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Old 07-13-2015, 02:45 PM
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These led's work without resistor

If your looking just to upgrade your turnsignals, backup,etc without having to splice in a resistor then these are the ticket. To me they appear almost twice as bright as the bulbs they replace.


2PCS Red 3157 3057 3457 4157 High Power 5730 33SMD LED Bulbs - Brake Tail Light

2PCS Amber 3157 3057 3457 4157 High Power 5730 33SMD LED Bulbs -Turn Signals







2PCS White 3157 3057 3457 4157 33x 5730 SMD LED Bulbs for Reverse Back up Light

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Old 03-07-2017, 09:19 PM   #2
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Seriously ??? Why arent theae more wll known ???

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Old 03-08-2017, 12:49 AM   #3
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I just bought the amber fronts, i will report back on my findings ...
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Old 03-08-2017, 04:18 AM   #4
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Old 03-08-2017, 06:52 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d fela View Post
If your looking just to upgrade your turnsignals, backup,etc without having to splice in a resistor then these are the ticket.
One never has to ever splice a resistor into the line, for the backup LED lights. They are driven off a relay, and there is no feedback current measurement by the computer.
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Old 03-11-2017, 09:54 PM   #6
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I regret to inform these do not work :-( ... put a set in my front turn signals and after the 5th blink i get the hyper flash and a message on the EVIC. They make another model that is a little higher wattage, ill see if they work... cant believe how much trouble a stupid bulb is...

For the record, my jeep is a 2016. Perhaps the older jeeps are happy with these ???
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Old 03-12-2017, 01:38 AM   #7
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Doubt it (anything after 2007 that is). The best way to insure having a good LED bulb is to buy ones labeled Canbus compatible in the ad.

The link for the front parking/blinkers has this at the bottom - "Canbus: Items are not CANBUS. You may need load resistors to get rid off error code. If items are used for turn signals, they need load resistors to prevent hyper-flash."

The tail lights also need Canbus bulbs.

As mentioned already, reverse don't seem to run Canbus anyhow, to any bulb type works.
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Old 03-12-2017, 08:23 AM   #8
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After reading, I was stoked to find LED turn signal bulbs that didn't hyperflash. I was ready to drop some coin on the load resistors and go that route. I did some looking and came across these: https://www.amazon.com/SOCAL-LED-Err.../dp/B00R3U1CP2. However, in the description, it says, "Please note that the primary function of the CANBUS system is to take off the error code on dash; it might still cause hyper flashing, no flash on turn signal bulb for some of the cars. you will need an additional load resistor (not included) to solve this issue." Then, farther down, there's a section that says, "what else did people buy...", and there are load resistors listed....
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Old 03-12-2017, 12:44 PM   #9
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Ive bought canbus bulbs in the past, They were the Sylvania Zevo, which are canbus bulbs and it did the same thing.
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Old 03-13-2017, 07:25 AM   #10
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I'm *still* looking... I did find these from Mictuning: Jeep Wrangler Amber light turn signal light. (FWIW, I'm using a Mictuning wiring harness to power my A-pillar pods.). It doesn't say (it's not clear if) you need anything else. They *look* PnP, tho. They're $35 clams.
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Old 03-13-2017, 08:11 AM   #11
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Ive bought canbus bulbs in the past, They were the Sylvania Zevo, which are canbus bulbs and it did the same thing.
It's not a matter of CANBUS or not. LED bulbs have a lower resistance than regular filament bulbs. The JK/U is designed to hyperflash and display a message if a bulb fails and it's resistance changes. In order for an LED bulb to work, the add-on resistor is typically needed to compensate for the LED's lower resistance.
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Old 03-13-2017, 11:24 AM   #12
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GENSII reverse bulbs work like a champ but comon, has the holy grail LED turn signal bulb without resistors been discovered yet? No



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Old 03-13-2017, 12:09 PM   #13
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.... In order for an LED bulb to work, the add-on resistor is typically needed to compensate for the LED's lower resistance.
"CANBUS" LED bulbs are just regular LED bulbs with an added internal resistor in parallel with the LED(s). The resistor acts like a little electric heater, using additional current to fool the vehicle's computer into thinking it is running a regular incandescent bulb. The end result is an LED bulb that uses the same amount of power as a conventional incandescent does.

