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Old 06-15-2018, 02:51 PM
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1993 YJ info

I am looking to buy a YJ and it has several mods done(listed below). I’m not sure what I should be looking for when I go look at it and wondering if you all knew any price range would be a fair purchase price.

1993 Jeep Wrangler YJ
custom*full roll cage
4.5" lift kit
professional paint job
entire tub and frame*paint with Kevlar Bedliner
stereo system with*clarion metal cone speakers
Bestop*Supertop*installed with tinted windows and new doors
Bestop*console
euro style brake lights
brake light heavy duty guards
headlight and turn light guards
hi lift Jack
33”*super*swamper*tires with newly painted rims to match body
all new Moog front end suspension, new drag link, new tie rods
Rancho steering stabilizer
Rancho shocks
side*bars
painted*front brush guard to match body paint
valve cover
has a Dana 44 from a*tj*for front and a Ford 8.0*for rear on the axles
Bushwacker*cutout fender flares

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Old 06-15-2018, 02:52 PM
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Here is pic
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Old 06-15-2018, 04:36 PM   #3
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Price depends on more than a description and a pic.
Take the Jeep to a reliable 4X4 shop and pay to have it inspected ($100.00 to $200.00 depending on how comprehensive an inspection they do). Cheap insurance!
Check prices on Craigslist in your location for comps.
What you have listed sounds OK, but the bedliner on the frame could hide rust. Make sure the 4X4 shop checks closely for a rotted frame.

Let us know what you end up with.

Good Luck, L.M.
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"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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Old 06-15-2018, 05:39 PM   #4
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That's a lot of high dollar stuff on that jeep. I'm going to guess he wants 8k or more. If money isn't a problem, that's the rig you want to start off with.
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Old 06-15-2018, 06:07 PM   #5
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I would worry about the frame and body being covered in bedliner i would be wondering if he was trying to hide rust.

The ford 8.8 axles are a dime a dozen

The TJ front 44 is probbaly a expensive axle to buy but it's low pinion and has thin tubes it's not a real D44 even though it is marginally better than the D30.

The grill guard is cheesy and it still has the light duty factory front bumper.

I like the bestop supertop but the only real reason to run one on a jeep is if you have full doors which that jeep dont have.

The euro lights and custom painted wheels and valve cover is not a selling point. If the jeep is a legit rust free jeep and it is in mechanically good shape i would think it would be worth about 5-6K but i dont like the way it was built most of what he did has no value to me and i'd end up redoing it.
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Old 06-15-2018, 06:30 PM   #6
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What ratio are the axles? Unless they are 4:10 or lower they'll need re-gearing with the 33" tires. 4:10 is the absolute minimum, with 4:88 being ideal.
Re-gearing each axle can be expensive. Most home mechanics aren't prepared to do a re-gear job. Do some homework here.

What brand of lift does it have? It matters. Are those lift shackles?

Have you driven it yet? In the city and on the freeway?

A few more pictures and a bit more info might help us help you. How much $ is the seller asking? I'm sort of in agreement with agalloch07 as far as what's listed and the value. If it's been cobbled together it's worth a lot less than if it's been properly assembled. Again... Take it to a 4X4 shop and have then inspect for rust and how it runs out.

Good Luck, L.M.
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"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:38 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Luckymac View Post
What brand of lift does it have? It matters. Are those lift shackles?
They look like lift shackles to me. Makes you wonder how the rest of the lift was done.

EDIT: Also, bedliner on the frame makes me think the seller is trying to hide something.
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Old 06-16-2018, 09:56 AM
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I did drive it for about 5 miles, not on a highway just around the block. The steering was lose as hell, couldn’t barely keep it straight. As far as rust on the tub or frame there was very light on the frame and he says there was no rust on the tub (we have a history so I don’t believe he would lie to me). He is asking 6k from me. The axles and lift was on the Jeep when he bought it in 2010. The motor ran and look in great condition. Tires are dry rotting and need replaced. Also the odometer and speedometer aren’t working, it is showing 156k miles which is what it showed when he bought it in 2010.
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Old 06-16-2018, 11:33 AM   #9
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Have the seller put the top on and TAKE IT TO A 4X4 SHOP for evaluation.
You can easily drop a Grand or two getting the steering squared away. You don't seem to have enough experience to evaluate this purchase.

I think $6K is top dollar for a good running, good driving YJ with a decent interior and no major faults. With just one pic, it's impossible to make a realistic recommendation of what that particular Jeep might be worth.

Let us know what the shop finds and if you ultimately end up purchasing this Jeep.

Good Luck, L.M.
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"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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Old 06-16-2018, 11:35 AM
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All I have at the moment
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Old 06-16-2018, 11:36 AM
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Not ashamed to admit I have 0 experience to evaluate it lol
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Old 06-16-2018, 11:46 AM   #12
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Not ashamed to admit I have 0 experience to evaluate it lol
Me either. But this is what I appreciate about this forum: they're straight with you, and you'll learn a lot, without feeling stupid.
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Old 06-16-2018, 12:15 PM   #13
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Here's a couple things I see in the recently posted pics.

1- Aftermarket steering wheel..no horn button. Does the horn work?
2- No spare tire on the vehicle nor any way to mount one. Check out the Quadratec website for what a replacement rear bumper with the ability to support the oversize spare tire might cost. Is there even a spare?
3- Seat covers on aftermarket seats. What are the seats like under the covers like?
4- No rear seat belt on the left side.
5- Is the "full roll cage' attached to the frame or simply bolted to the tub?
6- Will the top go on over the roll cage?
7- Seller states all new Moog front end suspension, new drag link, new tie rods Rancho steering stabilizer....why was the steering "loose as hell, couldn't barely keep it straight"? the Lucky Mac BS meter jumped.

