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Old 12-13-2017, 06:58 AM   #61
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OK - Link works now.

OK, had one headlight go out on me the other morning while on the way to work. I made sure to pick up a pair of new bulbs this last weekend while out on the town. I bought the standard Sylvania H6054 halogens for $8.88 each at Walmart. While that's not too bad, it did get me to thinking - and we all know what happens when a Jeep owner gets to thinking.....

Anyway, even with my headlights perfectly adjusted, and new bulbs, it still isn't as "illuminating" as our JK, Chrysler 300, Ram 2500 or even the motor home for that matter. I will admit that the brand new headlights are a bit brighter than the however-old ones that were on the rig - and tons brighter than the burned out bulb - but I guess that goes without sayin'.

Anyway, for about $55 I can upgrade to LED direct bolt-in replacements.

LINKY

So, anyone have any recent experience with this type of upgrade? The reviews are generally positive, and most rave about how much brighter the LED lamps sets are. It also appears to come with the anti-flicker harness already installed. Since the YJ's are still hardwired in the old fashioned way (vice powered up through the TIPM) I probably won't need that. But, I do know that I may have one of the rectifier diodes shot in my alternator (reading about 27 VAC battery positive to frame). Any stray AC should be blocked by the harness.

I'm open to suggestions. I know that probably spending more might get better lights, but I don't want to go much more than what I've found above.

Thanks!

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Old 12-13-2017, 02:08 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DryCreek View Post
OK, had one headlight go out on me the other morning while on the way to work. I made sure to pick up a pair of new bulbs this last weekend while out on the town. I bought the standard Sylvania H6054 halogens for $8.88 each at Walmart. While that's not too bad, it did get me to thinking - and we all know what happens when a Jeep owner gets to thinking.....

Anyway, even with my headlights perfectly adjusted, and new bulbs, it still isn't as "illuminating" as our JK, Chrysler 300, Ram 2500 or even the motor home for that matter. I will admit that the brand new headlights are a bit brighter than the however-old ones that were on the rig - and tons brighter than the burned out bulb - but I guess that goes without sayin'.

Anyway, for about $55 I can upgrade to LED direct bolt-in replacements.

LINKY

So, anyone have any recent experience with this type of upgrade? The reviews are generally positive, and most rave about how much brighter the LED lamps sets are. It also appears to come with the anti-flicker harness already installed. Since the YJ's are still hardwired in the old fashioned way (vice powered up through the TIPM) I probably won't need that. But, I do know that I may have one of the rectifier diodes shot in my alternator (reading about 27 VAC battery positive to frame). Any stray AC should be blocked by the harness.

I'm open to suggestions. I know that probably spending more might get better lights, but I don't want to go much more than what I've found above.

Thanks!
Don’t forget it’s not just LED, but the housing can also make a huge difference.

Here’s an article regarding the subject
https://thegarage.jalopnik.com/shoul...eds-1728026383

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Old 12-13-2017, 05:41 PM   #63
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When I first bought my YJ about 4 years ago, the PO had one original style incandescent sealed beam and one Halogen sealed beam. While driving at night with my high beams on, the headlights would sometimes go off. If I switched to low beams, they would come back on.

With information gleaned from this forum, I made my own headlight relay harness and installed it. The homemade harness provided about 1 more volt to the headlight plug than the original factory harness did. That cured the problem of the headlights going off while my high beams were on. The 1 more volt was without the engine running.
The issue (I believe) is a circuit breaker in the headlight switch that is designed to only carry enough voltage for old style sealed beams. Now, with the headlight relay, the only current going through the switch is just enough to trip the relays. Now my headlights are receiving full voltage directly from the alternator with the engine running.
I recommend buying a headlight relay harness rather than attempting to build one. It's cheaper and a lot less brain damage.

Once I had the homemade relay harness installed and tested, I installed a set of H4 Hella housings & bulbs. I guess they must be aimed properly because I don't get flashed by oncoming drivers at night and the additional illumination is quite welcome.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 12-13-2017, 05:45 PM   #64
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X2!! As Lucky states, get the harness first, then the lights. My lights appeared brighter with that alone?! I also did the Hella H4 with standard 55/60 watt bulbs and they are great!


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Old 12-13-2017, 07:34 PM   #65
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OK, I fixed the link in my original post, above.

I am getting about 11.8VDC at the light sockets with the engine off. I cleaned my grounds and always use dielectric grease on the headlight prongs. It's not that the lights are dim and yellowish, (well, they are compared to the LED cubes and 7" light bar on it), but I was wondering if the plug-and-play solution for $55 I linked to on Amazon would be a worthwhile upgrade. As I mentioned, it really isn't a whole bunch more than replacing both of the Halogen lights as I did recently.

Has anybody tried these? They are a complete sealed-beam replacement unit with the same form factor and fitment of the H6054 bulbs currently installed.
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Old 12-13-2017, 08:14 PM   #66
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I bought a hella harness,
cut, soldered and used heat shrink to make a clean custom harness and also installed hella headlights and could not be happier.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
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Old 12-13-2017, 09:01 PM   #67
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I checked out DryCreeks link.

If it's too good to be true, it usually is. That's not to say that he won't receiver the lights from Amazon and that they won't work. I wonder just how well they'll work and for how long.
The price seems suspiciously inexpensive. I'm pretty happy with my Hella $100.00 H4s, but if someone buys the LEDs and reports back sometime in late spring and states how happy they are with the $55.00 LED lights, I'm more than happy to reconsider.

The one issue I've heard about LED headlights is that they run so cool that snow and sleet builds up and hampers their ability to illuminate the road. Probably not too big a deal with a trail rig, but might be an issue for a daily driver in a place where it snows.
DryCreek is in Texas. I don't know how much if any snow they get there. Amarillo might get some now & then, but I'll bet not Brownsville.
If you go with the LEDs, let us know how they work out.

Good Luck, L.M.
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.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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Old 12-13-2017, 10:18 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckymac View Post

The one issue I've heard about LED headlights is that they run so cool that snow and sleet builds up and hampers their ability to illuminate the road. Probably not too big a deal with a trail rig, but might be an issue for a daily driver in a place where it snows.
DryCreek is in Texas. I don't know how much if any snow they get there. Amarillo might get some now & then, but I'll bet not Brownsville.
If you go with the LEDs, let us know how they work out.

Good Luck, L.M.
This can indeed by an issue, I have seen it a couple times on my Trucklites... though that is the only negative I can think of.

I can't vouch for the led bulbs that are being considered, what I can tell you though is the particular LED headlights I chose light the road better than what new cars are coming with... all with out blinding oncoming traffic.
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Old 12-17-2017, 06:51 AM   #69
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Would you please explain “terminate your power wire”?


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The Harness basically replaces the power run through the smaller gauge stock wiring from the fuse block to the headlights, it uses your headlight and dimmer switch to turn the lights on and off, but runs power straight from the battery to the lamps, hence the better headlight performance with stock lights, "Terminate your power wire" straight to the POS. battery terminal. Also make sure to clean and securely ground each lamp connector to the chassis.

Get the harness from a vendor with Ceramic connectors, they handle the heat from the lamps better. There are some plastic ones out there for about the same price, so you might as well get the ceramic.
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