My sway bar light on my 2010 JKUR has been flashing for about 2 months now and I could tell by the way it's been handling that the sway bar wasn't connected. After reading a ton about possible issues I finally had the change to take off my sway bar last night and open it up. I REALLY don't understand how Jeep thinks not only that is this a good design, but that this happening doesn't create a major safety issue. I'm hoping I can get it all cleaned out, put back together and get it working again but judging by the burn marks on the SmartBar connector it's probably beyond repair.

Currie Antirock.


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Yeeeeaaahhhh.....I'm not dropping an extra $600-$700 on a new swaybar because Jeep can't design one that isn't a POS. I've already "upgraded" when I bought a Rubicon, why should I have to "upgrage" again? I'll probably go with the Evo mechanical solution.

It’s the price to be paid for the convenience of not getting out to manually disconnect. Nothing comes for free, time to pay the piper.

Your rig is 10 years old and subject to mechanical failures. As a 26 year Jeep owner I can tell you from experience there will be many more mechanical issues.

As the owner of a 33 year old Jeep, I know exactly what you mean. And don't get me started on how you can't find replacements any more.


To the OP: I installed a Rubicon swaybar on my Sport and used this manual disconnect in it: https://jksmfg.com/i-11646284-electr...k-rubicon.html

I have to get out to disconnect and reconnect but all I have to do is reach in to the wheel well, pull and twist the handle and I'm disconnected. Works great all the time every time.

There are other manual disconnect systems but you have to get your hands on the disconnect mechanism directly and a lot of times that means getting down on the ground or fumbling around reaching under a dirty Jeep.


I would always advise against a Currie AntiRock. Currie designed that for the buggies that had too much articulation. They were a way to tune your flex to keep you from flopping too easily. But then the marketing team got a hold of it and convinced a lot of people to put them on their street Jeeps. Trouble is, it's the worst of both worlds. It doesn't limit sway nearly enough on the road and it limits articulation off road so you need your lockers more often. If anything, I'd get a stiffer swaybar for on road and then disconnect it completely off road.

So far mine hasn't failed, but I've been considering the Evo manual or even the air actuated solution just to get rid of the Nanny controls built into the software. You should be able to disconnect in any configuration. If they want to flash an idiot light when you are disconnected and above 18mph, that's fine, but you should have control.

This is not the main reason why I didn't buy a Rubicon but it was one of them after seen them fail on friends rigs. Manual sway disconnects are better might get some hate for that but you'll never see that kind of rust or residues around my swaybars.

Couldn’t agree more. The lockers eventually go and the only thing worth it on the rubicon is the transfer case. Literally could do a sport and 1 tons for the same price as a rubicon.


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That's why I wouldn't buy a Rubicon if I planned on "building" a Jeep. A lot of what you pay extra for you end up replacing. In the end, you pay $20k for a sticker and bragging rights. Not worth it.

Don't reconnect the electrical, that'll cause problems. I just went through that.

Either buy some disconnect links or look into EVO's manual or air actuators to refurbish your sway bar.

It makes more sense to buy a rubicon and build on it than a sport. A sport will cost you far more in the long run and you will recoup on the sale of rubicon parts far better and faster than you ever would on sport parts. You can unload a dana 44 font axle with locker in about 10 minutes. On the other hand... good luck selling that dana 30 sport axle.

Ummm... No... you can't

I purchased a Rubicon. Also the Mopar lifetime extended warranty, $100 deductible per visit. And I have never looked back..

Maybe not 1 tons, but I put a trail leader package (with ARBs and JKS discos) on mine with 37's and a synergy lift/drag link flip, etc for less than the Rubicon would have cost me. (Which is why I did it that way) My 4DR sport was $24,000 less than the maxed out Rubi.

So you're comparing a Rubicon with all the extras to a base sport model?



The add-up has been done before on the board. To do up a sport (HONESTLY) to the same degree as a rubicon (including the 4:1 case) costs more..... and you will never be able to sell that sport as a "Rubicon"


Now you can spin it in any way you want, but "them's" the facts.

When I saw the title of this thread, I kind of thought this might be what it was about. I dealt with something similar not that long ago. I have two pieces of advice for you.

First, get back under the jeep, connect the electronic actuator, and try it out. If it moves, you will be fine!. If it doesn't, and you think it's the actuator, not the connectors, PM me. I have one in my basement (untested - I don't have the cables) that you can have for the cost of shipping.

Second, cover your face up for this one - it's about to get messy. Grab your compressor and a spray nozzle if you've got one, or a few cans of compressed air, and go to town. Seriously. I went through the same cleaning process, though I put a pneumatic actuator on mine since I don't actually have a Rubicon, and blowing it out with my compressor was the absolute fastest and most thorough way I found to clean it out. I pulled the few bits and pieces out of there and really went to town, then re-greased the whole thing very liberally.

This is very fixable. It's not cheap to replace the actuator, but my guess is it's not the actuator. That being said, throw some dialectric grease on the electrical connectors when you do reassemble it, and consider using RTV to make a seal around the housing sections.

Well, my sport was not base, it had full doors, automatic, uconnect, power windows, power mirrors, and 17" wheels. I got a good deal on it, I paid just a bit over $30k for it. Here is my build:

Synergy Stage 2 3" front/2" Rear with adjustable control arms, drag link flip, and geometry correction, leveling kit (Short arm) - $2,205
Fox Racing 2.0 Shocks - $560
Nitto Trail Grapplers 37" x 5 - $1,850
ATX Slaps - $1,875
Dynatrack Trail Leader Package - $6,499 (plus $250 shipping)
Adams 1350CV front and rear shafts - $975
MCE Fenders - $753
Shrock Works Front/LoD Rear with Carrier Bumper (midwidth) - $1,945
Genright Steel Sliders - $999


That is ~$17.5k plus labor (which was ~$3k). Even if you get the Rubi for $50k, this is basically same price, and look at what kind of Jeep I have in the end! I can always put a Rubi transfer case in and then there is no advantage to the Rubi. If you are buying to build it, you are better with a Sport.

