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jk brake upgrade

10K views 52 replies 22 participants last post by  bill61 
#1 ·
has anyone had experience with wilwood jk setup or the teraflex delta setup.

looking into getting one of those two setups for my jk which has a ton of extra weight and 35in tires, stopping is a nightmare. want to get the good system without breaking the bank but also if anyone has information as to who built the teraflex system or if it was in house would be great

as of right now my two options are the wilwood and the teraflex delta if there are other suggestions on systems used that work great would love to hear about it.

thanks
 
#12 ·
Dynatrac has larger rotors, Front 13.5 vs 13.3, Rear 14.25 vs 13.5
 
#13 ·
Answering my own question from their respective product pages...

Teraflex ~$740 (front ~$315 & rear ~$425):
• 13.30-inch front rotors
• 13.50-inch rear rotors, retains internal factory parking brake
• Brake caliper relocating anchor brackets that retain factory brake calipers & pads

ProGrip ~$1095 for front & rear:
• 13.50-inch front rotors with unique pillar-vented cooling design
• 14.25-inch rear rotors with integral parking brake surface
• Stronger caliper brackets (retains factory brake calipers)
• Unique front and rear brake pads
 
#14 ·
I think Teraflex may have hit a home run with there Delta brake system. $2200 for 4 piston calipers and 14 inch vent rotors front and rear. This is at least $1000 cheaper than competing systems. The only questions I have does the rear brake rotor still retain the parking brake? Hard to tell from the pictures and description does not state it. And is the pad size common, i.e. if we want to run a different compound can we?
 
#15 ·
FWIW, I asked a buddy of mine about rotors because he is a real car guy and built and raced his own GT race car. He also agreed that the drilled and slotted rotors are for bling and they have a tendency to crack when constantly overheated. He recommended a solid rotor.
 
#22 ·
After reading the IMOs. All have very valid points; however, Not a single person noted that drilled and slotted Can do caking mud/ slop on the pads if you off road. Just IMO..
 
#23 ·
Dynatrac, while expensive, is the way to go. I dragged my RZR from Illinois to Moab, Utah last year and never once felt I needed any more braking power. This was with 35” tires, no trailer brakes, and through the mountains. Easy installation, I did it on my driveway one corner at a time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#31 ·
i finally got around to getting my car on the road after doing the brakes and other add ons i drove with the stock brake booster and master cylinder at first to see if there would be a huge difference when i installed the j8 brake booster and master.

on sock it stopped good but very mushy pedal after i finally installed the j8 much firmer pedal and way better stopping all in all so far i'm loving the teraflex delta system huge upgrade from stock brakes well worth the upgrade for me.

thanks to everyone who helped and gave opinions
 
#33 ·
I just installed the Dynatrac Progrips today. Big difference in stopping power. Very happy with them so far. Installation was extremely easy also.
 
#34 · (Edited)
Is there any potential interference with the Dynatrac Progrips and the metalcloak front outboard shock mounts? After taking a quick look, it's clear the outboard shock mounts push out a lot closer to the brake caliper, and it seems it could be a tight fit with the Progrips shifting the caliper out further radially.

I see @HKLover and @TerryC6 you're both running the MC GC, are you using the outboard shock mounts without trouble?
 
#36 ·
I am running 6Paks so the bolt on outboard shock mount does not apply.
 
#35 ·
Adding a couple pictures of the outboard shock mount clearance to the stock brake setup. I also have stock wheels with 1.75" spacers, but that shouldn't matter for clearance between caliper and shock/mount, and my clearance to the inside of the wheel should be fine with the spacers.
 

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#37 ·
Thanks Terry, didn't realize the 6 packs don't use the same outboard mount. Mr. HK's signature shows the same Rocksport shocks as mine so hopefully he'll have some good news for me.
 
#41 ·
@PuNiShErR can you give me an update on the Delta kit. You gave a quick review after short driving it looks like. I am curious if it is worth it or not.

What do you have on your JK that needed it?

I have
37 bfg 17" aev
teraflex aluminum steps
front/rear steel bumpers winch
rhino rack pioneer
powertank
2 fire extinguishers
3 sets of skis in winter
3 skinny passengers
supplies etc
maxtrax/small roof box
2 rotopax

I upgraded the rear brakes a couple of months ago with Powerstop rotors and truck and tow brake pads. I did notice they helped...but I have been adding more stuff

soon to come I will put a Ripp supercharger...So I don't want to cheap on my brakes...but of course don't want to spend money foolishly
 
#42 ·
So far 3k miles later i feel the brakes are great very huge improvement over stock and i mean huge i only did the front teraflex and kept my rear stock and it’s really worth it in my opinion i had a lot of issues stopping with the added weight and the 35’s before.
Now I’m on 37’s and stopping is way better.

just to point out i ask did the bigger brakebooster and master cylinder that they recommend with those brakes.
 
#43 ·
Yes I saw that you did the Brake booster and master cylinder. I was not excited about that portion as I have an ARB air compressor installed in front of that and hoping everything would fit together.

What kind of additional weight do you have no your Jeep?
 
#47 ·
The Mopar Big Brake Kit is essentially the Ram 1500 brakes complete front set M/C Booster rotors Calipers and it works exceptional. I have years running it and is flawless. The good thing is it is all Mopar get anywhere stuff and covered under my warranty.
 
#52 ·
I suspect that the proportioning of brake force on Wranglers is more rear biased than on typical vehicle (probably still front biased, but less biased than typical). Given the Jeep's high center of gravity and the suspension setup, this was probably done to reduce front end dive during hard braking.

I also think that's why rear pads get eaten up when you do a rear brake upgrade kit that just relocates the stock caliper. While you greatly improve braking effectiveness with increased leverage, the tradeoff is that the rear pads will travel a greater distance per wheel revolution, and therefore, pad wear will increase proportionally. You are also continuing to use a relatively tiny OEM sized pad on a considerably larger rotor, so pad life will also decrease proportionally.

There's a reason why OEMs who spec large rotors on their vehicles always couple that with equally massive brake pads to restore pad life.
 
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