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Old 04-30-2015, 11:00 PM
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35's on stock axles??

Heard running 35's on stock axles can bring up some unwanted problems, anybody have experience with this?

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Old 05-01-2015, 12:08 AM   #2
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The front Dana 30 can handle 35s pretty well. The rear Dana 35 can't. It's pretty much maxed out with 33s.

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Old 05-01-2015, 07:01 AM   #3
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This jeep has been running 35s on the stock axles for almost 15 years. The front is untouched aside from gears, but the rear does have hardened shafts and an ARB. Thinking back, I think aside from a couple u-joints, only one of the front shafts has ever broke. And the jeep sees Moab 2-3 times a year and a lot of local wheeling spots.

Not saying this is a common run of luck with the stock 30/35s, but they've been very good to me so far.
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Old 05-01-2015, 11:42 AM   #4
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A lot of it is in how you drive. If you use your head and stay out of the skinny pedal when you are in places where binding can occur the turdy five might live a long time. I have heard of guys breaking them on the street with stock tires.
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Old 05-01-2015, 01:44 PM   #5
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Can't compare a D35 with hardened shafts to a stock axle, but even with hardened shafts the R&P are pretty small for 35's. Can it be done? I guess with careful driving it's possible, but my D35 started chewing the ring gear within a couple of months of going to 35" tires, and that was just on the street as I refused to take it off road till I had the 8.8 in.
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Old 05-01-2015, 03:59 PM   #6
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I have chromoly shafts with 33's and intend to give it a shot with 35's. $200 for chromoly shafts was a lot cheaper than any other option. Your are easily looking at $1k just upgrading to an 8.8. Axle, hardware, gears, driveline modificatioins or adapter, locker/limited sleep to replace weak carrier if you choose. IMHO
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Old 05-01-2015, 05:14 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Brokejeepnut View Post
I have chromoly shafts with 33's and intend to give it a shot with 35's. $200 for chromoly shafts was a lot cheaper than any other option. Your are easily looking at $1k just upgrading to an 8.8. Axle, hardware, gears, driveline modificatioins or adapter, locker/limited sleep to replace weak carrier if you choose. IMHO
My 8.8 swap was around $500, including a new driveshaft, seals, bearings, perches, shock mounts, and brakes.
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Old 05-01-2015, 08:20 PM
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Thank you all for the input and with it being as much of a gamble, I think I'll just go with 33's for now with stock axles. See what happens after I get a bit more cash and get out of high school.
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:40 PM   #9
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Good choice based on the fact your a student. There will be many years to build it bigger.
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Old 05-02-2015, 09:44 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by reno92 View Post
Can't compare a D35 with hardened shafts to a stock axle, but even with hardened shafts the R&P are pretty small for 35's. Can it be done? I guess with careful driving it's possible, but my D35 started chewing the ring gear within a couple of months of going to 35" tires, and that was just on the street as I refused to take it off road till I had the 8.8 in.
Perhaps. I think there is a lot more to the equation than tire size or whether I drive carefully. In fact, depending on tire brand and make, there is sometimes as little as one pound of difference between a 33 and a 35" tire (even though there are a few other forces at work here, lets stick to the most relevent one of tire weight) Now sometimes I've seen the weight difference around 7 pounds. Keep in mind that this is going from the same brand; one size larger. An example is that a 33" BFG all terrain is 53lbs. Stepping up to a 35" all terrain only adds a tad over one pound per tire. Where as a General kevlar comes in a 69lbs for a 33 and 74lbs for a 35. So going from a 33" BFG at 53lbs, to a General kevlar 35" tire at 74lbs is where I think you would see more issues. Or take a few 33" tires weighing in at nearly 70lbs.

I guess the point of my post is that tire size is only one aspect of where the problems start and tire weight may in fact be of more concern to the axle/axle shaft/ring and pinion weakness and the subsequent forces exerted over saying any particular height is where expensive upgrades should be made. This could happen at any size tire depending on height, weight, gearing and/or driver habits. This may be why I've had such great luck with not only this jeep, but the previous ones I've built with the 30/35 combo that have been crawled extensively. I'm more than ready to swap axles on this one, but so far there has been no need

