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Old 07-23-2015, 03:23 PM
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Question 87 YJ - New To me Lots of questions HELP!

Hello All!

So, I picked up a YJ in a trade. I know 0 about it other than it has the motor, & trans out of an 89 XJ in it, it sits on 35s has been SOA, and it needs some shocks and quite possibly some new front leafs (they bottom leaf is warped on both) It has a 10 gal fuel cell. I do need to get more pictures of it.

I plan on putting at the start probably $1000 into it. But I need to know where I should put my focus.

My Needs: A driver, I don't need a trail rig. I wouldn't mind being able to take it to the local off roads here which are nothing difficult. (Called The Richlands, Richland Rd. or Sampson Rd. maybe you've heard of it?) I guess the 35s can stay, a little high for me and am strongly considering selling them and getting 33s. I was told it is setting on stock axles with stock gears.

Problems? yeah you bet.. Its VERY bouncy one of the body mounts has rusted off. Has other rust in the tub. I want to pull the tub and try to repair the bottom of it.

It doesn't accelerate at all. has no power, i mean seriously it can't even pull an incline. Motor does run pretty good at idle, but when you shut it off and crank it back it backfires big time. I plan on checking fuel pressure and going from there. No clue what Kind of pump this thing has. Previous owner said it needed a "tune up and the gas is dead" Oh yeah, also it doesn't stop - well actually it does because it doesn't roll very well - but there aren't brakes that we can speak of.

Steering seems to bind at full turn. Again, I need to snap more pics so maybe someone can see whats up there.

Me? I don't have much help. No: welder or fab skills, no torches, no air tools or lift. Plenty of hand tools and willingness. I've never re geared anything. But again, I'm willing to do it.

Plans? Well first and foremost I want to get it to accelerate and when you have the gas pedal on the floor I would like to see it climb at least that small hill out in front of my house. (its paved btw) I would LOVE to put a ford 8.8 in the rear, and I guess if I keep the 35s I would go with 4.56s? If i go with 33s something smaller?

Long term? I'd love to trade the jeep for a sand rail or dune buggy!

This is about the only picture I have of it, except I did find pictures of where the original owner built it. I have a PM in to him to see what he can tell me about it. (nc4x4.com)



I am very thankful for any help!

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Old 07-23-2015, 07:32 PM   #2
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What engine (4 or 6)?
What transmission (manual or auto)?
Unless you really want to drive it as is to know more about what you have I would start by pulling the tub off to determine how much rust needs to be repaired. Frame section replacement is common but requires welding.

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Old 07-23-2015, 07:47 PM   #3
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Sounds to me like a l4 with an auto, and that's your main problem...
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:54 PM   #4
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No way it's a four banger with 35's my guess is a six cl (since they didn't make I4 autos until '94, but I guess that was for YJ's and not XJ's).

If you go with smaller tires though it would probably help your accel.
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:52 PM
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Sorry,

It has all the running gear out of a 89 Cherokee - 4.0 AW4. Has floor shifter I guess out of the cherokee.

I think I found most of the acceleration problem. The throttle cable is broken where the spring is inside of the plastic where the throttle cable mounts onto the side of the intake. I was able to move the throttle on the throttle body and the motor finally came to life. - I pulled the spring tighter and what do you know I was able to go up that hill - still very slowly though.

One thing I'd love to know, do I really need this?





It's some type of 3 link mechanism that appears to be welded to the rear axle? But I have leaf springs and two shocks?

Here are some pictures of some of the rust:








Does this look like I have the stock rear Leafs?






Other random pictures that I took while on the side of the road out of gas....:





Not great photos. But can take more.
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:56 PM
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I also think I found out why it was backfiring - it was out of gas...
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:34 PM   #7
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Those are not stock leaf springs, or at least not stock mounting locations on the rear. It appears there is a bracket added to the back of the frame then a boom shackle was added to move the rear of the spring farther back.

I am not familiar with the Cherokee but it is possible that he took the whole drive train and located the rear axle where it needed to be. The third link seems like it would have been set up for coil overs rather than leaf springs.

Sounds like a bit of a Frankenstein project. Without the background from the previous owner it could be tough to decide what was done or even what parts you have.
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:43 PM
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Well, I'm about 95% certain I'm going to go with an 8.8 rear. Local pic-a-part shows to have about 10 explorers on the lot ranging from 95-2000. I still have to figure out the mounts for it, and try to either get things together to rebuilt the axle myself, or find someone to do it for me. - At that time, that funky ladder bar is being removed.
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Old 07-24-2015, 12:51 AM   #9
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The bar welded to the rear axle is an anti wrap/traction bar. Prevents wheel hop and damage to your leaf springs from axle wrap. By your photo it looks as though the front shackle is going down to the bar and normally they are the other way so they are under tension.
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Old 07-24-2015, 01:34 AM
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Thanks Cody, by giving it a name I had something to search upon. I found on google images 90% of those bars indeed have been mounted with the front shackle up.. - Is this bar even needed though?
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Old 07-24-2015, 07:05 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by ARKSoft View Post
Thanks Cody,- Is this bar even needed though?
Maybe, maybe not. More depends on how hard your going to drive it. I've seen some Jeeps accelerate from a dead stop and have the axle wrap far enough to bind the ujoint and break it. Check the length of your spring perches, if they are about 7-7.5" long you'll probably be o.k. if you remove the track bar. But no guarantee.
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Old 07-27-2015, 12:34 PM   #12
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It is my understanding that a traction bar of some kind is typically needed for SOA. I am not sure if the longer XJ rear springs help or hurt with axle wrap. I would have to think it was put there for a reason though, so you probably need it.
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Old 07-27-2015, 10:57 PM
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Thank you all for the advice. I'm going to leave the suspension as is for now. I've been working on it for the past couple of days and have discovered that the motor is running extremely rich. This isn't really the direction I wanted to go anyway so I'm going to be pulling out the old 4.0 and replacing it with a 5.3 or a 350. Not sure which way I'll go and money will probably be the biggest factor. At this point I'm looking up transfer case options and deciding what I want to do with the bottom of the tub.

Plans:

Remove old running gear, and sale it.
Remove Tub
Repair bottom of tub - OR get a new tub if I can find one close enough to me for a good enough deal
Go over the frame with a magnifying glass repair everything
Get the motor mounts welded in place, and any other mounts (transmission transfer case)
Do a rust/corrosion treatment on the frame
Put the Tub back on (depending on which way I go with the Tub, I may or may not need a new windshield (all of it not just the glass))
Then do the wiring...

Time line, after I find the donor motor/trans/case - eh 30 days to 6 months... whichever comes first.
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Old 07-31-2015, 11:03 AM
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Ok...

So I'm going to have to put my plans on hold for just a little bit. I'm constantly looking - haven't found anything but a 305 for $600... , at this time I'd like to figure out why the I6 is drinking fuel.

So I'm going to post on the tech side of the forum now, and see what all I can learn about this motor.

Thanks everyone.

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