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Old 05-10-2017, 03:12 PM
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wife says, "lets get a 4 door"

I said well yeah Im always up for a new project!!!
Got a question or two
Its not going to be a trail/off road mudder, just a weekend cruiser/grocery getter/tail gater but I want it to look good. needs to be;
4 door
Auto trans
Hard top
Now the ?
When looking on CL I noticed the older models were 3.8L and sometime went 3.6 ??? Is there a model year I don't want??
Will be looking to do a budget lift and up the tire size,
Spacer lift yes or No?
I do like the after market front and rear bumpers if the extra weight makes a difference. I just want it to drive and handle right on the hyway if the wife wants to drive it to work.
I like the looks of the Rubicon interior stereo/Nav, seats but wouldn't be a must.
Thanks for any and all advise/info

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Old 05-10-2017, 03:22 PM   #2
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If you can afford it 2013 or newer. They changed to the 3.6 in 2012 but some 2012s have cylinder head issues.

If you can't afford it the 3.8 is a reliable but underpowered engine that has a reputation of using oil. Not a deal breaker but check your oil fairly often.

The automatic is better in the newer models as well. (I say get a manual, but I am biased)

Avoid 3.21 gear ratios if you want larger tires unless you plan to regear yourself.

Spacer lifts, like the Terraflex are fine.

You will need new wheels with less backspaceing (or spacers) for tires wider than 10.5inches.

I would look at aluminum bumpers if you can afford it for a DD as they are lighter and have the same look.
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Old 05-10-2017, 03:30 PM   #3
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The Rubicon interior consists of stitching that says Rubicon on the seats.the seats are the same and the stereo options are the same as in most other models.

The 3.6 is a big bump in performance and has a better auto trans IIRC. The first year or so had some issues, but they sorted it out and there is an extended warranty on them. If it hasn't been replaced yet, it probably will never need to be.

3.8 isn't bad but it can burn oil. Sometimes a new PCV or change of viscosity can fix it.
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Old 05-10-2017, 04:06 PM
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If you can afford it 2013 or newer. They changed to the 3.6 in 2012 but some 2012s have cylinder head issues.

If you can't afford it the 3.8 is a reliable but underpowered engine that has a reputation of using oil. Not a deal breaker but check your oil fairly often.

The automatic is better in the newer models as well. (I say get a manual, but I am biased)

Avoid 3.21 gear ratios if you want larger tires unless you plan to regear yourself.

Spacer lifts, like the Terraflex are fine.

You will need new wheels with less backspaceing (or spacers) for tires wider than 10.5inches.

I would look at aluminum bumpers if you can afford it for a DD as they are lighter and have the same look.
Great Info Mocks,
I was just in Chatt week before last on a fishing trip>Rain,Rain, and More RAIN!!LOL
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Old 05-10-2017, 04:10 PM
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The Rubicon interior consists of stitching that says Rubicon on the seats.the seats are the same and the stereo options are the same as in most other models.

The 3.6 is a big bump in performance and has a better auto trans IIRC. The first year or so had some issues, but they sorted it out and there is an extended warranty on them. If it hasn't been replaced yet, it probably will never need to be.

3.8 isn't bad but it can burn oil. Sometimes a new PCV or change of viscosity can fix it.
Thanks Whiskey R
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Old 05-10-2017, 04:13 PM   #6
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Yep, shoot for the 3.6. They started in 2012 and I've had no issues with mine.

