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Old 06-05-2013, 11:23 AM
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LR turn signal bulb random functionality

Sorry for being long winded but here is what's happening:

An error message appeared on EVIC - left rear turn signal bulb out.
Right blinker flashes fine
Right brake light no problem
Right tail light no problem
Left front front turn signal & in cab indicator flashing twice as fast
Left rear blinker not flashing
Left rear brake light out
Left rear tail light out
BRAKE CONTROLLER at 1/2 voltage

This goes on for a couple of days then the light comes back on & the code clears. It works fine for a while then goes out again - apparently at random intervals. No correlation between having the lights on / off, trailer hooked up or not. No correlation with the brake controller plugged in or not. All of my electrical & mechanical mods have been in place for over a month so I rule that out. Besides, all are on a completely separate circuit so I see no relationship.

The issue just started after a wheeling trip in San Ysidro with some minor crawling & a pretty bad washboard road.

My first thought is that this is appearing to be a bad ground but I just want to see if anyone has had this issue since I am not sure of the power path (through the computer?) & if it is grounded (through the computer?) to the chassis in the near vicinity.

Were this my old ford, I would think flasher but I doubt there is an actual flasher to replace on the JKU. I would also think about just grounding the bulb assembly to the chassis with a splice but, that would not (I think) address the error code. Anyone with the Blinker Mod have this issue? My connections look fine.

I am not looking forward to removing my mods before taking it to the dealer but that is the next course of action. I do not believe they are affecting the flasher circuit but do not want to have the conversation with the dealer

Thoughts?

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2016 JKU Rhino Rubicon Stick, 3.5" Metalcloak GC Lift, Flipped Aluminum RPMFAB Draglink & Tierod, Rancho SS & 9000XL shocks, Metalcloak Full Width Front Bumper, 12K Winch, Factor 55 Pro, Atlas Rear Bumper, 510 Watts of KC Lights, Drake Fuel Door, Poison Spyder Diff Covers, Rock Hard Oil pan skid, 315/70/17 Duratracs on 17x9 Warlords.
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:13 PM   #2
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Remove the left rear tail light assembly and examine the harness connections.

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Old 06-05-2013, 01:43 PM
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Before it came back on, I switched bulbs from left to right to verify the element was good or bad.

It was not the bulb.

The lines into / out of the bulb are encased in plastic so no looking at the connection between the harness and connector.

When I swapped the bulbs, everything looked / felt tight. The pins were not bent or corroded.

Pulling the trailer connections and using a multimeter at the tee (not a splice but a tee so the fitting was still on the main wires) I came up with 0.5 volts on the left & 12.x on the right so it's getting some juice but not enough.

I have to fight the redneck impulse to just run another wire like I did on my F250 (which solved a similar problem long ago).
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2016 JKU Rhino Rubicon Stick, 3.5" Metalcloak GC Lift, Flipped Aluminum RPMFAB Draglink & Tierod, Rancho SS & 9000XL shocks, Metalcloak Full Width Front Bumper, 12K Winch, Factor 55 Pro, Atlas Rear Bumper, 510 Watts of KC Lights, Drake Fuel Door, Poison Spyder Diff Covers, Rock Hard Oil pan skid, 315/70/17 Duratracs on 17x9 Warlords.
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Old 06-05-2013, 05:32 PM   #4
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I see that you switched the bulbs from left to right, is it still doing the same on the left side now ? The cheapest way out of this problem is to replace both of the rear 3157 bulbs. It is usually a intermittent problem with the bulb filament coming loose and reattaching to the spring assembly of the bulb element. Just had this problem about 2 weeks ago, nothing since.
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tagg View Post
I see that you switched the bulbs from left to right, is it still doing the same on the left side now ? The cheapest way out of this problem is to replace both of the rear 3157 bulbs. It is usually a intermittent problem with the bulb filament coming loose and reattaching to the spring assembly of the bulb element. Just had this problem about 2 weeks ago, nothing since.
Yeah, did that, no dice. That would have been too easy.

I removed all my electrical related mods last weekend, including the aftermarket light connections, & nothing changed.

So last night it started doing the same thing on the passenger side, Sometimes it works, sometimes it does not.

Last night - no brake lights

The center light was removed when I put on the bumper / tire carrier assembly.

I just dropped it off at the dealer & the service manager was thinking TIPM.

We'll see.
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2012 Black Forest Green JKU Sahara - Used to love her, had to trade her.
2016 JKU Rhino Rubicon Stick, 3.5" Metalcloak GC Lift, Flipped Aluminum RPMFAB Draglink & Tierod, Rancho SS & 9000XL shocks, Metalcloak Full Width Front Bumper, 12K Winch, Factor 55 Pro, Atlas Rear Bumper, 510 Watts of KC Lights, Drake Fuel Door, Poison Spyder Diff Covers, Rock Hard Oil pan skid, 315/70/17 Duratracs on 17x9 Warlords.
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