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Lift Kits? Lift Kits? Lift Kits!?!?

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lift kits
5K views 37 replies 22 participants last post by  Jedison 
#1 ·
As a guy who (this is sad to say but I didn't have much of a dad growing up to teach me these things) doesn't know much about the mechanics of vehicles, I have learned a lot from reading the hundreds of posts on here regarding all walks of jeep life. I swear some of you are Jeep gods (No, I will not list names. Don't want anyone's ego to get big :D). But I still have not come any closer in figuring out what is right for me:banghead:
So I ask all of you. Please give me your input.

I have a brand new 2013 Wrangler S that I want to get lifted. This is my dd, so I'm not looking at anything crazy like a 3.5" lift. I do want to take it off roading and do some moderately rock crawling, but I still would like to keep something of a decent gas mileage :)rofl:) and have good stability/traction while driving in the city.

The Rubicon 2.5" lift looks promising. So does TeraFlex's.
But should I be focusing more on anti-rock or SwayLoc?

Also I have learned that it would be wise to have disconnect swaybars. Should this be something I buy separately from whatever suspension lift kit I get or together? If I buy it separately are there things I need to look for to make sure it works with whatever suspension lift kit I get?

How big of a factor are lockers playing in with all of this?

:confused::confused:
 
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#2 ·
#3 ·
Just a comment about lockers. Been wheeling 6 times and I've only needed lockers twice. This weekend we were climbing a big hill. The sport in the group took about 10 tries and only got up by backing up and gunning it. The video was my second try and first with lockers. So Lockers you don't need too often but they sure make it easy.

Rausch Creek - Climbing a Big Steep Hill - YouTube
 
#18 ·
Just a comment about lockers. Been wheeling 6 times and I've only needed lockers twice. This weekend we were climbing a big hill. The sport in the group took about 10 tries and only got up by backing up and gunning it. The video was my second try and first with lockers. So Lockers you don't need too often but they sure make it easy.
Help me out here. I'm debating 1) whether to get lockers or not and 2) where they should fall in the order of upgrades.

For item #1, there isn't any publically accessible technical wheeling within a 2 hour driving range of the D.C. area that requires lockers*. A state of the art locker front and rear seems to be about $3000+ installed. I don't mind spending the $$$ but how many times will I actually need it? Given that I have decent M&S tires, an OEM limited slip rear diff, and a winch I'm not sure the cost/benefit is there for me. For $3k, I could go on a really nice vacation. I'll probably get them but the frugal part in me is thinking how to justify it.

*the only exception would be deep snow wheeling but then that's only for a few times during the year and chains would probably work better.

For item #2, where exactly do lockers fall into the order of upgrades for a D.C. area wheeler? I have said winch, decent lighting, front sway bar disconnects, and some undercarriage armor. On the to do list in no particular order is a roof cargo rack, more forward lighting, improved rear lighting, a 2 1/2" lift kit, and more undercarriage armor.

Sorry for thread jacking.
 
#4 ·
I just had the RK 2.5 max travel installed yesterday. I have to tell you it's a great improvement over stock. It's a more complete lift than treadles. You know what they say you get what you pay for. It's well built. Haven't taken it offload yet but I'm sure it won't disappoint. If you have the money do it right and do it once. Don't want to spend money and then be disappointed.
 
#16 ·
Does MetalCloak make a 2.5" for 2 doors?
 
#6 ·
My 2 cents on the matter. Whatever disconnects you choose, make sure they are appropriately long for whatever suspension lift you choose. I would get some that attach to your vehicle when they are disconnected and are not zip tied or whatever. You can accomplish the same thing by removing your stock ones to see how big a difference disconnecting makes.
Lockers do not have to be expensive. Do some research on Aussie Lockers, many people have installed them on their front Dana 30's in their garage at home. Its a little confusing but with patience and watching plenty of videos you too can do it.
I have found that generally we break parts when the vehicle is pushed beyond its limits, so Lockers will push the limit a little further, they will allow you to go further with less stress on parts because you are not having to hammer down on the gas pedal.
Really, do whatever you think will get you to the end of the trail, test your Jeep's limits, it will tell you when you cant go any further, by either breaking or just not making it. Buy a tow strap some armor and a winch.
MetalCloak is awesome by the way, I love my MetalCloak stuff.
 
#8 ·
Lockers do not have to be expensive. Do some research on Aussie Lockers, many people have installed them on their front Dana 30's in their garage at home. Its a little confusing but with patience and watching plenty of videos you too can do it.

Really, do whatever you think will get you to the end of the trail, test your Jeep's limits, it will tell you when you cant go any further, by either breaking or just not making it. Buy a tow strap some armor and a winch.
MetalCloak is awesome by the way, I love my MetalCloak stuff.
I have an open diff in the rear and want lockers for muddy trails and hills. Would you suggest getting an auto locker for the front or rear? I don't want anything where the clutches will wear out. My budget is $500 MAX and I need a winch first.
 
