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Old 04-07-2011, 05:48 PM
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35s???

Ok so I have a 1995 yj 2.5 liter with 4" suspension lift currently running 33x12.50x15 on 15x8 rims... I'm regearing from stock 4:10 to 4:88 before the end of summer because next year I want to go to 35x14.50x17 question one is how wide of a rim do I need for 14.50 can I run them on a 17x10? Question 2 is I want to do a 1" bl to get the clearance to run them... What else besides the body lift do I need? It's a 4" rough country lift that was put on by the PO so I dont know too much about it.

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Old 04-07-2011, 06:57 PM   #2
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Have you upgraded the rear axle at all,or will you be doing that as well? Also consider steering upgrades, and brake upgrades.

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Old 04-07-2011, 07:01 PM   #3
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Can't help with anything but ?1. But it seems to me that a 14.5 on a 10" wheel is no different than a 12.5 on an 8" wheel.... So, I don't know why it wouldn't work.
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:07 PM
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I'm going to 4:88 all the way around before the end of this summer but probably not going to go to 35s until next spring... So the rears will be upgraded... As far as brakes and steering does anyone have any specific recommendations? And, infernogirl, I agree with you but just wasn't sure if there was something that is more appropriate sizing?
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:11 PM   #5
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You still have a stock dana 35 in the back... You should upgrade to a d44 or 8.8
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:19 PM
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So obviously I should do that prior to regearing?
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:19 PM
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And what does that do?
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:23 PM   #8
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What he's saying is there's no point in spending the $ to regear a D35, which is not really suited to 35" tires. Get a D44 (or stronger axle) and regear it... D35's will fail at some point when paired with 35" tires. And brakes must be upgraded as well, due to the larger rolling mass....
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:26 PM   #9
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Yea u don't wanna regear before you get a new axel. A lot of people end up swapping the rear with the gears they want...4.88. Then you still need to regear the front to 4.88. You can run the front and back with different sizes but can't use 4x4 till there both the same. So if money is an issue u can break it up into stages and still be able to drive.

Why axel swap? The bigger tires will put a lot more strain on your axel and you will most likely break the stock axel.
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:29 PM
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I understand the gears now, thanks to the forum, but I don't get the difference between a Dana 35 and 44 I understand that I should get the Dana 45 and then do a regear all the way around to 4:88 but I guess I don't understand all the components of a rear... I guess I thought the gears were the only difference. I totally understand why to upgrade brakes I was asking more specifically if there was a suggestion as to what to upgrade to from stock.
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:30 PM
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Lol I think you beat me... So the Dana 44 is the axle not the rear?
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:33 PM   #12
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Lol I think you beat me... So the Dana 44 is the axle not the rear?
Its the axel housing, shaft, and gears. It's bigger and stronger. Just to give you an idea the regular wranglers came with the d35 while the rudi came with d44.
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:37 PM   #13
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The shafts are d44 30 spline vs 27 of dana 35.(more splines is better) The dana 35 is also a clip axle, which means it has a c-clip holding the axle shaft in and if it breaks the entire shaft will come out of the tube. The dana 44 will not. You can also look into a ford 8.8 from a 95 or newer explorer, they have 31 spline shafts, and disc brakes.
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:40 PM
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So should I do Dana 44 front and rear or does that not matter just the gears need to match? And I should say thanks you guys are awesome with all the answers! I really appreciate it! I would've been pissed if I spent all that money regearing just to f up and axle
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:41 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by M_McQuade
So should I do Dana 44 front and rear or does that not matter just the gears need to match? And I should say thanks you guys are awesome with all the answers! I really appreciate it! I would've been pissed if I spent all that money regearing just to f up and axle
Only the gears need to match
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:44 PM
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So should I look around for a dana 44 with 4:88 already done or would it just make more sense to get any 44 axle and regear them both and what would I expect to pay for a d44 or 8.8? Any round about numbers would be great
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:50 PM   #17
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So should I look around for a dana 44 with 4:88 already done or would it just make more sense to get any 44 axle and regear them both and what would I expect to pay for a d44 or 8.8? Any round about numbers would be great
I don't know much about the d44. But if u decide to go the 8.8 route. Here is a great site http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html . You won't find a 8.8 with 4.88 so u would have to regear it.
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:53 PM   #18
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Your front dana 30 will be okay with 35's for a while, You can upgrade just the shafts and run 35's. For the rear if you can find one a dana 44 out of 87 or 88 xj cherokee would be okay, keep in mind you will have to weld on new spring hangers etc. The ford 8.8 will also need work done too. If you have a shop build the axle figure $1500-$2000 for the rear axle. There is also a super 35 kit, by superior axle and gear, which runs about 1k you can get that has bigger 30 spline shafts and a locker. However you are still left with the weak housing and tubes of the stock dana 35. Thus, lots to think about and consider in the build.
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:02 PM   #19
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So should I look around for a dana 44 with 4:88 already done or would it just make more sense to get any 44 axle and regear them both and what would I expect to pay for a d44 or 8.8? Any round about numbers would be great
Now do you understand why I am going with a 8.8. I payed $250 for mine that came with 4.10 and a posi. As for the Dana 30 in the front I have not heard to much (as far as bad things) with them.you cam add another $150-200 for new brackets and yoke. Then is the labor of cutting off old and setting up the new
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:12 PM
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Lol I don't understand a damn thing!!! Put me underwater and have me turn some bolts and I'm good! Haha... No seriously I think I'm starting to get it and It seems like this is much bigger undertaking to get 2" of tire in either direction... As you (Barry) know I'm running 33x12.50x15 now so how about if I just regear to 4:56 and call it a day? do any of you recommend a new axle in the rear for 33s? I've had these on for only like 4 weeks now but I do feel a fairly substantial power loss coming from 31x10.50s and I'd like some of that power back. Keep in mind this is my daily driver I haven't gone offroading yet but I intend to as often as possible which may be once a month or so if I'm lucky. I wasn't even planning on lockers but maybe that will be an upgrade I'll consider instead of going to 35s
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:24 PM   #21
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35s are a big commitment on a wrangler..before i got mine i wanted 35s but i decided it was too much work..then when i thought to buy the 33s i said f* it and went 35s. ive been gathering parts and doing work since december and im still not close to being finished. from brake lines to shackles to steering components to brakes etc it never ends..

