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Old 07-15-2019, 10:30 AM
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List of things needed to wheel 35's?

Since I need new tires (and perhaps new wheels to upgrade my brakes) I am thinking about going from 33's to 35's. I'm trying to come up with a list of all of the considerations. My Jeep is wheeled, and this is for a return trip to Moab this fall.

Needs:

1) Rims with the appropriate backspace or wheel spacers
2) Appropriate lift (2.5"?)
3) Reinforced tire carrier
4) Relocated 3rd brake light
5) Spare tire bump stop extensions
6) Recalibrate speedo

Not needed but can be nice:

1) Regear (especially if not already running 4.10s)
2) Different rear bumper (could go with spare tire carrier on bumper and avoid tailgate reinforcement)
3) Upgraded brakes
4) Axle gussets

Assumptions;

1) If wheeled/bounced around off road something needs to be done to upgrade the way the spare is carried
2) The 3rd brake light will be obscured by most 35s
3) The 35 will work with stock rear bumper but may rub

Does this sound right, and did I forget anything?

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Old 07-15-2019, 10:58 AM   #2
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Old 07-15-2019, 11:20 AM   #3
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I would probably added gussets to the list
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Old 07-15-2019, 11:33 AM   #4
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It sounds like you have a good understanding of what you need to run 35's.
Personally, to me gearing is not optional but required. But if you have 4.10 gears you may feel it is an option. Anything less and I consider it required. But that is up to you.
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Old 07-15-2019, 11:36 AM
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phxchargerfan and GuzziMoto, your suggestions have been added to the list (THANKS!)
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Old 07-15-2019, 11:40 AM   #6
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"Appropriate lift (2.5"?)" is vague. If it comes with longer shocks, I'd make sure it comes with things like sway bar links, new brake lines or brackets, and adjustable control arms. I also had to make a spacer bracket for my parking brake cables (they were short at full droop). You may also need axle breather hose extensions for both axles (again, depending on the extended shock length).
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Old 07-15-2019, 11:43 AM
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"Appropriate lift (2.5"?)" is vague. If it comes with longer shocks, I'd make sure it comes with things like sway bar links, new brake lines or brackets, and adjustable control arms. I also had to make a spacer bracket for my parking brake cables (they were short at full droop). You may also need axle breather hose extensions for both axles (again, depending on the extended shock length).
Thanks. I left the lift thing vague because that is almost another topic (when you start talking bumps stops, exact shock lengths, etc.).
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Old 07-15-2019, 11:57 AM   #8
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Iím going from just under 34ís to 35ís and am going to gusset my Cís and have a set of Rare Parts ball joints that Iím going to install before going to 35ís. Also going to 4.88ís before the new tires too.

Iím sure the new ball joints might be overkill for 35ís, but since Iím removing the old ones for doing the C gussets, might as well go big!
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Old 07-16-2019, 09:07 AM   #9
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A decent and complete 2.5" lift will accommodate 35's. You'll want one that comes with bump stop extensions so you don't rub the tires too much when flexed.

One thing to consider is using flat fenders. They give you more room for bigger tires without having to lift. Or, at least not having to lift as much.

I would say that if you're going to wheel tough trails on 35's, you will want to reinforce the front axle, especially if it's a Dana 30. A weld on truss and C-gussets at a minimum will greatly extend the life of your front axle.
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Old 07-16-2019, 09:45 AM
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So I found my window sticker--I have the optional 4.10s. So the advice to try the 35s before regearing makes sense. There is also a fairly wide variation in quoted diameter, as well as actual measured diameter, within the 35" tire family. So one option is to pick something slightly smaller and lighter than average.

I need to check--I do not know where I've a 30 or a 44 in the front. I think it is a 30, but does anyone here know what he 2015 Rubis came with?
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Old 07-16-2019, 10:18 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by 64Chevy View Post
So I found my window sticker--I have the optional 4.10s. So the advice to try the 35s before regearing makes sense. There is also a fairly wide variation in quoted diameter, as well as actual measured diameter, within the 35" tire family. So one option is to pick something slightly smaller and lighter than average.

I need to check--I do not know where I've a 30 or a 44 in the front. I think it is a 30, but does anyone here know what he 2015 Rubis came with?
Rubicon JKs should have a 44 in front.
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Old 07-16-2019, 10:18 AM   #12
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ifaik ALL Rubicons are D44 front and rear.

I'm following this closely, as I have a 2.5" TeraFlex lift w/all 8 TF Sport Control Arms, and I just installed Kenda 35x10.50R17 tires. I too have a Rubicon (10A) w/6spd & 4.10 gears. I've only driven locally on my tires thus far, but they are smaller and lighter than most of the 35s due to the 10.50 width. I don't think the 'hit' is too bad.

