Help Changing Axle Fluid Found White sealant around fill/drain plug - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 08-05-2011, 05:44 PM
Thread Starter
  #1
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 146
Help Changing Axle Fluid Found White sealant around fill/drain plug

I'm currently changing my axle fluid on my front and rear axles and found what appears to be some white type of thread locker or sealent around the drain plug of these axles, is there some sort of sealant I am supposed to use on the plugs? Thanks!

__________________
2011 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
chalex807 is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 06:40 PM   #2
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 2,310
It's a pipe thread and will leak if you don't put a sealant on it. The leak will probably be minimal, but still annoying. Just put some silicon RTV on it and it will be fine.

__________________
2012 Silver Sport S, Silver, 6 speed, soft top, 3.73s, LSD, PCG, Infiniti, deep tint windows, Pro Comp 1028 wheels, 33" Duratracs, Smittybilt bumpers and steps, KC fog lights, Mopar slush mats and fuel door.

Happiness is a belt fed weapon.
oilwell1415 is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 06:41 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
thefrog's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 160
Not sure what it could be. But nothing should be applied to those threads. No need. I would clean them off before putting them back in. Has the dealer or some other shop changed the axle fluid before or is this the first time?
__________________
2018 JLU Rubicon
thefrog is offline   Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-05-2011, 06:48 PM   #4
Jeeper
 
JIMBOX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9,914
Sure it's not teflon tape that someone else used ??

There's no relative pressure in the diff. I don'r use anthing and never leaks !!

Now if you start messing with the diff COVERS--there a leak problem --

I use (LUBE LOCKERS) gaskets--no leak-

JIMBO
__________________
"ya gotta have class"
JIMBOX is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 06:49 PM
Thread Starter
  #5
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 146
This is the first time I'm changing the fluid on this jeep. The axle fluid hasn't been changed from the dealer either. I'm at 12000 miles and figured it would be a good time to change it to synthetic oil. Also It's a rubicon with dana 44's and I just about finished the rear axle. I used the high temp loctite sealer (not thread locker) tighened down to 25lbs/sq in. I also noticed although it mentioned 2.35 quarts I couldn;t get much over 1.8 quarts. Another else jsut comes right back out the fill hole. I let it dran for a long time and it wasn't even dripping when i replaced the drain plug. Any reason why so much less than mentioned in the manual?
__________________
2011 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
chalex807 is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 07:01 PM   #6
Jeeper
 
JIMBOX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9,914
Drive it for ten minutes then checkit again and the axle housings should be filled--


Quote:
Originally Posted by chalex807 View Post
This is the first time I'm changing the fluid on this jeep. The axle fluid hasn't been changed from the dealer either. I'm at 12000 miles and figured it would be a good time to change it to synthetic oil. Also It's a rubicon with dana 44's and I just about finished the rear axle. I used the high temp loctite sealer (not thread locker) tighened down to 25lbs/sq in. I also noticed although it mentioned 2.35 quarts I couldn;t get much over 1.8 quarts. Another else jsut comes right back out the fill hole. I let it dran for a long time and it wasn't even dripping when i replaced the drain plug. Any reason why so much less than mentioned in the manual?
12,000 miles is awful soon for a change and it already has syn fluid init-

I hope you used 75w-90 --& don't forget the front, since you're doingem

I use Valvoline 75w-140 in mine and I fill on an angle so I get a little (not much) over the amount required !!

JIMBO
__________________
"ya gotta have class"
JIMBOX is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 07:09 PM
Thread Starter
  #7
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 146
I'm doing both didn't realize they weren't cheap at the factory and actually used synthetic oil. I'll drive it around after I finish the front and see if the back axle can take more oil when I get back.
__________________
2011 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
chalex807 is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 07:26 PM   #8
Get your Jeep dirty!!!