If you are buying LED bulbs for their color and brightness look, then the canbus bulbs are OK. If, on the other hand you are buying them to put less drain on your electrical system, you are wasting your money because they won't do that.

Critical incandescent bulbs on your Wrangler, such as turn and brake lights, are monitored by the computer, and would need "CANBUS" LED replacement bulbs to avoid errors. However, non-critical bulbs such as (in most cases) interior lighting, backup lights, and license plate lights are not monitored so you can replace incandescent bulbs in those with power-saving non-CANBUS LED bulbs without errors.
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Old 03-13-2017, 12:12 PM   #14
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Not YET, @nomad10th . I would have certainly thought by NOW it would be done!! Walmart has load resistors for like $9, but I don't wanna drill! Even though I live in the south, and it generally only snows a little and once a year, it's not worth it. I can wait for someone to develop it!
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Old 03-13-2017, 12:24 PM   #15
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I know this thread is about LED side markers/turn signals, but I've heard the fog lights can be swapped straight for a PSX24W bulb (Stock bulb part number is 2504).
(https://www.amazon.com/s?field-keywords=Psx24w+bulb). Just kind of an "in case you didn't know..." thing.

Here's a link to the thread (if anyone is interested): https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/re...1186313-2.html
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Old 03-14-2017, 01:02 AM   #16
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Does the system look for resistance OR current??? And what is the threshold? I would be shocked if the tolerance is very tight, some of these high power LED's MAY draw enough current to be in tolerance of the computer... I was wondering about instead of using a resistor, just using another bulb in parallel, like a 194, small and last forever. this may get it over the threshold.


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It's not a matter of CANBUS or not. LED bulbs have a lower resistance than regular filament bulbs. The JK/U is designed to hyperflash and display a message if a bulb fails and it's resistance changes. In order for an LED bulb to work, the add-on resistor is typically needed to compensate for the LED's lower resistance.
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:13 AM   #17
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Installed new LED fog lights: Alla Lighting 4014 54-SMD, Version 2504 PSX24W LED Fog Light Bulb Replacement ($25 on Amazon). They are PnP, and they match my headlights.
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:15 AM   #18
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Headlights and fogs match
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:19 PM   #19
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I was talking about turn signals ... fogs are another animal altogether... my 2016 flickers my LED fogs, this is known and well understood... lets focus on LED turn signals...
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Old 05-18-2017, 04:39 PM   #20
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Doing some experiments with the Jeep.

2016 Wrangler Unlimited.

Rear LED bulb = Hyperflash and Warning on Dash
Rear LED bulb and 194 bulb attached to trailer harness = WORKED
Rear LED bulb and matching LED bulb attached to trailer harness = WORKED
NO Rear Bulb and 194 bulb attached to trailer harness = Long time before Hyperflash and Warning on dash
No Rear bulb and 2 194 bulbs attached to trailer harness = WORKED

Conclusion,
There is NOT a filament continuity resistance test, seems to test LOAD based. 194 bulbs are 3.8w - 4w. This tells me that 7.6-8 watts is needed to keep the system from Hyperflashing/erroring. I am sure the number MAY be a little lower considering a single 194 bulb worked for quite a few blinks before the hyper flash/error was started. Also, DUAL led's worked fine, telling me that continuity resistance is NOT something the system tests, just load AMPS/WATTS.

PLAN! Since I cannot find a 3157 LED that consumes 8+ watts PER, then I will use rear hitch plug such the image below to create a little extra load. and for the front I am using Hella H4 housings with LED headlights, they have a spot for a 194 "city" light that i can wire to the front.

What this does it allow ALL LED lighting WITHOUT splicing harness and/or adding wasteful/unreliable/dangerous resistors...