I'm checking on getting sleeves and gussets for the Cs before I start hard wheeling.
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Old 07-16-2019, 10:22 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by 64Chevy View Post
So I found my window sticker--I have the optional 4.10s. So the advice to try the 35s before regearing makes sense. There is also a fairly wide variation in quoted diameter, as well as actual measured diameter, within the 35" tire family. So one option is to pick something slightly smaller and lighter than average.

I need to check--I do not know where I've a 30 or a 44 in the front. I think it is a 30, but does anyone here know what he 2015 Rubis came with?
I'm pretty sure Rubicons come standard with Dana 44's front and rear, but I'm not 100%

I just finished (finally) getting up to 35's- and here's what I did-

2.5" Lift (JSPEC by JKS Kit)
-Springs, shocks, front track bar, front control arm relocation bracket, rear track bar relocation bracket, sway bar quick disconnects

Reinforced spare tire carrier w/3rd brake light relocation bracket

Regear is coming next, along with new control arms.
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Old 07-16-2019, 10:43 AM   #14
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Rubicons indeed all have 44's in the front from the factory. Also, stick with a 2.5" lift, do not consider 3.5" with 35's. Not needed and IMO, looks funny.
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Old 07-16-2019, 11:01 AM   #15
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There is also a fairly wide variation in quoted diameter, as well as actual measured diameter, within the 35" tire family. So one option is to pick something slightly smaller and lighter than average.
There's actually not nearly as much variation as one would be led to believe by all the "my tires run small" threads. The average 35 has a 34.8" diameter (with the vast majority very close to that), and a 33.7" weighted rolling diameter (again, with the vast majority +/- .1" from that). If you want something that runs small, the BFG KO2 and KM3s would fit the bill (at 34.5 diameter and 33.5 WRD), as would a few others that are of similar size. The other option is to select a 315/70, as they average about what a smallish 35 does (34.5/33.4).

Personally, I wouldn't worry about the size, and just run the tire you want, but it's your call. When I did exactly what you are doing, I picked the 35 MTRs because I like them, and they are true to size at 34.8/33.7.

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Old 07-16-2019, 03:18 PM   #16
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my rear brake like is not obscured with 315 on the spare carrier.. i do have a re-inforced tailgate and hinges however.. but but the brake light is fine.
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Old 07-16-2019, 03:38 PM   #17
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my rear brake like is not obscured with 315 on the spare carrier.. i do have a re-inforced tailgate and hinges however.. but but the brake light is fine.
Did you do anything to raise the spare, or did it fit fine within the 'scallop' of the rear bumper?
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Old 07-17-2019, 11:48 PM   #18
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I am running a 35" tire for the past 7 years, and 5 of them being on stock D30 and 3.73 gears. Running now a PR44 and 5.13. I run them hard off road, at fast speeds and no mercy. So some points from my experience:

- The stock carrier is just fine for a 35". But make sure it is supported by rubber extended bump stops, and the bottom of the tire rests a bit on the bumper.

- No need to raise or relocate the 3rd brake light if your spare is in stock position.

- 3.8L, auto, and 3.73 gears... regearing is NOT required. Turn off overdrive. I live in Vancouver, BC where there are lots of hills and mountains.

- You will need to cut your stock fenders if you want to flex with minimal bump stop (about ~2")

- Expect gas mileage to drop some
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Old 07-18-2019, 05:00 AM   #19
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Not all 35s will fit without raising the mount.

My 35s did not.

For sure the rubber bump stops need to be in place. There are many options out there to extend them if necessary. Tire weight also varies greatly and is just as important as size.
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:11 AM   #20
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Did you do anything to raise the spare, or did it fit fine within the 'scallop' of the rear bumper?

its fit with stock bumper.. i swapped out my bumper a few weeks after the tire install


i would def. get the reinforcement hinges and tailgate bracket if your gonna offroad..



basically all i did to get the 315s was:


-TF 2.5" susp lift

-new TB, probably didnt need to do that...

-wifi dongle obd + JSCAN (to set the new gear ratio)

-upgrade gears (3.73 to 4.56)

-new wheels
-tailgate reinforcement + HD tailgate hinges

-alignment



if you run stock wheels, just get wheel spacers
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Old 07-18-2019, 12:40 PM   #21
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On a budget:

Put the spare in the cargo area. You could just leave the carrier in place, then you'd need to do nothing for the CHMSL (center high mounted stop light). Or buy or build a carrier eliminator. I plan to someday get the lic plate hole filler and move the real plate to the center. It has a Wal Mart trailer light for the CHMSL.
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Old 07-18-2019, 01:51 PM   #22
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You have a good start on your list. I would add the following items to that list.

