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Tricks to lifting spare tire onto spare tire mount?

34K views 93 replies 66 participants last post by  Error 
#1 ·
It sucks to lift my nearly 35" spare tire to put it on the spare tire mount. I can get it up there, but it weighs a ton and it is a struggle to hold it while I line up the studs with the bolt holes.

Anyone have a trick to getting it up there and onto the spare tire mount?

BTW, I've got a trick to getting the wheel onto the axle that works well. Sitting with my butt on the ground, I straddle the hub with the wheel between my legs. I can then lift the wheel in part with my arms and in part by closing my legs and support the wheel on my thighs while I line up the studs and bolt holes. It's pretty easy, other than you get dirty.
 
#5 ·
Same issue and has nothing to do with the gym.

My tire weighs 101 lbs and I can easily lift it up to the mount yet I can't line up to stub mounts. Been scratching the crap out of my new wheels as well.
 
#4 ·
I only have 33s but still 87 awkward lbs. I use a plastic step that I put my foot on and then can balance the tire on my knee, beats trying to muscle it on.
 
#7 ·
Gotta hitch?

Stick 18" of 2x4 into the hitch, lift the tire onto that, line up the lug holes by eye, then just lift it the last 6 inches to put it on. (will have to cut down the end of the 2x4 a bit)

If you don't get it the first time, you don't have to lift it from the floor again.

Leave the piece of 2x4 in the back to use as a jack base if you have to change a tire on the trail.
 
#8 ·
Stick 18" of 2x4 into the hitch. . .
I'll try that or maybe stick my hitch in the receiver.

I currently lift from the ground to the spare mount, and try and hold the wheel up with my knee (while standing on one foot) as I fumble around getting the holes lined up. If I don't get the wheel on before I run out of breath, I have to set the wheel back down and lift from the ground again. With the hitch in place, maybe I could step on the ball for support.
 
#9 ·
35s

I get the lug holes lined up while on the ground.

Heave it onto my ball hitch.

Get a better grasp.

Use legs to slowly lift it up and onto the mount.
 
#10 ·
35s i get the lug holes lined up while on the ground. Heave it onto my ball hitch. Get a better grasp. Use legs to slowly lift it up and onto the mount.
x2^
 
#14 ·
I just start to bounce that spare tire until it reaches the proper height and quickly push it on the lugs... See ya on the Trail!!!
More like "see ya in the ER!" LOL
 
#26 ·
I put an 8 foot long 2 X 6 on the ground on one end and the other end on a stool and roll the tire up onto the stool and can then push it on the studs by myself.
I am middle age w/bad back and can't lift the weight from the ground.
it's how they built the pyramids! :)

to remove it, I just pull off the studs, turn around and let it bounce, controlling the bounce as best I can....
 
#51 ·
I use a shorter piece of plywood here at the house and place the other end on the rear bumper.
 
#27 ·
To get our Golden Retriever in and out of our lifted JKU, I got a telescoping dog ramp. We leave the drivers side rear seat down and the ramp slides right in. I use it for a tire ramp for our 37's with our JCR rear bumper too. Works great!

 
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#31 ·
I jack up the front of the Jeep using a high lift jack. Block the tire's, put blocks under the highlift. then jack up the front some more. Repeat the above procedure 3 more times and the jeep will stand square onto its back end. If you correctly placed the tire/wheel on the ground face down with the lugs properly clocked it should slide right into place. Now the tricky part, you dig a tunnel under the tire jeep combination, so that you can get the nuts onto the studs. The great thing about this method is you do not have to torque the lugs down until you lower the jeep back down onto four wheels. Ask a neighbor or the guys you have over for BBQ to help you get the jeep to lean back towards the wheels to get the initial lowering part of the process started and weight back on the jack and blocks. Oh yea, do not forget to fill in the tunnel so nobody steps in it and hurts an ankle, remember always safety is job 1. Then you can proceed to torque the three lugs to spec, and especially in this case do it in a three step torque procedure, you know 10lbs then step up to 20lbs, then to final torque spec.

Or you can get 20 guys to pick up the jeep and one to hold the lug nut and have them spin the jeep in unison.

Hopefully this helps
 
#36 ·
I jack up the front of the Jeep using a high lift jack. Block the tire's, put blocks under the highlift. then jack up the front some more. Repeat the above procedure 3 more times and the jeep will stand square onto its back end. If you correctly placed the tire/wheel on the ground face down with the lugs properly clocked it should slide right into place. Now the tricky part, you dig a tunnel under the tire jeep combination, so that you can get the nuts onto the studs. The great thing about this method is you do not have to torque the lugs down until you lower the jeep back down onto four wheels. Ask a neighbor or the guys you have over for BBQ to help you get the jeep to lean back towards the wheels to get the initial lowering part of the process started and weight back on the jack and blocks. Oh yea, do not forget to fill in the tunnel so nobody steps in it and hurts an ankle, remember always safety is job 1. Then you can proceed to torque the three lugs to spec, and especially in this case do it in a three step torque procedure, you know 10lbs then step up to 20lbs, then to final torque spec.

Or you can get 20 guys to pick up the jeep and one to hold the lug nut and have them spin the jeep in unison.

Hopefully this helps
:rofl: I can't stop laughing from all the comments on page 2! :)
 
#32 ·
OK, this might sound weird but, place the tire on the ground facing the Jeep (front of the wheel facing the tailgate), try to line up the two holes on the bottom to be level. Then (bend your knees) lean over and grab the wheel by the spokes or holes and use one knee to help you swing it up to the carrier. The face of the wheel will now be facing you and you should be able to get it onto the bolts. It beats trying to dead lift it up to the bolts. It takes a little practice, but if done correctly, should save the strain in your back. Otherwise, phone a friend.
 
#37 ·
I let the air out of the tire first, lift it on, then air it back up. I figure that's 32-40 pounds of air that I don't have to lift.




Someone actually believed me before.
 
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#38 ·
I let the air out of the tire first, lift it on, then air it back up. I figure that's 32-40 pounds of air that I don't have to lift.
You got it all wrong dummy.

What's the total square inches on a tire? Because if you are running 35 pounds per square inch then you have to be saving a gazillion pounds by letting the air out.
 
#40 ·
Well at my age, this is becoming a bigger issue than for you young fellows. The lifting is not the hard part, but the lining it up and holding my wiring out of the way at the same time, is tough. So I came up with this solution, which works well, and saves my back.
 

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#45 ·
Can't do much about the weight, but If you remove the center cap on the wheel it is much easier to see the studs on the carrier and line them up with the holes on the wheel. That way you are not trying to hold the spare up and move it around for quite so long. I also do this when changing/rotating tires. Much easier to line things up with the center cap off.
 
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