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Old 04-20-2018, 11:45 AM
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Anyone have experiences with high flow water pump?

Looking for input from someone that's actually installed a high flow water pump. Any issues with cavitation?

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Old 04-20-2018, 11:49 AM
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Setup in question is 97 TJ 4.0L, also looking to add 2 row, 1" tube aluminum radiator. Not currently experiencing overheating, just wanting to keep temp down on highway. 4.56 regear last year resulting in high RPM along with front winch blocking a bit of the air flow into radiator.

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Old 04-20-2018, 11:55 AM   #3
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Stick with all OEM cooling. High RPMs arent hurting anything. I constantly run at 3k RPM. Same setup: 4.56 gears, winch up front, 33s.
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Old 04-20-2018, 12:56 PM   #4
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I have no experience with high flow water pumps on my own 4.0 motors, but have personally observed the effects on other people's engines.

Bottom line: Don't waste your time, money or energy. A properly operating OEM cooling system works just fine - even with a winch in place and even in very hot climates.

BTW, any issues presented by having a winch partially block airflow will present themselves (if at all) at low speeds and relatively low rpm's such as crawling in 4WD low range. There should be no adverse effects at higher rpm's or at highway speeds.
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Old 04-20-2018, 01:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpbowers View Post
Setup in question is 97 TJ 4.0L, also looking to add 2 row, 1" tube aluminum radiator. Not currently experiencing overheating, just wanting to keep temp down on highway. 4.56 regear last year resulting in high RPM along with front winch blocking a bit of the air flow into radiator.
A winch will NOT significantly affect the airflow through a radiator. If it did all us winch owners would have converted to different radiators... we haven't.

Know too that the number of rows in a radiator core is no indication of cooling ability. A 3 row radiator will not necessarily cool better than a 1 row core. In fact, Jeep redesigned the OE radiator in 99 or so from a 2 row to 1 row core which overall produced better cooling characteristics.

No kidding, you can't beat the OE Mopar single row radiator with its all aluminum core. The key to it working so well is its overall design, not its number of rows. Us desert wheelers would have long-ago abandoned the OE Mopar radiator if it didn't work so well.

If your cooling system has become marginal, it is fixable without converting to other radiator designs, water pumps, water wetter, etc. The radiator could be clogged internally with hard water deposits from using tap water rich in minerals to mix with the coolant. Or the fins could be clogged from mud or dirt. Perhaps the thermostat is sticking, the fan clutch could be going bad, or the coolant has too much antifreeze and too little water in its mixture.

Whatever you do, don't try to fix it with cheap aftermarket radiators that try to sell people by pushing that they have 2 or 3 rows, etc.. I'd stick with finding the problem... the OE cooling system has way more cooling capacity when it's working properly than is needed for any conceivable condition... including my often unbelievably hot desert conditions while doing low-speed rock crawling. The only time my cooling system has overheated on the trai was when my thermostat started hanging up and before it finally stuck closed. Temporarily removing it until I could get home to replace it got me rolling again.
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Old 04-20-2018, 02:41 PM   #6
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The three posts above have given you lots of great advice. Assuming you have not made major modifications to your engine--and it sounds like you have not--the stock cooling system is engineered to keep your engine properly cool in any imaginable situation.

Having said that, I have a question. You claim you aren't experiencing any overheating, but then you said you wanted to keep your temp down on the highway. What temp are you currently running on the highway?
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Old 04-20-2018, 08:33 PM   #7
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And keep in mind. A waterpump that flows faster doesent allow the coolant to stay in the radiator as long.
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Old 04-20-2018, 11:23 PM   #8
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A high flow water pump is abouy as useful as buying your shoes 3 sizes bigger.
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Old 04-24-2018, 10:18 AM
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Sustained between 65 & 75 on the highway, the temp creeps up to 225-235. Staying at 55 to 60, the temp will hover around 200.
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Old 04-24-2018, 10:53 AM   #10
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Sustained between 65 & 75 on the highway, the temp creeps up to 225-235. Staying at 55 to 60, the temp will hover around 200.
I can run up hill at 70MPH turning 4,000 RPM for 5 minutes straight during 105 degree weather without my temp ever exceeding 210 degrees. All new OEM parts. Sounds like you just need to gut your cooling system and install new factory parts.
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Old 04-29-2018, 10:01 PM   #11
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And keep in mind. A waterpump that flows faster doesent allow the coolant to stay in the radiator as long.
The coolant also doesn't remain in the block/head for as long either, so it all works out in the final analysis. In fact, a higher cycle time results in more uniform temps than a slower cycle time.
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Old 05-05-2018, 11:38 PM   #12
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I have been running a flowkooler pump on my 4.0 since the late 90's and never had a problem with it. But at the same time i don't think it does any better of a job than a non hiflow. My Flowkooler pump was built off of a GMB water pump with a metal disc riveted to the impeller.

I have installed a lot of water pumps on jeeps over the years and i have had some prematurely fail but never a GMB they make good pumps and i just put one on a 5.9 V8 RAM. GMB pumps are cheap too but very good quality better them OEM in my opinion.
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Old 05-05-2018, 11:57 PM   #13
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The thermostat keeps the coolant in the block/heads to absorb heat. The one thing a hi-flo water pump does is eliminate steam pockets. Unless you put a overdrive crank pulley on I doubt you would cause cavitation.
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Old 09-07-2018, 12:10 PM
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Follow up to warmer engine temps

It's been a while since my original post and I wanted to take a methodical approach to resolving my warmer temps at highway speeds.


I flushed the cooling system (replaced 60/40 mix), replaced the water pump with a standard factory recommended model. Replaced thermostat (195 degree) and housing and replaced all hoses.