WF Supporting Member
 
Rogerg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 762
x2 what Jimbox said for I use teflon tape on the drain plugs.You dont have too but its an insurance i dont get any leak.
__________________
2008 Jeep X unlimited 4" Rancho Sport lift/17x9 Black Level 8 Alloys/37-12.5-17 Nitto Trail Grapplers
2006 Jeep Rubicon 5.5" Teraflex long arm+1" body lift/17x9 Procomp 7031 Alloys/37-12.5-17 Falken Wild Peak
Rogerg is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 07:29 PM   #9
MTH
Jeeper
 
MTH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 8,554
Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX
I hope you used 75w-90 --& don't forget the front, since you're doingem

I use Valvoline 75w-140 in mine and I fill on an angle so I get a little (not much) over the amount required !!
What's the upside/downside to 75w-90 versus 75w-140?

I'm coming up on 18k and figure I'll change mine. Does the Dana 30 front take the same amount?
__________________
Mike
2010 JKU "Mountain" Edition
TeraFlex 2.5" Coil Lift : Old Man Emu Nitrocharger Shocks : 33x12.5R15 Goodyear DuraTracs : 15x8 Black Rock 909s : Other Stuff . . .
MTH is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 08:27 PM   #10
Jeeper
 
JIMBOX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9,914
Take a look at the angle I'm talking about--


Quote:
Originally Posted by chalex807 View Post
I'm doing both didn't realize they weren't cheap at the factory and actually used synthetic oil. I'll drive it around after I finish the front and see if the back axle can take more oil when I get back.
Now when I do the front diff. it's at a BACK angle, of probably 15% and this sets the diff. fill plug hole, higher so you can actually put MORE fluid in--then back-up the driveway for the rear diff. Kapish ?



Course if you don'r have an angled driveway-it's kinda moot !!

Ciao

JIMBO
__________________
"ya gotta have class"
JIMBOX is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 08:37 PM   #11
Jeeper
 
JIMBOX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9,914
I'm a little late Mike, no the D30 takes less than the d44( I think), but the manual recommends syn. 75w-90 and ONLY 75w-140 (REAR) if you tow or do 4wd a lot (I do) so I use 75w-140 in both Diff.s


Quote:
Originally Posted by MTH View Post
What's the upside/downside to 75w-90 versus 75w-140?

I'm coming up on 18k and figure I'll change mine. Does the Dana 30 front take the same amount?
The only diff between the two is the 75w-140 is formulated to take longer/higher op temps and wear pressures and---

An LSD additive, is included in the 75w-140--

It costs a little more but I gotta break, cause I bought a case (12 qts) which turned out at $13.89 a qt and the front/rear d44s take about 3½ qts--

I'm not sure what your d30 takes--google it !!

Ciao

JIMBO
__________________
"ya gotta have class"
JIMBOX is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 08:41 PM   #12
MTH
Jeeper
 
MTH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 8,554
^^cool, thanks. That's about what I figured.
__________________
Mike
2010 JKU "Mountain" Edition
TeraFlex 2.5" Coil Lift : Old Man Emu Nitrocharger Shocks : 33x12.5R15 Goodyear DuraTracs : 15x8 Black Rock 909s : Other Stuff . . .
MTH is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 08:45 PM
Thread Starter
  #13
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 146
So I tried to fill the front as well on a completely level surface inside my garage and the axle only took maybe slightly more than one quart. I then drove it about 4 miles figuring may it needs to get mixed around a bit or something. I opened both the front and rear fill plugs which are the plugs that look to be halfway up the diff and tried to add more to no avail. More just came out as I added stuff.

I'd say the rear took around 1.8 qts and the front too maybe 1.5 quarts. I could try your technic with the driveway but of course this would take even more time now for this damn job. It's taken enough time and frustration with all the spilled oil.

Is there any chance I was using the wrong fill plug? I followed this guide:
Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Jeep JK Wrangler Maintenance Differential Fluid Change Write-Up

Also the fluid that came out of the rear diff looked almost black as the front oil looked relatively new. I used 75W-90 Mobile One synthetic on both axles.

I must say this was far more frustrating than any other thing I've had to do on the jeep before.
__________________
2011 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
chalex807 is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 08:47 PM
Thread Starter
  #14
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 146
I also wanted to point out that when I opened the front and rear diff fill plugs oil spilled out as if they were over filled from the factory to begin with.