The 2012 head issue affected 1-2% of the Wranglers out there. Decent odds in my opinion. Plus they have put a 10yr warranty out there on the issue.
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Old 05-10-2017, 04:13 PM   #7
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If it is just a grocery getter, skip the rubicon and get a Sahara. Will save a few $$. You won't need the upgraded off road parts, so why pay for them. The Sahara has all the doo dads like a rubicon, just not the dana 44 front axle, lockers, or 4:1 transfer case. I wouldn't pay all the extra $$$ for a sticker on the hood.
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Old 05-10-2017, 04:18 PM   #8
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You can also look at the Willys edition, has some nice upgrades. All black wheels, 3.73 gearing, Goodrich Mud Terrain tires, black grill... Nice model, a small step down from the Rubi if your not really doing crazy trails.
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Old 05-10-2017, 05:06 PM   #9
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I agree, the Sahara is perfect, all of the creature comforts of a rubicon without the expense of the off-road goodies. Agree with everyone else as well. I'd throw my two cents and say a 2014-2017 is a great range for a used JKU.
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Old 05-10-2017, 05:33 PM   #10
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I agree, the Sahara is perfect, all of the creature comforts of a rubicon without the expense of the off-road goodies. Agree with everyone else as well. I'd throw my two cents and say a 2014-2017 is a great range for a used JKU.
Sahara. My wife had a 2010, but get something more recent to get the 3.6.

I had the head issue on mine at 8000 miles. Since the swap, it's been fine over 5 years later and 60,000 miles on the clock.
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Old 05-11-2017, 08:44 AM
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Great Info guys!!
Looking on line the retail jumps substantially when you get above 2013 but stands to reason. We'll more than likely be keeping it a while so I will narrow my search to a 13 or newer and look closely at the Sahara trim package.
THanks
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Old 05-11-2017, 09:10 AM   #12
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Its not going to be a trail/off road mudder, just a weekend cruiser/grocery getter/tail gater
4 door
Auto trans
Hard top
As others have said, MY13 and up if you can swing it for better engine and transmission.

If it's never going offroad then assume max tire size 33 in stock form, then +2 inches for cutting fender flares or adding a spacer/puck lift. 35's on a near bone stock stance look pretty slick. Just be sure to get proper width wheels with good offset. Skip the Rubicon/HR/Recon trims, you don't need the 4:1 Transfer case or 4.10 gearing, even with 35's. Just don't cry about poor pickup on 3.21 gears with 35's if you go for Sport/Sport S trim.

Metal bumpers and wide solid side steps are a good deterrent to the absent-minded folk who swing their doors open without looking or use your crumply plastic bumper for wiggle room trying to parallel park.

If you lift, get it aligned, make sure all your bolts are torqued down. I had flighty steering that frustrated and boggled me for the longest time until someone told me the Correct torque setting for my trackbar bolts (125lbft for the record, not the mfr's recommended 105)

I guess the only question left is do you pay the used-Wrangler premium (initial purchase minus $2k per model year released since), or do you buy new? If you decide to buy new, check out my thread sticky'ed at the top of this subforum for tips and tricks on how to save. I got my 2dr Rubicon for a couple thousand less out the door than one year used with 12k miles would've cost me, about the same price as a 2-year used similarly optioned Rubicon would demand in my market. Just FYI.
https://www.wranglerforum.com/www.wra...e-2026289.html

O_E
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Old 05-11-2017, 09:43 AM   #13
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@Other_Erik I've always thought; Less is More in this respect.
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Old 05-11-2017, 11:25 AM   #14
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My Sport has the 3.6 and the 3.73 gears and it's still a dog. I wouldn't go any taller than the 3.73s, especially if you see yourself putting bigger tires on it.
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Old 05-12-2017, 06:19 PM   #15
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2007-2011 auto transmissions have no tranny cooler so stay away from them, get the 6spd manual. for the 2012 + get the auto. its NAG1 WA580 german transmission and is good up to 500 HP. Get one with max tow package as it has the 3.73 gears. Everything else is upgradeable.
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Old 05-12-2017, 08:03 PM   #16
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If the wife want's a 4-door, probably will need to be equipped with a car seat and a diaper bag. Leave it up to Chrysler to make a minivan out of a Jeep.
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Old 06-07-2017, 01:29 PM
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If the wife want's a 4-door, probably will need to be equipped with a car seat and a diaper bag. Leave it up to Chrysler to make a minivan out of a Jeep.
OH NO.... WE way past that stage in life!!!
I'm still shopping but man the price goes up dramatically when you get above the 2013 models!!
My budget looks to be in the 2007-2010 range..

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