Still same issue, when driving over 65mph, the temp would rise to the 230 to 235 range. Although not hazardous, it just bothered me.


Last piece of the puzzle, I ended up purchasing and installing an AE2101 2 row 1" tube radiator. Since that I've embarked on a 1700 mile road trip thru the Smokey Mountains and lots of hwy driving at 75mph +. Low and behold, the temp never rose about the 205 to 208 range. All said and done, it was definitely the radiator that made the difference. Even though I've replaced the radiator twice in the last 5 years with the standard OEM model thinking that was the cause, it appears the larger flow unit worked in my case. As always, there is not a one size fits all solution for anything.


Also, for all the grief I have received from not just this forum, but others as well, stating "The Jeep engineers spent years and millions of dollars perfecting the solution, ONLY use OEM parts...." then they follow up their comments with the dozens of upgrades and changes they've performed to their rig, I just find it ironic.



With that, I still use the forum for it's depth of knowledge and experience for any and all issues or questions I have with my TJ.



Thanks for your input and questions, it's all good.



Charles
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Old 09-08-2018, 06:49 AM   #15
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"Standard OEM model" doesn't always mean Mopar. Nothing works any better unless you have other issues.
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Old 09-08-2018, 10:41 AM   #16
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I have not been happy with my non OEM replacement radiator's performance. I just ordered a Mopar 55037653AC and hope it is a drastic improvement. I almost bought an AE2101 and probably should have. The AE2101 has many more 1 inch tubes and the water should flow much slower through it. We will see. If the magical Mopar radiator doesn't cool significantly better it will be for sale.
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Old 09-08-2018, 01:31 PM   #17
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I have not been happy with my non OEM replacement radiator's performance. I just ordered a Mopar 55037653AC and hope it is a drastic improvement. I almost bought an AE2101 and probably should have. The AE2101 has many more 1 inch tubes and the water should flow much slower through it. We will see. If the magical Mopar radiator doesn't cool significantly better it will be for sale.



I have the AE2101 and it fit's like shit and the factory shroud is not made to bolt onto it. I guess you are supposed to buy their electric fan kit for it to bolt up properly. And on my YJ i could not bolt the power steering reservoir back on because of the way it is made. Besides the poor fit i haven't had any problems with it but it dont seem to cool any better than the factory radiator and the fit is much worse.
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Old 09-09-2018, 11:58 AM   #18
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One thing I havenít seen mentioned is a factory lower radiator hose with spring. I was having temps rise above 210 on the highway. Previous owner installed a new radiator, 180* tstat and electric fan. I just replaced the water pump, new 195* tstat, reinstalled original fan with new clutch and put on new factory hoses. The previous hoses were aftermarket, flimsy and lower didnít have a spring. Now temps stay under 210 hwy and city.

I canít say definitely the lower hose caving was the culprit, but doubt it was the electric fan or tstat. Maybe the water pump, but Iím leaning on the lower hose being the cause. Thoughts?
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Old 09-10-2018, 10:49 AM   #19
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One thing I havenít seen mentioned is a factory lower radiator hose with spring. I was having temps rise above 210 on the highway. Previous owner installed a new radiator, 180* tstat and electric fan. I just replaced the water pump, new 195* tstat, reinstalled original fan with new clutch and put on new factory hoses. The previous hoses were aftermarket, flimsy and lower didnít have a spring. Now temps stay under 210 hwy and city.

I canít say definitely the lower hose caving was the culprit, but doubt it was the electric fan or tstat. Maybe the water pump, but Iím leaning on the lower hose being the cause. Thoughts?
Modern hose materials are so much better now that the spring is really no longer needed. I searched far and wide looking for a lower hose with a spring in it until contacted two hose manufacturers (Gates and Goodyear) who both said the same thing, they no longer make them with springs.
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Old 09-11-2018, 01:01 AM   #20
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I took the spring out of my lower radiator hose and stick it in the new one. The spring was 19 years old and still in good shape when i swapped it over to the new hose.
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Old 09-11-2018, 05:25 AM   #21
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Modern hose materials are so much better now that the spring is really no longer needed. I searched far and wide looking for a lower hose with a spring in it until contacted two hose manufacturers (Gates and Goodyear) who both said the same thing, they no longer make them with springs.

This might be true, but only if you have a high quality replacement. The hoses I replaced were very old, blue and cheap looking. The oem I purchased was way thicker and obviously had a spring. I would still be skeptical if someone is having cooling issues at highway speeds and not running oem or quality lower hose.
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Old 09-25-2018, 10:36 PM   #22
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you have a bad fan clutch
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Old 08-24-2019, 05:47 PM   #23
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Flow Kooler high flow water pump installed with high flow thermostat housing and hood vents installed for 10+ years / 27k miles on our '03 4.0 liter auto trans with 35's and 4.88 gears. No cooling issues whatsoever.
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:25 PM   #24
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Last piece of the puzzle, I ended up purchasing and installing an AE2101 2 row 1" tube radiator. Since that I've embarked on a 1700 mile road trip thru the Smokey Mountains and lots of hwy driving at 75mph +. Low and behold, the temp never rose about the 205 to 208 range. All said and done, it was definitely the radiator that made the difference. Even though I've replaced the radiator twice in the last 5 years with the standard OEM model thinking that was the cause, it appears the larger flow unit worked in my case. As always, there is not a one size fits all solution for anything.

Glad it worked for ya! FWIW, I get my '98 flushed religiously every 2 years and I see significant rust every time. It's possible that you had a clogged radiator and maybe the higher flow rate will reduce your risk of future clogs.


I haven't seen the rust issue in newer vehicles with 5-year coolant, only in the '98.

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