I think tomorrow I'll do your trick on the driveway and add a bit more oil to both axles using the tilt of the driveway to allow me to add more.
__________________
2011 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
chalex807 is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 08:57 PM   #15
Jeeper
 
JIMBOX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9,914
Yea, there's only one drain plug and one fill plug--


Quote:
Originally Posted by chalex807 View Post
So I tried to fill the front as well on a completely level surface inside my garage and the axle only took maybe slightly more than one quart. I then drove it about 4 miles figuring may it needs to get mixed around a bit or something. I opened both the front and rear fill plugs which are the plugs that look to be halfway up the diff and tried to add more to no avail. More just came out as I added stuff.

I'd say the rear took around 1.8 qts and the front too maybe 1.5 quarts. I could try your technic with the driveway but of course this would take even more time now for this damn job. It's taken enough time and frustration with all the spilled oil.

Is there any chance I was using the wrong fill plug? I followed this guide:
Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Jeep JK Wrangler Maintenance Differential Fluid Change Write-Up

Also the fluid that came out of the rear diff looked almost black as the front oil looked relatively new. I used 75W-90 Mobile One synthetic on both axles.

I must say this was far more frustrating than any other thing I've had to do on the jeep before.
You're OK, I suggest you give it 100 miles, then check the rear (Backed up driveway) and it'll take several more OZ,it's supposed to hold 2.3 qts, and the rear has the axles run in fluid and the front doesn't !!

The front is OK it just goes along for the ride () and is "worked" seldom anyway--

The color of the rear fluid will be from dark grey to black--thats normal-

This isn't something you have to do very often,. especially if it's a DD, your front Diff just spins free (Kinda backward), so that fluid doesn't get much wear--check you maintenance manual and it'll give you schedule for changes !!

Somebody else can tell you, all my manual/maintenance/jeeps--in Nevada and I ain't !!

Ciao

JIMBO

JIMBO
__________________
"ya gotta have class"
JIMBOX is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 09:06 PM   #16
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 2,310
The capacities listed in the manual are guestimates and usually are based on what it takes to fill a conventional differential. Limited slips and lockers usually take quite a bit less because there is more metal spinning around under the fluid level. How much less depends on the design of the diff.

As someone else mentioned, the front will take less than the rear because you don't have to put any fluid in the axle tubes.
__________________
2012 Silver Sport S, Silver, 6 speed, soft top, 3.73s, LSD, PCG, Infiniti, deep tint windows, Pro Comp 1028 wheels, 33" Duratracs, Smittybilt bumpers and steps, KC fog lights, Mopar slush mats and fuel door.

Happiness is a belt fed weapon.
oilwell1415 is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 09:09 PM   #17
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 764
I changed both of mine at 4500 miles when I did my first oil change. It was really nasty looking, and kind of shocked me. I went with 85-140 valvoline synthetic as I drive mostly interstate highways at high speeds. Also at high ambient temps in the spring and summer. The d30 and d44 held right at 3 quarts, about 1 in front and 2 in rear. I drove 400 miles Tuesday at 75 to 80 mph in 116 degree heat. Put your heat gun on that one baby. Pipe threads will seal themselves if they have a little gun grease or even gear lube on clean threads. Nobody in the trucking industry uses Teflon or silicone on the diff fill plugs and they never leak if tightened properly. Mine looked like they had that sealant on the treads that comes on some pipe fittings so you don't need anything so you can dry fit and not have to worry about leaks. It is usually reddish in color but some can be whitish. Mine was whitish and no it was not leftover Teflon tape. Liquid Teflon maybe. But probably that dry stuff that was on the plug when they installed it at the factory. Oh and beings I have the tow package, and if I ever need to tow with my torque monster, I will already have the proper weight diff fluid.
KSCRUDE is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 09:19 PM   #18
Jeeper
 
JIMBOX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9,914
That sounds about right--


