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Old 03-10-2018, 05:11 PM
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3" Body Lift Removal

Getting my 1993 Jeep YJ trail ready was the intention of my first post. I've learned a lot about the Jeep since, the most questionable modification by a previous owner was a 3" body lift to fit 31" tires. It actually took me a long time to figure out it had a body lift even though staring me in the face, oh well live and learn.

Three things that I've learned about the negative effects of my 3" body lift:

Problems:
P1. Currently my radiator is barely held in with three bolts, should be six. Since the radiator is attached to the body and engine/fan stays with the frame the result of the lift causes a misalignment. The PO's solution was not pretty using a hack that might get the truck home but certainly not trail ready. Not sure how you all would solve the issue but my guess is removing the body lift will allow the radiator/fan shroud/engine fan to once again align as originally designed.
P2. The brake lines are pulled out of their factory frame brackets and rattle around with no support(mainly in the area between master cylinder to vehicle frame). I imagine the factory mounts are there for a reason so getting the brake lines back supported will decrease the odds of breaking a brake line on a trail someday.
P3. the "curtains" separating the engine bay from inner fender wells are flopping in the wind simply pulled out of their bottom attachment location, analogous to a kid wearing high-water pants. Not keeping me off trail necessarily but messy and unstylish.

Solutions:
S1. Remove body lift and correctly re-attach radiator, fan shroud, brake lines, to factory specs.
S2. 31" tires will no longer fit without a lift. Buy an used jeep alloy set of wheels that I can run until I learn more about how to do the correct lift/wheel/gearing calculation for my unique trail application.
S3. Test Jeep on the trail, and upgrade stock parts and add suspension lift as needed.

Questions:
Q1. Sounds like body lifts on Jeeps are a can-of-worms and they can cause undue stress to the mounting location, more trouble then they are worth. However I could be naive. Considering that I don't mind beginning from a stock rig if it gets me on the trail, should I replace 3" body lift with factory mounts? Or is there some technological advancement in after market body mounts that I should consider?
Q2. How to go cheap on a used set of wheels in SoCal? I thought it would be easy to find a set on craigslist from owners that did an upgrade but not finding much. Or they are 17" which I can't figure out if they work on my stock YJ?

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Old 03-10-2018, 05:36 PM   #2
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Here is my suggestion....
Phase one
Purchase a 1.25" body lift and swap it out... this will give you all the needed bolts... Also get a 1" motor mount lift (suggest zone) this will put your radiator and fan shroud in line with the engine....

You will likely be able to run your 31's on road and you will have a much more reasonable setup...
Phase two
Get 1.5 or 2.5" springs.... depending on your preference.
Then you'll be very comfortable wheeling 31 or 32" tires
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Old 03-10-2018, 06:30 PM   #3
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while I agree that body lifts should be removed, I would suggest before you do anything to the Jeep that you join a local jeep club and glean knowledge from the local guys as to the best way to set up your Jeep for the local trails
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Old 03-11-2018, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Gottagofast View Post
Here is my suggestion....
Phase one
Purchase a 1.25" body lift and swap it out... this will give you all the needed bolts... Also get a 1" motor mount lift (suggest zone) this will put your radiator and fan shroud in line with the engine....

You will likely be able to run your 31's on road and you will have a much more reasonable setup...
Phase two
Get 1.5 or 2.5" springs.... depending on your preference.
Then you'll be very comfortable wheeling 31 or 32" tires
Thanks for the suggestion. If a 1" engine lift solves the issue while proven not to introduce driveline problems I'd consider it. Part of my thinking is I want to start over with a clean slate. But I can see the wisdom in not going back completely stock, just to build it back up.
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Old 03-11-2018, 11:14 AM
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while I agree that body lifts should be removed, I would suggest before you do anything to the Jeep that you join a local jeep club and glean knowledge from the local guys as to the best way to set up your Jeep for the local trails
I figured looking into clubs was step 2 after making the required fixes. But I guess no harm in exploring beforehand.
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Old 03-11-2018, 12:54 PM   #6
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If the motor mount lift does cause you vibes due to using it w stock suspension you can easily fix w wedges between axle and springs OR you can get a new skidplate that raises the trans an inch thus gaining ground clearance if you prefer....

