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Old 10-12-2018, 07:29 AM
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No heat drivers vent but normal heat passenger vent???

HELP!!!!!!
2012 Jeep JKU 45040 miles. Driver side vent blowing strong cold air and passenger side blowing strong hot air in the heat mode.

After numerous searches on forums and websites...I see casting sand from manufacture of head or block left in system. Dealership and Warranty system are claiming stop leak is the gunk in system causing blocked heater core and radiator.. Chrysler or extend warranty won’t cover repairs.

Taking 2012 Jeep to another mechanic shop to actuallly start tearing into system for replacements parts.

If mechanic truly find sand type material instead of stop leak...what are my options with Chrysler? I don’t have any faith with my extend warranty..

Note: Only put 1200 miles since purchased used. Actual miles now is 45040

Wasn’t expecting a $3000 hit from something that’s a known problem..

Thanks

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Old 10-12-2018, 07:39 AM   #2
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Sounds like the heater core is plugged, but the question is: With what? Casting sand is a possibility, but theres another thread here that points out the use of stop-leak tabs being used by the factory. In my case, I had sludge in the bottom of my coolant reservoir, and it sure looked like the color of those tabs.

After a few years (mines a 2015 (bought new), and I took it in to multiple dealers multiple times over 3 years), it was finally replaced under warranty. I pointed out the sludge, and brought them temp readings from all of the dash vents, also showing the engine temp from the EVIC and temp dial setting to support/quantify my observations. Not sure if that helped, but it couldnt hurt to get actual data. Easy enough to do with a digital kitchen thermometer.

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Old 10-12-2018, 07:49 AM   #3
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Dealership and Warranty system are claiming stop leak is the gunk in system causing blocked heater core and radiator.. Chrysler or extend warranty won't cover repairs.
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Originally Posted by rogheil1971 View Post

Note: Only put 1200 miles since purchased used. Actual miles now is 45040

Wasn't expecting a $3000 hit from something that's a known problem..

What type of warranty did you get when you bought it used? A 2012 is long out of the basic warranty, and the powertrain warranty (which ended in 2017) doesn't cover heater cores.

Since you knew this was a problem, did you check for it before buying?
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Old 10-12-2018, 12:38 PM   #4
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I had a similar problem with our 2013 JK. The driver side vent was blowing 40*F cooler air than the passenger side in heat mode. Dealer determined the heater core and various other parts needed to be replaced. Total cost was around $2,500 but all I had to pay was a $100 ded. with my MaxCare lifetime warranty.
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Old 10-12-2018, 01:20 PM   #5
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I had a similar problem with our 2013 JK. The driver side vent was blowing 40*F cooler air than the passenger side in heat mode. Dealer determined the heater core and various other parts needed to be replaced. Total cost was around $2,500 but all I had to pay was a $100 ded. with my MaxCare lifetime warranty.
2013 JK same under warranty this year. They said something about sludge\leakage
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Old 10-12-2018, 01:24 PM   #6
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This is a known problem and I believe there is a class action lawsuit. Call Chrysler's customer service
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Old 10-12-2018, 01:29 PM   #7
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Why would one side blow heat and the other side blow cold if the heater core was blocked?
The JK doesn't have two heater cores, does it?
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Old 10-12-2018, 01:57 PM   #8
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This is a known problem and I believe there is a class action lawsuit. Call Chrysler's customer service

While the OP could try that, from my past experience, once its entered into the system that the "Dealership and Warranty system are claiming stop leak is the gunk in system causing blocked heater core and radiator.", its difficult to change it. The voice at Chrysler Customer Service would simply recite that official determination right back.

Since the OP bought it used, they can't honestly say that Stop Leak wasn't ever added.
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Old 10-12-2018, 02:04 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by RoadiJeff View Post
I had a similar problem with our 2013 JK. The driver side vent was blowing 40*F cooler air than the passenger side in heat mode. Dealer determined the heater core and various other parts needed to be replaced. Total cost was around $2,500 but all I had to pay was a $100 ded. with my MaxCare lifetime warranty.
Ugh, this is what I was afraid of. Been dealing with the no heat on driver's side for a while now (passenger side is hot). Thinking I might try to resolve this before winter but I'm well out of warranty. I was going to try a couple other things first like the mechanical lever for the blend door or try burping any air out of the cooling system, maybe just flush the heater core, I don't know.

So is it the definite consensus that if your heat is working on the passenger side but not the driver side then it HAS to be a clogged heater core that must be replaced? I might just buy a snow suit than pay $2500 to get my heat back. Or even a small heater that I can plug into the cigarette lighter.
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Old 10-12-2018, 02:25 PM   #10
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I was going to try a couple other things first like the mechanical lever for the blend door or try burping any air out of the cooling system, maybe just flush the heater core, I don't know.
In my younger, more adventurous, days, I would try disconnecting the heater hoses, and reverse flush the heater core with the garden hose. If toxic carcinogens blasted out all over me in the process, I was too nave to care.
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Old 10-12-2018, 02:44 PM   #11
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This is a known problem and I believe there is a class action lawsuit. Call Chrysler's customer service

While the OP could try that, from my past experience, once its entered into the system that the "Dealership and Warranty system are claiming stop leak is the gunk in system causing blocked heater core and radiator.", its difficult to change it. The voice at Chrysler Customer Service would simply recite that official determination right back.