I think getting older and wiser with the gas pedal helps as well
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Old 05-02-2015, 11:23 AM   #11
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It's actually much more than wieght, it's diameter (size). Getting a larger diameter tire to begin turning is like getting it turning in a higher gear. In your stock jeep take off in first gear and you will notice the tires start turning easily, try taking off in 2nd or third and you'll notice it takes more power and clutch slipping, more stress on all the drivetrain. That's why we change to lower gears for larger tires, larger tires are like putting in higher gears so we have to put in lower gears to try and match what we had stock.
Which takes us back to the one more weak area stronger shafts won't help, the R&P. The added stress on the stock gears to get things turning can chew them up pretty easy, go to proper gears and the already small R&P get smaller (and weaker) to add the extra teeth.
I'm old too, I managed to keep my D35 turning for over 200,000 miles with 32" tires and no locker. I wouldn't try a D35 with a locker and 35's but that's just me, your experience has been different.
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Old 05-03-2015, 02:44 AM   #12
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I just bought my YJ with 35's, it is running a stock D30 and an 8.8 with 4.10's F&R. I'm hesitant to take it offroad until I can at least get a limited slip (not sure of which one) in the rear but I'm not sure about putting anything up front. I need to do more research.
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Old 05-03-2015, 07:30 AM   #13
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I just bought my YJ with 35's, it is running a stock D30 and an 8.8 with 4.10's F&R. I'm hesitant to take it offroad until I can at least get a limited slip (not sure of which one) in the rear but I'm not sure about putting anything up front. I need to do more research.
You're fine. I wouldn't worry, just take it easy and learn the jeep. You sidestepped every concern from this thread with the 8.8 in the rear. A limited slip or locker isn't going to strengthen anything per se in the diff
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Old 05-03-2015, 09:46 PM   #14
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You're fine. I wouldn't worry, just take it easy and learn the jeep. You sidestepped every concern from this thread with the 8.8 in the rear. A limited slip or locker isn't going to strengthen anything per se in the diff
X2. Just know your limit.
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Old 09-21-2015, 11:18 AM   #15
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It's actually much more than wieght, it's diameter (size). Getting a larger diameter tire to begin turning is like getting it turning in a higher gear. In your stock jeep take off in first gear and you will notice the tires start turning easily, try taking off in 2nd or third and you'll notice it takes more power and clutch slipping, more stress on all the drivetrain. That's why we change to lower gears for larger tires, larger tires are like putting in higher gears so we have to put in lower gears to try and match what we had stock.
Which takes us back to the one more weak area stronger shafts won't help, the R&P. The added stress on the stock gears to get things turning can chew them up pretty easy, go to proper gears and the already small R&P get smaller (and weaker) to add the extra teeth.
I'm old too, I managed to keep my D35 turning for over 200,000 miles with 32" tires and no locker. I wouldn't try a D35 with a locker and 35's but that's just me, your experience has been different.
I giggled yesterday thinking of your post from months ago. over 15 years on 35s, about 25 Moab runs, hunting, fishing, guys trips and everything else, I finally broke a shaft yesterday. Ring and pinion are still fine... I would rather have grenaded the ring and pinion as the broken shaft made a long day dragging it out from the mesa. Wasn't spinning tires or beating on it. It just started to crawl up a small 2' legde and bang... The day got interesting. A little winching and some dragging got her to a trailer.

Probably will be doing an 8.8 swap this winter

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Old 09-21-2015, 06:47 PM   #16
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I giggled yesterday thinking of your post from months ago. over 15 years on 35s, about 25 Moab runs, hunting, fishing, guys trips and everything else, I finally broke a shaft yesterday. Ring and pinion are still fine... I would rather have grenaded the ring and pinion as the broken shaft made a long day dragging it out from the mesa. Wasn't spinning tires or beating on it. It just started to crawl up a small 2' legde and bang... The day got interesting. A little winching and some dragging got her to a trailer.

Probably will be doing an 8.8 swap this winter
Karma. But I just tell people. Respect that Lil d35. Beat on anything you better upgrade
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Old 09-21-2015, 07:05 PM   #17
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I've been planning a 8.8 swap for a lot of years, knock on wood but my 25 yr old stock axals n gears are still getting it on 33s

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Old 09-21-2015, 07:14 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by zZ Hop View Post
I giggled yesterday thinking of your post from months ago. over 15 years on 35s, about 25 Moab runs, hunting, fishing, guys trips and everything else, I finally broke a shaft yesterday. Ring and pinion are still fine... I would rather have grenaded the ring and pinion as the broken shaft made a long day dragging it out from the mesa. Wasn't spinning tires or beating on it. It just started to crawl up a small 2' legde and bang... The day got interesting. A little winching and some dragging got her to a trailer.

Probably will be doing an 8.8 swap this winter

Well, I'm not going to say told you so. Anybody that got that many miles on a D35 running 35's doesn't need me to tell them how to wheel.

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