Personally tho I'd do a 2 1/2" susp lift at the same time
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Old 03-11-2018, 10:59 PM   #7
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I figured looking into clubs was step 2 after making the required fixes. But I guess no harm in exploring beforehand.
by getting involved with a club first, you may make contact with other members of the club who will have parts you need just sitting around waiting to be used...some guys are always upgrading, and when they do, they sell the stuff they take off of their Jeeps cheep

by talking to members who have actually wheeled at your location they can help guide you in what parts you will actually need to replace on your Jeep
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:34 PM
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Thanks Gottagofast and Cracked. Good advice. I found the same 3" body lift being sold online so I now have installation instructions I can reverse, Not sure why the PO neglected to install the radiator bracket kit, guess he was in a hurry to show off them new wheels.
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Old 03-14-2018, 08:10 PM   #9
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ive got a 2" BL I'm looking to lose and figured I would need shorter bolts at all of the points where it's brought back down. is this the case? proly a good time to swap out all the old, tired rubber body to frame bushings while we're at it.

also rear in addition to some of the notes above a 2-3" BL requires some of the steering linkage that may too need to be addressed.

no highjack intended, hope my points are relevant.

t
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Old 03-14-2018, 08:42 PM   #10
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Look at your mounts before deciding to replace them.. mine at 260,000 miles are still in great shape...

Whatever you do don't even think about getting poly unless you want to get a feel for the date code on the dime you run over in the road...

Yes all of the bolts need replaced and if you choose to swap to a more reasonable 1.25" body lift the new bolts will come with it
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TJ dash speakers that actually rock! Kicker sub and amp in center console
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Old 03-16-2018, 12:36 AM
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Look at your mounts before deciding to replace them.. mine at 260,000 miles are still in great shape...

Whatever you do don't even think about getting poly unless you want to get a feel for the date code on the dime you run over in the road...

Yes all of the bolts need replaced and if you choose to swap to a more reasonable 1.25" body lift the new bolts will come with it
Definitely do not want a stiffer ride than I have already! It looks like the 3"BL I have fits over the OEM body mounts. My frugal side wants to cut the 3" "pucks" down to size but not sure that is a great idea. Assuming my OEM mounts are good, how do you suggest achieving 1.25" BL? What material are your "pucks" made of?
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Old 03-16-2018, 01:16 AM   #12
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Buy a 1.25" kit.... it's WORTH it....

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Wrangler...AAAOxybLpRgMxr
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TJ dash speakers that actually rock! Kicker sub and amp in center console
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Old 03-16-2018, 06:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeptotheBeach View Post
Definitely do not want a stiffer ride than I have already! It looks like the 3"BL I have fits over the OEM body mounts. My frugal side wants to cut the 3" "pucks" down to size but not sure that is a great idea. Assuming my OEM mounts are good, how do you suggest achieving 1.25" BL? What material are your "pucks" made of?
I would think a band saw with a fence should be able to do the job. My pucks are some sort of plastic and if yours are too, just run the bannd saw at its slowest speed.
Then, with a 1 1/2" engine lift you should be able to replace your radiator hardware back to stock configuration.

Simply remove one of the current body mount bolts and buy 11 of them 1 1/2" shorter.

With a 3" bl, you might want to look at what the PO (previous owner) did in regard to the fuel filler hoses. I had to extend mine when I installed a 2" B.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 03-18-2018, 10:17 AM   #14
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Exclamation