Quote:
Originally Posted by KSCRUDE View Post
I changed both of mine at 4500 miles when I did my first oil change. It was really nasty looking, and kind of shocked me. I went with 85-140 valvoline synthetic as I drive mostly interstate highways at high speeds. Also at high ambient temps in the spring and summer. The d30 and d44 held right at 3 quarts, about 1 in front and 2 in rear. I drove 400 miles Tuesday at 75 to 80 mph in 116 degree heat. Put your heat gun on that one baby. Pipe threads will seal themselves if they have a little gun grease or even gear lube on clean threads. Nobody in the trucking industry uses Teflon or silicone on the diff fill plugs and they never leak if tightened properly. Mine looked like they had that sealant on the treads that comes on some pipe fittings so you don't need anything so you can dry fit and not have to worry about leaks. It is usually reddish in color but some can be whitish. Mine was whitish and no it was not leftover Teflon tape. Liquid Teflon maybe. But probably that dry stuff that was on the plug when they installed it at the factory. Oh and beings I have the tow package, and if I ever need to tow with my torque monster, I will already have the proper weight diff fluid.

After my 5.38 gear breakin, my YUKON gears generally operate at 135°/145° after a freeway run, the front doesn't get over 85° and I also use the Valvoline 75W-140--filled as I described above post, it's about 3½ qts--

Now towing my trailer the rear diff has seen 180° and 190° but those YUKONS are top quality (quiet) gears !!

JIMBO
__________________
"ya gotta have class"
JIMBOX is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 09:58 PM   #19
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 764
On a related subject I really would like to regear as my 373 ratio is way to high for highway speeds. At 75 to 80 mph it spends as much time in third gear as it does in fourth. Fourth gear at 80 mph is about 22 hundred rpm and third gear jumps it to about 32 hundred. I am thinking around 456 to the 488 range as I am on the stock rubber on 18 inch sahara wheels. I don't ever plan to go bigger. What will a set of Yukon gears set me back I wonder? I am sure it is way cheaper then trading for a new 12.
KSCRUDE is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 10:00 PM   #20
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 2,310
Pipe threads are designed to use a sealer. Yes, you can get them to seal without it if you tighten it enough. You can also crack your diff case if you tighten it enough. I've seen it done twice, once on a GM and once on a Dodge. You're much better off with a sealer to fill the small voids than tightening it until the metal is forced to yield to fill them.
__________________
2012 Silver Sport S, Silver, 6 speed, soft top, 3.73s, LSD, PCG, Infiniti, deep tint windows, Pro Comp 1028 wheels, 33" Duratracs, Smittybilt bumpers and steps, KC fog lights, Mopar slush mats and fuel door.

Happiness is a belt fed weapon.
oilwell1415 is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 10:17 PM   #21
Jeeper
 
JIMBOX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9,914
I'm gonna assume auto right ?


Quote:
Originally Posted by KSCRUDE View Post
On a related subject I really would like to regear as my 373 ratio is way to high for highway speeds. At 75 to 80 mph it spends as much time in third gear as it does in fourth. Fourth gear at 80 mph is about 22 hundred rpm and third gear jumps it to about 32 hundred. I am thinking around 456 to the 488 range as I am on the stock rubber on 18 inch sahara wheels. I don't ever plan to go bigger. What will a set of Yukon gears set me back I wonder? I am sure it is way cheaper then trading for a new 12.
Don't ever consider 4.56 gears a total waste of money--

If you're sure you'll never go bigger in tires--4.88, but

Like anybody else--you'll probably change your mind--then the 4.88s won't be the right gear, so

----5.13s are the next best (5.38 best), but you haven't gotta rubi, so 5.13s and

You can finally use your O/D--SOLID--and you'll start getting better mileage and feel mopre power--

The cost will vary, depending on the shop that ORDERS/INSTALLS THEM--from about $1200 bucks to $1500-depending on lockers (?) diff covers-etc--check around some popular axle shops for prices--

Mine cost $1958 for 5.38 YUKONs/full installation kits/Bearings/LUBELOCKER gaskets/Synergy (ZirK) Ball joints--it's notta cheap mod !!