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Old 12-17-2017, 01:42 PM   #21
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Headlights and fogs match
You still recommend these bulbs.
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Old 12-18-2017, 04:40 AM   #22
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They’re still working. I use them as DRL, and still going strong. My wife said, “Why are your lights flickering?” I thought it was only from vibration while the engine was running. I added a couple resistors I found at Wally’s. Cheap (< $10), and work like a charm!
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Old 01-01-2018, 01:15 PM   #23
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Anyone find a solid LED that will not hyperflash without resistors ??? I might order some stupid high power LEDs and see what happens ...
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Old 01-09-2018, 03:56 AM   #24
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I performed more experiments ... SEEMS the Jeep needs to see more than 5.5 watts on the blinker circuit to keep from hyper flashing... I can get LEDs to work without resistors, BUT as soon as I hit the running lights they hyper flash... seems these LEDs SPLIT THE LOAD between running and flasher circuits ... SO! We need to find an LED that takes 10watts and we will be in business ... I am still experimenting, thanks to Amazon
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Old 01-12-2018, 04:15 PM   #27
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Just out of curiosity (and this might be an odd question) how long after installing different bulbs does it take to get any hyperflash or warning lights? Is it only with LEDs?
Sorry for going a bit off topic. I'm working on a different project, and while trying different ideas I switched the brake/turn wire to a 67 (incandescent) bulb (8 watts). The stock running light/bulb worked normal, and the 67 bulb worked as the brake/turn light. Everything seems to be OK, but I didn't run it that way long.
Since the stock 3157s are (listed at) 8.3w running and 26.9w brake/turn, I wasn't sure if the drop to 8w for the brake/turn would be an issue. So how long would it take to get a warning light in the dash? Obviously I can't drive around like this to give it more time to error.
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Old 01-13-2018, 12:10 AM   #28
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Just out of curiosity (and this might be an odd question) how long after installing different bulbs does it take to get any hyperflash or warning lights? Is it only with LEDs?
Sorry for going a bit off topic. I'm working on a different project, and while trying different ideas I switched the brake/turn wire to a 67 (incandescent) bulb (8 watts). The stock running light/bulb worked normal, and the 67 bulb worked as the brake/turn light. Everything seems to be OK, but I didn't run it that way long.
Since the stock 3157s are (listed at) 8.3w running and 26.9w brake/turn, I wasn't sure if the drop to 8w for the brake/turn would be an issue. So how long would it take to get a warning light in the dash? Obviously I can't drive around like this to give it more time to error.
Unplug the bulb and see ... Pretty quick
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Old 01-13-2018, 01:09 AM   #29
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Unplug the bulb and see ... Pretty quick
That would give me no bulb for brake/turn (i.e. 0 watt) and stock 3157 (8.3w) for running (I'm not combining bulbs for the same purpose, just a smaller wattage bulb for the brake/turn part). I assume 0w would tell the 'puter the bulb filament is burnt out. But your 3.78w by itself delayed it.
I'm going by parts of your earlier post "NO Rear Bulb and 194 bulb attached to trailer harness = Long time before Hyperflash and Warning on dash". And "...a single 194 bulb worked for quite a few blinks before the hyper flash/error was started." That's basically what I did but with the 67 (8w) bulb. How long was a long time, or quite a few blinks?
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Old 01-16-2018, 01:51 AM   #30
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Unplug the bulb and see ... Pretty quick
That would give me no bulb for brake/turn (i.e. 0 watt) and stock 3157 (8.3w) for running (I'm not combining bulbs for the same purpose, just a smaller wattage bulb for the brake/turn part). I assume 0w would tell the 'puter the bulb filament is burnt out. But your 3.78w by itself delayed it.
I'm going by parts of your earlier post "NO Rear Bulb and 194 bulb attached to trailer harness = Long time before Hyperflash and Warning on dash". And "...a single 194 bulb worked for quite a few blinks before the hyper flash/error was started." That's basically what I did but with the 67 (8w) bulb. How long was a long time, or quite a few blinks?
AH! So, normally the failure happens after about 4 blinks... when I meant long time, I counted 9.

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