I would use a daystar 1in body lift ( comes with all new hardware) 2 1/2 suspenseon lift and 33s 4:10 gears you would be very surprised look at my avatar
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Old 03-18-2018, 06:34 PM   #15
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I was able to thin down the old 2"T. hard rubber pucks today on my band saw. Total of 6 big pucks and 5 smaller ones. I cut them all to approx. 1-1/8" T.
I had previously removed the 2" body lift pucks this past summer and installed a new Crown body mount original kit and had a heck of a time getting most of the old body mount bolts out, but replaced with new greased grade 8 bolts so shouldn't be near as hard to re-install these old cut down pucks.
I'm not in a big hurry to do this right now, but happy to see the old pucks cut down just fine. Soaking them in Royal Purple over nite to clean 'em up.
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Old 03-19-2018, 01:13 AM   #16
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Daystar would be the poly mounts.... rubber dampens shock and vibration.... poly not so much
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Old 03-19-2018, 10:56 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by JeeptotheBeach View Post
Definitely do not want a stiffer ride than I have already! It looks like the 3"BL I have fits over the OEM body mounts. My frugal side wants to cut the 3" "pucks" down to size but not sure that is a great idea. Assuming my OEM mounts are good, how do you suggest achieving 1.25" BL? What material are your "pucks" made of?
Do you have a buddy with a metal lathe? It's a simple process to part them off to any desired length.
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Old 03-22-2018, 01:52 AM
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I would think a band saw with a fence should be able to do the job. My pucks are some sort of plastic and if yours are too, just run the bannd saw at its slowest speed.
Then, with a 1 1/2" engine lift you should be able to replace your radiator hardware back to stock configuration.

Simply remove one of the current body mount bolts and buy 11 of them 1 1/2" shorter.

With a 3" bl, you might want to look at what the PO (previous owner) did in regard to the fuel filler hoses. I had to extend mine when I installed a 2" B.

Good Luck, L.M.
Great advice! No band saw out here in SoCal at my disposal. I'd have to come up with some sort of jig to accurately cut them down with a hacksaw. Cheap plastic manual miter box might work for this. I could use half of the puck for the Jeep and the other half to work on my slap-shot.

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Originally Posted by banjotx View Post
I was able to thin down the old 2"T. hard rubber pucks today on my band saw. Total of 6 big pucks and 5 smaller ones. I cut them all to approx. 1-1/8" T.
I had previously removed the 2" body lift pucks this past summer and installed a new Crown body mount original kit and had a heck of a time getting most of the old body mount bolts out, but replaced with new greased grade 8 bolts so shouldn't be near as hard to re-install these old cut down pucks.
I'm not in a big hurry to do this right now, but happy to see the old pucks cut down just fine. Soaking them in Royal Purple over nite to clean 'em up.
My original body mounts look halfway decent. Some light superficial cracking, nothing too deep or crusty looking. I'd like to take the BL off and drive up and down the road a few times just to get a feel. Looks like the BL sweet spot is between 1"-2". Thanks for the response. I've seen royal purple and tried simple green.

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Originally Posted by Gottagofast View Post
Buy a 1.25" kit.... it's WORTH it....
Yep got my eye on that. Thanks!

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Originally Posted by hsracer201 View Post
Do you have a buddy with a metal lathe? It's a simple process to part them off to any desired length.
Not yet, however owning a Jeep opens all sorts of doors I'm learning.

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Originally Posted by Decoy_58 View Post
I would use a daystar 1in body lift ( comes with all new hardware) 2 1/2 suspenseon lift and 33s 4:10 gears you would be very surprised look at my avatar
Trust me I'm drooling a bit...





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Old 03-27-2018, 02:17 PM   #19
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Let me add a thought or two...

I switched my sons Jeep to poly mounts (Daystar 1" lifts) with no ill effects on ride. NONE. I would agree with the theory that rubber mounts should ride better but the daystar lift with new mounts is about the same price as a set of pucks and then you would have to buy mounts unless yours are still in good condition which mine were not.

I would consider Brown Dog 1" motor mount lifts. They are close in price and quite a bit nicer than anything else on the market. (I did go with the rubber ones because I do agree with the theory that they should transfer less vibes)

A set of heavy duty shackles are going to be needed eventually, will add a little lift and are pretty cheap. You could add them now to clear your 31s off road and if you decide to lift more later they will work with your new lift. One of my YJs has "boomerang" shackles one does not. I prefer the boomerangs but have no factual bases for that.
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Old 03-28-2018, 09:52 PM   #20
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I didn't notice any difference in the ride from the JKS 1 1/4" poly lift I ran for a month while I waited for my MC fenders to come in..but I had just installed new rubber mounts a couple of months before that, so didn't expect any,...I don't like the look of body lifts, so I took it back out anyway
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Old 03-29-2018, 12:32 AM   #21
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I am running energy suspension poly body mounts and poly JKS 1.25" body lift. It's been on my jeep for so long that i don't even remember if it effected vibration or harshness but it probably did.

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