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Old 12-31-2017, 09:59 AM
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Body lift

I am kicking around the idea of a 1" body lift, mainly for cleaning. Right now I am in just the thinking about it stage as I don't think my neck can handle getting strangled if I mention to the wife that I am starting another project on the jeep, have two going right now. My question is what all is involved? I don't want to do it if it requires making a lot of changes to things like 4 wheel drive shifting linkage, or having to change the pitman rod or and steering components but it would also be a work vs reward thing also. My jeep is a 258 with automatic, I assume there would be adjustment in the shifter linkage.

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Old 12-31-2017, 10:08 AM   #2
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I had the same thoughts. I haven't acted yet. Here's a thread with some good thoughts on the subject.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/showthread.php?t=2128113

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Old 12-31-2017, 10:42 AM   #3
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1 inch is easy, assuming the body bolts aren’t rusted. The only other adjustment is lowering the fan shroud to compensate for the body being 1 inch higher. Some people have said they didn’t have to do the shroud, but I did.


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Old 12-31-2017, 12:50 PM   #4
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Keep us (mainly me) posted
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Old 12-31-2017, 08:22 PM   #5
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Go for it BUT instead of lowering the fan, raise the engine
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Old 12-31-2017, 08:30 PM   #6
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Can you explain why?
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Old 12-31-2017, 10:56 PM   #7
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Bonus.... points rear of t case down allowing axle to be shimmed up relieving driveshaft angles....

Also 1 more inch under oil pan


OR raise the trans and skid plate for a tummy tuck.....
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Currently in the stable: .....97 tj 2.5 5 speed stock... 97 tj 4.0 5 speed stock....04 tj 4.0 auto 4" and 33's... 98 tj roller for future build... 94 yj sahara 4.5" RE and 33's... 92 yj sbc 3/4 ton axles and 38's... Cj5,7,yj,xj,ex mud dragster project

TJ dash speakers that actually rock! Kicker sub and amp in center console
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Old 01-01-2018, 10:23 AM   #8
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When you raise the body, the radiator is attached to the grill panel so the radiator raises up too. Then the fan blade can hit the bottom of the radiator shroud.
Most body lift kits come with 4 brackets to drop the radiator by whatever amount the lift pucks provide. A 1" motor mount lift raises the fan blade enough so that you don't need to lower the radiator with a 1" body lift.

I did a 2" body lift to clear 31" tires and wish I had only done a 1" lift.
I had issues with the gas filler hoses and the shifter hitting the rear of the tunnel opening. Neither issue was particularly daunting to overcome, but I don't think a 1" lift would be as much trouble. The 1" probably would clear the 31s with maybe trimming the fender openings (or maybe not, I'll find out when I change the 2" kit out with a 1" kit).

I hadn't heard of shimming the rear axle for an even better driveline angle when using a 1" motor mount lift for a 1" body lift. Is that necessary?
Some Jeepers use a 1" MM lift instead of a transfer case drop when doing a 2 1/2" spring lift and sometime that works to prevent driveline vibrations even without shimming the axle. Any driveline vibration needs to be cured before using the Jeep or sooner or later the U-joints will self destruct (usually sooner).
It seems that each of these old heaps has its own personality and what works for one, doesn't necessarily work for another.

What I've found is the biggest issue with any body lift is rusty body mount bolts. It's not uncommon to break one or more when attempting to loosen them.
One way to prevent broken bolts is to drill a small hole in the body mount for access to the cage nut (sometimes called a captive nut or a nut plate). Then spray penetrating oil in the hole to soak the nut and bolt where they're hidden inside the mount. Do this every day for a week or two before beginning the job.
If you get the bolt broken loose without actually breaking the bolt, loosen it a few degrees and then tighten it back up. Then spray more oil in the hole and then loosen the bolt some more. Repeat. Each time you tighten the bolt and loosen it, it should turn easier. Just keep loosening it, tightening it and then shoot more oil in the hole. Eventually you'll get the bolt out. Take your time, because any time spent doing this is going to be less time than cutting the mount open to replace the cage nut and closing the cut. If you break any bolts, post again. There are a couple ways to replace or repair the cage nut. All include cutting the body mount open.
Because of undercoat, rubber cushions and the fact that the nut is boxed in within the body mount, this is one situation where heat won't help.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 01-01-2018, 10:32 AM   #9
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Not likely mandatory to shim the rear axle but is an option.... OR if you run a slightly longer shackle the pinion is already gonna be pointing up a little so pointing the t case down w a mml makes sense
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Currently in the stable: .....97 tj 2.5 5 speed stock... 97 tj 4.0 5 speed stock....04 tj 4.0 auto 4" and 33's... 98 tj roller for future build... 94 yj sahara 4.5" RE and 33's... 92 yj sbc 3/4 ton axles and 38's... Cj5,7,yj,xj,ex mud dragster project