#7 ·
Aye. I do plan on eventually getting new bumpers, a winch, and some rock guards/rails as well. But I want to start off with good lift first. I hate buying something and then realizing that it isn't what I need. Speaking of rock rails. Is it safe to use those as a step? I'm thinking about whenever I have a date and how in the world she is going to be able to get into my jeep. I like my women short :)
 
#10 ·
You posted that you wanted a lift and everyone started giving you suggestions, however you need to get the horse back in front of the cart. What size tires are you planning to get? Have you ever driven off road?
 
#33 ·
You posted that you wanted a lift and everyone started giving you suggestions, however you need to get the horse back in front of the cart. What size tires are you planning to get? Have you ever driven off road?
I am in the same spot Jadison was in back at the beginning of this post but even more confused now.

dag ... I was thinking about some really nice 33", I have been off road a couple of times but nothing to crazy. Don't need any rollovers or big time rock climbs but would like to trail ride. Wanting to go to Moab and live way over in Oklahoma so need to have good hwy driving. I have a 2013 Wrangler 2 dr. Talk to me!!
 
#14 ·
daggo66 said:
You posted that you wanted a lift and everyone started giving you suggestions, however you need to get the horse back in front of the cart. What size tires are you planning to get? Have you ever driven off road?
I was thinking 33s and have only taken her off road twice so far. Nothing big. Just some hills and a bit of rocky terrain(small rocks). I don't mind spending up to a grand on a lift, I just want to do it right the first time :)
 
#15 ·
Smokinjoe said:
X2 on Rock Krawler but not knowing your budget ;) You said you want to do it once:) I would get RK JK 2.5 Max Travel System you can add upper ca's or rear track bar later and with any RK 2.5 lift 35" tires are no prob.

http://www.rockkrawler.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RKJK25MT

sj
Is there a whistling smile icon on here? Because that's what I just did :)
That SJ, looks very very interesting. Thank you.
 
#20 ·
RK Has some real nice kits there control arms are beef. I loved there kit in my JKUR we have a local trail and the road in is real rough with the progressive rate springs it sailed over with speed 4 people loaded winch bumper heavy tire carrier on 37s . I traded that jeep in on a 2dr and building it up. Would I run RK again the control arms absolutely. I didn't like there track bars I would run jks track bars and for the coils in a 4 door yes in a 2 door I feel they are to stiff. So I will be piecing a kit together on my new jeep
 
#22 ·
So what would be better,
Rock Krawler 2.5" X Factor or the 3.5" X Factor? They are the same price.
Planning on getting 15" Black Rock Vipers with the 35" GY MTR Kevlars.
Got some really rocky trails here in the Vegas area.
 
#23 ·
Im no expert, BUT from what I have read on this forum, it depends on your budget. With 3.5" of lift, you will need do get new driveshafts soon. Also if you plan on getting flat fenders, then I think you will need 37's to look "awesome" LOL. Good luck with your Jeep though.

I have settled on the 2.5" RK lift but am really deciding on what i really need/want between the flex system or the max travel...
 
#25 ·
You'll need to look at the 2.5 vs 3.5 kits, as some of them are simply taller springs, and others have associated drive-line correction components... You really can have a lot of fun with just some good tires, maybe a bit or armour, and a winch. That said, a 2.5 is the sweet spot as far as street use vs. off-road. If you go 3.5 or 4.5, you are really setting yourself up to get 37+ tires... which aren't much fun on the pavement...

2.5 and 35's is nice.
 
#27 ·
Hey everyone. Sorry for the extremely overly delayed response. Work became extremely busy and then there was the possibility of getting deployed again. But things have finally calmed down again. My Poison Spider rock sliders have arrived and I am currently waiting for my Rock Crawler 2.5 in lift to arrive :D
I'm now looking into, and reading about, bumpers and I am strongly leaning toward the SRC, or the XRC, Smitty bumpers (front and rear). But now I have a new concern that I didn't even know about. The weight of the bumpers!
Does anyone know if these bumpers will severely drag my future new lift down to pointless? Any recommendations?
I promise to upload pics as soon as the parts get added :)
And for those of you who live near sac, or if I ever run into while out on a trail, i promise to buy a drink as a sign of my thanks.
 
#29 ·
A lot of the lift kits will give a two door more lift than they advertise. It's been mentioned a few times that a 2.5 kit has pushed almost 4 inches of lift on a two door. If it was me, I would almost want more weight on the bumpers to keep the height a bit lower and risk less damage to the drivetrain - or buy a kit for less height or specifically for a two door.
 
#32 ·
I put the RK 2.5" X-Factor on my JKUR and got almost 3.5" of lift in the front. I have a winch on the stock bumper, ACE Rock Rails, EVO Skid System. So as far as sag goes, I think you'll be good to hook.
 
#34 ·
The only issues that i had were the sway bar links being to short so i had to buy longer ones and the brake lines were a little to short. I have a little travel, but not alot if u know what i mean. Other than that, i have had good luck with this 2 1/2" lift from pro comp. They said nothing else was required with this lift, but atleast it wasn't major. Just cheap fixes
 
#36 ·
Well I went with the RK 3.5 X Factor. I'm loving it and the look. C gussets, LCA Skids, and track bar bracket were all welded on last weekend. My friends and I did the install in my garage. Procal was delivered yesterday.
Happy happy happy

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