if you really want the 35s go for it but dont take shortcuts or youll end up regretting it.
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Old 04-08-2011, 07:38 AM   #22
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If you can find a D44 or an 8.8, it would always be a better choice than the D35 for 33's.... Stronger is never a bad choice Lots of folks break D35's with 33's too, it's just a lot more likely to happen with 35's.
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Old 04-08-2011, 08:19 AM
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Yeah that makes sense but think this is one of those situations where I should leave well enough alone, I'll regear to regain some power since she's my DD anyway to 4:56 and call it a day for now. Can I still have a lot of fun offroad without lockers or is it going to make a huge difference? I'm probably going to look into quick disconnects for my sway bars next
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Old 04-08-2011, 08:41 AM   #24
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You can still have plenty of fun offroad open. Lockers just make it easier (kinda like cheating)
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Old 04-08-2011, 08:46 AM
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Oh no! my wife said I have to stop cheating
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Old 04-09-2011, 08:13 AM   #26
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haha, I like that
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:42 PM   #27
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I agree on the 8.8 regardless of tire size. , if you know someone who can weld.. you can get an 8.8 on the cheap.. Around here they go for $90 w/posi and disc brakes. Not sure for SUA but the perches and shock mounts might need to be moved and welded back on. Might as well weld the tubes to the diff housing too while you're at it.
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Old 04-09-2011, 08:59 PM   #28
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well ive read this, i understand all of it and wanted to ask a question if you guys dont mind me interrupting. i just bought my 88 wrangler, and it has 35x13.50x15 with 10in rims on it. in my younger days the lifted up mudding thing would have been up my alley, however i really dont know if the guy who lifted my jeep before i got it did any of this stuff to keep it from tearing something up.
i really like the rims ( the style ) and would like to keep them so im thinking of trying to maybe go down to a 31x10.50 but dont know if they will work on the 10 in rims and if i do would that keep me from tearing something up or should i just go back to stock and remove lift kit. i dont care a thing in the world about trail riding and i sure as heck aint going to replace a bunch of gears and stuff that aint broken

or you can tell me im confusing and ill try to re-ask some other way, lol
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Old 04-09-2011, 09:09 PM
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I don't know If you'll be able to find 31's to put on those rims, I haven't seen 31x12.50s much and you need at least a 12.50 for a 10" rim to hold a bead. 33s you could and that definitely would make a difference for you 33x12.50 would go on a 10" wide rim especially if you dont have any offroad plans and you could get away with not regearing depending on the gears you currently have but if you're running 35s now you will feel an increase in power with 33s and would put less strain on them
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Old 04-09-2011, 09:19 PM
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Also going down to 31s with a lift that fits 35s may make you top heavy and look kind of silly IMO so depending on the lift, is it 6" suspension, 4" suspension 1" body or any other of 100 combinations to fit 35s you may or may not be able to adjust the lift but I've read that you can see what kind of gears you have by jacking the jeep up and seeing how many times the drive shaft turns with 1 full revolution of the tire. So you may be able to see if he did it "right" that way. How is your highway driving now?

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