From my #6 post......
What ratio are the axles? Unless they are 4:10 or lower they'll need re-gearing with the 33" tires. 4:10 is the absolute minimum, with 4:88 being ideal.
Re-gearing each axle can be expensive. Most home mechanics aren't prepared to do a re-gear job. Do some homework here.

What brand of lift does it have? It matters. Are those lift shackles?

Have you driven it yet? In the city and on the freeway? If you drove it around the block and could hardly keep it straight, I wouldn't want to drive it on the freeway.

Get a quote from the shop to answer the above questions and make the vehicle safe and comfortable to drive. Then subtract that amount from the $6K.
I expect the seller will refuse the offer. That's OK. Let him find another fish.

Good Luck, L.M
__________________
"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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Old 06-17-2018, 08:52 AM   #14
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Price depends a LOT on your region. IMO you should start by seeing what an average, mostly or completely un-modified YJ with the 4.0l is running in your region (CL, FB Marketplace, ads, etc). Then you have a point-of-reference to work with (value).

Then, as others have stated, since you don't know much about jeeps...have it looked at by someone who really does. Looks to me like this person - who you say you can probably trust - doesn't know a lot either.

Personally, I would pay less than regional average value on a Jeep like that. Why? Because it's been modified on the cheap (shackle lift, poorly designed roll cage, sloppy steering). You are gonna need to invest time and $$ right away to get it right, just to be able to enjoy it. That makes it a bit of a mandatory project. That's ok if you don't mind it, but don't pay a price that doesn't reflect that it needs work.

That's my $.02.

Best of luck to you!

Pat
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Old 06-18-2018, 07:02 PM   #15
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While taking it to a 4x4 shop for evaluation is never a bad idea, I don't think this one is even worth doing that. Why?

First off, euro tail light guards and steering stabilizers should never be listed as selling points. Anybody who considers those to be selling points is probably low on the level of experience & knowledge it takes to build something properly. I'd bet the seller doesn't even know what ratios are in the axles. They are very likely 4.10 due to the Rubi front axle and the 8.8, but that doesn't mean much.

"valve cover"...what about it? Every Jeep comes with a nice valve cover right from the factory. I don't see why him putting a new one is a selling point either.

The "4.5" lift" is not 4.5". It is a spring over axle lift meaning the suspension leaf springs were moved from underneath the axle and mounted on top. This usually nets 5.5-6" of lift depending on the axle spring mounts used. The fact that he calls it 4.5" is another clue, because it's definitely not that.

All the light guards just reduce visibility for everybody else, they're unnecessary, and some of them even cause grounding issues if they aren't metal in places like the tail lights since they use the tail light bolts which are also the tail light grounding locations. Usually this isn't an issue, but sometimes it is since those holes like to corrode & rust.

I would remove the grille guard the day I bought the Jeep.

Who knows what the bedliner is hiding underneath & even a "professional" paint job can be a poor one. All professional means is someone paid someone else to do it; nothing about the actual quality of the paint comes from the word professional.

While it's not the worst I've ever seen, the poor drivability is already a known issue that you would want to fix that doesn't exactly make the Jeep desirable considering the other poor "mods" done to it. He even listed all new steering parts and it still drives poor?...that very likely means whoever set up the front axle for the spring over lift didn't set the caster right, which causes a very loose feeling in the steering once there is too much caster. That means you probably won't ever fix that looseness without paying someone else to cut and reweld the axle spring perches. Not exactly ideal for a Jeep you just purchased.

My take on this Jeep is that the owner doesn't know what he's doing, slapped a bunch of crappy mods on it, and is now suffering the results of not having a clue of what he's doing and is trying to sell his problem to someone else to take care of. I would not consider purchasing it for even a second.

I'd look for a solid condition 94-95 4.0 YJ or a 4.0 TJ. Keep posting them for evaluation, you're bound to find something acceptable eventually. You don't want to buy somebody else's problem. Good luck.
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Old 06-18-2018, 07:10 PM   #16
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That's a lot of high dollar stuff on that jeep. I'm going to guess he wants 8k or more. If money isn't a problem, that's the rig you want to start off with.
I'm sorry, but that could not be further from the truth. What it is, is a pile of parts bought from a catalog shopper who doesn't have the slightest clue of what he's doing to the big picture when he changes something.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:14 PM   #17
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DUH!! I missed the spring over lift.

I think BPritchard95 has the right of it for this buyer on this particular Jeep. The seller is in over his head and wants out because he doesn't know what to fix or how to fix it.

We don't know the location where TravAP might be titling it. Nobody's mentioned emission testing. There's no stickers on the windshield.

If I were looking for another Jeep and went to look at this one I'd take the value of one like it that's ready to go and subtract what it'd take to get it safe and reliable, less some extra for my trouble.

Not knowing what ratio the axles are and the condition of the underside I can't begin to guess what it might be worth. If those are 3:07 or 3:55 axles and the bedliner is hiding rust, it just might only have value as a part vehicle. In other words it might cost more to fix this one up than you can buy one for that doesn't need fixing.

The more I think about this I think BPritchard95's advice to pass on it and find a '94 or '95 YJ or early TJ is the best path for a novice.

Good Luck, L.M.

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"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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