"HD" front track bar. In your similar lift thread you listed adjustable front/rear track bars. A replacement rear TB is not needed at all. A rear relocation bracket is actually a better solution and the factory rear TB will be fine. Get an axle side rear relocation bracket. You need a HD TB for the front due to the additional weight of the 35s and the fact your front tires do the steering. The adjustability part of the TB just fixes the axle from being off centered due to lifting. The HD properties of the TB addresses the added weight of the tires.

On the same/similar note, add a HD tie-rod and drag link. Again these items are not suppose to flex and that's what the additional weight of the larger tires do, it causes them to flex which translates to loose non firm/responsive steering.

HD ball joints. The factory ones will wear out fast due to the extra load of the tire on them as well as due to the tires being pushed out further due to the reduced backspacing.

I would also consider a BBK as a must have and not really a nice to have. The JK brakes are crap with stock tires, add that extra weight of those tires, bumpers, and all the other items on your list and you really start to feel just how undersized those factory brakes are for a vehicle of this weight, especially with the extra mod weight.

When you get the HD tie rod, you're also going to need a replacement steering stabilizer mounting bracket due to the larger diameter of the tie rod.
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Old 07-18-2019, 03:30 PM   #23
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Rubicons indeed all have 44's in the front from the factory. Also, stick with a 2.5" lift, do not consider 3.5" with 35's. Not needed and IMO, looks funny.
Not really, maybe with flat fenders.
One of the reason I chose 3.5" is that I could run 37" later on, but to me looks fine with 35's and 3.5"
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:27 PM   #24
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Mopar 2in lift with 35s. Plenty of lift and clearance for my factory fenders and just looks right to me.



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Old 07-18-2019, 10:09 PM   #25
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my rear brake like is not obscured with 315 on the spare carrier.. i do have a re-inforced tailgate and hinges however.. but but the brake light is fine.
I have some doubts here but a picture is worth a 1000 words as they say. This is the day I drove my JK back from the tire shop after mounting 315/70/R17s.


This is a BFG KO2 315/70/R17 mounted on my stock carrier. BFGs tend to run small. There were 2 problems. The 1st one was that wheel was pressed up against my stock brake light bracket and left minimal lug threads to actually mount the spare. If you mounted a 35 on a stock wheel, then that problem becomes even worse (6in vs 4.5in wheel back spacing). I had to add an extension adapter on mine to mount the tire on the stock carrier. That's the reason it is pushed back further, the adapter pushed the tire back 4-5inches further from the door.

Unsure how anyone can say the brake light clearance is fine. It was clearly not in my case.

1 month later and that got replaced with the proper solution of adding the Teraflex HD hinge, carrier and brake light extension bracket.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Vitamin B View Post

- The stock carrier is just fine for a 35". But make sure it is supported by rubber extended bump stops, and the bottom of the tire rests a bit on the bumper.
The support by rubber is definitely needed. I would have had to remove my stock rubber bumpers and replaced them with something shorter due to the 4.5in back spacing of the wheels to be able to mount the 35 on the stock carrier but how do you ensure the bottom rests on the bumper with a stock carrier when the stock carrier can not be adjusted vertically and the height of your bumper can't be adjusted as well?
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:26 PM   #26
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Not really, maybe with flat fenders.
One of the reason I chose 3.5" is that I could run 37" later on, but to me looks fine with 35's and 3.5"
Yes, meant to include flatties.
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:12 AM   #27
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On a budget:

Put the spare in the cargo area. You could just leave the carrier in place, then you'd need to do nothing for the CHMSL (center high mounted stop light). Or buy or build a carrier eliminator. I plan to someday get the lic plate hole filler and move the real plate to the center. It has a Wal Mart trailer light for the CHMSL.


I canít tell from your photo, but it looks like you donít have a CHMSL at all (?). Keep in mind most regulations require this light to be mounted HIGHER than the brake lights. Putting it in the center of your tailgate will not comply...(if that matters in your State)


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Old 07-19-2019, 08:23 AM   #28
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Rubicons indeed all have 44's in the front from the factory. Also, stick with a 2.5" lift, do not consider 3.5" with 35's if you're going to run flat fenders. Not needed and IMO, looks funny.
**edited to include flat fenders

This pic is a clear example of why I think it looks funny and if you're not going to run 37's, there's just no NEED to run a 3.5" lift.
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