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Old 07-08-2019, 03:24 PM
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Running with the devil.

I have a 2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited with 53,000 miles.

In one swoop over this winter, installed an Atlas rear bumper, XRC gen 2 front bumper with 12K winch, 2.5" lift RockKrawler complete short arm suspension, Steel "D" hole 17" wheels with KA02 35", G2 44 complete front axle with 4.56 gears attached to ARB lockers front and back, G2 gold axles in the rear stock housing, Yeti steering, Gobi Ranger roof rack, and KC Pro Six light bar. Has auto transmission

With this being its first summer since its make over, when the outside temps are mid 90's or higher it runs hot ( as high as 240F) going down the freeway doing about 70-75 MPH (2800 to 3000 RPM range), when the RPMS are in the 3K to 5K range when you are getting on and off the throttle in stop and go thraffic and if you hit any kind of upward grade; it does all this with the A/C going full out. Putting around town or once the Jeep levels out on the freeway and kicks into OD it cools right down. Even going off road it does fine.

I replaced the radiator with a new OEM one four months ago because nobody makes an aftermarket worth a crap ( even my local 4 Wheel Parts quit installing aftermarket because they are nothing but crap). The whole cooling system has been flushed and new coolant added last Friday.

I'm thinking of going with an AEV hood and some vented fender liners.. What do you think? Any suggestions?

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Old 07-08-2019, 03:30 PM   #2
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Post up a photo of the front of your Jeep/grille area-

Sometimes accessories that block airflow mounted up front do so just enough to reduce or divert airflow normally needed for optimal cooling. Losing the stock air dam (that mounted below your stock bumper) may add to this issue.
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Old 07-08-2019, 03:32 PM   #3
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Changing the inner fenders allows a lot of heat to escape as well. Curious to what others think the heat is being caused by. Gearing wouldn't do it I wouldn't think.

Also, assume you replaced the thermostat when you did the radiator?

Also, when it gets that hot, turn the heat on not the AC. AC makes the engine work harder. Heater allows more fluid to transfer into the heater core, which can allow great cooling.
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Old 07-08-2019, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by basicxj View Post
Post up a photo of the front of your Jeep/grille area-

Sometimes accessories that block airflow mounted up front do so just enough to reduce or divert airflow normally needed for optimal cooling. Losing the stock air dam (that mounted below your stock bumper) may add to this issue.
The winch sits low in the bumper so it really doesn't block the grill. I did remove the grill inserts once I stared having cooling issues. It helped, but not a lot.
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Old 07-08-2019, 03:46 PM
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Changing the inner fenders allows a lot of heat to escape as well. Curious to what others think the heat is being caused by. Gearing wouldn't do it I wouldn't think.

Also, assume you replaced the thermostat when you did the radiator?

Also, when it gets that hot, turn the heat on not the AC. AC makes the engine work harder. Heater allows more fluid to transfer into the heater core, which can allow great cooling.
No,I din't replace the thermostat. I should have, but it only had 52K on it at the time.
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Old 07-08-2019, 03:50 PM   #6
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The winch sits low in the bumper so it really doesn't block the grill. I did remove the grill inserts once I stared having cooling issues. It helped, but not a lot.
Good call on the inserts. Is it possible to get the stock air dam back on under your aftermarket bumper? May/may not make a difference, but as the inserts have demonstrated, it doesn't take much. It might be possible to temporarily rig an air dam behind the bumper using cardboard and tape for a test drive, to see if air is being diverted away from the grille slots and turbulence has that air going somewhere other than through the radiator.

Jeep runs the 3.6 on the hot side to begin with, and every addition to the Jeep can potentially mess with airflow through the stock radiator and engine compartment. A vented hood, additional compartment vents may help as you have suggested.
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Old 07-08-2019, 04:03 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Rick Grimes View Post
I have a 2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited with 53,000 miles.