You'll be able to use O/D and your hiwy rpms will be around 2200/2300 rpm and it'll feel like a new jeep !!

Good luck

JIMBO
__________________
"ya gotta have class"
JIMBOX is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2011, 10:41 PM   #22
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 764
Yes auto. 513 is probably as big as I can go without changing carriers I have herd. I like to cruise at around the 70 to 75 range as they just raised our speed limits to 75 in Kansas. Driving to Vegas about 3 weeks ago I noticed it was 80 in parts of Utah on I 70 and I think some 80 mph on parts of I 15. I wasn't in the wrangler though. I think you posted once where the four wheel shop was in Nevada that did yours but I can't recall. I have a place in Nevada and am out there a lot so I could always have them do it. No four wheel shops close to me in Kansas, none I would trust any way.
KSCRUDE is offline   Quote
Old 08-06-2011, 08:07 AM   #23
Jeeper
 
JIMBOX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9,914
Heh Heh, you gave me another excuse to show this pic-


Quote:
Originally Posted by KSCRUDE View Post
Yes auto. 513 is probably as big as I can go without changing carriers I have herd. I like to cruise at around the 70 to 75 range as they just raised our speed limits to 75 in Kansas. Driving to Vegas about 3 weeks ago I noticed it was 80 in parts of Utah on I 70 and I think some 80 mph on parts of I 15. I wasn't in the wrangler though. I think you posted once where the four wheel shop was in Nevada that did yours but I can't recall. I have a place in Nevada and am out there a lot so I could always have them do it. No four wheel shops close to me in Kansas, none I would trust any way.




This is Northern Nevada, right off of I80 East of Reno and right around the hill from this Brothel, is Off-Road Innovations (ORI) and they do the mods-wonderful people and there's a reason for my pic-but I've already toldit--

I also said that with your O/D--5.13s will give you hiwy cruising at acceptable RPMS, with good mileage--so consider the regear !!

Ciao

JIMBO
__________________
"ya gotta have class"
JIMBOX is offline   Quote
Old 08-06-2011, 08:47 AM   #24
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 764
Looks like I would have a place to stay while they are doing my gears! Just kidding! About how far is this from North Las Vegas. Never been to Reno. And how long does a gear swap take? Thanks for all the info JIMBOX.
KSCRUDE is offline   Quote
Old 08-06-2011, 09:04 AM   #25
Jeeper
 
JIMBOX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9,914
Thanx KS-this Brothel/industry/warehouses/industry center-is in PATRICK, Nv and it's


Quote:
Originally Posted by KSCRUDE View Post
Looks like I would have a place to stay while they are doing my gears! Just kidding! About how far is this from North Las Vegas. Never been to Reno. And how long does a gear swap take? Thanks for all the info JIMBOX.
15 minutes East of Reno, 7 hrs North of Las Vegas and 15 minutes from my house in Fernley-

The regear job usually takes 12 hrs, unless you're having other things done, I did, so mine was a two day job, the ORI charges $55 bucks/hr-

I know there must be some big-GOOD- shops in Vegas

Believe me, if you buy gears yourself--DON"T try to regear without a PRO withyou-

There's a lotta particulars in regearing and the special procedure isn't for the timid /untrained--

Check out Vegas for some prices/quality and availability--

Good luck

JIMBO

__________________
"ya gotta have class"
JIMBOX is offline   Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
axle build from east coast gear supply AdrenalineJunky45 Builders Corner 29 03-23-2011 09:15 PM
Axle fluid leaking Hendy TJ Tech Forum 0 09-14-2010 06:04 PM
rear axle leaking after fluid change?? HOW? Covrace YJ General Discussion Forum 19 06-22-2009 09:12 PM
Axle Fluid Recommendations. Timberman TJ General Discussion Forum 2 03-05-2009 04:53 PM
Front and rear axle fluid Jick TJ Tech Forum 4 03-28-2006 10:44 PM





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:07 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, Gladiator, Mopar and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to FCA US LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with FCA US LLC.