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Old 12-25-2019, 02:46 PM
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Rubi front axle with non-rubi rear

First post, lots of great info here. Technically this is for the wife's rig but I want to make sure it's done right. 2016 JKU Sahara auto with 3.21s. Just got new 33s and the 3.21s are proving to be extra annoying. I want to go with either 4.10s or 4.56. Unlikely to go larger than 33" tires but anything is possible.

The question is that let's say I decide on 4.10s. Does it make sense to re-gear the non-rubicon rear axle, and rather than regear the front, just replace it entirely? Ideally with a used, complete assembly with 4.10s. I understand that upgrading from 3.21s requires a new carrier anyway. Do people do this? It's not exactly economical but seems like it would have quite a few advantages. Plus the old axle would have some value to offset the investment, granted not a lot.

Or am I overthinking and would be fine re-gearing existing front axle? I guess it's a D30? How much could one to expect to pay for a new carrier?

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Old 12-25-2019, 03:07 PM   #2
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That is my plan - found a Dana 44 front with 3:73, if I buy it I will get rear regeared with 3:73.

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Old 12-25-2019, 03:14 PM   #3
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Old 12-25-2019, 03:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itotheizzack View Post
First post, lots of great info here. Technically this is for the wife's rig but I want to make sure it's done right. 2016 JKU Sahara auto with 3.21s. Just got new 33s and the 3.21s are proving to be extra annoying. I want to go with either 4.10s or 4.56. Unlikely to go larger than 33" tires but anything is possible.



The question is that let's say I decide on 4.10s. Does it make sense to re-gear the non-rubicon rear axle, and rather than regear the front, just replace it entirely? Ideally with a used, complete assembly with 4.10s. I understand that upgrading from 3.21s requires a new carrier anyway. Do people do this? It's not exactly economical but seems like it would have quite a few advantages. Plus the old axle would have some value to offset the investment, granted not a lot.



Or am I overthinking and would be fine re-gearing existing front axle? I guess it's a D30? How much could one to expect to pay for a new carrier?
Of you find a front d44, you're likely going to find the rear too.

Just swap em both of they have the 4.10s you want.

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Old 12-25-2019, 03:28 PM
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Of you find a front d44, you're likely going to find the rear too.

Just swap em both of they have the 4.10s you want.

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I thought about this but it seems to be a minimum $5k investment. Again I could offset it a bit with the old stuff, but let's say it's net $3k if I'm lucky. I could have just re-geared for $1500. Then the question becomes, are the additional features worth it?
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Old 12-25-2019, 03:28 PM
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To clarify, worth it for 33s?
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Old 12-25-2019, 03:53 PM   #7
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To clarify, worth it for 33s?
While we have a Rubi front D44 with a non-Rubi rar D44, I don't think it is worth it for 33" tires. Just re-gear the axles you have with 4.56 gears and enjoy. We have 37" tires and for that the Rubi front D44 was a good option. I was going to go with an aftermarket axle but the used Rubi D44 came up and was only about $1800. But as you can typically get both axles re-geared for less than the typical cost of a used Rubi D44 I don't think it is worth it for less than 35" tires. And for 35's you could go either way.
It would be nice if you got a screaming deal on the Rubi D44. But then I would be worried why it is so cheap. The one nice thing with a Rubi D44 is the E locker. But you can add lockers or TruTrac LSDs and still be cheaper than the Rubi D44 per axle.
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Old 12-25-2019, 04:36 PM   #8
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Rubi front axle with non-rubi rear

^^^^ Agree with Guzzi. For 33s stick with the D30 and regear to 4.10. I wouldn’t even go as Far as 4.56 .. if you spend any time on the freeway 4.56 is a too low for only 33”. I currently run 4.10 with the 35s and they are good on the freeway. 2200rpm at 60mph.
If you wheel, I would add a heavier front diff cover though to support the housing structure..