In one swoop over this winter, installed an Atlas rear bumper, XRC gen 2 front bumper with 12K winch, 2.5" lift RockKrawler complete short arm suspension, Steel "D" hole 17" wheels with KA02 35", G2 44 complete front axle with 4.56 gears attached to ARB lockers front and back, G2 gold axles in the rear stock housing, Yeti steering, Gobi Ranger roof rack, and KC Pro Six light bar. Has auto transmission

With this being its first summer since its make over, when the outside temps are mid 90's or higher it runs hot ( as high as 240F) going down the freeway doing about 70-75 MPH (2800 to 3000 RPM range), when the RPMS are in the 3K to 5K range when you are getting on and off the throttle in stop and go thraffic and if you hit any kind of upward grade; it does all this with the A/C going full out. Putting around town or once the Jeep levels out on the freeway and kicks into OD it cools right down. Even going off road it does fine.

I replaced the radiator with a new OEM one four months ago because nobody makes an aftermarket worth a crap ( even my local 4 Wheel Parts quit installing aftermarket because they are nothing but crap). The whole cooling system has been flushed and new coolant added last Friday.

I'm thinking of going with an AEV hood and some vented fender liners.. What do you think? Any suggestions?
Welcome to hell my friend.

Fender liners don't help. (Got 'em)
Mishimoto radiator DID help. Did it solve the problem? No. But when it started to leak (replaced under warranty) and I put the stocker back in- the change was immediate. High temps all the way. Still have a problem so not sure I'd throw that much $$$ at it.
AEV is one of the very few hoods that have actually published a test and cooling data. Not much...5 degrees or so. But when I've contacted most companies to ask if they can verify cooling...I get crickets. I'll likely go with Poison Spyder only because it's cheap....and I know a lot of people that have said it helps. Mostly for crawling (not my issue) but I'll give it a shot. $1000 for 5 degrees doesn't cut it for me.
The one and only thing I've seen help is to re-program when the fan kicks on. The problem is that few tuners can do it. It can be programmed in the ECU but I've only seen one person be able to do it- and he's not around.
Alternately I've seen some people add fans...but that's difficult also.
And FYI- your combo of equipment does not necessarily relate to your heating issue. There have been hundreds of threads on it- and there are tons of people with armor, bumpers etc. with no issues. People with stock Jeeps have it. If skids, armor etc. were the reason for overheating then the roads up to Big Bear where I wheel would be full of overheated Jeeps. It's 7000 Ft. elevation and a climb to get there. Add to that probably 70% of Jeeps on the road are going there to rock crawl. And they all have winches, armor, bumpers etc. It would be very easy to pinpoint that as the culprit.
FYI there is a heating and cooling page now: https://www.wranglerforum.com/f1343/
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Old 07-08-2019, 04:05 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by basicxj View Post
Good call on the inserts. Is it possible to get the stock air dam back on under your aftermarket bumper? May/may not make a difference, but as the inserts have demonstrated, it doesn't take much. It might be possible to temporarily rig an air dam behind the bumper using cardboard and tape for a test drive, to see if air is being diverted away from the grille slots and turbulence has that air going somewhere other than through the radiator.

Jeep runs the 3.6 on the hot side to begin with, and every addition to the Jeep can potentially mess with airflow through the stock radiator and engine compartment. A vented hood, additional compartment vents may help as you have suggested.
I have armor that is the same shape and size at the stock air dam. It's basically the stocker in metal. Neither made an impact. Someone did test this by adding their OEM air damn back on...to no avail.
I'll also add that when this first started to happen Jeep said it was my winch. But I'd had the exact same set-up, with winch, for years before it started to overheat.
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Old 07-08-2019, 04:07 PM   #9
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I have armor that is the same shape and size at the stock air dam. It's basically the stocker in metal. Neither made an impact. Someone did test this by adding their OEM air damn back on...to no avail.
Good to know- I am still using the stock air dams, Hard Rock bumper.

Plans include a winch, bumper hoop, and hopefully no overheating to go with.
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Old 07-08-2019, 06:01 PM   #10
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I've been fighting this for a few years now. Here's what has helped me the most:

Radiator - Great help on uphill surges with larger capacity.