Since the OP bought it used, they can't honestly say that Stop Leak wasn't ever added.
I would play the "this is my 1st jeep...yada yada yada" card to CS
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Old 10-12-2018, 05:58 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by rogheil1971 View Post
HELP!!!!!!
2012 Jeep JKU 45040 miles. Driver side vent blowing strong cold air and passenger side blowing strong hot air in the heat mode.

After numerous searches on forums and websites...I see casting sand from manufacture of head or block left in system. Dealership and Warranty system are claiming stop leak is the gunk in system causing blocked heater core and radiator.. Chrysler or extend warranty won€™t cover repairs.

Taking 2012 Jeep to another mechanic shop to actuallly start tearing into system for replacements parts.

If mechanic truly find sand type material instead of stop leak...what are my options with Chrysler? I don€™t have any faith with my extend warranty..

Note: Only put 1200 miles since purchased used. Actual miles now is 45040

Wasn€™t expecting a $3000 hit from something that€™s a known problem..

Thanks
My 2013 was doing that and it was a simple fix to replace the actuator that moves the blend doors...

Look at that first...

And stop leak only coagulates if and when it's exposed to air for many hours... its suspended in the coolant when it circulates and then settles on the bottom of the remote reservoir until you start the engine and move the fluid.

If it's the stop leak that plugged up your heater core, you would've had to have an air pocket in there, in the same place, for a very long time - longer than you've owned it.

.
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Old 10-12-2018, 07:50 PM   #13
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Why would one side blow heat and the other side blow cold if the heater core was blocked?
The JK doesn't have two heater cores, does it?
Because of the way air flows through the core and into the ducts, air to the driver's side vent flows through the driver's side of the core and the air to the passenger side flows through the passenger side of the core.

And... since the inlet and outlet of the core are on the passenger side, the passages in the core on the driver's side are subject to slower coolant flow than those on the passenger side. This can result in any impurities in the coolant (or any coagulation of the coolant) accumulating on the driver's side of the core, eventually restricting coolant flow on that side of the core, therefore reducing heat out of the driver's side vent.

I had this problem on my '13. I used a radiator cleaner solution in the core, then once it had time to work I reverse flushed the core with pressure from my garden hose.

I made up these adapters that the garden hose could connect to, one for input from the tap and the other to drain the output. The copper tubing in the other ends is the correct size to fit into the hoses in the engine compartment coming off the heater core.



Here's the flush operation in progress. The green hose connects the disconnected ends of the aluminum tubes so that coolant doesn't leak out of those tubes when they're disconnected.



The process worked very well and restored full heat to the driver's side.
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Old 10-13-2018, 09:31 AM   #14
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My 2013 was doing that and it was a simple fix to replace the actuator that moves the blend doors....
Before you fixed the actuator, can you recall if you had good heat on the passenger side or was there no heat throughout all the vents?
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Old 10-13-2018, 09:42 AM   #15
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Because of the way air flows through the core and into the ducts, air to the driver's side vent flows through the driver's side of the core and the air to the passenger side flows through the passenger side of the core.

And... since the inlet and outlet of the core are on the passenger side, the passages in the core on the driver's side are subject to slower coolant flow than those on the passenger side. This can result in any impurities in the coolant (or any coagulation of the coolant) accumulating on the driver's side of the core, eventually restricting coolant flow on that side of the core, therefore reducing heat out of the driver's side vent.

I had this problem on my '13. I used a radiator cleaner solution in the core, then once it had time to work I reverse flushed the core with pressure from my garden hose.

I made up these adapters that the garden hose could connect to, one for input from the tap and the other to drain the output. The copper tubing in the other ends is the correct size to fit into the hoses in the engine compartment coming off the heater core.



Here's the flush operation in progress. The green hose connects the disconnected ends of the aluminum tubes so that coolant doesn't leak out of those tubes when they're disconnected.



The process worked very well and restored full heat to the driver's side.
Did the same process with my 2013 with the same problem as described. Found sludge in my reservoir, did full radiator cleanse and replaced coolant. Flush revealed a radiator leak as well, so that was replaced. Full heat restored. Good luck!
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Old 10-13-2018, 09:54 AM   #16
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Before you fixed the actuator, can you recall if you had good heat on the passenger side or was there no heat throughout all the vents?
Yes, the heat was working on the passenger side and stopped working on the driver side. I freaked out too, thinking it was the heater core. Mine was repaired under warranty, I was surprised the actuator went out so early, but was glad that was the issue.

When they replace the heater core, they tear your entire dash out - I would avoid that at all costs unless it was actually leaking. If it’s not the actuator, I would flush the heater core using the DIY method above.

There was many threads on this in 2013 due to several issues.

- Casting sand in the system
- Stop leak in the system
- HOAT to OAT coolant conversion (mixing together)
- Air in system from the factory (waterfall effect)

All the above can lead to heater core issues.. many were misdiagnosed.

