the code and now my Jeep is fine.
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Originally Posted by cannonballgsu View Post
Here is something to check. When I bought my Jeep, the gas cap light was on. I bought a new gas cap, and it didn't fix the issue. I went over a ton of other things and finally I pulled the white module (no clue what it's called) off of the evap canister and there was no gasket there. I added a gasket, and the light went away. You could have a bad gasket, or like me, no gasket at all.



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I ordered a brand new locking gas cap, installed it, and within a couple of hours of driving time, has the gas cap error. Put the original cap back on and the error went away almost immediately. Returned the locking cap for a new one, installed it, and no issues since. Two important aspects of my experience: 1) new gas caps can be bad from the start, and 2) the gas cap error clears itself once a non failed cap is installed. These experiences are on a 2015 JKU Hard Rock.
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I went to the dealer yesterday and paid $99 for one hours worth of labor to have the system diagnosed. All of the hoses and gas-cap checked out to be working properly. The tech told me that the electronic part of the display in the instrument cluster was no good and said the entire cluster had to be replaced to get the GASCAP indicator light to go off. Needless to say I said no thank you for a $400 part and when home and disconnected the battery for about an hour and the GASCAP indicator light went out and hasn't come back on since.
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Originally Posted by RoadiJeff View Post
Don't celebrate too much just yet. When I was dealing with the GASCAP fault on my DD Chrysler vehicle I disconnected the battery to clear the fault after I installed a new OEM gas cap. Although it initially went away it reappeared about a week later.
Read through these posts for info.

Have any of you guys fixed or have info since you posted these posts.

Thanks.
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Old 09-09-2019, 10:19 AM   #36
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Check out this post if you haven't already.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/j...d-1511025.html
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Old 09-09-2019, 10:41 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by thegreatwhitenorth View Post
Read through these posts for info.

Have any of you guys fixed or have info since you posted these posts.

Thanks.
Yes. Mine turned out to be a dirty filter upstream of the ESIM switch. They replaced the gas cap, the ESIM switch several times and it would keep failing from being contaminated by the dirty filter. I told them that I could not be having THAT much bad luck with defective new parts. It would show various emissions codes such as GASCAP, P0456 and one or two others.

They eventually handed the problem over to one seasoned mechanic. He diagnosed the issue correctly. New filter, no more emissions faults for years after that.
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Old 09-09-2019, 11:37 PM   #38
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For a gascap issue one of the following is suspect

petrol cap
ESIM module
EVAP tank (canister)
evap lines
the simplest would be petrol cap first for replacement, next would be the ESIM, then your canister/evap lines lines


best thing to do is get a scan tool and see what it says, you most likely have a bad seal on your cap, just replace and see if that clesars the light

also another thing you may want to check is the little seal that goes between the ESIM and the actual vapor canister, if that gets pinched (like I accidently did when I was swapping out my old ESIM unit for a failed ESIM code) that will cause your issue as well.
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Old 09-11-2019, 10:29 AM   #39
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Check out this post if you haven't already.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/j...d-1511025.html
Thanks. Reading now.
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Old 09-11-2019, 10:31 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Jim74656 View Post
For a gascap issue one of the following is suspect

petrol cap
ESIM module
EVAP tank (canister)
evap lines
the simplest would be petrol cap first for replacement, next would be the ESIM, then your canister/evap lines lines


best thing to do is get a scan tool and see what it says, you most likely have a bad seal on your cap, just replace and see if that clesars the light

also another thing you may want to check is the little seal that goes between the ESIM and the actual vapor canister, if that gets pinched (like I accidently did when I was swapping out my old ESIM unit for a failed ESIM code) that will cause your issue as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadiJeff View Post
Yes. Mine turned out to be a dirty filter upstream of the ESIM switch. They replaced the gas cap, the ESIM switch several times and it would keep failing from being contaminated by the dirty filter. I told them that I could not be having THAT much bad luck with defective new parts. It would show various emissions codes such as GASCAP, P0456 and one or two others.

They eventually handed the problem over to one seasoned mechanic. He diagnosed the issue correctly. New filter, no more emissions faults for years after that.
Thanks guys, reading now and your posts are what people are saying.

Want to keep this to cost of a new mopar gascap.

