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Old 03-16-2016, 04:00 PM
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KC HiLites Windshield Side Mounts Off-road

Just curious if anyone runs these, if they put your a pillar lights in harm's way for trail damage?

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Old 03-16-2016, 11:05 PM   #2
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I've had them for 2 years without incident. They don't stick out nearly as far as your mirrors.


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Old 03-16-2016, 11:11 PM   #3
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I've had them for 2 years without incident. They don't stick out nearly as far as your mirrors.
Oh man, that wiring looks ghetto! I'm shocked!
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Old 03-16-2016, 11:39 PM   #4
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I also have them for few months and had no problem
here are couple of pics
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:53 AM   #5
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No contact with the mirrors when you open your doors???
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:57 AM   #6
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No contact with the mirrors when you open your doors???
Not at all.
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:04 AM   #7
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Have you thought about the cube version? They don't get in the way at all, and do not block anything during the day.
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:37 AM   #8
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Oh man, that wiring looks ghetto! I'm shocked!
LOL, I explained in the original thread I made on the KC Gravity LEDs that I had just plugged them into the existing wiring harness I had for the previous KC Slimlight 130 Halogens that were on those brackets, but hadn't shortened the harness yet to fit the pigtail on the Gravities. I've since tidied it all up, so it now looks "Gated Community on the trendy north side."

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Old 03-17-2016, 08:43 AM   #9
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Attachment 2895169

Have you thought about the cube version? They don't get in the way at all, and do not block anything during the day.
OP might like those just fine, but I suspect, since the cubes are what you see everywhere and it would be hard not to have run across them already, that he may have the same thinking as me -- namely, I like the old-school look of big round KCs on a Jeep, echoing the round headlights, running lights, fog lights, etc. And when you want 6" rounds at the base of the windshield, using the brackets you've got puts them right up in your field of view and, depending on your seat height, lift height and torso length, can block your view of traffic or pedestrians as you make a slow left turn. So mounting them on the outboard brackets makes more sense for us roundies.
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:49 AM   #10
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Attachment 2895169

Have you thought about the cube version? They don't get in the way at all, and do not block anything during the day.
Looks good. Forgive my ignorance (still a new Jeeper here) - do you remove the cowl completely to run the wires?
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Old 03-17-2016, 09:57 AM   #11
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I really,really like the look of the classic KC 6" rounds whether it be Apollos or Daylighters.

They don't get in the way of anything, view or interfere with the doors opening....and they have bush-rock guards on them to protect while bush whacking...love 'em.
I kept the wiring as neat and tidy(non ghetto LOL!!) as I could.
Personally I don't like the cubes,yeah I know they don't draw as much power..yada..yada..yada....hey plain and simple they don't look anywhere near as cool as the 6" rounds with the rock-brush guards...and....being from a northern climate I like the fact that the KC halogens heat up to keep them clear of ice and snow...form following function...gotta love it!!!
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:00 AM   #12
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I've since tidied it all up, so it now looks "Gated Community on the trendy north side."
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:45 AM   #13
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Not to hijack the thread but a question for you guys since you're all running A-Pillar mounted lights. Which light pattern did you go with? I've heard the popular option is spot but find some people mount driving on that location as well. Thoughts?
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:53 AM
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Thanks for all the comments so far everyone.

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Originally Posted by MisterWrangler View Post
I also have them for few months and had no problem
here are couple of pics
Good to hear. And looks great!

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Originally Posted by NoGaBiker View Post

OP might like those just fine, but I suspect, since the cubes are what you see everywhere and it would be hard not to have run across them already, that he may have the same thinking as me -- namely, I like the old-school look of big round KCs on a Jeep, echoing the round headlights, running lights, fog lights, etc. And when you want 6" rounds at the base of the windshield, using the brackets you've got puts them right up in your field of view and, depending on your seat height, lift height and torso length, can block your view of traffic or pedestrians as you make a slow left turn. So mounting them on the outboard brackets makes more sense for us roundies.
Yep, exactly this. I feel like there's no other way to go for Jeep lighting except round KCs with that iconic logo. Plus these would allow me to fit a rugged ridge snorkel if I ever decide it's worth the install effort.

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I've had them for 2 years without incident. They don't stick out nearly as far as your mirrors.
I thought about this (the mirrors), although I run doorless or just lowers a lot too. But, so far a unanimous 2-0 to go for it.
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:35 AM   #15
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Not to hijack the thread but a question for you guys since you're all running A-Pillar mounted lights. Which light pattern did you go with? I've heard the popular option is spot but find some people mount driving on that location as well. Thoughts?
I run spots on the A-pillar, Driving on the bumper.