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Old 10-13-2018, 10:01 AM   #17
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Heat ???

HELLO... Let's all apply logic.. If the passenger side vents blow HOT and the Driver side do not.. Then the Heater Core should not be Clogged !!! The heater core does not have sides for each.. Look at the Actuators that move the doors in the HVAC Box.
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Old 10-14-2018, 03:22 AM   #18
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HELLO... Let's all apply logic.. If the passenger side vents blow HOT and the Driver side do not.. Then the Heater Core should not be Clogged !!! The heater core does not have sides for each.. Look at the Actuators that move the doors in the HVAC Box.

Mine had decent heat on the passenger side and did not on the driver side. They replaced the heater core and radiator under the lifetime warranty. They did not do anything with the actuator doors. The heat works equally fine now on both sides.
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Old 10-14-2018, 07:55 AM   #19
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Driver side vent blowing strong cold air and passenger side blowing strong hot air in the heat mode.
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Originally Posted by Jay2011JK View Post
HELLO... Let's all apply logic.. If the passenger side vents blow HOT and the Driver side do not.. Then the Heater Core should not be Clogged !!! The heater core does not have sides for each.. Look at the Actuators that move the doors in the HVAC Box.
To me, what fails with that logic, is one stated fact that the driver's side was still blowing strong. Strong but cold. If the air flow was weak or non-existent, then I would agree with your 'try first' of an actuator.


Your reasoning kind-of says that the temp of each side was capable of independent control, and I don't think that's part of the JK HVAC design by Jeep.


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Old 10-14-2018, 08:36 AM   #20
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I had the exact same issue back in 2014-2015. I was tired of shivering while driving and decided to change the heater core myself before last winter. Found this video:
. Blows like a furnace on both sides ever since.



If you do decide to go this route, be extra careful when installing the new heater core as they can get damaged very easily.
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Old 10-14-2018, 09:04 AM   #21
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I had the exact same issue back in 2014-2015. I was tired of shivering while driving and decided to change the heater core myself before last winter. Found this video: this video. Blows like a furnace on both sides ever since.



If you do decide to go this route, be extra careful when installing the new heater core as they can get damaged very easily.
So did you cut your lower dash frame as shown in the video? If yes, upon reinstallation, were there any dash rattles? Is the dash cover secure with the lower frame being cut?

It appears if the core is leaking, this is the way to go without tearing the entire dash out. However if its not leaking and simply needs a flush, then the DIY flush method above seems more appropriate to fix a clogged up core.. not replace the entire unit like many Jeep techs have done.

I wonder how many Jeep techs simply take the long route because the repair manual says to replace the core as opposed to flush the core?

Good info... thanks for posting.

.
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Old 10-14-2018, 09:23 AM   #22
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So did you cut your lower dash frame as shown in the video? If yes, upon reinstallation, were there any dash rattles? Is the dash cover secure with the lower frame being cut?

It appears if the core is leaking, this is the way to go without tearing the entire dash out. However if its not leaking and simply needs a flush, then the DIY flush method above seems more appropriate to fix a clogged up core.. not replace the entire unit like many Jeep techs have done.

I wonder how many Jeep techs simply take the long route because the repair manual says to replace the core as opposed to flush the core?

Good info... thanks for posting.

.

I tried flushing the core and it did bring back a little warmer heat for about a month or so. No real visible sludge came out into my drain bucket. NE Ohio winters can be brutal so this didn't pass my standards.



I did make 3 cuts to the bracket shown in the video ensuring I could re-secure at least two of the three cuts to avoid rattles. I have no rattles but I do have a slight crease in the plastic below the glove box from pulling the panel back but that's something I can live with. Saved me $1500.



When you are cutting the pipes on the new core I can't stress enough be very surgical and don't stress the joints. They are easy to crack and it will leak.
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Old 10-14-2018, 10:42 AM   #23
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I've seen this method used and I assure you the guy in the video removed much more of the dash than necessary. If you cut the framework in the right places, it's a simple step to weld it all back together.
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Old 10-14-2018, 10:52 AM   #24
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it is just starting to get cold in my area. Hopefully, my heater isn't defective. Only one way to find out
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Old 11-08-2018, 11:24 AM   #25
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This is year 2 of the same issue, last year we replaced the heater core. Which was spendy. I just found this thread about the reverse flush. My question is did any of you peeps call and report it to chrysler? My dealership looked at me like I was crazy when I mentioned the issue. There isn’t a recall but reporting it may help actually getting a fix/recall somewhere down the road. Mine was way out of warranty, so it’s costing me out of pocket right now. I reported at mine 1-800-247-9753.
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Old 11-08-2018, 12:00 PM   #26
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This is year 2 of the same issue, last year we replaced the heater core. Which was spendy. I just found this thread about the reverse flush. My question is did any of you peeps call and report it to chrysler? My dealership looked at me like I was crazy when I mentioned the issue. There isnt a recall but reporting it may help actually getting a fix/recall somewhere down the road. Mine was way out of warranty, so its costing me out of pocket right now. I reported at mine 1-800-247-9753.
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