These are real numbers and I am happy to post up pictures of my rig. These are FACTS not feelings. I don't need a 4:1 transfer case, but I could have value engineered the build to be at least $3k cheaper and still be light years more functional than the Rubi (and a 4:1 transfer case is fairly trivial to add)

First... And there you have it. I said "HONESTLY"


Second.... There is something wrong with your initial pricing too. Out of the starting gate a 2019 ultimate sport is $41,400. A 2019 Ultimate Rubicon is $48500 (Canadian pricing). That's a difference of $7100.
https://www.jeep.ca/en/build-and-pri...activeTab=cash


I have no idea in the world where you're getting this $24,000 difference?!? At any rate there isn't a chance in hell you're going to turn a sport into a Rubicon on $7100



Third.... I bought new 35's plus new wheels for about $2000
I sold my (new at the time with 900 miles) Rubicon wheels in less than 18 hours for $1500. Probably could have held out for more but I wanted to get them out of the back yard. Anyway... the long and short... my new 35 wheels complete was an out of pocket expense of $500. You spent $1350 more than I did on wheels alone.



Once again... it costs you MORE to do up a sport. The ONLY advantage to doing up a sport is that you can do it over time if you're a bit cash strapped.... and even with that, you will never be able to sell it as a "Rubicon".


Turning a sport into a Rubicon may be kind of fun from a hobby stand point, but it is most definitely a losing proposition from a financial pov.

Those prices are all US prices, not Canuckistan prices. These are the actual prices I paid for my JKU and work done by a professional 4x4 shop. JKU Rubi's similarly equipped to my sport were on the lot stickered @$51k when I bought mine. I did the math and made the right decision for me. I also have 35 splines in the back, better axles in the front and I am running 4.88 gearing. The most expensive JKU Rubi on the lot when I bought my sport was $58k. I paid $30k, that means I can spend $20k on upgrades and still be in the Rubi base price arena. I am done with the debate. I KNOW this is right, since I did it and compared all of the prices and the Rubi couldn't make sense. My rig is dramatically stronger than any stock Rubi and I paid about the same dollars for it. (and it looks bad ass)

My 2014 sport cost 27,999 brand new it has
4.56 gears
3" lift
ARB lockers front back
Dana 44 front Tera Flex back Dana 44 OEM

At the time they wanted 49,999 for a Rubicon
I did all the work myself except for the regearing and
lockers install. I have no regrets even today I wouldn't buy
a Rubicon over a Sport I can build how I want not with
soccer mom restraints on the lockers and such and with
the gearing I do not want. So I have to disagree also.

The only thing a Rubicon has over my Sport is the name
and the crappy sway bars, imho not worth it.

What part of the word "honest" are you not getting?


Okay, if you don't like.... "Canuckistan" pricing, we'll do the... "Yankee" pricing:


The base ultimate 2019 sport is.......$31,500 (US)
The base ultimate 2019 Rubicon......$41.500 (US)
That's a difference of.....................$10,000 (US)



There is still no way in hell you are going to (HONESTLY) turn a sport into a Rubicon for $10,000



And no.. your rig is not stronger than a rubi. You don't have a 4:1 case

If you think a stock rubi with 4:1 makes a rig stronger than mine, you are to unintelligent for me to continue this discussion.

No but if I do the work myself I can do 1 ton axles and lockers for half the difference. If you are going to 37’s you are regearing the Rubicon either way.

You are not running 37’s front 44 without gussets and a truss. Also, it is not a true 44.

Rubicons are great out the gate for a decent off-roader we. If you want to build I think a sport is the way to go.

And if you are actually off-roading it you are breaking stuff anyway.

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I see you're looking for a way out of this

I'll let you save your grace... one other thing I should point out though.... You have blown your warranties with all of that modding while the Rubcon warranties would still be good

I give zero sh!ts about the warranty. Your rubi will be high center 100' (that is 33 or so meters) up the first trial I usually start wheeling on as a warm up. You have comparative crap and the "Rubicon" name. Congrats to you on that "win" and your warranty (oh, and the warranty is only voided on components they can prove were negatively impacted by the mods and if I smoke the engine, I will do an LS upgrade) of course you will still have a 4:1, so in your mind it is a stronger rig, eh? Take off eh?

Whaaaaa? But no 4:1 low gear ratio, how will you ever survive?

This is a very interesting Thread. Different opionons are good.

So I will add my 2cents: I go out and purchase a new Rubicon. Let's say hypothetically that I spend $50K. My neighbor purchases a Sport, and invests in modifying, to where he has now the same investment $50K.

Let's just say, we drive the same mileage and keep both of them looking like new for 5 years. Now we are going to trade them each in on a new Wrangler. Which one of us is going to get more of our investment money back? Yep, that says it all..IMO

Now in all fairness, if we never sell them, then the above is a moot point.

It is perfectly fine to disagree - and I definitely disagree. But keep it on topic rather than directing personal comments at other members.

Most people who build plan on keeping it and continuing to wheel it. Any wheeled Jeep in going to be banged up underneath and scratched all up. Now if you are buying for looks and going to keep it in nice shape different story.

So comes down to personal choice and what you intend to do with it. For some the Sport makes more sense for ithers the Rubicon does.

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