I didnít know flashcal resets engine light, thatís cool I got that for the tire size thing. No more 80/100 bs.
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Old 09-13-2019, 11:02 AM   #41
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My Wife's has gotten the gascap indicator a couple times, and each time these made it go away:
EVAP Leak Detection Pump: 4861962AA (MSRP: $35)
EVAP Leak Detection Pump Gasket: 52129436AA (MSRP: $5)
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Old 09-25-2019, 06:45 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by thegreatwhitenorth View Post
Any news on this since you did that.

When you say super chip, would flashcal work the same like that. Just plugging in flashcal and going through a few menus and items and maybe make a change then change back, to reset the codes. Would that work
I'm guessing the Flashcal will work the same way. I haven't had any issues since.
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Old 09-26-2019, 10:20 AM   #43
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I'm guessing the Flashcal will work the same way. I haven't had any issues since.
Did the flashcal and it had two codes, it also listed what the codes were number and description.

Said it was left and right low beam circuit high something? Didnít say any5hing about gascap.

So I think I get new gascap.

Start asking questions about low beam, left and right, high circuit something.

Engine light did go off after a couple start engines, then came back on after a couple startups and drives. So must have to fix this low beam thing or it will come back on.

Going to do flashcal again, and make sure it says same thing, that itís the low beams and not gascap anything.
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Old 09-26-2019, 10:29 AM   #44
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Hey all,

Have a '12 jku with 58k on it and this morning in the odometer display a warning came up saying "gascap". Checked it and everything was fine and have turned the car off and on again from being out at least 5 times and it's still coming on. Anyone had this issue as well??
I did with my 08 Liberty, and before buying a new gas cap I did this which worked. I cleaned the gasket on the gas cap, and the surface it mates to on the fill neck. I rubbed a thin coat of dielectric grease onto the gasket on the gas cap, and wiped it with a rag. The light went out and stayed out for a few years now. I mentioned this trick to a few friends, including a board member here and it worked for them as well. I'm not saying it is going to help you but it is worth a try. If you have a small EVAP leak it won't work. Silicone grease might work instead of dielectric grease.
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Old 09-26-2019, 10:32 AM   #45
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I had this repeating gas cap issue once. It kept coming back. So I cleaned and treated the gas cap o-ring with Honda Shin-Estu silicon grease and the problem disappeared. I cleared the codes and never returned. I have 50K miles on it now.

Frank @demarpaint gave me that tip....

Been good ever since.

Edit: hey Frank, I can't believe we were writing at the same time.

;-)

.
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Old 09-26-2019, 11:41 AM   #46
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I had this repeating gas cap issue once. It kept coming back. So I cleaned and treated the gas cap o-ring with Honda Shin-Estu silicon grease and the problem disappeared. I cleared the codes and never returned. I have 50K miles on it now.

Frank @demarpaint gave me that tip....

Been good ever since.

Edit: hey Frank, I can't believe we were writing at the same time.

;-)

.
Hey Bob-

I hope all is well! 50K miles since, nice! Glad to hear it. I bet I logged 50 or 60K since myself since the fix. Needless to say it works sometimes.
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Old 09-27-2019, 02:29 AM   #47
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I did with my 08 Liberty, and before buying a new gas cap I did this which worked. I cleaned the gasket on the gas cap, and the surface it mates to on the fill neck. I rubbed a thin coat of dielectric grease onto the gasket on the gas cap, and wiped it with a rag. The light went out and stayed out for a few years now. I mentioned this trick to a few friends, including a board member here and it worked for them as well. I'm not saying it is going to help you but it is worth a try. If you have a small EVAP leak it won't work. Silicone grease might work instead of dielectric grease.
I am going to have to try those things.

I double checked the engine light again, to make sure it had the same two codes and this time it had 4, the two low beam codes, and a high beam code and the first time I saw the evap leak small .020

So I reset the codes and it took off two of them and know it show 2 codes. So really the jumpstarts come back until itís fixed even after clearing codes and engine light goes off, then comes back on later.

So yea I keep this page open on my iPad and get that stuff for gasket on gascap.

Thanks, I ll post when I see what happens.
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Old 09-27-2019, 07:28 AM   #48
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I am going to have to try those things.

I double checked the engine light again, to make sure it had the same two codes and this time it had 4, the two low beam codes, and a high beam code and the first time I saw the evap leak small .020

So I reset the codes and it took off two of them and know it show 2 codes. So really the jumpstarts come back until itís fixed even after clearing codes and engine light goes off, then comes back on later.

So yea I keep this page open on my iPad and get that stuff for gasket on gascap.