Or, if you prefer the Orange/Utah/Flattie version:

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Old 03-17-2016, 11:41 AM   #16
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Daylighter Driving light pattern on the pillars, Apollo fogs on the bumper. Great combo IMO.
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Old 03-17-2016, 09:04 PM   #17
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I have Daylighter driving beam pattern simply because they are SAE/ECE Street Legal.

http://www.kchilites.com/downloads/d...data_sheet.pdf
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Old 04-10-2016, 12:18 AM   #18
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I run spots on the A-pillar, Driving on the bumper.



Or, if you prefer the Orange/Utah/Flattie version:

what is the cover on the winch? I have the same one and I had the vinyl cover on it and in an emergency I had to cut the strings to get it off quickly. (almost rolled the jeep down a hill in the desert )
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:01 AM   #19
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:13 AM   #20
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what is the cover on the winch? I have the same one and I had the vinyl cover on it and in an emergency I had to cut the strings to get it off quickly. (almost rolled the jeep down a hill in the desert )
1) I have a SB vinyl cover for this winch, used for one week while the Jeep was parked at a friend's house. I got back and decided I liked to see the winch (vanity, I know) so I put it in the basement for the last year. About to put it on eBay, hoping to get half price ($22) so if anybody's interested pm me.

2) I made the pictured cover to cover only the rope. It was fairly involved but here's the basics:

a) remove the front cross-bar piece the holds the two sides of the frame together. The one with the giant SmittyBilt logo on it. Hopefully you've mounted the contactor on the left side, not the center. If it's in the center, move it.



b) screw around with it in your garage using various destructive tools till you are able to cut the flat part of the bar off of the inner structural "rail" that actually connects the right and left sides together with the two allen head screws. If you look at the image above, the flat plate is actually formed at the bottom into a loop, like taking a piece of notebook paper, holding it vertically and curling the bottom edge into a loop. Inside the SB logo plate loop is the steel bolt that actually matters. You just need to get that out of the enclosure. I know I tried several methods -- basically, you need to pry the "loop" open at the bottom so you can slip the bolt out.

c) once you've gotten the bolt free, discard the nameplate. Now comes the tricky part: search around your basement till you find a piece of hollow rod about 1/2" diameter. Make sure the ID is big enough to accept the bolt. What you're doing is making a larger sheath for the front bolt that is as close to identical as the one already on the back bolt. I got incredibly lucky in that this piece of hollow rod was just in my basement. No idea where it came from.




d) cut rod to length, slide bolt through rod, insert screws into bolt ends and voila! that part's finished, as shown above.

e) now the easy part. Back to the basement. Take the cover off the old Sony 400-disc CD changer (man, was the iPod ever a game changer, or what?) that sits atop one of the shelves. Measure the proper dimensions to cover your rope, then cut with jig saw to those dimensions. Not so easy to do freehand, as the thin sheet aluminum is bucking and bouncing all over. (See wavy rear edge.)

d) precisely measure the diameter of your old and new rods. If they're the same like mine you can order 4 of the same clips. If different, order 2 sets of different sizes.


e) now comes the hard part again: try and find the sons-of-bitches online. I searched for "steel spring clips", but most hits feature this (which would work fine, I suppose).



I was worried that with all the force of a 70mph wind these might not be strong enough. I wanted this kind:



But those are for pegboard -- I wanted a one-hole solution. Not only is it easier and looks better from the top, but as you can see, the edge of the front two clips need to be right up against the fold in the cover. I've searched just now and can't find the dang things anymore.

Good luck with all that. Or you could just send me $22 and get another vinyl cover!

Finished product (with trail camera mounted.)

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Old 04-10-2016, 08:28 AM   #21
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- do you remove the cowl completely to run the wires?

You can remove it if you feel it's needed, but you can probably get by with just loosening a few of the screws and lifting the cowl where needed as you fish the wires through.

That is the route that I went when I mounted my lights. I'm off the old school opinion too where I like the round lights, but I was too cheap to spend the money on the 6 inch KC LEDs. I went with some 3.5 inch lights from Inspired Engineering on the A pillars and some 4 inch ones on the bumper from Quadatec.

Spot pattern on the A Pillar and flood pattern on the bumper.

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