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Old 12-29-2019, 01:47 PM   #9
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I'm curious what is annoying about the 3.21s? I'd use lower gears as needed and save the money to buy a Jeep equipped like I want.
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Old 12-29-2019, 03:06 PM
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I'm curious what is annoying about the 3.21s? I'd use lower gears as needed and save the money to buy a Jeep equipped like I want.
Well it seems that the MPG hit is quite a bit worse for one. Going from the 32” stock Duelers to 33” M/Ts has knocked off about 5 mpg. It’s also noticeably more sluggish. It’s my understanding the 3.21 was really geared too tall from the factory (on 32” equipped Sahara models)

In our case it just wouldn’t make sense to start over with a new rig. Between the time invested to sell, depreciation, and finding its replacement, i’m not convinced I would be saving any money vs just putting money into this vehicle. Plus it has extra low miles.
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Old 12-29-2019, 05:50 PM   #11
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Well it seems that the MPG hit is quite a bit worse for one. Going from the 32” stock Duelers to 33” M/Ts has knocked off about 5 mpg. It’s also noticeably more sluggish. It’s my understanding the 3.21 was really geared too tall from the factory (on 32” equipped Sahara models)

In our case it just wouldn’t make sense to start over with a new rig. Between the time invested to sell, depreciation, and finding its replacement, i’m not convinced I would be saving any money vs just putting money into this vehicle. Plus it has extra low miles.
It knocked off 5 mpg?
There's definitely more wrong with that Jeep than 3.21's

I originally went from stockers to 315's and it hardly changed at all.
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Old 12-29-2019, 06:04 PM   #12
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5mph difference is excessive with that small jump in tire size.. I didn’t see that much jumping to 35s. So first off is your speedo recalibrated?

Plenty of guys have run 3.21 with even 35s and not been too concerned. Depends what you want. As for 3.21 gears with the 3.6, it is the equivalent of almost 4.10 gears with the 3.8, so on stock tires any Wrangler with a 3.6 is certainly not under geared.


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Old 12-29-2019, 10:06 PM   #13
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I thought about this but it seems to be a minimum $5k investment. Again I could offset it a bit with the old stuff, but let's say it's net $3k if I'm lucky. I could have just re-geared for $1500. Then the question becomes, are the additional features worth it?
If I were selling my Rubi D44s (and I'm not quite yet) they would be priced more at like $2500 for the set, maybe less like $2k. Front is gusseted too, both upper and lower C's. Then you could still sell your old axles plus rig up the e-lockers and have the knowledge of having Dana factory set up 4.10's in Rubi 44s. Look on craigslist in all the areas around you for a deal like that. Be willing to drive to get them. It may take a little time. I would be very surprised if it was $5k. I don't know your geographic region though. Here in the NE where I am they should not be $5k.

I assume in this that you can swap axle assemblies yourself though here.
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Old 12-29-2019, 10:37 PM
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Speedo is not recalibrated. So the difference in mpgs is not actually 5 like the computer says. But it's still at least 4. I have often wondered if there is sort of a cliff effect with gearing and engine combos. Where the changes are incremental until all of a sudden they aren't.

Either way it's annoying. Not as annoying as running Duelers and getting stuck in the mud (actually happened), so not going to go back, but it seems like it should be dealt with.

Part of my baseline is my DD has been a diesel pickup for a few years. I went to 35's on an LMM Duramax and although fuel economy was effected, perceived power and acceleration didn't seem to be at all. Same with my more recent LBZ, which ironically runs the same exact tire as the JK now.

I went through the same thing on a 2016 Tacoma with the 3.5L. 33's, huge hit in fuel economy, became a lot less fun to drive, but the difference is that gearing was going to be a $5k ordeal, so I ultimately just got rid of the truck. This time around, I am compelled to "fix" it.
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Old 12-29-2019, 10:39 PM
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If I were selling my Rubi D44s (and I'm not quite yet) they would be priced more at like $2500 for the set, maybe less like $2k. Front is gusseted too, both upper and lower C's. Then you could still sell your old axles plus rig up the e-lockers and have the knowledge of having Dana factory set up 4.10's in Rubi 44s. Look on craigslist in all the areas around you for a deal like that. Be willing to drive to get them. It may take a little time. I would be very surprised if it was $5k. I don't know your geographic region though. Here in the NE where I am they should not be $5k.

I assume in this that you can swap axle assemblies yourself though here.
If I could find them in that price range, it would be a no brainer. My pricing came from eBay. And a PM from a member more or less confirmed it. I will keep watching though. Located in Oregon but would go up to 500mi for them.
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Old 12-29-2019, 11:03 PM   #16
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If I could find them in that price range, it would be a no brainer. My pricing came from eBay. And a PM from a member more or less confirmed it. I will keep watching though. Located in Oregon but would go up to 500mi for them.
I'll keep an eye out for ya on forums and such. $5k is awfully steep for a set of Rubi axles IMHO. Maybe if they were 500 mile takeoffs, brand new, then maybe. You can get an aftermarket front D44 for that money though (vastly superior) then just deal with the rear in some way. Perhaps I am out of touch. I could have sworn I have seen them at $2-3k for the set though.

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