Thanks, I ll post when I see what happens.
Good luck. Sometimes an EVAP leak can be caused by the gas cap, sometimes. EVAP leaks can be tricky though and may require smoke testing to locate them. Good luck!
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Old 09-27-2019, 12:27 PM   #49
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Good luck. Sometimes an EVAP leak can be caused by the gas cap, sometimes. EVAP leaks can be tricky though and may require smoke testing to locate them. Good luck!
Thanks eh.

I am it doing 700 smoke tests and line testing. Better not. If I can reset the engine elitist before inspection sticker time then I good. Even if I got to get a new evap cap and gasket and silicone o ring gascap, do those things everytime before thatís fine.

I read people doing those smoke tests and nothing, after going through 700 at dealorships, then they say itís fine and do this. Screw that.

Hopefully none of that stinkin root beer.
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Old 09-28-2019, 01:29 PM   #50
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I did with my 08 Liberty, and before buying a new gas cap I did this which worked. I cleaned the gasket on the gas cap, and the surface it mates to on the fill neck. I rubbed a thin coat of dielectric grease onto the gasket on the gas cap, and wiped it with a rag. The light went out and stayed out for a few years now. I mentioned this trick to a few friends, including a board member here and it worked for them as well. I'm not saying it is going to help you but it is worth a try. If you have a small EVAP leak it won't work. Silicone grease might work instead of dielectric grease.
I used to put a smear of vaseline around the o-ring on the gas cap of my XJ before emissions testing (failed one year for that, had to pay for a retest). Never a problem since. Cheap insurance to avoid a fail or re-test.
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Old 09-28-2019, 01:44 PM   #51
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Anybody ever leave their cap off and not get a light? I did this once after filling up and didn't realize until 20 some miles later, never got a light.
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Old 09-28-2019, 02:29 PM   #52
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Anybody ever leave their cap off and not get a light? I did this once after filling up and didn't realize until 20 some miles later, never got a light.
Someone with more knowledge can correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the engine computer does a self check for evaporative losses at two different fuel levels. If you are between those two fuel levels in the tank, no self-check = no light or code thrown.

I have had the issue on our '16 with a bad tank of fuel when the vehicle was less than a year old. It threw a CEL, it cleared on its own, and threw a light again after a few days which also cleared. New tank of gas, and the problem never recurred (and it has been a year and a half). That tank of fuel had an odd solvent smell to it, and I haven't run into that problem since either.
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Old 01-23-2020, 05:41 PM   #53
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Good luck. Sometimes an EVAP leak can be caused by the gas cap, sometimes. EVAP leaks can be tricky though and may require smoke testing to locate them. Good luck!
Update.

I got the silicone grease and tried it. It didnít work at first, so I waited a bit. Then said well time to get a new gas cap.

The day I ordered the caps cap, about 3/4/5 wks after putting silicone grease on o ring.

The very next day I looked and the ck engine light was off. It stayed off then. Still to now the ck engine light is off.

So it took a few wks, after putting silicone grease on o ring, and the weather got a bit colder then the summer half of the yr, it sure if that helped.

Whala itís good. I also have a brand spanking new gas cap as a spare.
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Old 01-23-2020, 05:42 PM   #54
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I used to put a smear of vaseline around the o-ring on the gas cap of my XJ before emissions testing (failed one year for that, had to pay for a retest). Never a problem since. Cheap insurance to avoid a fail or re-test.
Yea the silicone grease worked. Took a few wks after putting it on, then once it settled? In ck engine light is off.

Whooooooo!
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Old 01-24-2020, 05:20 AM   #55
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Update.

I got the silicone grease and tried it. It didnít work at first, so I waited a bit. Then said well time to get a new gas cap.

The day I ordered the caps cap, about 3/4/5 wks after putting silicone grease on o ring.

The very next day I looked and the ck engine light was off. It stayed off then. Still to now the ck engine light is off.

So it took a few wks, after putting silicone grease on o ring, and the weather got a bit colder then the summer half of the yr, it sure if that helped.

Whala itís good. I also have a brand spanking new gas cap as a spare.
Good to hear. It can take a while for the code to clear itself especially in the winter, due to how the system is programmed. Also IIRC EVAP checks are not programmed to run when the fuel level is below 1/4 of a tank, and over 3/4 of a tank. I'm glad it worked for you, you're about the tenth person I mentioned this trick to who had it work.

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