TJ dash speakers that actually rock! Kicker sub and amp in center console
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Old 01-01-2018, 10:48 PM   #10
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Would you put risers under existing motor mounts, or are there taller mounts fit complete replacement?


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Old 01-01-2018, 10:50 PM   #11
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Nevermind. Just answered my own question.


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Old 01-02-2018, 12:18 AM   #12
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Lol... the answer is yes
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Currently in the stable: .....97 tj 2.5 5 speed stock... 97 tj 4.0 5 speed stock....04 tj 4.0 auto 4" and 33's... 98 tj roller for future build... 94 yj sahara 4.5" RE and 33's... 92 yj sbc 3/4 ton axles and 38's... Cj5,7,yj,xj,ex mud dragster project

TJ dash speakers that actually rock! Kicker sub and amp in center console
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Old 01-02-2018, 07:54 AM   #13
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When I originally did my frame swap, I also installed the 1" Daystar Mount/Lift while I was at it. I figured the original bushings were shot, so I might as well get some added lift and be better able to clean while I was at it.

I'm running a 4.0L/AX15 combo and I also had to raise the radiator shroud by 1". It wasn't difficult, I simply removed the shroud, marked holes ~1" higher on the shroud, redrilled and reinstalled. I did however run into an issue with the bottom of the shroud hitting the radiator hose. A simple snip here and there with some tin snips and a utility blade, then rounding out with a simple sanding wheel made quick work of the task. You can see the small radius needed at the lower left portion of the shroud in this picture:
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I also had to extend some vacuum hoses, namely the large hose that runs into the brake booster. I simply cut it around midway, then inserted an appropriately sized barbed union (brass) and called it a day.

Sever months later, I eventually did a MML and had to reverse what I did anyways, but don't let the "work" related to a body lift discourage you from doing it. As people said, the hardest part will be dealing with rusty body bolts. Sometimes it may be best to prepare yourself to deal with rusted bolt and plan to repair/replace most of them. A Dremel cut-off wheel will allow you to access most of the captive nuts. A lot of people are able to tack-weld the nut in place but not always.
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Old 01-02-2018, 05:21 PM   #14
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following this thread. Several months ago, I removed the 2" body lift kit and wore out body mounts and rusted bolts. Replaced with OEM body mounts and grade 8 mounting bolts. Found the 2 rear interior body mounts were not really doing anything, but made their removal much easier. After installing the 11 new body mounts, this YJ drove much better without all the cricking and groaning as before with the P.O installed 2" body lift. So now I have also replaced the old shocks and stabilizer with EMU shocks. This YJ is fun to drive now, but of course now wanting to replace the old original leaf springs with a General Spring heavy duty kit. After reading many threads on longer shackles, I'm hesitant on that and thinking to just replace with standard greaseable shackles. I saved the old 2" body lift pucks and thinking I may try to thin down these 2" pucks to about 1" on a table saw and reinstall and try to avoid all that Geometry involved with drive line. Goal is to replace the leaf springs and shackles/bushings this coming spring and possible 1" body lift. Seems like the Jeep with 2" body lift functioned OK from the P.O. but did notice the bottom of fan shroud was a bit chewed up. So for Batjac, when you get the body mounts and possible 1" body lift kit installed, please post before and after pic's.

Here's a pic of little blackie as of now and I can barely step into driver seat position with my 66 yr. old legs and don't want no big lift.
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