Gearing: 4.56 and 35s was a killer for me, RPMs too high when the auto gets into third gear during those uphill passes on the highway. Actually better now with 37s and the 4.56. I'm sure lower (numerically higher) gearing would help as well, I was just in between.

Power: I did a snorkel and cat back exhaust at the same time and they supposedly I think each increase hp by like 8hp. Seems to keep me in the higher gears longer even with the new 37s.

I also removed fender liners and grill inserts at some point.

Everything has made just a bit of a difference with temps, in the order i listed. To the point where I'm not afraid to pull a 3000lb trailer even with 37s now as long as it's not over the mountains. This is on a ~5600lb rig. Also gives an appreciation to how dynamic it all is - outside temps, hill length, speed, etc all play a part.
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Old 07-08-2019, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JeepHerz View Post
Welcome to hell my friend.

Fender liners don't help. (Got 'em)
Mishimoto radiator DID help. Did it solve the problem? No. But when it started to leak (replaced under warranty) and I put the stocker back in- the change was immediate. High temps all the way. Still have a problem so not sure I'd throw that much $$$ at it.
AEV is one of the very few hoods that have actually published a test and cooling data. Not much...5 degrees or so. But when I've contacted most companies to ask if they can verify cooling...I get crickets. I'll likely go with Poison Spyder only because it's cheap....and I know a lot of people that have said it helps. Mostly for crawling (not my issue) but I'll give it a shot. $1000 for 5 degrees doesn't cut it for me.
The one and only thing I've seen help is to re-program when the fan kicks on. The problem is that few tuners can do it. It can be programmed in the ECU but I've only seen one person be able to do it- and he's not around.
Alternately I've seen some people add fans...but that's difficult also.
And FYI- your combo of equipment does not necessarily relate to your heating issue. There have been hundreds of threads on it- and there are tons of people with armor, bumpers etc. with no issues. People with stock Jeeps have it. If skids, armor etc. were the reason for overheating then the roads up to Big Bear where I wheel would be full of overheated Jeeps. It's 7000 Ft. elevation and a climb to get there. Add to that probably 70% of Jeeps on the road are going there to rock crawl. And they all have winches, armor, bumpers etc. It would be very easy to pinpoint that as the culprit.
FYI there is a heating and cooling page now: https://www.wranglerforum.com/f1343/
As far as radiators and being "crap", what I meant is either they leak or the bolt bosses don't line up or brackets are missing or all of the above..... and they are expensive. I base my opinion from personal reviews on Quadratec, Morris, Extreme Terrain, Amazon, forums and my own local 4 Wheel Parts manager.

I really don't understand why not one company can make a good radiator. I mean seriously, out of all the thousands of aftermarket parts you can buy and slap on a Jeep, not one radiator worth a crap. Extremely pathetic.
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Old 07-08-2019, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JeepHerz View Post
Welcome to hell my friend.

Fender liners don't help. (Got 'em)
Mishimoto radiator DID help. Did it solve the problem? No. But when it started to leak (replaced under warranty) and I put the stocker back in- the change was immediate. High temps all the way. Still have a problem so not sure I'd throw that much $$$ at it.
AEV is one of the very few hoods that have actually published a test and cooling data. Not much...5 degrees or so. But when I've contacted most companies to ask if they can verify cooling...I get crickets. I'll likely go with Poison Spyder only because it's cheap....and I know a lot of people that have said it helps. Mostly for crawling (not my issue) but I'll give it a shot. $1000 for 5 degrees doesn't cut it for me.
The one and only thing I've seen help is to re-program when the fan kicks on. The problem is that few tuners can do it. It can be programmed in the ECU but I've only seen one person be able to do it- and he's not around.
Alternately I've seen some people add fans...but that's difficult also.
And FYI- your combo of equipment does not necessarily relate to your heating issue. There have been hundreds of threads on it- and there are tons of people with armor, bumpers etc. with no issues. People with stock Jeeps have it. If skids, armor etc. were the reason for overheating then the roads up to Big Bear where I wheel would be full of overheated Jeeps. It's 7000 Ft. elevation and a climb to get there. Add to that probably 70% of Jeeps on the road are going there to rock crawl. And they all have winches, armor, bumpers etc. It would be very easy to pinpoint that as the culprit.
FYI there is a heating and cooling page now: https://www.wranglerforum.com/f1343/
Thank you for your input. Mishimoto was one of the worst leakers out there. On Quadratec, it has a two star rating. Supposedly, there is a version 2. However when I asked the rep about it ( I think it was this forum), he wouldn't reply..... All that left me was a vision of piss poor customer service and would I were to have this same trouble if I developed a leak in one of their radiators if this is how they handle business.
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Old 07-08-2019, 08:39 PM
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I've been fighting this for a few years now. Here's what has helped me the most:

Radiator - Great help on uphill surges with larger capacity.

Gearing: 4.56 and 35s was a killer for me, RPMs too high when the auto gets into third gear during those uphill passes on the highway. Actually better now with 37s and the 4.56. I'm sure lower (numerically higher) gearing would help as well, I was just in between.

Power: I did a snorkel and cat back exhaust at the same time and they supposedly I think each increase hp by like 8hp. Seems to keep me in the higher gears longer even with the new 37s.

I also removed fender liners and grill inserts at some point.

Everything has made just a bit of a difference with temps, in the order i listed. To the point where I'm not afraid to pull a 3000lb trailer even with 37s now as long as it's not over the mountains. This is on a ~5600lb rig. Also gives an appreciation to how dynamic it all is - outside temps, hill length, speed, etc all play a part.
Thank you for the info! It does hang on that third gear a lot.... 37's?! bumber.... these are fresh 35's. I am so frustrated about aftermarket radiators.... I have had souped up cars in the past that required aftermarket radiators and never had any issues..... Yet, Jeep, with such a large market and resources, not one company can get their crap together and make one.
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Old 07-09-2019, 09:01 AM   #14
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I really don't understand why not one company can make a good radiator. I mean seriously, out of all the thousands of aftermarket parts you can buy and slap on a Jeep, not one radiator worth a crap. Extremely pathetic.
It's baffling. I may just have one made when the time comes. I had one made for my 55 Buick several years ago. The price was tolerable at a few hundred bucks, less than some aftermarket options. Unfortunately the old man went out of business, I checked shortly after "radiator" was added to my list of Jeep things to worry about.

Look around, there might be a shop near you...
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:36 PM   #15
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Thank you for the info! It does hang on that third gear a lot.... 37's?! bumber.... these are fresh 35's. I am so frustrated about aftermarket radiators.... I have had souped up cars in the past that required aftermarket radiators and never had any issues..... Yet, Jeep, with such a large market and resources, not one company can get their crap together and make one.
I am not sure it's the 4.56 gearing...so much as the gears, the tranny and EPC together. I have a lot of friends with similar set-ups- 4.56s and 35s, armor etc. Mine does what you say- uphill it cranks into 3rd...and the heat goes up with it. Yet for a good year, same grade, same stuff....the Pentastar pulled just fine. For no other reason I can determine except that the EPC perhaps "learned" to shift differently...now I can barely do 70 without it popping into 3rd at 4000 RPMs. I manually pop it into 4th and it goes right back. I have literally climbed the same hill with another JK on 4.56s and 35s- and they had no problems. I've been on hundreds of gear threads at this point and there doesn't appear to be any distinct correlation- not to say that not your case. Just that there hasn't been any distinct number of people it points to.I also tried changing my tire size with a Procal- no go there. There was a flash done early on- we thought that was it. I also found a lesser-known flash I had the dealer do. (Attached.) That seemed to help for awhile....and then it stopped. Which again; makes me think its the EPC. We've also wondered if there is a built-in elevation/grade sensor- ie. when it senses elevation change it changes RPM speed.
As to the radiators- I had my Mish. for about 4 years. I did not pay for it- they asked me to test fit it on my 2012 at the time. When it started to leak I couldn't produce a receipt for warranty. I told them I'd pay for them to repair given it was free. They declined and sent me a new one. So while I wish it took care of the problem entirely....I can't complaint about their customer service from my perspective.
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